-frO 


REESE    LIBRARY 

OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA. 

Received .. 
Accessions  No. ^ 


FLOWERS 


PARLOR   AND  GARDEN. 


BY 

EDWARD  ^PRAGUE  RAND,  JR. 


ILLUSTRATIONS  BY  JOHN   ANDREW  AND  A.  C.  WARREN. 


BOSTON: 
HOUGHTON,  MIFFLIN  AND  COMPANY. 

press, 
1882. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1863,  by 

EDWARD  S.  RAND,  JR., 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1876,  by 

EDWARD  SPRAGUE  RAND,  JR., 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington 


TO 


i.  IE.  m. 


IN    MEMORY    OF    PLEASANT    HOURS 


.VIOLET   BANK. 


PREFACE 

TO  THE   TWENTY-FIFTH  EDITION. 

•  TlEW  would  have  predicted,  when  in  1863  the  first  edi- 
tion of  "  Flowers  for  the  Parlor  and  Garden  "  was  is- 
sued, the  favorable  manner  in  which  it  would  be  received  by 
the  public. 

There  was  at  the  time  a  want-  of  a  manual  of  culture, 
which  the  volume  supplied.  From  the  position  it  then 
took  as  the  standard  work  on  popular  floriculture,  it  has 
never  been  displaced,  and  now,  thirteen  years  from  the  time 
of  its  first  publication,  it  remains  the  recognized  authority 
on  the  subject. 

The  present  time>  however,  seems  fitting  to  issue  the 
work  in  an  enlarged  form,  with  additions  which  bring  its 
pages  up  to  the  horticultural  standard  of  the  present  day. 

This  has  been  done  by  the  addition  of  three  new  chap- 
ters, in  which  will  be  found  concise  notices  of  many  new 
and  rare  plants,  as  well  as  notes  on  improved  methods  of 
cultivation. 

In  a  manual  of  culture,  embracing  many  classes  of 
plants,  it  is  impossible,  without  exceeding  the  reasonable 
limits  of  the  work,  to  give  long  lists  or  extended  descrip 


IV  PREFACE   TO   THE   TWENTY-FIFTH   EDITION. 

tions,  and  in  the  present  volume  these  have  not  been  at- 
tempted. 

The  object  has  been  to  give  brief  notices  of  the  best 
species,  trustworthy  directions  for  culture,  and  practical 
suggestions  as  to  the  adaptation  of  various  plants  to  special 
modes  of  culture. 

Those  who  wish  more  extended  directions,  or  longer 
lists  of  Species  and  varieties,  are  referred  to  the  companion 
volumes,  "  Garden  Flowers,"  "  Bulbs,"  "  Popular  Flowers," 
"  The  Window  Gardener,"  and  "  Rhododendrons  and 
American  Plants,"  in  which  the  several  subjects  will  be 
found  treated  at  length  with  all  the  suggestions  and  practi- 
cal knowledge  which  an  experience  of  many  years  has 
afforded. 

The  six  volumes  now  before  the  public  as  just  issued  in 
revised  editions,  form  an  indispensable  guide  to  the  amateur 
cultivator.  While  they  touch  upon  matters  in  all  branches 
of  floriculture,  there  are  subjects  which  demand  still  more 
elaborate  treatment. 

To  this  end  we  have  in  preparation  six  other  volumes,  on 
Greenhouse  Plants,  Stove  Plants,  Hardy  Shrubs,  Or- 
chids, Ferns,  and  Horticultural  Nomenclature,  which,  with 
the  volumes  already  issued,  will  form  a  complete  library  of 
horticulture,  and  for  these  we  bespeak  the  favor  of  all 
lovers  of  flowers. 
GLKN  RIDGE,  January,  1876. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  PAOB 

INTRODUCTION 7 

I.     THE  GREEN-HOUSE  AND  CONSERVATORY 15 

II.     WINDOW  GARDENING 48 

III.  PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING 62 

IV.  PLANTS  TOR  WINDOW  GARDENING — Continued.  .     .     88 
V.     PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING — Continued.  .     .  117 

VI.     PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING — Continued.  .     .  140 

VII.     CAPE  BULBS 160 

VIII.     BUTCH  BULBS 180 

IX.     THE  CULTURE  OF  THE  TUBE  ROSE 198 

X.     THE  GLADIOLUS  AND  ITS  CULTURE 203 

XI.     How  TO  FORCE  FLOWERS  TO  BLOOM  IN  WINTER.    .  213 
XII.     BALCONY  GARDENING 224 

XIII.  THE  WARDIAN  CASE,  AND  WINTER  GARDEN.      .     .  232 

XIV.  STOCKING  AND  MANAGING  WARDIAN  CASES.   .     .     .  244 
XV.     HANGING     BASKETS    AND    SUITABLE     PLANTS,    AND 

TREATMENT  OF  IVY.  , 253 

1*  (5) 


6  CONTENTS. 

XVI.    THE  WALTONIAN  CASE. 262 

XVII.     THE  AQUARIUM  AND  WATER  PLANTS 273 

XVIII.     How  TO  GROW  SPECIMEN  PLANTS 286 

XIX.     OUT-DOOR  GARDENING.  —  HOT-BEDS 307 

XX.     THE  GARDEN 318 

XXI.     SMALL  TREES  AND  SHRUBS 326 

XXII.     HARDY  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS .344 

XXIII.  HARDY  ANNUALS 352 

XXIV.  BEDDING  PLANTS 364 

XXV.  HARDY  AND  HALF-HARDY  GARDEN  BULBS.      .     .     .370 

XXVI.     SPRING  FLOWERS,  AND  WHERE  TO  FIND  THEM.  .     .381 

APPENDIX. 

XXVII.  NEW  AZALEAS.  —  NOTES  ON  CYCLAMEN.  —  NEW  PELARGO- 
NIUMS. —  VERBENAS.  —  HELIOTROPE.  —'NEW  ROSES.  — 
PINKS.  —  FUCHSIAS.  —  ABUTILON.  —  CALLAS.  —  CUPHEA. 

—  CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

XXVIII.    NEW  HYACINTHS.  —  GLADIOLUS.  —  BEDDING  CALCEOLARIAS. 

—  FORCING  LILY  OF  THE  VALLEY.  —  LANTANAS. — NEW 
CANNAS.  —  ORCHIDS   FOR   THE   PARLOR.  —  FERNS   FOR 
THE  PARLOR. 

XXIX.  NEW  HARDY  SHRUBS.  —  AMYGDALOPSIS. —  HYDRANGEA.  — 
EXOCHORDA.  —  NEW  LILACS.  —  RHODOTYPUS.—  RAPHEO- 
LEPIS  —  MAGNOLIA.  —  SPIREA.  —  NEW  HARDY  ROSES.  — 
AMPELOPSIS.  —  LONICERA.  —  CLEMATIS. 


'Neath  cloistered  boughs  each  floral  bell  that  swingeth, 

And  tolls  its  perfume  on  the  passing  air, 
Makes  Sabbath  in  the  fields,  and  ever  ringeth 
A  call  to  prayer. 


HITS     sung    Horace    Smith,    in 
years    gone    by,    in    one    of    the 


sweetest  floral  poems  which  the 
English  language  has  produced. 
—  a  verse  which  speaks  to  the  heart,  where  its  measured 
cadences  flow  in  sympathy  with  the  uprising  love  of 
Nature  which  springs  unbidden,  and  sends  forth  its  music 
to  gladden  many  a  rugged  path  of  life. 

The  love  of  flowers   is   universal :  it  is   an  old  melody, 

(7) 


8  INTRODUCTION. 

which,  first  attuned,  in  earliest  time,  in  the  golden  age  of 
legendary  lore,  has  come  down  to  us,  growing  more  mellow 
and  sweeter  as  it  chimed  through  the  centuries,  and  now, 
as  then,  echoed,  with  a  music  akin  to  that  of  heaven,  in 
the  human  heart. 

And  this  floral  music  has  not  been  without  its  deep  and 
lasting  influence :  little  may  we  know  of  the  countless 
paths  of  life  which  it  has  made  brighter,  and  which  have, 
long  ages  since,  ended  beneath  a  grassy,  flower-sprinkled 
grave ;  but  we  see  it  breathing  over  us  from  the  acanthus 
leaves  of  the  Corinthian  capital,  sounding  from  the  silence 
of  mediaeval  marble,  and  echoing,  again  and  again,  in 
the  rich  strains  of  deathless  poesy.  It  is  one  of  the 
links  binding  the  present  to  the  past,  joining  us  in  sym- 
pathy with  those  who  lived  long  ago ;  and  while  we 
gather  the  rose,  the  lily,  or  the  violet,  we  but  renew  a 
pledge  with  the  olden  time,  and  our  heart  beats  in  sym- 
pathy with  the  universal  heart-beat  of  the  human  race 
for  centuries. 

What  volumes  might  be  written  on  the  history,  the 
legends,  the  poetry  of  flowers !  Yet,  dear  reader,  pleasant, 
and  profitable  withal,  as  such  reading  might  be,  ours  is  a 
homelier  purpose.  We  glean  not  the  legends  of  the  past, 


INTRODUCTION.  9 

but  offer  you  what  may  give  promise  for  the  future ;  and 
believing  this  love  of  flowers  to  be  a  good,  an  almost  holy 
feeling,  it  is  our  wish  to  minister  to  its  development. 

It  has  been  said  that  no  botanist  was  ever  an  infidel ; 
may  we  not  also  say  that  no  true  lover  of  flowers  can  be  a 
bad  man  ? 

There  is  a  secret  influence  arising  from  these  bright 
gems  of  nature,  which  imperceptibly  makes  one  holier  and 
purer. 

And  for  this  let  the  love  of  flowers  be  encouraged. 
Develop  it  in  the  mind  of  a  child.  Let  him  grow  up  sur- 
rounded by  flowers,  and  be  assured  that,  in  the  garden  of 
the  heart,  the  blossoms  will  unfold,  and  golden  fruit  ripen 
in  after  years. 

We  have  said  that  the  love  of  flowers  is  universal :  we 
see  them  alike  in  the  dwellings  of  the  rich  and  the  poor ; 
in  the  workman's  shop,  in  the  window  of  the  busy  factory, 
peeping  into  the  poor  man's  window,  and  trellised  round 
the  abode  of  the  rich. 

Yet  with  all  this  love  for  flowers,  there  is  very  little 
knowledge  of  culture. 

A  plant  is  a  living  being  ;  it  drinks  and  breathes ;  it  is 
sensitive  as  the  most  delicate  constitution  to  changes  of 


10 


INTRODUCTION. 


temperature,  and  extremes  of  cold  and  heat;  its  tissues 
are  as  delicate  as  any  in  nature ;  it  has  wants,  which  must 
be  attended  to  as  they  arise,  and  neglect  is  sure  to  result 
in  disease  or  death.  There  are  two  extremes  in  plant  cul- 
ture, as  usually  pursued :  the  plants  are  either  starved  to 
death  or  overfed ;  the  result  is  the  same,  whether  caused 
by  neglect  or  kindness. 

We  have  often  heard  wonder  expressed  at  the  beauty  of 
some  plant  grown  in  the  poor  man's  parlor  —  a  beauty 
which  those  of  his  wealthy  neighbor  do  not  attain.  The 
reason  is  simple :  in  the  one  case,  the  wants  are  well  pro- 
vided for ;  in  the  other,  they  are  neglected  or  over  supplied. 

And  here  we  touch  the  object  of  this  little  book,  which 
is  to  tell,  in  as  few  and  simple  words  as  possible,  what 
these  wants  are,  and  how  they  may  best  be  attended  to. 

A  plant,  or  a  stand  of  flowers,  is  a  constant  source  of 
pleasure  in  a  room  ;  it  is  a  spring  of  sunshine,  and  its 
silent  influence  makes  all  the  household  more  cheerful 
and  better. 

We  would  have  flowers  in  every  house,  for  their  sunny 
light,  for  their  cheerful  teaching,  for  their  insensibly  enno- 
bling influence. 

' '  But  they  are  so  much  trouble ! "  exclaims  one.     Granted, 


INTRODUCTION.  11 

dear  madam.  But  has  your  experience  thus  far  in  life 
failed  to  teach  you  that  all  the  good  things  of  God  come 
but  from  our  own  exertions  ?  Are  they  not  the  dearer  to 
us  because  we  have  labored  to  bring  them  home  ? 

Yet  again  I  touch  my  theme  :  I  would  teach  you  how 
to  have  the  finest  flowers  with  the  least  trouble. 

"  But  flowers  in  a  room  are  so  unhealthy !"  exclaims  the 
nervously  sensitive. 

By  no  means.  "  Do  they  not  exhale  poisonous  gases  ?  " 
But  slightly  ;  and  never  can  the  few  plants  you  would  have 
produce  enough  to  be  hurtful. 

The  smallest  lamp  burning  in  your  bedroom  will  poison 
the  air,  by  abstracting  its  oxygen,  more  than  a  whole  bay 
window  full  of  plants. 

There  are,  however,  two  other  considerations  which 
should  not  be  overlooked  —  the  effect  of  powerful  perfumes 
from  flowers,  which,  being,  in  some  cases,  such  as  tube- 
roses, many  orchids,  &c.,  given  off  very  powerfully  by 
night,  may  cause  headache  by  impregnating  the  air ;  and 
the  dampness,  which  is  exhaled  from  plants  in  pots. 

What,  however,  can  be  easier  than  the  remedy,  in  the 
former  case  ?  Simply  remove  the  blooming  plants  from  the 
room  at  night. 


12  INTRODUCTION. 

And  in  the  latter,  the  dampness  will  hardly  be  percep- 
tible from  any  number  of  pots  one  would  be  likely  to  have 
in  a  single  room. 

And  yet  again  we  propose  to  tell  how  even  this  may  be 
avoided,  by  the  growth  of  plants  in  the  Wardian  case — • 
an  experiment  at  once  beautiful  and  interesting. 

We  have  said  that  plants  breathed  and  drank ;  and  so, 
as  living  beings,  they  have  many  different  modifications  of 
the  same  organization.  What  is  nourishment  and  life  to 
some  is  poison  and  death  to  others.  Who  has  not  been 
seized,  when  entering  some  well-stocked  green-house,  with 
the  desire  to  carry  home  some  of  the  floral  treasures  ?  and 
who  has  not  been  perplexed  what  to  choose? 

And  with  reason  :  some  plants  will  flourish  with  window 
culture ;  others  droop  and  die.  Our  subject,  again :  it  is 
to  tell  you  what  to  choose  that  we  have  taken  our  pen. 

Your  neighbor,  the  florist,  grows  tuberoses  to  perfection ; 
yours  are  profuse  in  leaves,  but  never  bloom :  we  will  tell 
you  the  secret  of  culture. 

He  has  violets  all  winter,  and  you  sigh  for  a  green- 
house :  it  is  not  necessary  ;  he  does  not  grow  his  violets  in 
the  green-house  ;  you  may  have  them,  as  well  as  he. 

And  once  again :  admire  as  we  will  and  must  the  exotic 


INTRODUCTION.  13 

beauties  of  our  gardens  and  green-houses,  there  are  floral 
treasures  few  have  dreamed  of.  The  road  sides,  the  fields, 
the  meadows,  the  river  side,  the  woods,  are  teeming  with 
them  —  delicate  flowers,  graceful  grasses,  filmy  ferns,  ra- 
diant lichens,  and  lovely  mosses. 

Have  you  never  gathered  these  ?  Then  let  us  take  you 
by  the  hand  on  some  sunny  day  in  early  June,  and  lead  you 
with  us.  Sit  with  us  on  the  lap  of  Nature,  and  cull  her 
precious  but  ever-renewed  store,  and  you  will  find  a  new 
and  unimagined  pleasure,  a  joy  as  free  as  God's  own  sun 
and  air,  the  child  of  sunlight  and  vernal  breezes. 

Did  you  ever  think  of  the  difference  in  meaning  between 
the  two  verbs,  to  live  and  to  exist  f  Did  you  ever  think 
how  few  people  live,  compared  with  those  who  exist  ?  Did 
you  ever  think  there  may  be  a  blindness  far  worse  than 
loss  of  vision  —  a  blindness  of  the  spirit's  eye  to  the  beauty 
which  the  hand  of  a  bountiful  Creator  has  so  lavishly 
spread  around  us  ?  And  again  for  this  I  write  ;  to  tell  you 
of  that  beauty,  to  open  the  eye  to  it ;  not  to  tell  you  where 
to  find  it,  for  it  is  every  where  on  this  broad  earth ;  but,  by 
pointing  out  its  most  striking  features,  to  gradually  lead 
you  to  see  it  all  around. 

And  from  this  contemplation  of  Nature's  beauty  there 


14 


INTRODUCTION. 


is  but  the  uplifting   of   the    eye    to    the    footstool    of  the 
Creator. 

As  we  began,  so  let  us  end,  in  the  soulful  poem,  — 

"  Were  I  in  churchless  solitudes  remaining, 

Far  from  all  voice  of  teachers  and  divines, 
My  soul  would  find,  in  flowers  of  God's  ordaining, 
Priests,  sermons,  shrines." 

GLEN  KIDGE,  April,  1863. 


CHAPTER    I. 


THE   GREEN-HOUSE    AND    CONSERVATORY. 


The  Stove. —  The  Hot-house.  —  The    Green-house.  —  The    Conservatory. 

—  The  Pit.  —  "  Span-roofed  "  and  "  Lean-to  "  Houses.  —  Exposure.  — 
Construction  and  Materials.  —  Pitch  of  Roof  and  Cost.  —  Interior  Ar- 
rangements. —  Heating.  —  "  Lean-to  "  House.  —  Interior  Arrangement.  — 
A  Pit.  —  Proper  Heating  Apparatus.  —  The  Brick  Stove.  —  The  Water 
Boiler.  —  Shutters.  —  A  Cheap  Green-house.  —  Its  Construction  and  Cost. 

—  Ventilation.  —  The    Parlor  Conservatory.  —  Heating.  —  Interior  Ar- 

(15) 


16 


THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY. 


rangements.  — Stocking  the  Green-house.  — Mistakes  of  Overstocking. 
Neglected  Plants.  —  Symmetrical  Growth.  —  Camellias.  —  Daphnes. 
Azaleas.—  Acacias.—  Fuchsias.  —  Climbers.  —  Miscellaneous  Plants. 
One  Hundred  Choice  Plants. 


1 OW  shall  I  build  a  Green-house  ? 
is  the  question  that  arises  in 
the  mind  of  the  amateur, 
when  the  happy  time  arrives 
which  permits  him  to  indulge 
the  dream  of  many  years.  Straightway 
he  applies  to  an  architect,  or  consults 
some  book  on  horticultural  buildings  : 
the  result  is  a  glass  structure,  which 
fulfils  all  architectural  requirements, 
is  in  good  taste  and  of  elegant  appearance,  and  which 
lacks  but  one  thing  —  adaptation  to  its  purpose;  that  is, 
the  healthy  growing  of  plants. 

Now,  why  is  this  failure?  Simply  because  the  rules 
governing  the  growth  of  plants  under  glass  were  not 
followed;  we  must  adapt  our  houses  to  the  plants,  and 
not  expect  the  plants  to  conform  to  the  houses.  As  a 
general  rule,  in  building  a  green-house,  avoid  "  cheap 
buildings,"  for,  be  assured,  they  will  become  dear  enough 


THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY.  17 

in  the  end.  Use  only  the  best  materials,  and  these  of 
the  most  durable  kind.  Remember  that  the  alternations 
of  temperature,  and  the  constant  moisture,  speedily  affect 
the  best  timber,  and  that  poor  material  is  sure  to  be  soon 
rendered  useless  by  dampness  and  decay. 

But,  as  many  are  not  able  to  build  expensive  structures, 
we  propose  to  give  a  number  of  plans  for  buildings,  of 
various  cost. 

Let  us  first,  however,  thoroughly  understand  the  sub- 
ject, and  find  out  what  we  need. 

There  are  many  glass  structures,  all  indiscriminately 
called  "  green-houses."  In  common  parlance,  any  glass 
house  for  the  growth  of  plants  is  a  green-house ;  but,  hor- 
ticulturally,  there  are  different  names  for  structures  of 
different  forms,  and  adapted  for  different  purposes.  What, 
then,  is  the  difference  between  a  hot-house  and  a  stove  ? 
a  green-house  and  a  hot-house  ?  a  conservatory  and  a 
green-house  ? 

A  Stove  is  a  plant  house,  constructed  with  reference  to 
obtaining  a  great  degree  of  heat,  where  the  temperature 
should  never  fall  below  seventy  degrees  Fahrenheit,  and 
may  rise  even  to  one  hundred  and  twenty  degrees.  The 
atmosphere  is  kept  moist  by  constant  evaporation  of  water, 
2* 


18  THE  GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY. 

and  external  air,  when  admitted,  is  tempered  by  passing 
over  heated  surfaces,  lest  the  tender  plant  receive  a  chill. 
In  this  building  are  grown  plants  natives  of  the  equator, 
and  the  East  Indian  orchids.  It  is  often  arranged  so  as  to 
afford  bottom  heat,  without  which  many  of  these  plants  do 
not  succeed. 

The  term  Hot-house,  properly  speaking,  is  synonymous 
with  stove  :  it  "is,  however,  used  to  designate  any  building 
in  which  artificial  heat  is  used ;  a  hot-house,  or  stove,  being 
a  house  in  which  such  a  high  temperature  is  maintained. 

A  Green-house  is  a  glass  structure,  where  the  tempera- 
ture ranges  from  forty  to  seventy  degrees,  -and  is  calculated 
for  the  growth  of  those  plants  which  will  not  bear  the  cold 
of  our  winters  without  injury.  The  term  is,  however, 
improperly  and  indiscriminately  applied  to  any  glass  struc- 
ture, either  with  or  without  fire  heat. 

The  term  "  conservatory"  is  used  properly  to  designate  a 
show  house,  where  the  temperature  ranges  from  forty  to 
sixty  degrees,  and  into  which  plants  are  removed,  when 
coming  into  bloom,  from  the  other  houses.  It  is  improperly 
applied,  however,  to  any  glass  structure  in  which  plants 
and  flowers  are  grown. 

The   glass    structures    connected   with   parlors    are    also 


THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND    CONSERVATORY.  19 

called  conservatories,  and  this  signification  of  the  word  is 
generally  accepted. 

A  Pit  is  a  structure  below  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
generally  excavated  six  to  eight  feet,  and  covered  with  a 
glass  roof.  From  such  a  structure  the  frost  is  excluded 
with  little  expense,  and  a  great  heat  may  be  maintained. 
It  is  usually  a  cheap  building,  used  for  propagation,  grow- 
ing roses,  and  forcing  vegetables. 

The  glass  structure  which  will  be  in  general  request  is 
the  green-house,  which  is  adapted  for  the  growth  of  most  of 
our  flowering  plants.  The  same  structure  may  be  con- 
verted into  a  stove  by  merely  increasing  the  power  of  the 
heating  apparatus. 

A  green  house  may  be 
"span-roofed"   (Fig.   1), 


or    "  lean-to "    (Fig.    2),  FlG.  2.  FIG.  i. 

that  is,   with  both   sides 

of  the  roof  of  glass,  or  with  a  back  wall  of  brick,  stone, 
or  wood,   the  roof  and  front  being  glass. 

The  former  is  better  for  the  symmetrical  and  healthy 
growth  of  the  plants,  but  requires  powerful  furnaces  to 
maintain  sufficient  heat ;  the  latter  is  more  economical, 
both  in  structure  and  heating,  and  is  sufficient  to  grow 
most  of  our  ordinary  "  green-house  plants." 


20  THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY. 

A  span-roofed  house  should  run  north  and  south,  so  as  to 
receive  the  greatest  possible  amount  of  sun  in  the  winter ; 
or,  if  this  is  impossible,  it  will  be  necessary  to  provide 
close  shutters  for  all  the  northern  exposure. 

A  "lean-to"  house  should  run  east  and  west,  thus  facing 
the  south. 

Now,  having  selected  our  site,  which  should  be  sheltered 
from  the  north  as  much  as  possible,  let  us  mark  out  a 
space,  say  forty  feet  long  and  twelve  feet  wide  ;  around  the 
outside  of  this  excavate  a  trench,  from  two  to  four  feet  in 
depth,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  soil  (a  damp,  clayey 
soil  requiring  more  depth  than  one  of  light,  sandy  consist- 
ency, the  object  being  to  get  below  the  reach  of  the  frost), 
and  about  one  foot  or  more  in  width.  This  done,  fill  the 
trench  to  within  a  foot  of  the  top  with  stones ;  on  these 
build  a  eight-inch  wall  of  brick  or  stone,  laid  in  hydraulic 
cement,  to  the  height  of  one  foot  above  the  surface  level ; 
on  this  lay  a  heavy  wooden  sill,  which  should  be  of  sea- 
soned pine,  which  bears  exposure  better  than  other  woods. 

Now  for  the  carpenter  work.  You  will  have  three  feet 
of  wood  work,  upright,  in  front,  all  round,  both  sides ;  you 
will  need  two  lights,  from  eaves  to  cap,  on  each  side,  each 
six  feet  long  and  three  to  four  feet  wide.  That  would  give 


THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND    CONSERVATORY.  21 

you  ten  lights,  of  four  feet  in  width,  on  each  side,  for  your 
house  of  forty  feet.  But  as  three  feet  gives  us  a  more 
manageable  light,  it  will  be  better  to  have  one  or  two  more, 
and  make  them  of  that  width.  The  upper  lights,  on  both 
sides,  should  slide  or  swing  so  as  to  afford  easy  ventilation ; 
the  lower  should  be  stationary.  The  upright  windows  of 
the  side  should  swing  out,  being  hinged  at  the  top ;  the 
ends  of  the  house  should  be  permanently  glazed,  with  a 
door  in  one,  or,  if  desirable,  in  each  end. 

The  pitch  of  the  roof  should  be  forty-five  degrees.  Now, 
a  house  of  this  description  could  be  built  for  about  ten 
dollars  per  running  foot.  The  glazing,  of  good  serviceable 
glass,  is  included  in  this  estimate,  as  well  as  hinges,  ropes, 
and  pulleys.  The  interior  arrangement  must  vary  according 
to  the  taste  and  means  of  the  owner. 

If  it  is  desired  to  make  it  a  winter  garden,  a  broad  path 
should  be  laid,  in  gravel  or  cement,  all  round,  at  a  distance 
of  about  two  feet  from  the  side.  The  centre  should  be  a 
bed  of  rich,  prepared  soil,  in  which  large  plants,  such  as 
acacias,  and  abutilons,  should  be  planted.  All  around 
the  side,  and  even  with  the  bottom  of  the  glass,  a  shelf 
should  be  built,  about  two  feet  wide,  to  be  filled  with 
flowering  plants,  in  pots.  Roses  and  other  climbers 
should  be  trained  up  the  rafters. 


22 


THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND    CONSERVATORY. 


The  heating  apparatus  should  run  under  the  shelf  along 
the  sides,  and  may  be  hot  water,  or,  what  is  the  simplest, 
though  perhaps  the  most  expensive,  from  the  waste  of  heat, 
the  old  brick  flue. 

A  house  of  this  kind  would  present  somewhat  this 
appearance. 


Now,  if  a  span-roofed  house  is  too  expensive,  or  we  wish 
something  simpler,  let  us  see  how  easy  it  is  to  build  a 
"lean-to"  on  the  same  plan. 

We  have  only  to  take  one  half  of  the  span  roof.  Let 
us  build  our  back  wall  of  brick,  good  nine-inch  work,  with 
a  suitable  cap  ;  and  with  a  coat  of  paint  given  now  and 
then,  our  green-house  will  last,  without  repairing,  for  many 
years. 

A  "  lean-to  "  house,  built  after  this  plan,  would  present 
somewhat  the  appearance  of  Figure  A. 

The   cost  would  not  be    far  from   five  hundred  dollars. 


THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY. 


23 


This  might  be  much  reduced  by  making  the  back  wall  of 
wood,  instead  of  brick,  and  sheathing  it  inside ;  but  it 
would  not  be  so  warm,  and  in  the  end  would  be  more 
expensive,  as  it  would,  after  a  few  years,  require  constant 
repairs. 


FIG.  A. 

Most  of  the  houses  of  florists  who  raise  flowers  for 
the  market  are  not  properly  green-houses,  but  pits ;  that 
is,  they  are  excavated  from  two  to  four  feet  below 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  the  roof  laid  on  very  low, 
so  that  a  great  saving  of  heat  is  effected.  The  dampness 
is  congenial  to  the  plants,  which  often  thrive  wonderfully ; 
but  these  structures,  being  cheaply  built,  soon  fall  to 
pieces.  As  a  general  rule,  in  all  horticultural  structures, 
every  part  which  is  to  come  near,  or  in  contact  with,  the 
ground,  should  be  of  stone  or  brick ;  and,  carrying  this 
principle  still  farther,  the  less  wood  work  we  have,  the 
better. 


24  THE  GREEN-HOUSE  AND   CONSERVATORY, 

Could  it  be  afforded  at  a  reasonable  price,  it  would  be 
better  to  have  the  rafters  of  iron,  as  has  been  done  in  some 
cases. 

The  interior  of  the  house  may  be  arranged  in  two  ways, 
if  a  staging  is  required ;  the  first,  and,  to  our  mind,  the 
preferable  arrangement,  is,  to  build  side  shelves,  as  above 
described,  and  to  run  a  long,  flat  table  through  the  middle 
of  the  house,  on  which  to  place  the  plants,  in  pots.  In  a 
stove,  this  table  is  made  a  box,  about  a  foot  deep,  which 
is  filled  with  moss,  into  which  the  plants  are  plunged,  to 
the  rims  of  the  pots ;  the  hot  water  pipes  are  carried  under, 
or  through,  this  box,  the  moss  is  kept  constantly  damp, 
and  thus  a  moist  bottom  heat  is  obtained,  most  congenial 
to  the  growth  of  the  plants. 

The  second  mode  is  by  a  stage  of  ascending  shelves, 
conforming  to  the  roof  of  the  house,  a  flat  platform  on  top, 
for  larger  plants,  the  shelves  again  descending  on  the  other 
side.  By  this  mode,  a  great  number  of  plants  may  be 
accommodated  in  a  small  house.  The  former  mode  is  to  be 
adopted  where  beautiful  plants  are  desired ;  the  latter, 
where  quantity  is  the  object,  rather  than  quality. 

In  a  lean-to  house,  unless  it  is  very  wide,  the  latter  is 
the  only  method  to  be  adopted ;  and  if  care  is  used  not  to 


THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY. 


25 


crowd  the  plants,  and  the  shelves  are  made  wide  enough, 
and  the  plants  are  frequently  turned,  to  prevent  them  from 
growing  one-sided,  very  creditable  specimen  plants  may  be 
produced.  The  accompanying  sketch  may  serve  to  illus- 
trate this  mode  of  interior  arrangement. 

A  small  stove,  or  forcing 
house,  is  usually  an  adjunct 
to  a  conservatory  ;  in  this  the 
plants  are  brought  forward, 
and  forced  into  bloom,  and 
then  brought  into  the  conser- 
vatory, where,  in  the  cooler 
air,  they  will  remain  in  per- 
fection a  long  time.  It  is  also  very  useful  for  forcing  straw- 
berries, and  cucumbers,  or  early  vegetables.  All  parts 
should  be  of  masonry,  and  the  large  bed  raised  in  the 
middle  should  have  a  hollow  air  chamber  underneath, 
through  which  the  hot-air  pipes  should  pass,  and  should  be 
built  up  of  brick.  The  following  sketch  will  give  an  idea 
of  a  pit  of  this  kind. 

The   cost  would  vary  very  much  with  the  size,  and  the 
materials  used,  but  the  best  could  be  built  for  about  ten 
dollars  per  running  foot. 
3 


26 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY. 


The  heating  apparatus  may  vary  at  the  caprice  of  the 
owner ;  as  these  pits  waste  but  little  heat,  a  common  brick 
stove  will  answer  every  purpose,  and  consumes  but 
little  fuel. 


This  mode  of  heating  is  used  by  Mr.  Rivers  in  all  his 
pits  and  green-houses,  and  is  thus  described :  — 

The  stove  is  a  small  mass  of  brick  work,  about  two 
feet  square  and  three  feet  high ;  or  it  may  be  larger,  if 
great  heat  is  required,  the  front  looking  thus  :  — 

On  opening  the  cast  iron  door,  you  see  a 
small  chamber  about  twelve  inches  square, 
with  a  grate  at  the  bottom,  on  which  the  fire 
is  made ;  the  other  door,  ?>,  opens  to  an  ash 
pit,  of  the  same  size,  or  perhaps  deeper, 
below  the  fire. 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE  AND  CONSERVATORY.  27 

In  this  ash-pit  door  there  is  a  small  hole,  to  admit  air 
needful  for  combustion.  This  stove  is  on  the  principle  of 
the  air-tight  stove,  and  consumes  but  little  fuel,  a  small 
hod  full  keeping  the  fire  for  twenty-four  hours. 

The  fire  is  surrounded  by  two  thicknesses  of  brick,  the 
inner  one  fire  brick ;  thus  the  heat  given  out  is  gradual, 
and  the  plants  are  not  injured,  as  is  often  the  case  with 
our  iron  stoves.  There  is,  of  course,  a  small  flue,  running 
back  into  a  chimney,  to  carry  off  the  smoke.  The  common 
covering  of  this  stove  is  a  thick  cast  iron  plate,  c. 

If,  however,  a  higher  and  more  uniform  temperature  is 
required,  an  iron  boiler  may  be  added  to  the  stove.  This 
is  cast  in  one  piece ;  the  pipes  are  of  wrought  iron,  and 
screw  on.  It  should  be  set  directly  over  the  fire  chamber, 
so  that  its  bottom  will  be  on  a  line  with  the  top  of  the 
door,  a,  and  its  top  is  covered  by  the  iron  plate,  c.  As  the 
water  in  this  boiler  becomes  heated,  it  rises  and  flows 
through  the  pipe,  e,  which  is  run  to  one  end,  or  quite  round 
the  house,  and  returning,  enters  the  boiler  again  near  its 
bottom,  y,  as  shown  in  the  figure. 

As  the  boiler  is  tight,  the  water 
of  course  makes  the  circuit  of  the 
whole  pipe,  and  keeps  up  a  constant  circulation. 


28  THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY. 

In  fact,  the  whole  pipe,  which  rises  but  a  few  inches  in 
its  course,  may  be  considered  a  boiler,  the  only  opening  to 
which  is  at  the  highest  point  of  the  pipe,  e,  that  is,  if  the 
pipes  run  around  the  houso  at  the  end  farthest  from  the 
boiler,  where  there  is  an  opening  with  a  small  reservoir  for 
supplying  it  with  water.  This  is  the  simplest  form  of  hot- 
water  heating ;  it  may  be  varied  in  size  to  any  extent,  and 
will  heat  any  pit  sufficiently. 

In  heating  green-houses,  a  great  saving  of  fuel  is  effected 
by  the  use  of  wooden  shutters  fitted  to  all  exposed  portions 
of  the  range  of  glass.  They  may  be  made  of  rough 
boards,  and  should,  while  heavy  enough  to  keep  their 
place  by  their  own  weight,  be  of  manageable  size.  They 
should  be  put  on  as  soon  as  the  sun  leaves  the  house,  and 
also  on  windy  days  and  nights ;  some  days  in  winter  they 
should  not  be  removed  at  all.  The  most  difficult  nights  to 
keep  a  green-house  warm  are  those  when  the  mercury 
shows  from  twenty  to  thirty  degrees  of  frost,  with  a  violent 
wind  sweeping  over  the  house.  The  wind  carries  off  the 
heat  very  rapidly,  and  it  is  easier  to  maintain  a  high  tem- 
perature with  the  mercury  twenty  degrees  below  zero,  and 
no  wind,  than  in  a  windy  night,  when  the  thermometer 
only  shows  twenty  degrees  of  frost. 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY.  29 

But,  says  my  impatient  reader,  I  cannot  build  span* 
roofed  houses  or  pits  at  a  cost  of  three  to  four  hundred 
dollars;  yet  flowers  are  to  me  a  necessity  —  I  must  have 
them.  My  carpenter  has  frightened  me  with  estimates; 
tell  me  how  to  build  a  cheap  house. 

Attention,  then  :  Your  house  must  be  about  twenty-five 
feet  long  by  twelve  feet  wide  ;  smaller  if  you  choose,  but 
you  will  find  this  will  give  you  little  enough  room.  Pro- 
cure ten  stout  cedar  posts,  the  larger  the  better,  each  about 
eleven  feet  long.  Set  them  in  a  line,  two  and  one  half  feet 
apart,  on  the  northerly  line  of  the  space  marked  out  for 
your  house,  having  previously  charred  them  half  an  inch 
deep  for  at  least  three  feet  at  the  lower  end.  Set  them 
three  feet  deep,  and  ram  them  well ;  they  are  the  back  wall 
of  your  house.  Opposite  each  of  these,  and  twelve  feet 
from  it,  set  ten  cedar  posts,  six  feet  long,  equally  stout, 
charred,  and  set  three  feet  deep.  You  have  now  the  out- 
line of  the  house,  and  the  inclination  which  will  give  the 
proper  pitch  to  your  roof. 

Board  up  your  back  wall  with  good  pine  boards,  charred 
where  they  come  in  contact  with  the  ground ;  also  the 
three  feet  of  front  between  the  ground  and  the  eaves  (or, 
if  stone  is  plenty,  it  is  far  better  to  lay  up  a  wall  in 


30 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE  AND   CONSERVATORY. 


.cement) ;  shingle  the  back  outside,  and  lathe  and  plaster, 
or  rather  back-plaster,  as  it  is  called,  within.  If  your 
front  is  board,  '  clapboards -look  better  than  shingles,  and 
cost  but  little  more.  Board  up  and  shingle  the  ends, 
leaving  one  or  more  doors,  as  may  be  desired.  Sink  a 
walk,  two  feet  wide,  through  the  middle  of  the  length  of 
the  whole  house,  deep  enough  to  give  plenty  of  head  room ; 
board,  stone,  or  brick  up  the  sides.  Your  structure,  thus 
far,  is  very  inexpensive.  Now  for  the  rafters  and  glass 
roof.  It  is  not,  for  our  purpose,  necessary  to  have  sliding 
sashes,  nicely  fitted  and  framed,  or  grooved  rafters ;  these 
are  expensive.  The  roof  must  be  one  entire  piece.  But 
do  you  dispense  with  ventilation  ?  By  no  means.  This 
would  be  a  fatal  neglect,  in  our  climate,  with  such  a  power- 
ful summer  sun. 

It  is  easily  provided  for  by  having  boards,  x  and  y,  both 

front  and  rear,  either  at 
intervals  or  along  the 
whole  line,  as  may  be 
needful.  These  are  hung 
on  hinges,  so  as  to  open 
outwards,  and  permit  a 
current  of  air  to  pass 


3ft. 


s  it. 


2ft. 


thr6ugh  the  whole  breadth   of  the  house, 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY.  31 

To  construct  the  roof,  form  a  "  plate "  along  the  posts, 
front  and  back ;  to  this  nail  the  rafters,  running  from  post 
to  post.  Into  these  rafters  fit  lighter  pieces  of  wood,  run- 
ning at  right  angles  with  the  rafters  the  whole  length  of  the 
house,  letting  the  top  be  flush  with  the  top  of  the  rafter, 
thus,  R  R,  being  the  rafters,  C  C  being  the  cross-pieces. 


Then,  parallel  with  the  rafters,  along  the  whole  length 
of  the  house,  nail  other  lighter  strips  to  the  cross-pieces, 
C  C,  securing  them  at  eaves  and  top  to  the  plate. 

These  strips  should  be  grooved  like  a  common  sash  bar, 
and  laid  upon  the  roof  just  far  enough  apart  to  receive  the 
glass.  Glaze  with  common  clear  glass.  Paint  all  with 
fire-proof  paint,  and  you  have  a  green-house  sufficient  for 
all  purposes,  at  a  cost  of  about  six  dollars  per  foot.  This 
cost  may  be  indefinitely  increased  by  using  finer  materials ; 
our  estimate  is  for  rough  boards  and  common  glass.  Heat 
by  a  common  stove,  as  above  described,  or  by  a  brick  flue. 
For  this  latter,  however,  a  small  cellar  near  one  end,  cov- 


32  THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY. 

ered  with  a  bulk-head  door,  will  be  necessary  for  the 
furnace  ;  and  also  a  shed  for  storing  coal,  and  for  a  potting 
room.  This  may  be  built  on  behind  at  a  trifling  cost. 

It  is  also  advisable  to  have  a  gutter  along  the  eaves,  to 
catch  the  water  from  the  roof.  This  should  communicata 
with  a  large  hogshead  sunk  in  the  ground  inside,  and  thus 
a  supply  of  water,  of  the  proper  temperature,  is  always 
at  hand. 

A  structure  of  this  sort  will  answer  equally  well  for  a 
cold  grapery,  or  for  a  peach  house,  in  which  cases  the 
plastering  may  be  dispensed  with,  and  the  house  may  be 
battened  instead  of  shingled,  by  which  the  cost  would  be 
somewhat  reduced. 

A  conservatory,  communicating  with  the  parlor,  is  a 
beautiful  addition  to  a  house,  and  is  easily  constructed. 
We  live  in  the  age  of  bow  windows,  and  by  lengthening 
one  of  these  our  conservatory  is  built.  Let  the  sides  and 
end  be  of  glass ;  the  sides  may  be  stationary  or  sliding 
windows ;  the  end,  a  door  opening  upon  the  lawn  or  garden 
walk.  The  roof  should  have  some  sliding  sashes  for  ven- 
tilation. The  width  must  be  that  of  the  bay  window; 
the  length  may  be  according  to  the  taste  of  the  owner,  but, 
to  look  well,  should  be  proportioned  to  the  width.  It 


THE   GREEN-HOUSE    AND    CONSERVATORY.  33 

should  communicate  with  the  parlor  by  glass  doors,  in  order 
to  prevent  the  dampness  from  entering  the  house.  Heating 
should  be  done  by  a  small  stove,  with  hot-water  boiler 
fitted  as  above  described,  the  pipes  to  be  carried  round  the 
house,  and  hidden  by  shelves  for  plants. 

The  interior  arrangements  must  vary  with  the  taste  of 
the  owner.  Climbers,  such  as  roses,  bignonias,  and  passion 
flowers,  should  be  planted  in  large  tubs,  or  in  sunken  brick 
pits,  filled  with  prepared  soil. 

The  stove  may  be  hidden  by  a  staging,  or  by  large 
plants  standing  around  it ;  or,  if  desired  and  convenient, 
the  heating  apparatus  might  be  in  the  house  cellar,  and 
only  the  pipes,  which  could  be  hidden,  enter  the  con- 
servatory. 

This  conservatory  may  run  south,  east,  or  west ;  but  in 
any  case,  \vooden  shutters,  to  be  put  up  on  cold  and  windy 
nights,  should  be  provided  for  the  sides.  Double  windows 
may  be  used,  but  the  plants  do  not  thrive  so  well  as  with 
single  glass. 

And  now,  having  built  our  green-house,  we  must  stock  it. 

Do  not,  however,  be  in  haste ;  the  green-house  will  fill 
up  fast  enough.  Let  us  not  run  into  the  error  of  almost 
all  amateurs,  and  overstock;  Jet  our  aim  be  quality  x  rot 


34  THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY. 

quantity ;  and,  to  enable  us  to  select,  let  us  look  at  other 
green-houses,"  and  gain  from  the  experience  of  others. 
Let  us  visit  any  green-house  in  our  neighborhood,  and  care- 
fully examine  the  collection  :  in  how  many  shall  we  find  a 
dozen  really  beautiful  specimen  plants  ?  Here  and  there, 
now  and  then,  a  fine,  well-bushed,  or  trained,  well-propor- 
tioned plant  may  be  seen  ;  but  the  mass  are  tall,  long- 
drawn,  ungainly,  ugly  plants,  which,  aside  from  their  com- 
panions, possess  no  beauty  or  symmetry.  How,  then,  do 
they  appear  so  well?  By  grouping;  each  hides  the  defects 
of  each,  and  a  stage-full  of  these  ugly,  ill-grown  plants 
may  often  present  a  fine  appearance.  But  this  is  not  the 
true  end  to  be  gained  in  floriculture ;  in  this  way  we  can 
never  approximate  to  perfection ;  the  evil  grows  year 
by  year. 

Of  what  plants  are  the  collections  composed?  Plants 
from  every  region  of  the  globe,  all  huddled  together  in  a 
space  not  large  enough  generally  to  grow  those  of  one 
country  to  perfection.  A  small  house,  some  sixty  feet  long, 
will  be  found  to  contain  a  collection  of  camellias,  which 
flower  and  grow  best  in  a  temperature  not  above  sixty 
degrees  ;  ericas,  which  require  about  fifty  degrees  of  heat ; 
azaleas,  which  will  bear  any  low,  dry  temperature ;  Cape 


THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND    CONSERVATORY.  35 

plants,  which  need  a  different  treatment  from  any  of  the 
above ;  acacias,  oranges,  geraniums,  pelargoniums,  tro- 
pseolums,  fuchsias,  begonias,  cyclamen,  ixias,  sparaxis, 
oxalis,  amaryllis,  roses,  and  hundreds  of  other  plants, 
dissimilar  in  habits  and  nature,  all  requiring  a  different 
treatment,  each  needing  its  peculiar  atmosphere  and  tem- 
perature ;  and  often  a  few  sickly  orchids,  or  other  stove 
plants,  with  yellow  leaves  and  weak  aspect,  from  want  of 
proper  heat,  thrust  in  to  fill  up  the  spaces  between  the 
larger  pots :  all  these  are  crowded  into  one  small  house. 
Is  it  strange  that  none  ever  reach  perfection  ?  that  all  are 
more  or  less  diseased  ?  that  the  flowers  are  poor,  and  the 
plants  sickly  ?  Can  we  expect  it  to  be  otherwise  ? 

None  will  deny  the  beauty  of  a  specimen  plant,  let  the 
kind  be  what  it  may ;  and  its  superiority  over  an  ill-grown 
plant,  let  the  latter  be  ever  so  rare  in  variety.  The  public 
eye  is  attracted  by  symmetrical  beauty,  and  not  by  novelty 
in  variety.  To  the  common  observer  a  well-grown  speci- 
men of  the  almost  forgotten  fuchsia  globosa  is  far  more 
beautiful  than  some  new  and  rare  plant,  which  presents  no 
symmetry  of  proportion. 

We  would  by  no  means  discourage  the  taste  for  new 
plants ;  it  is  a  healthy  tendency,  but  may  be  carried  too  far. 


36  THE  GREEN-HOUSE  AND   CONSERVATORY. 

If  we  neglect  all  our  old  favorites,  or  give  up  well-grown, 
valuable  plants  for  others  of  unproved  merit,  simply  because 
the  latter  are  new,  the  passion  for  novelties  becomes  a  dis- 
ease, and  produces  bad  effects  in  practice.  There  is  in  this, 
as  in  all  other  things,  a  happy  medium,  which  alone  is  the 
safe  course :  either  extreme  will  lead  us  into  error. 

The  passion  for  novelties,  or  any  injurious  effects  arising 
therefrom,  one  'would  naturally  suppose  would  be  confined 
to  amateurs,  simply  because  —  if  for  no  other  reason  —  it 
can  only  be  indulged  in  by  those  whose  pecuniary  means 
are  ample. 

But  this  is  not  the  case :  we  find  our  gardeners  exerting 
themselves  to  meet  any  demand  for  new,  rare,  and  expen- 
sive plants,  to  the  neglect  of  our  old  and  well-tried 
favorites. 

All  of  us  can  call  to  mind  some  flowers,  which,  once 
popular,  are  now  hardly  to  be  found  in  any  collection  ;  and 
yet  we  are  at  a  loss  to  give  a  reason.  Let  us  look  at  a  few 
cases. 

We  all  remember  a  pretty  little  double-flowering  brier, 
which  goes  by  the  name  of  "  bridal  rose ; "  it  is  an  ex- 
quisite plant,  —  foliage  very  delicate,  and  of  a  peculiar 
living  green,  covering  every  branch ;  flowers  snowy  white, 


THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY.  37 

rose-shaped,  with  a  green  centre,  and  studding  the  plant ; 
habit  most  favorable  for  symmetrical  culture ;  and  yet  we 
may  search  in  vain  in  our  green-houses  for  this  plant,  com- 
bining so  many  desirable  qualities :  it  is  only  to  be  found 
grown  in  old  pitchers,  and  in  the  windows  of  the  poorer 
classes,  or  in  some  private  conservatory,  where  its  beauties 
are  appreciated.  Another  instance :  Can  a  plant  more 
ornamental  at  every  season  than  the  achsenia  malvaviscus 
be  found  ?  All  the  year  it  is  studded  with  its  scarlet  blos- 
soms and  ornamental  white  berries ;  these,  contrasted  with 
the  green  leaves,  produce  a  charming  effect ;  and  yet  a  few 
years  since  it  was  impossible  to  procure  a  plant.  Latterly 
it  has  appeared  in  some  gardeners'  catalogues ;  but  whether 
from  any  demand  or  an  appreciation  of  its  merits  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  say.  The  writer  never  saw  but  one  fine  specimen  of 
this  plant,  and  that  was  a  picture  of  beauty,  over  four  feet 
in  height,  well  bushed,  covered  with  healthy  foliage,  and 
the  end  of  each  branch  crowned  with  coral  flowers,  while 
the  berries  gemmed  the  whole  plant,  white,  blush,  and  red. 
Such  a  plant  is  worth  a  green-house  full  of  the  trash  gen- 
erally cultivated ;  and  all  this  had  been  done  by  careful 
attention  in  a  parlor,  the  plant  never  having  been  carried  to 
a  green-house  :  if  this  can  be  done  in  house-culture,  what 
4 


38  THE  GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY. 

ought  we  to  expect  from  those  who  have  every  facility  for 
growing  plants  to  advantage  ? 

Instances  of  this  kind  might  be  multiplied,  but  these 
must  suffice.  What  has  caused  this  neglect,  we  are  at  a 
loss  to  say.  And  another  question  arises :  Can  a  remedy  be 
found  ?  We  think  it  can.  Let  our  cultivators,  our  garden- 
ers, our  amateurs,  estimate  a  plant  by  its  real  beauty,  value 
it  for  its  intrinsic  merit,  and  not  by  the  factitious  standards 
of  novelty,  or  dollars  and  cents.  Suppose  you  have  a  green- 
house full  of  rare  plants,  but  all  poor,  ill-grown  specimens, 
costly,  but  not  beautiful ;  your  neighbor  has  a  dozen  fine 
specimen  plants,  in  which  Nature,  assisted  by  all  the 
appliances  of  art  and  care,  has  developed  a  perfection  of 
form,  a  vigor  of  growth  and  foliage,  a  profusion  of  flower ; 
let  these  all  be  common,  well-known  plants  —  fuchsias, 
azaleas,  even  verbenas,  or  other  soft-wooded  plants :  which 
has  approached  nearer  the  true  end  of  floriculture,  regard- 
ing it  either  as  a  pleasure  or  as  a  science  ?  Surely  he  who 
develops  to  the  best  advantage  the  powers  of  Nature.  But 
we  have  taken  an  extreme  case  ;  there  may  be  as  great 
beauty,  and  often  is,  in  the  new  plants  as  in  the  old. 
Some  of  the  introductions  of  the  last  few  years  possess  beau- 
ties of  which  a  short  time  since  we  never  dreamed.  Another 


THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY.  39 

question  :  Are  we  any  nearer  improvement  ?  These  plants 
are  the  fashion  of  to-day,  and  we  fully  appreciate  their 
beauty ;  but  to-morrow  some  new  taste  will  develop,  and 
before  our  new  plants,  in  the  ordinary  course  of  nature, 
have  time  to  grow  into  good-sized  specimens,  they  are  out 
of  date,  and  are  discarded  or  neglected  as  old-fashioned. 
This  may  seem  a  severe  view,  a  harsh  statement  of  facts, 
but  it  is  literally  true. 

If  we  look  at  plants  with  the  eye  of  the  botanist,  the 
simplest  weed  becomes  invested  with  the  highest  interest ; 
and  to  the  botanist  the  rarer  and  newer  plants  are  objects 
of  special  attention ;  but  his  task,  or  rather  pleasure,  differs 
from  that  of  the  florist :  the  botanist  would  turn  away  from 
the  most  beautiful  double  flower  ever  produced,  regarding  it 
as  a  monstrosity.  But  we  are  not  writing  for  botanists,  — 
with  us  they  are  few  and  far  between, — but  for  gardeners, 
amateurs,  and  florists,  who  esteem  a  plant  rather  for  its 
flower,  foliage,  growth,  and  other  obvious  beauties,  than  for 
its  structural  adaptations,  be  they  ever  so  curious  and 
beautiful. 

If  our  amateurs  will  grow  fewer  plants,  and  grow  these 
few  well,  —  if  they  will  discard  the  mass  of  rubbish  (for  it  is 
nothing  else)  which  cumbers  the  stages  of  their  green-houses, 


40  THE  GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY. 

and  grow  their  plants  with  plenty  of  room,  light,  and  air, 
the  evil  will  be  remedied. 

They  profess  to  grow  plants  for  their  beauty,  not  from 
any  profit  to  be  derived  from  them  ;  and  yet  with  this  their 
avowed  object,  their  green-houses  seldom  present  a  more 
respectable  appearance  than  thjse  of  gardeners  who  profess 
nothing. 

But  it  may  be  said,  amateurs  need  the  flowers  for  their 
own  use,  and  therefore  must  grow  plants  to  produce  the 
most  bloom.  If  this  is  so,  let  them  grow  their  flowers  for 
cutting  in  some  green-house  used  for  nothing  else,  and  use 
their  conservatories  and  fine  plant-houses  for  specimen 
plants. 

But  there  is  a  fundamental  error  underlying  all  this 
theory ;  a  poorly  grown  plant  does  not  produce  more  flowers 
than  one  grown  with  care  as  a  specimen  ;  the  former  may 
be  sooner  drawn  into  bloom,  but  the  latter  affords  the 
greatest  profusion. 

A  constant  cutting  of  the  flowers  will  ruin  a  specimen 
plant,  unless  great  care  is  taken ;  and  this,  together  with 
the  time  taken  to  perfect  the  specimen,  is  another  reason 

why  gardeners  will  not  grow  specimens. 

• 
But  the  plant  is  the  object  of  attraction  as  much  as  the 


THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND    CONSERVATORY,  41 

flower ;  without  it  the  flowers  are  not  shown  to  the  best 
advantage,  and  the  perfection  of  beauty  is  attained  when  a 
perfectly  symmetrical  plant  is  seen,  healthy  in  foliage,  free 
from  disease,  and  gemmed  with  a  profusion  of  bud  and 
blossom. 

Let  us  consider  a  few  of  the  plants  which,  now  neglected, 
would,  as  specimens,  be  pictures  of  beauty. 

And  first,  the  CAMELLIA.  This  plant  is  by  nature  of  the 
most  symmetrical  form,  and  with  little  care  can  be  perfectly 
grown.  Contrary  to  the  general  opinion,  there  is  no  plant 
which  bears  pruning  better  than  the  Camellia.  Let  the 
branches  be  well  pruned  out,  so  as  not  to  interfere  ;  the 
plants  be  stocky  and  well  covered  with  foliage  ;  the  roots 
allowed  room  enough,  and  the  soil  kept  sweet  and  rich ; 
and  the  specimen  is  obtained.  The  common  care  of  remov- 
ing all  but  two  flower-buds^  or  even  one,  from  each  shoot, 
with  other  minor  cares,  must  not  be  neglected ;  but,  above 
all,  do  not  crowd  your  plants ;  let  them  have  light  and  air 
on  every  side,  above  and  below,  and  keep  an  even,  low 
temperature  :  follow  this  plan,  and  you  will  no  longer  com- 
plain of  weak  plants,  long-drawn,  tall  specimens  with  yel- 
low leaves  and  dropping  buds  ;  and  you  will  be  surprised  at 
the  health  and  vigor  of  your  plants.  From  one  plant  thus 
4* 


42  THE  GREEN-HOUSE  AND   CONSERVATORY. 

cared  for,  you  will  obtain  more  bloom  than  from  a  dozen 
camellias  as  commonly  grown. 

The  DAPHNE  —  a  lovely,  always  grown,  but  always  neg- 
lected flower  —  will  make  a  lovely  specimen.  Do  not  spare 
the  knife,  for  its  tendency  is  to  long,  leafless  branches. 
You  must  also  begin  with  a  young  plant,  for  to  reclaim  an 
old  specimen  is  well  nigh  hopeless. 

In  other  chapters  we  propose  to  give  rules  for  growing 
specimen  plants  ;  in  this  connection  we  only  mention  those 
peculiarly  adapted  for  green-house  culture. 

The  beauty  of  AZALEAS  as  specimens  cannot  be  too 
highly  praised ;  no  green-house  should  be  without  them ; 
yet  a  fine  specimen  is  the  work  of  years. 

ACACIAS  are  only  seen  to  advantage  planted  out  in  the 
green-house  borders ;  being  by  nature  trees,  they  never 
make  fine  specimens  in  pot  culture. 

ACH^ENIA  MALVATISCTJS,  as  before  observed,  makes  a 
lovely  specimen,  and  bears  pruning  well. 

FUCHSIAS  of  all  kinds  show  to  great  advantage,  properly 
grown,  —  except,  perhaps,  the  white  corolla  varieties,  which 
are  of  too  weak  a  habit  to  make  large  plants. 

ORANGES  bear  pruning  well,  and  grow  to  a  large  size. 

ERICAS.      We  read  of  fine  specimens,  many  feet  in  diam- 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY.  43 

eter  and  well  bushed.  Have  we  ever  seen  a  specimen 
erica  ? 

EPACEIS.     The  same  remarks  apply. 

KENNEDIAS  are  all  well  adapted  for  specimens.  Trained 
on  balloon  trellises  and  in  full  bloom,  what  can  be  prettier  ? 

The  same  may  be  said  of  ALLAMANDAS,  RHYNCOSPER- 
MUM,  COMBRETUM,  SiEPHANOTUs,  and  a  host  of  other 
climbers. 

CHORIZEMA  VARIUM  also  makes  a  beautiful  specimen 
trained  in  this  way. 

All  the  soft-wooded  climbers  are  superb  objects,  grown 
on  large  trellises,  if  the  foliage  is  in  good  health. 

PELARGONIUMS  and  GERANIUMS,  we  all  know,  make  su- 
perb specimens ;  also  VERBENAS,  HELIOTROPES,  and  other 
plants  of  the  same  nature.  HOVE  AS,  and  plants  of  kindred 
nature,  are  very  poor  subjects  for  specimens ;  but  much  may 
be  effected  by  care  and  patience.  The  Cape  bulbs,  such  as 
Ixias,  and  Sparaxis,  are  never  treated  with  proper  care ; 
they  are  forced  into  bloom,  and  then,  instead  of  allowing 
the  leaves  to  ripen  well,  the  plants  are  thrust  out  of  the  way, 
dried  off,  and  the  only  wonder  is,  they  ever  perfect  any 
bulbs.  As  it  is,  the  bulbs  decrease  in  size  year  by  year, 
and  at  last,  being  too  small  to  bloom,  are  cast  aside  as 


44  THE  GREEN-HOUSE  AND   CONSERVATORY. 

worthless.  These  remarks  apply  to  all  green-house  bulbs, 
except,  perhaps,  the  Cyclamen.  We  have  never  seen  well 
grown  pots  of  Cape  bulbs,  except  in  a  few  instances. 

Will  not  some  amateur  make  the  growth  of  bulbs  a 
specialty,  and  show  us  what  can  be  done  in  this  almost 
unexplored  region  of  floriculture  ?  We  should  say  unex- 
plored in  this  country.  In  England,  much  has  been  done, 
and  great  has  been  the  reward. 

ORCHIDS  make  superb  specimens,  but  the  growth  is  slow, 
and  the  attention  needed  immense.  The  various  classes  of 
ferns,  mosses,  lycopodiums,  and  other  cryptogamous  plants, 
can  be  very  prettily  grown. 

The  vast  class  of  variegated-leaved  plants  are  pictures  of 
beauty  if  properly  grown,  and  well  repay  any  outlay  of  care 
or  expense. 

Even  with  our  common  herbaceous  plants,  or  with  annu- 
als, a  very  pretty  effect  may  be  produced. 

Thus  we  have  shown  that  the  neglect  is  not  caused  by 
want  of  subjects  upon  which  to  practise. 

If  we  continue  to  show  our  green-houses  filled  with 
plants  which,  by  their  careless  growth  and  sickly  aspect, 
are  a  disgrace  to  us,  the  fault  is  our  own. 

Let  us  give  our  plants  the  benefit  of  our  increased  knowl- 


THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY.  45 

edge,  —  give  them  air,  light,  and  room  to  develop  their 
beauties  —  and  we  shall  soon  see  that  they  will  not  be  slow 
to  avail  themselves  of  the  liberty.  It  will  then  be  our  care 
to  repress  undue  luxuriance,  or  to  train  into  proper  shape 
the  wandering  branches. 

Above  all,  feed  your  plants  well ;  they  cannot  thrive  in  a 
poor  soil,  or  draw  nourishment  from  the  earth  if  you  do  not 
supply  it.  Again,  adapt  the  soil  to  the  wants,  to  the 
nature  of  the  plant ;  give  sand,  peat,  or  leaf-mould,  as 
the  plant  requires.  Give  water  as  the  habits  of  the  plant 
require,  and  not  promiscuously. 

These  may  seem  little  matters,  but  they  are  vital  to  the 
plant,  and  a  want  of  attention  to  them  is  sure  to  result  in 
vexation  and  disappointment. 

From  these  hints  it  will  be  easy  for  the  most  inexperi- 
enced to  choose  what  to  grow  ;  yet  another  word  of  caution 
may  not  be  misplaced  :  — 

In  a  green-house,  grow  only  green-house  plants  —  in  a 
stove,  only  stove  plants :  do  not  mix  the  two,  or  disap- 
pointment will  be  the  result. 

The  following  list  will  be  found  useful  in  choosing  plants 
for  the  green-house.  The  culture  of  each  will  be  given  in 
succeeding  chapters,  with  the  best  varieties. 


46 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY. 


Plants  for  a  Green-House  tiventy-five  feet  long. 


12  Camellia  Japonica, 
4  Orange  Trees, 
1  Mandarin  Orange, 

1  Lemon, 

6  Daphne  Odorata, 

2  «  «         Rubra, 
4  Diosma  Odorata, 

1        "        Capitata, 

4  Erica  Caffra  Alba  (Heath), 

4  Erica  Caffra  Rubra  (Heath), 

1  Cytisus  Racemosa  (Broom), 
6  Heliotropes,  in  sorts, 

2  Cestrum  Aurantiacum, 
2  Dwarf  Acacias, 

1  Aloysia      Citriodora      (Lemon 

Verbena), 
1  Burchellia  Capensis, 

1  Coronella  Olauca, 

2  Stevia, 

2  Eupatorium  Elegans, 
2  Abutilon, 
2  Chorizema, 


1  Fabiana  Imbricata, 
Jasminum  Odoratissimum  and 

Multiflorum,  (Yellow  and 
White  Jasmine,) 

2  Kennedias, 

10  Azalea  Indica, 
6  Fuchsias, 

1  Justicia  Carnea, 

2  Correas, 

1  Linum  Trigynum, 

3  Mahernias, 

2  Manettias, 
2  Myrtles, 

1  Pittosporum  Tobira, 

1  Sparmannia  Africana, 

2  Passiflora  (for  rafters), 
1  Olea  Fragrans, 

1  Tecoma    Jasminoides    (for 

rafter), 

1  Thea  Viridis  (Green  Tea), 
1  Veronica  Andersonii,  and 

Roses. 


Add  to  these  a  few  Verbenas,  Cupheas,  Salvias,  Lobelias, 
Tropaeolum,  Calceolarias,  Geraniums,  and  Cinerarias,  all 
of  which  soft-wooded  plants  can  be  raised  from  seeds  or 
cuttings,  and  the  green-house  will  be  full  enough  if  the 
plants  are  of  any  size. 


THE   GREEN-HOUSE   AND   CONSERVATORY. 


47 


We  have  in  this  place  purposely  omitted  to  mention 
the  many  bulbs  which  may  be  grown  in  the  green-house, 
preferring  to  treat  of  them  in  another  place. 

Any  of  the  above  plants  may  be  procured  at  any  well- 
stocked  green-house,  and  are  mostly  low  priced.  The  whole 
collection,  if  small  plants  were  chosen,  could  be  furnished 
for  about  seventy-five  dollars. 


CHAPTER    II. 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


Growth  of  Plants.  —  Situation  and  Exposure.  — Heat.  — Moisture. —  Tem- 
perature of  Room.  —  Ventilation. —  Washing.  —  Syringing.  —  Watering. 
—  Choice  of  Pots.  —  Window  Flower  Tables.  —  Window  Shelves.— 

(48) 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


49 


Potting.  _  Manuring.  —  Soil.  —  Peat.  —  Loam —  Sand.  —  Leaf  Mould.  — 
—  Manure.  —  Proportions  of  Each.  —  Insects.  —  Green  Fly.  —  Mealy 
Bug.  —  Scale.  —  Red  Spider.  —  Pruning. 


0  grow  plants  to  perfection  in  a  room 
is  not  an  easy  thing.  To  insure  any 
degree  of  success,  a  careful  and  con- 
stant attention  to  details  is  necessary. 
These  details  are  all  little  things  in 


themselves ;    they    seem    almost     trivial ;    but 
their   observance    is    imperative,    if  we   would 
have  our  plants  in  healthy  foliage  and  profuse 
bloom.     It  is  by  the  neglect  of  all,  or   some  of 
these,  that  plants  grown  in  rooms  usually  present 
such  a  diseased,   unhealthy   appearance. 

Any  one  of  us  can  call  to  mind  some  friend,  who,  as  we 
say,  is  always  successful  with  flowers ;  has  blossoms  when 
no  one  else  can,  and  whose  plants  are  models  of  health  and 
beauty.  We  laughingly  say,  the  flowers  are  his  friends ; 
he  knows  them,  and  they  bloom  for  him ;  and  so  it  is,  in 
fact ;  he  knows  their  peculiarities,  attends  to  their  wants, 
feeds  them  properly,  affords  the  requisite  light  and  air.  Is 
it  then  a  wonder  that  for  him  the  grateful  flowers  put  on 
5 


50  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

their  richest  dress  of  green,  and  reach  out  their  perfumed 
blossoms  ? 

But  before  we  give  rules  for  growing  window  plants,  let 
us  look  at  these  little  things,  which  may  come  under  the 
head  of  general  instructions.  And,  first,  the 

SITUATION. 

We  have  decided  to  grow  window  plants,  and  we  must 
now  choose  our  window.  Let  it,  if  possible,  face  the  east 
or  south ;  that  is,  be  one  which  receives  the  full  rays  of  the 
morning  sun.  If  we  are  unfortunate  enough  not  to  have 
such  a  window,  choose  the  one  having  the  most  sun ;  the 
afternoon  sun  is  better  than  none  at  all.  There  are  very 
few  plants  which  will  nourish  without  sunlight,  and,  as  a 
general  rule,  the  more  we  can  obtain  the  better.  If  you 
have  a  bay  window,  looking  south,  you  need  ask  nothing 
better . 

HEATING. 

If  possible,  choose  a  room  where  the  temperature  at 
night  never  falls  below  forty  to  forty-five  degrees.  Let  this 
heat  be  maintained  by  an  open  fire,  or  by  an  air-tight 
stove,  on  which  a  large  pan  of  water  should  be  constantly 
evaporating.  A  furnace  is  injurious  to  plants,  by  reason 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  51 

of  its  dry  heat  only ;  the  little,  gas  escaping  from  our  best 
furnaces  is  not  sufficient  to  affect  plants  injuriously.  And 
while  speaking  of  gas,  if  possible  avoid  the  use  of  gas 
light  in  the  room ;  the  unconsumed  gas,  always  given  off,  is 
fatal  to  delicate  plants,  and  hurtful  to  the  most  hardy.  If 
you  must  use  gas  in  the  room,  arrange  glass  doors  to  shut 
off  your  plants  from  the  room,  or  give  up  window  plants, 
and  confine  yourself  to  growth  in  Wardian  cases.  If  a 
furnace  is  your  only  means  of  heating,  provide  for  sufficient 
moisture  by  constant  evaporation.  Another  objection  to  a 
furnace  is,  that  it  keeps  the  room  too  warm  for  a  healthy 
growth  of  the  plants. 

The  cause  of  so  many  window  plants  showing  long, 
white,  leafless  stalks,  with  a  tuft  of  leaves  on  the  end,  is, 
too  great  heat  and  too  little  light.  Proportion  the  two,  and 
you  obtain  a  short,  stocky,  healthy  growth.  In  rooms, 
this  proportion  is  always  unequal.  In  winter,  there  are 
eight  hours  of  sun  to  sixteen  of  darkness;  we  keep  the 
plant  at  a  temperature  of  sixty  to  seventy  degrees  all  the 
twenty-four.  In  a  green-house,  on  the  contrary,  the  tem- 
perature falls  to  forty  degrees  at  night,  rising,  by  the  hea* 
of  the  sun,  by  day,  to  a  maximum  of  seventy. 


52  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

VENTILATION. 

This  must  not  be  neglected;  it  is  as  essential  to  the 
health  of  the  plant  as  to  the  human  organization.  The  best 
method  of  providing  it  is  to  open  the  top  of  the  window  when 
the  sun's  rays  are  hottest  on  the  plants.  The  quantity  of 
air  to  be  given  must  be  proportioned  to  the  outside  tem- 
perature. In  cold,  cloudy  days,  but  little,  and  often  none, 
should  be  given.  Care  must  be  taken  never  to  allow  a 
direct  stream  of  cold  air  to  blow  upon  any  plant. 

WASHING. 

This  must  be  done  frequently.  A  plant  breathes  like  an 
animal,  and  not  through  one  mouth,  but  thousands.  As  is 
well  known,  the  plant  draws  up  its  food  from  the  soil 
through  the  roots,  in  a  liquid  form.  This  food,  very  much 
diluted,  must  be  concentrated,  and  thus  assimilated  to  the 
plant.  We  have  in  the  leaves  of  the  plant,  a  most  beauti- 
ful arrangement  to  answer  this  need.  They  are  filled  with 
"  stomata,"  or  breathing  pores,  which  allow  exhalation  when 
moisture  is  freely  supplied,  and  check  it  when  the  supply 
falls  off.  These  little  mouths  are  found  on  both  sides  of 
the  leaf  in  most  plants,  but  usually  on  the  lower  side  in  by 
far  the  greater  number.  They  vary  in  different  plants  from 


WINDOW   GARDENING.  53 

several  hundred  to  more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand to  a  square  inch  of  leaf.  Now  we  are  careful  in  our 
own  persons  to  bathe  daily,  lest,  as  we  say,  the  pores  of  the 
skin  become  obstructed;  yet  we  are  willing  to  allow  our 
plants  to  go  unwashed  for  a  whole  winter,  when  the  pores 
are  much  smaller,  more  numerous  and  delicate,  than  those 
of  the  body.  The  rule  is  obvious :  wash  the  leaves  of  the 
plants,  both  under  and  upper  sides,  at  least  once  a  week ; 
if  oftener,  the  better.  Use  water  moderately  warm,  and  if 
the  plants  become  very  dirty,  a  little  weak  soap-suds  is 
beneficial.  This  washing  should  be  carefully  done  with  a 
soft  sponge  or  cloth  in  the  case  of  plants  with  thick,  pol- 
ished leaves,  such  as  camellias,  oranges,  and  daphnes, 
Where  plants  have  hairy  leaves,  or  the  substance  is  soft, 
water  is  best  applied  with  a  small  syringe,  fitted  with  a 
very  fine  "  rose."  To  use  this,  place  the  plant  on  its  side 
in  the  kitchen  sink,  syringe  it  well,  turning  it  from  side  to 
side.  Let  it  stand  a  few  minutes  for  the  water  to  drain  off, 
and  return  it  to  its  place :  it  will  thank  you  for  its  bath  by 
its  bright  foliage,  Never  wet  the  flowers  of  a  plant;  water 
always  injures  them ;  nor  allow  drops  of  water  to  stand  on 
any  leaves  in  the  sunshine  :  the^  rays  of  the  sun  form  a 
focus  in  the  drop  of  water  and  scorch  the  leaf.  Once  a 
5* 


54  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

month,  at  least,  wash  the  stem  and  branches  of  all  the  hard- 
wooded  plants  with  a  soft  sponge  dipped  in  lukewarm 
water;  this  prevents  the  lodgment  of  insects,  and  con- 
tributes to  the  health  of  the  plant. 

WATERING 

Is  one  of  the  most  difficult  subjects  to  prescribe  by  rule, 
yet  there  are  some  rules  of  general  application. 

Let  it  be  always  done  with  a  watering-pot  with  a  fine 
rose,  such  as  may  be  procured  at  any  tinman's.  The 
advantage  of  this  is,  it  allows  the  water  to  fall  drop  by  drop 
over  the  whole  surface  of  the  soil,  whereas,  if  a  pitcher  is 
used,  the  plants  are  deluged,  or  holes  made 'in  the  earth  by 
the  stream  of  water,  and  the  roots  not  unfrequently  dis- 
turbed. 

Let  it  be  done  regularly ;  the  morning  is  the  best  time, 
and  once  a  day. 

The  surface  of  the  soil  should  never  be  allowed  to  become 
perfectly  dry,  nor  should  it  be  sodden  with  moisture.  The 
^temperature  of  the  water  used  is  of  vital  importance.  It 
should  neither  be  cold  nor  warm,  but  just  the  temperature 
of  the  atmosphere  of  the  room.  Thus  no  check,  or  chill,  or 
undue  excitement  is  given  to  the  roots,  both  roots  and 
branches  being  equally  warm. 


WINDOW   GARDENING.  55 

A  good  plan  is,  to  set  over  night  a  large  pan  of  water 
among  your  flowers,  then  you  will  be  sure  of  a  sufficiency 
of  water  of  the  proper  temperature  for  the  morning  water- 
ing. If  this  is  too  much  trouble,  remember  in  watering,  it 
is  better  to  have  the  water  too  warm  than  too  cold,  that  is, 
of  a  higher  rather  than  a  lower  temperature  than  the  roots 
and  branches.  Now  as  to  the  quantity  of  water.  No  rule 
of  universal  application  can  be  prescribed.  What  is  life  to 
one  class  of  plants  is  death  to  another.  The  amount  of 
water  necessary  to  make  a  calla  lily  thrive  would  kill  a 
cactus  or  a  heath,  and  yet  the  drought  necessary  for  the 
cactus  would  be  death  to  the  heath. 

A  good  rule,  however,  is  never  to  allow  the  soil  to 
become  dusty  or  muddy,  and  with  drainage  in  potting  the 
latter  is  easily  prevented;  by  regular  waterings,  the  for- 
mer. Particulars  of  treatment  for  different  plants  will  be 
given  when  treating  of  each  plant. 

Never  allow  water  to  stand  in  the  saucers  of  the  pots 
unless  the  plants  are  semi-aquatic. 

POTS. 

Choose  the  common  flower-pots,  selecting  those  which 
are  light  colored  rather  than  those  which  are  brick  red ;  the 


56  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

former  are  soft  baked  and  are  more  porous ;  in  these,  the 
plants  thrive  better. 

Discard  all  glazed,  china,  glass,  or  fancy  painted  pots ; 
they  are  not  porous,  and  plants  seldom  thrive  in  them. 
There  is  nothing  neater  than  the  common  earthen  pot,  if 
kept  clean.  If,  however,  something  more  ornamental  is 
desired,  choose  some  of  the  fancy  pots,  —  and  some  are  very 
pretty  and  artistic  in  design,  —  and  let  them  be  large 
enough  to  set  the  common  pot  inside. 

But  there  is  a  very  pretty  way  of  fitting  up  a  window 
which  is  but  little  practised ;  it  is,  in  fact,  making  the  win- 
dow a  flower  garden.  Build  from  your  window  into  the 
room  a  rounding  wooden  shelf,  say,  if  the  window  is 
large,  three  feet  in  diameter  from  window  to  outer  edge, 
but  at  any  rate  proportioned  to  the  size  of  the  window. 

V 

On  this,  place  a  large  box,  wood,  or  earthen  ware  unglazed, 
made  to  conform  to  the  shelf,  and  in  this  put  your  plants, 
the  taller  at  the  back,  the  smaller  in  front,  and  on  each 
side  a  climber  to  run  over  the  top  of  the  window,  on  a  neat 
wire  trellis  or  on  strings. 

It  is  desirable  to  have  holes  in  the  bottom  of  the  box  to 
allow  superflous  water  to  escape,  and  to  permit  this,  the 
shelf  should  be  covered  with  zinc,  which  is  preferable  to 


WINDOW   GARDENING.  57 

tin,  as  it  does  not  rust,  and  have  a  low  rim  all  around  it, 
with  a  little  hole  to  drain  off  the  superfluous  water  running 
from  the  boxes.  This  is  a  very  pretty  way  of  window  gar- 
dening, but  is  only  to  be  practised  in  a  very  light  room ; 
for  in  a  room  with  but  one  window,  the  plants  would  all 
grow  to  the  light,  and  being  planted  out,  they  could  not  be 
turned  as  if  in  pots.  A  pretty  way  to  grow  low  plants, 
bulbs,  and  is  to  fit  a  box,  say  eighteen  inches  wide,  and  as 
long  as  the  window,  into  the  window,  and  then  place  the 
taller  plants  behind  in  pots.  This  box  could  be  turned  as 
occasion  required,  or  as  the  plants  grew  towards  the  light, 
or  could  even  be  removed  from  window  to  window. 

POTTING. 

But  a  few  words  are  necessary.  Always  fill  the  lower 
inch  of  the  pot  with  broken  potsherds  to  secure  drainage. 
In  filling  the  soil  around  the  plants,  press  it  in  firmly  and 
establish  the  plant  well.  There  is  no  advantage  in  loose 
potting. 

In  re-potting,  pare  off  as  much  of  the  old,  sour  soil  as 
possible,  being  careful  not  to  injure  the  roots,  and  place  the 
ball  of  the  plant  in  the  centre  of  the  new  pot,  filling  in  all 
around  with  fresh  soil.  As  a  general  rule,  plants  need 


58  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

re-potting  whenever  the  roots  begin  to  curl  round  the  inside 
of  the  pot,  or  as  gardeners  say,  "  touch  the  pot."  This  is 
easily  ascertained  by  turning  the  pot  down,  striking  the 
rim  gently  against  some  object  by  a  quick  rap,  holding  the 
ball  of  earth  and  the  plant  on  the  palm  of  the  other  hand. 
The  plant  may  thus  be  taken  from  the  pot  and  examined, 
returned  again,  settled  by  a  smart  stroke  of  the  bottom  of 
the  pot  on  the  table,  and  will  be  none  the  worse  for  the 
inspection.  This  is  also  a  good  way  to  detect  worms  in 
pots,  they  generally  living  near  the  outside  of  the  ball.  The 
operation  must,  however,  be  quickly  done,  or  the  worm  will 
be  too  nimble  and  withdraw  into  the  interior  of  the  ball. 

Stirring  the  surface  of  the  soil  is  very  beneficial,  especially 
for  roses,  if  the  roots  are  not  thereby  injured.  Top  dressing 
is  also  productive  of  good  effects,  particularly  with  old 
plants  in  heavy  pots  and  tubs.  It  is  simply  removing  the 
top  soil  as  far  down  as  the  upper  roots,  and  refilling  the 
pot  with  fresh,  light,  rich  soil. 

MANURING 

Is  not  generally  needed  in  pot  plants.  A  mixture  of  pow- 
dered or  small  bits  of  charcoal  in  the  soil  adds  a  deeper  lus- 
tre to  the  green  of  the  foliage  and  brilliancy  to  the  color  of 


WINDOW   GARDENING.  59 

the  flowers.  Bone  shavings  produce  the  same  effect  on 
hyacinths. 

Liquid  manure  should  be  sparingly  used,  and  then  very 
weak. 

If  guano,  a  tea-spoonful  to  a  quart  of  water  applied  once 
a  week. 

Liquid  stable  manure  in  about  the  same  proportion, 
applied  as  seldom. 

SOIL. 

In  potting  window  plants  rich  soil  should  generally  be 
used.  The  different  kinds  of  soil  are,  — 

Peat,  which  is  black  earth  or  decomposed  vegetable 
fibre,  usually  taken  from  meadows  or  damp  woods.  If  a 
mixture  of  white  sand  is  with  it,  it  becomes  more  valuable. 

Loam,  our  common  garden  soil.  It  may  be  black  or 
light  brown.  The  best  is  obtained  by  taking  the  turf  of 
old  pastures  and  letting  it  lay  till  it  all  crumbles. 

Sand,  common,  or  "  silver,"  such  as  used  by  glass 
makers.  It  should  be  free  from  salt.  White  beach  sand 
may  be  freshened  by  frequent  washings. 

Leaf  mould,  the  decomposed  leaves,  being  the  top  soil  in 
old  woods. 


60 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


Manure,  the  material  of  an  old  hot-bed,  well  rotted 
and  entirely  decomposed ;  the  older  the  better. 

From  these  five  earths  all  the  soil  for  green-house  opera- 
tions is  compounded. 

In  treating  of  each  plant  hereafter  we  will  give  its  con- 
genial soil. 

As  a  general  soil  for  potting  plants,  we  would  say  two 
parts  leaf  mould,  one  part  manure,  one  half  part  loam,  one 
half  part  peat,  one  part  sand. 


INSECTS. 

The  only  ones  troubling  house  plants  are,  the  green  fly, 
the  mealy  bug,  the  scale,  and  the  red  spider. 

Green  fly  is  to  be  killed  by  a  smoking  with  tobacco.  Put 
the  plant  under  a  barrel  with  smoking  tobacco ;  let  it 
remain,  say  fifteen  minutes ;  then  give  it  a  syringing. 

Mealy  bug  is  to  be  searched  for  and  destroyed.  Fre- 
quent spongings  do  much  to  keep  down  this  pest. 

Scale  is  to  be  treated  in  the  same  way.  Warm  soap-suds 
are  peculiarly  distasteful  to  the  creature. 

Red  spider,  which  is  seldom  found  on  house  plants,  is 
nourished  by  a  dry,  warm  atmosphere.  Water  is  certain 
death.  Keep  the  foliage  syringed  and  atmosphere  moist, 
and  you  will  have  no  red  spider. 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


61 


PRUNING 

Is  but  little  required.  Should  a  branch  grow  out  of  place 
or  die,  it  should  be  neatly  cut  off ;  and  a  judicious  pinching 
does  much  to  regulate  the  shape  of  a  plant.  More  will  be 
said  on  this  subject  in  the  chapter  on  specimen  plants.  Of 
course  all  dead  leaves  and  old  blossoms  should  be  cut  off  at 
once. 


'LL  teach  thec  miracles !  Walk  on  this  heath, 
And  say  to  the  neglected  flower,  "  Look  up, 
And  be  thou  beautiful!"  If  thou  hast  faith, 
It  will  obey  thy  word. 


CHAPTER    III. 


PLANTS    FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING. 


THE  CAMELLIA  :  History.  —  Culture.  —  Soil.  —  Temperature.  —  Potting. 
—  Pruning.  —  Selection  of  Varieties.  ORANGE  AND  LEMON  TREES  : 
Culture.  —  Growth.  —  Blooming.  —  Varieties.  —  Seedlings.  —  Budding 
THE  DAPHNE  :  Pruning.  —  Potting. — Varieties.  —  Soil.  THE  AZALEA 

(62) 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 


63 


Description.  —  Potting1.  —  Culture.  —  Pruning.  —  Varieties.  THE  HEATH  : 
History.  —  Soil.  —  Drainage.  —  Watering-.  —  Hard  and  Soft  Wooded. 
—  Temperature.  —  Summer  Culture.  —  Re-potting-.  —  Insects.  —  Rooting- 
Plants.  —  Varieties.  THE  CYCLAMEN:  Potting.  —  Soil.  —  Growth. — 
Seedlings.  —  Varieties. 

|N  the  selection  of  our  plants,  we  must  be 
much  influenced  by  the  extent  and  loca- 
tion of  our  accommodations.  Some 
plants  thrive  with  less  heat  and  light 
than  others.  As  a  general  rule,  choose 
only  green-house  plants,  avoiding  any 
usually  catalogued  by  nurserymen  as  stove 
plants.  Discard  ferns  and  lycopodia.  With 
but  few  exceptions,  these  perish  in  the  hot,  dry, 
dusty  air  of  our  rooms.  The  Wardian  case  is  their  proper 
place.  Remember  it  is  better  to  grow  one  plant  well  than 
two  badly.  Because  you  have  roses,  geraniums,  and 
daphnes,  which  do  well,  it  is  no  reason  you  should  also 
grow  verbenas,  fuchsias,  and  azaleas ;  your  space  is  suffi- 
cient for  the  first  three  only ;  then  be  content,  and  do  not 
crowd  your  plants. 

Now  let  us  first  give  in  detail,  with  their  treatment,  a 
list  of  plants  suitable  for  window  gardening ;  then  select 
those  for  peculiar  exposures. 


64  PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING. 

THE    CAMELLIA 

The  camellia  is  a  native  of  China  or  Japan,  from  whence 
it  was  introduced  to  British  gardens  about  the  year  1739. 
The  name  was  given  in  honor  of  Father  Kamel,  a  Mora- 
vian priest,  whose  name,  Latinized,  became  Camellus. 

The  plants  first  introduced  were  .fairly  killed  by  kind- 
ness ;  an  error  not  unfrequently  repeated  in  our  day  with 
newly-discovered  plants.  They  were  planted  in  a  stove, 
where  the  extreme  heat  soon  dried  the  leaves  and  parched 
the  plant.  We  find  no  further  mention  of  the  plant  till 
1792,  when  the  single  red  variety  (Camellia  Japonica)  was 
introduced,  and  flowered  profusely  in  a  common  green- 
house ;  during  the  next  year  many  plants  of  this  variety 
were  obtained  from  China ;  next  we  find  mention  of  the 
double  red ;  soon  after,  the  fringed  double  white,  and  many 
varieties  too  numerous  to  mention.  Strange  to  say,  the 
single  white  was  not  imported  till  about  the  year  1820,  and 
even  now  it  is  not  common,  though  a  showy  and  free- 
blooming  variety. 

The  camellia,  in  its  native  country,  is  a  shrub  or  small 
tree,  though  Mr.  Fortune  mentions  specimens  of  the  single 
red  as  sometimes  exceeding  twenty  feet  in  height,  with 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.        65 

trunks  of  proportionate  size.  This  variety  is  almost  hardy, 
and  in  the  Middle  States  will  often  endure  the  winter ; 
we  have  known  it  to  survive  even  our  climate,  when  well 
protected ;  all  other  varieties  are  more  tender,  and  few  will 
bear  any  severe  frost  without  injury.  Most  of  the  kinds  in 
our  green-houses  are  derived  from  Camellia  Japonica,  though 
other  varieties  have,  we  believe,  afforded  fine  seedlings, 

CULTURE. 

The  plants  should  be  grown  in  light  loam,  or  sandy  peat 
and  loam,  say  three  parts  loam,  two  parts  leaf  mould,  one 
part  sandy  peat ;  fill  the  pots  one  third  full  of  potsherds, 
to  secure  drainage,  which  is  indispensable ;  if  the  roots  of 
the  plant  become  sodden,  particularly  during  the  season  of 
rest,  the  health  of  the  plant  is  gone,  and  years  of  care  may 
fail  to  restore  its  beauty,  or  remedy  the  evil  caused  by  a 
little  carelessness  in  watering.  When  in  a  growing  state, 
you  can  hardly  give  too  much  water,  and  much  good  may 
be  derived  from  frequent  sprinklings  or  syringings ;  this 
operation,  however,  must  never  be  performed  in  sunny 
weather.  One  chief  care  in  the  culture  of  camellias  is  to 
keep  them  perfectly  clean ;  dust  upon  the  foliage  not  only 
injures  the  beauty  of  the  plant,  but  affects  its  health.  The 
6* 


66        PLANTS  FOB  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

plants  are  injured  by  too  much  heat ;  some  hold  that  no 
artificial  heat  should  be  afforded,  unless  necessary  to  keep 
off  the  frost ;  but  as  we  wish  our  camellias  to  bloom  at  a 
season  when  there  is  but  little  else  to  ornament  the  green- 
house, it  is  advisable  to  force  them  moderately. 

A  safe  rule  is,  never  to  allow  the  temperature  to  fall 
below  forty  degrees  at  night,  or  rise  above  sixty-five  or 
seventy  degrees  during  the  day.  The  plants  will  thus 
expand  the  flowers  more  slowly  and  naturally,  and  there 
will  be  no  complaint  of  dropping  buds,  imperfect  flowers, 
and  yellow,  sickly  foliage.  One  prime  mistake  in  flori- 
culture is  the  little  attention  paid  to  uniformity  of  tempera- 
ture ;  a  plant  can  no  more  preserve  a  healthy  state  when 
exposed  to  an  atmosphere  varying  from  thirty  to  one  hun- 
dred degrees  in  a  few  hours,  now  dry  and  now  surcharged 
with  moisture,  than  can  an  animal.  The  progress  of  dis- 
ease may  be  more  gradual,  but  it  is  sure  to  show  itself, 
and,  sooner  or  later,  the  death  of  the  plant  is  the  result. 
The  plants,  when  in  bloom,  should  be  shaded,  as  thus  the 
flowers  remain  in  perfection  much  longer.  Give  the  plants 
plenty  of  air  at  all  times,  but  during  the  season  of  growth 
protect  them  from  chilling  draughts,  which  would  cause  the 
young  leaves  to  curl  and  stunt  the  plant.  During  the 


PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING.  67 

summer,  the  plants  should  be  placed  in  a  shady,  airy 
situation,  out  of  doors  ;  allow  room  enough  between  the 
plants  for  free  circulation  of  air ;  the  practice  of  setting 
the  plants  in  a  mass,  under  trees,  is  most  objectionable ; 
in  the  first  place,  the  drip  from  the  branches  overhead  is 
injurious,  and  again,  the  pots  become  filled  with  earth- 
worms, which  are  often  difficult  to  dislodge. 

Another  mistake  in  the  culture  of  camellias  is  too  fre- 
quently re-potting ;  while  the  plant  should  not  be  allowed 
to  become  pot-bound,  too  much  room  should  not  be 
afforded ;  a  vigorous  plant  will  not  require  re-potting 
oftener  than  every  three  years ;  on  this  point  there  is, 
however,  some  difference  of  opinion.  It  is  a  popular  error 
that  the  wood  of  a  camellia  should  not  be  cut ;  on  the 
contrary,  there  is  scarcely  a  hard-wooded  plant  that  bears 
the  knife  better;  the  plant  is  by  nature  symmetrical  in 
growth,  and,  by  judicious  pruning,  perfect  specimens  may 
easily  be  obtained.  • 

Pruning  should  be  done  after  blooming,  just  as  the  plants 
begin  their  growth.  .Not  more  than  one  flower  bud  should 
be  allowed  on  each  terminal  shoot,  if  size  and  perfection 
of  flower  ai3  required;  remove  all  others  before  the  buds 
begin  to  swell ;  if  delayed  longer,  little  advantage  is  gained. 


68        PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

The  florists'  varieties  of  the  camellia  are  too  numerous 
to  mention ;  the  principal  colors  are  red,  white,  and  rose, 
with  all  the  intermediate  shades.  The  Chinese  profess  to 
possess  a  yellow  variety,  but  we  believe  it  has  never  been 
imported ;  we  have  seen  a  variety  named  "  yellow,"  the 
flowers  being  semi-double,  and  of  a  dirty  white  color. 

The  following  are  all  well-proved  kinds,  and  may  easily 
be  procured  of  any  nurseryman.  In  buying  plants,  select 
those  of  shrubby  form,  dark  green  foliage,  without  any 
places  where  leaves  have  been  dropped ;  look  well  to  see 
that  the  plant  is  free  from  scale,  red  spider,  or  mealy  bug ; 
if  possible,  examine  the  roots,  to  ascertain  if  they  are  in 
a  healthy  state. 

White.  Alba  plena,  Candidissima,  Myrtifolia  alba,  Imbricata  alba, 
Fimbriata,  and  Oleifera. 

Rose,  Rosy  Pink,  or  Carmine.  Saccoi,  Henri  Favre,  Imbricata  rubra, 
Marchioness  of  Exeter,  Binneyii,  Fultonii,  Fordii,  Floyii,  Jeffersonii, 
Landrethii,  Myrtifolia,  Prattii,  Wilderii. 

Blush.    Lady  Hume's  blush,  Towne's  blush,  Pomponia. 

White,  striped  with  Red  or  Rose.  Feastii,  Eclipse,  Duchess  of  Or- 
leans, Mrs.  Abby  Wilder. 

Red,  striped  or  marked  with  White.  Carswelliana,  Chandleri,  Donck- 
elaarii,  Queen  Victoria,  Elegans,  Elphingstonia. 

Crimson.  Bealii.  Elata,  Eximia,  Lowii,  Palmer's  perfection,  Sarah 
Frost,  Wardii. 

For  Seedlings.  Waratah,  or  Anemoneflora,  Tricolor,  Donckelaarii, 
Simplex  alba,  Carnea. 


PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING.  69 

Could  we  have  but  one  camellia,  we  would  choose 
Double  white  or  Candidissima,  for  white ;  for  blush,  Lady 
Hume's  blush ;  for  crimson,  Sarah  Frost. 

All  these  are  peculiarly  adapted  for  the  window. 

ORANGE    AND    LEMON    TREES. 

These  are  favorites  for  parlor  culture,  and  easily  grown. 
Their  treatment  is  almost  identical  with  that  required  for 
the  camellia :  the  same  soil,  the  same  temperature,  and  the 
same  general  treatment  will  produce  success  in  the  culture 
of  both. 

But  they  are  by  no  means  so  clean  plants  as  the  camellia, 
being  very  subject  to  scale  and  mealy  bug.  The  only 
remedy  is  constant  washing,  both  of  the  stem  and  leaves, 
with  a  weak  soap-suds  warm,  and  applied  with  a  soft  cloth. 
Grown  in  large  tubs  they  do  well  in  a  parlor  if  kept  suffi- 
ciently cool,  and  in  summer  succeed  well  out  of  doors. 

They  are  thirsty  plants  and  require  much  Avater :  good 
drainage  is  essential.  From  December  to  March  they  will 
make  but  little  growth ;  then  -water  moderately.  About 
the  first  of  March  growth  begins,  succeeded  by  bloom ;  then 
give  more  water.  After  the  young  growth  becomes  hard- 
ened, they  may  be  set  out  of  doors  if  the  weather  is  favor- 


70        PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

able.  A  violent  wind  disfigures  the  foliage.  The  young 
fruit  will  set  in  April  and  May,  and  will  continue  green  all 
summer,  coloring  the  next  spring,  and  holding  on  the  tree 
a  long  time.  At  the  first  approach  of  frost,  the  plants 
should  be  removed  to  their  winter  quarters.  The  lemon 
does  not  bloom  and  fruit  as  early  as  the  orange,  and  is  of 
taller  growth  and  less  fitted  for  the  parlor :  the  blossoms  are 
smaller  and  purplish  outside. 

The  little  dwarf  "  Otahcite  orange"  is  a  very  common 
variety,  and  is  always  noticeable  for  its  profusion  of  fruit. 
The  flowers  are  not  as  fine  as  the  other  kinds,  though  plen- 
tifully produced.  The  fruit  is  sweet,  but  without  flavor. 

The  Mandarin  orange  is  one  of  the  finest  species  (dwarf), 
and  producing  an  abundance  of  fruit  of  the  most  exquisite 
flavor.  Unfortunately  it  is  not  common. 

There  are  many  other  larger  growing  species,  all  of  which 
produce  a  profusion  of  white  flowers,  exquisitely  fragrant. 

Among  these,  the  myrtle  leaved  is  conspicuous  for  its 
shining  foliage,  and  the  large  shaddock  for  its  enormous 
white  flowers.  The  former  is  as  symmetrical  in  its  growth 
as  the  latter  is  tall  and  ungainly. 

Oranges  and  lemons  raised  from  seed  must  attain  a  large 
size  before  they  will  bloom.  The  better  plan  is  to  graft  or 


PLANTS    FOB   WINDOW   GARDENING.  71 

rather  bud  the  seedling  when  about  a  year  old.  This 
operation  is  simple,  but  is  best  performed  in  a  green-house, 
and  it  is  therefore  better  to  employ  some  neighboring  florist 
to  do  it.  Any  variety  may  be  budded  on  a  common  seed- 
ling stock. 

Oranges  and  lemons  will  live  under  neglect,  but  to  grow 
and  flower  them  to  perfection,  attention  to  details,  espe- 
cially of  cleanliness,  is  indispensable. 

THE    DAPHNE. 

This  plant,  of  which  the  varieties  are  numerous,  never 
receives  the  care  and  attention  its  beauty  merits.  Every 
green-house  contains  plants  of  the  well-known  Daphne 
odorata,  sometimes  called  D.  Indica  and  vulgarly  known 
as  "  Daphne  odora."  It  is  to  this  plant  we  intend  more 
particularly  to  confine  our  attention. 

It  is  a  green-house  evergreen  shrub,  attaining  the  height 
of  about  four  feet,  remarkable  for  its  long,  dark,  glossy, 
green  leaves,  and  its  terminal  bunches  of  fragrant,  white 
flowers.  It  is  one  of  the  few  old-fashioned  plants  which 
the  modern  rage  for  novelties  has  not  driven  entirely  out  of 
cultivation.  It  has  only  been  thrust  into  the  corners,  and 
left  to  make  its  merits  known  by  its  beauty  and  fragrance. 


72  PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

It  is  one  of  our  most  popular  flowers,  and  as  a  window 
plant  is  unsurpassed,  flourishing  and  blooming  in  situations 
where  most  plants  would  dwindle  and  die. 

With  gardeners  it  is  no  favorite,  because,  as  they  say, 
it  is  too  straggling,  and  does  not  form  a  neat  plant.  In 
some  respects  this  assertion  is  true,  for  it  is  impossible  to 
bring  into  good  shape  a  plant  of  this  variety  when  once 
neglected ;  but  by  beginning  with  a  young,  healthy  plant, 
much  may  be  done,  and  fine  specimens  formed.  Let  it  be 
remembered  that  the  daphne  "  breaks"  easily.  Prune  the 
plant  to  a  bare  stump,  and  in  a  few  weeks  buds  will  start 
from  all  the  younger  wood ;  therefore  prune  severely ; 
never  allow  a  branch  to  remain  where  it  is -not  wanted;  let 
it  be  as  vigorous  or  luxuriant  as  it  may,  and  never  be  afraid 
of  pruning  for  fear  of  losing  the  flowers. 

The  cultivation  of  the  green-house  varieties  of  this  plant 
is  almost  identical  with  that  of  the  camellia ;  the  same  tern- 
perature  will  do  for  both. 

The  plants  should  have  plenty  of  pot  room,  and  the  pots 
be  well  drained. 

Potting  should  generally  be  done  in  the  fall,  about  the 
time  the  plants  are  housed,  when  as  much  of  the  old  soil 
should  be  removed  as  possible  without  disturbing  the  roots. 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.        73 

The  principal  varieties  are  :  — 

Daphne  odorata,  the  most  valuable  variety  from  its  sea- 
son of  flowering,  which  is  from  December  to  March,  accord- 
ing to  the  degree  of  heat  given;  leaves  oblong,  lanceolate, 
smooth ;  flowers  white  or  pinkish,  in  terminal  heads,  pro- 
duced in  great  profusion.  Introduced  from  China  about 
A.  D.I 770.  Propagated  by  cuttings  with  great  ease.  It  is 
one  of  the  best  parlor  plants  we  know  of,  and  may  be 
obtained  at  any  green- house  at  a  very  trifling  expense. 

D.  odorata  rubra  is  a  superior,  and  by  no  means  common 
variety;  buds,  red;  flowers,  rosy  red,  with  a 'powerful  spicy 
fragrance.  It  is  a  somewhat  stronger  grower  than  the  last. 

There  is  also  a  variety  with  variegated  foliage,  which  is 
no  less  desirable,  though  rather  scarce. 

Daphne  hylrida  is  a  pretty  evergreen  shrub,  hardy  in 
England,  but  too  tender  to  endure  our  winters  without 
protection  ;  flowers  purple,  produced  in  terminal  heads  and 
in  lateral  bunches  very  freely,  and  possessing  an  agreeable 
fragrance.  It  blooms  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  but  espe- 
cially from  January  to  April. 

The  soil  should  be  four  parts  loam,  two  of  leaf  mould, 
and  one  of  sand. 
7 


7-1  PLANTS   FOR  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

THE    AZALEA. 

The  Azalea  Indica,  or  Chinese  Azalea,  is  of  Asiatic  origin. 
The  varieties  are  innumerable ;  but  the  most  common  and 
longest  known  variety  is  that  from  which  others  are  but 
hybrids,  Azalea  Indica. 

It  is  a  strong  growing  plant,  with  long,  coarse,  evergreen 
leaves,  producing  in  clusters  of  three  or  more,  at  the  end  of 
the  branches  red  'flowers  marked  with  dark  spots.  This 
plant  may  be  grown  in  great  perfection,  and,  as  well  as  all 
the  varieties,  is  admirably  adapted  for  a  window  plant. 
The  habit  is  shrubby,  and  the  flowers  are  produced  in  great 
profusion.  A.  Indica  alba  has  white  flowers,  and  is  a  fine 
old  variety.  A.  Indica  purpurea  is  a  variety  with  blossoms 
of  a  light  purple  color  ;  a  profuse  bloomer,  and  of  rapid 
growth.  There  is  also  a  double  variety.  A.  Indica  coccinea 
is  bright  scarlet.  From  these  all  the  fine  varieties  of  the 
green-houses  have  been  produced. 

To  grow  the  plants  in  perfection  good  drainage  is  essen- 
tial. Fill  the  pot  one  quarter  full  of  broken  potsherds, 
then  fill  the  soil  to  within  naif  an  inch  of  the  top ;  soil,  a 
dark  peat  three  parts,  one  part  of  loam,  one  half  part  of 
silver  sand. 


PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING.  75 

Frequent  re-potting  conduces  to  the  health  of  the  plants. 
As  a  general  rule,  re-pot  when  the  roots  run  among  the 
crocks  at  the  bottom  of  the  pot.  Do  not  sift  the  soil ; 
break  it  into  small  pieces. 

Frequent  syringing  is  beneficial,  but  over-watering  must 
be  carefully  avoided.  Give  full  sunshine  to  the  plant,  but 
lay  a  little  moss  over  the  pot  if  the  sun  is  very  hot,  to  pro- 
tect the  roots. 

Keep  the  plant  about  the  temperature  prescribed  for 
camellias. 

As  soon  as  the  flowers  fall  growth  begins.  Give  plenty 
of  air  and  sun,  for  on  this  growth  depends  the  bloom  of  the 
next  year.  It  should  be  short,  close,  and  the  flower  buds 
be  set  at  the  end  of  each  branch. 

Set  the  plants  out  of  doors  in  the  summer,  as  prescribed 
for  camellias. 

Azaleas  may  be  pruned  into  any  shape.  This  operation 
should  be  performed  after  the  flowers  have  dropped,  or  after 
the  plant  has  made  its  season's  growth. 

The  Azalea  is  subject  to  rottenness  of  the  roots,  produced 
by  a  sodden  soil,  the  effect  of  over-watering.  The  remedy 
is  simple  :  re-pot  the  plant,  and  water  moderately.  Exces- 
sive dryness,  the  other  extreme,  produces  yellow  leaves  and 
a  general  unhealthy  appearance. 


76        PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

The  following  varieties  are  of  proved  excellence,  and  very 
distinct.  All  will  succeed  in  the  house. 

Azalea  amcena,  a  lovely  variety  ;  flowers  double  purple  ; 
produced  in  great  profusion  in  midwinter. 

Indica  lateritia,  salmon  ;  Danielsiana,  bright  red  ;  Per- 
reyana,  scarlet ;  Murrey  ana,  rose ;  Indica  alba,  white ; 
Purpurea,  purple  ;  Coccinea,  red. 

Iveryana,  pink  and  white ;  Variegata,  rose  and  white ; 
Gledstanesii,  white,  striped  with  red. 

This  list  might  be  increased  an  hundred  fold. 

THE    ERICA.     HEATH. 

All  the  plants  belonging  to  this  genus  are  of  a  low,  shrub- 
by habit,  with  fine  acicular  foliage.  None  are  natives  of 
America.  The  fine  varieties  of  our  green-houses,  with  the 
exception  of  the  common  Erica  Mediterranean  are  natives 
of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  whence  the  gardener's  term, 
"  Cape  Heaths." 

The  erica  will  not  thrive  unless  the  soil  is  adapted  to  its 
peculiar  nature  ;  this  is  often  very  difficult  to  learn,  and 
experience  must  sometimes  be  the  teacher.  The  soil  to 
obtain  is  one  of  a  friable  nature,  full  of  vegetable  fibre. 
We  find  in  an  old  magazine  the  best  directions  we  remem- 


PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING.  77 

ber  to  have  met  in  regard  to  choice  of  soil.  We  give  them 
entire  for  the  benefit  of  our  readers  :  — 

"  Heaths,  like  the  azalea  and  rhododendron,  make  very 
small,  hair-like  roots ;  and  where  these  latter  are  growing 
naturally,  will  be  found  a  good  locality  to  collect  soil  for 
the  artificial  cultivation  of  the  former.  This  soil  will  be 
found  full  of  decaying  organic  matter.  Take  up  a  handful 
of  it,  and  you  will  find  a  mass  of  thickly  grown,  fine  fibre, 
feeling  like  a  bunch  of  moss.  Examine  it,  and  you  will  see 
that  it  is  chiefly  composed  of  a  black  debris  of  leaves  and 
sticks,  thickly  interwoven  with  the  roots  of  surrounding 
vegetation.  An  inch  or  two  only  of  the  surface  shoul:! 
be  taken  ;  all  below  that  is  generally  inferior,  the  organic 
matter  in  it  being  too  much  decomposed. 

"  Where  this  deposit  cannot  be  obtained,  a  good  substitute- 
will  be  found  in  turves  from  old  pasture,  cut  thin,  collected 
in  dry  weather,  and  piled  in  a  heap  two  or  three  months 
before  using,  so  that  the  vegetation  in  it  may  be  slightly 
decomposed.  Both  in  its  chemical  and  mechanical  prop- 
erties such  a  soil  is  nearly  all  that  can  be  wished.  In  pre- 
paring it,  however,  it  is  better  to  chop  it  up  rather,  fine, 
securing  a  proper  mechanical  texture  by  the  admixture  of 
coarse  sand,  broken  charcoal,  or  even  a  few  pebbles,  or 
7* 


78        PLANTS  FOB  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

broken  potsherds  may  be  used  to  advantage  for  keeping  the 
soil  open,  to  allow  free  admission  for  atmospheric  gases ; 
an  essential  point  to  be  kept  in  view  in  the  cultivation  of 
all  plants,  more  particularly  those  in  pots,  for  they  are  then 
entirely  dependent  on  the  cultivator  for  those  conditions 
which  they  receive  in  their  natural  habitats. 

"Such  a  soil  as  here  recommended,  kept  sufficiently  open 
by  any  of  the  above  mentioned  ingredients,  is  easily  pene- 
trated by  air,  thereby  increasing  its  temperature  and  fac»U- 
tating  the  decomposition  of  organic  matter,  during  wh.ch 
process  various  healthful  gases  are  supplied  to  plants." 

In  either  of  the  kinds  of  soil  prepared  as  directed,  heaths 
wnl  do  well.  The  great  point  to  obtain  is  'a  loose,  porous 
soil;  for  this  reason  the  soil  should  always  be  broken, 
never  sifted. 

Another  requisite  in  heath  culture,  is  good  drainage ; 
this  cannot  be  too  strongly  insisted  upon ;  with  the  best  of 
soil,  the  plants  will  suffer  if  water  stagnates  around  the 
roots. 

Fill  the  pot  one  fourth  full  of  crocks,  and  be  careful  the 
hole  at  the  bottom  is  kept  open.  Never  place  the  pot  in  a 
saucer  or  vessel  of  any  kind,  for  all  water  not  absorbed 
must  be  allowed  to  drain  off.  The  pots  should  be  clean 


PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING.  79 

and  free  from  mould  or  dirt ;  cleanliness  is  a  point  too  much 
neglected. 

In  some  sections  of  our  country,  much  difficulty  is  expe- 
rienced in  growing  heaths  ;  the  water  containing  salts  in 
solution  which  are  fatal  to  the  plant,  and  we  know  nursery- 
men who  have  altogether  abandoned  their  culture.  This 
seems  the  case  in  limestone  countries,  and  we  have  noticed 
that  heaths,  of  the  tender  varieties,  when  watered  with 
"hard"  water,  grew  sickly  and  soon  died.  The  best  plan 
is  to  use  only  rain  water,  and  pursuing  this  course  no  diffi- 
culty will  be  experienced.  It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  in  its 
native  countries,  the  heath  is  never  found  in  a  soil  of  which 
the  substratum  is  lime  or  chalk.  In  England,  -heaths  are 
always  grown  apart  from  other  plants ;  with  us  they  occupy 
the  coolest  part  of  the  green-house.  As  a  general  rule, 
nothing  short  of  frost  is  too  cold  for  them,  and  some 
varieties  will  bear  several  degrees  of  frost  without  injury. 
In  the  wild  state,  they  are  distributed  over  a  vast  range  of 
country,  which  accounts  for  the  different  temperatures  the 
varieties  require ;  the  degree  of  cold  adapted  to  each,  must 
be  the  lesson  of  experience.  Among  gardeners,  heaths  are 
termed  hard-wooded  or  soft- wooded;  the  former  make  only 
a  short  growth  each  season,  for  example,  E.  Cavendeshii ; 


80  PLANTS    FOB    WINDOW    GARDENING. 

the  latter  grow  a  foot  or  more,  as  E.  Caffra  and  others. 
The  two  kinds  require  somewhat  different  treatment ;  the 
former  being  far  more  difficult  to  manage ;  they  are,  how- 
ever, far  more  beautiful,  some  even  dazzling  from  the  bril- 
liancy of  their  flowers.  Heaths  require  plenty  of  air.  If 
crowded,  they  are  subject  to  mildew;  a  disease  much  more 
easily  prevented  than  cured.  Air  should  be  given,  if  pos- 
sible, every  day ;  but  cold  draughts  should  be  avoided  dur- 
ing the  growing  season. 

Though  heaths  are  often  lost  during  the  winter  by  grow- 
ing them  in  too  high  a  temperature,  yet  the  greatest  mor- 
tality is  caused  by  the  heat  of  summer.  With  many  it  is 
the  custom  to  treat  the  plants  as  other  hard-wooded  plants ; 
to  turn  them  out  doors  during  the  summer,  under  the  shade 
of  some  tree.  The  consequence  is,  the  pots  are  often 
exposed  to  the  hot  sun,  the  tender  fibrous  roots  become 
parched,  and  the  plant  dies ;  or  else  the  drip  from  the  trees 
rots  the  roots,  producing  the  like  result.  Our  experience 
has  shown  the  best  plan  to  be  a  different  treatment  for  the 
plants  according  to  their  age.  Early  in  June,  all  young 
plants  should  be  planted  out  in  a  bed  with  a  northern 
exposure ;  there  they  will  grow  luxuriantly  during  the  sum- 
mer. Before  the  September  frosts,  re-pot  them  with  care, 


PLANTS    FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING.  81 

and  winter  as  old  plants.  We  have  found  a  large  bed  pre- 
pared for  rhododendrons  and  azaleas  the  most  favorable 
place.  It  is  sheltered  from  the  south  by  a  belt  of  white 
pines.  The  soil  of  prepared  peat  is  suited  to  the  wants  of 
the  plant,  while  the  large  foliage  of  the  rhododendrons 
keeps  the  soil  moist  by  preventing  rapid  evaporation.  For 
the  older  plants,  we  choose  a  shaded  spot,  and  prepare  a 
bed  of  coal  ashes ;  slope  the  bottom  to  carry  off  superfluous 
moisture  ;  plunge  the  pots  in  the  bed  of  ashes,  and  if  the  bed 
is  exposed  to  the  sun  for  any  length  of  time,  shade  by  an 
awning.  Be  careful  not  to  crowd  the  plants  ;  a  free  circu- 
lation of  air  is  essential.  By  this  mode,  the  pots  are  never 
exposed  to  the  rays  of  the  sun  ;  the  plants  receive  plenty  of 
light  without  being  burned,  and  by  syringing  at  evening, 
and  sprinkling  (not  pouring)  water  upon  the  pots  and  bed, 
a  sufficiency  of  moisture  is  secured.  Some  varieties  of  the 
soft-wooded  class,  such  as  Caffra  rubra  and  alba,  Margari- 
tacea,  and  others,  do  best  planted  out  in  the  full  sunshine. 
The  growth  becomes  short  and  stout,  and  the  plants  are 
more  hardy  and  less  liable  to  injury.  By  this  course,  how- 
ever, all  beauty  of  foliage  is  lost,  for  the  plants  become  of  a 
rusty  brown  color,  which  never  disappears  till  the  leaves  fall. 
Re-potting  should  be  done  whenever  the  roots  become 


82  PLANTS    FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING. 

matted  or  collected  at  the  bottom  or  sides  of  the  pot ; 
examine  to  see  if  they  are  healthy ;  if  so,  give  them  a 
larger  pot ;  if  not,  prune  off  those  which  are  dead,  remove 
the  old  soil,  and  pot  in  the  same  size,  or  smaller,  as  the 
case  may  require. 

The  custom  with  gardeners  is  to  pot  heaths  in  the  spring, 
but  the  grower  must  be  guided  by  the.  state  of  the  plant. 

Insects  give  but  little  trouble,  where  proper  regard  is 
paid  to  the  plants. 

Mealy-bug  is  sometimes  found ;  the  best  course  to  pur- 
sue, if  the  plant  is  badly  infested,  is  to  throw  it  away,  for 
it  is  almost  impossible  to  remove  the  insect ;  if  but  slightly 
affected,  pick  them  off,  and  wash  the  plant  well  with  warm 
soap-suds ;  whale  oil  soap  is  preferable.  The  same  rules 
apply  when  the  plants  are  troubled  with  black  or  brown 
scale.  Erica  arborea  is  particularly  subject  to  attacks  of 
the  former,  and  from  the  fine,  close  nature  of  its  foliage,  it 
is  very  difficult  to  clean. 

We  have  never  known  our  heaths  to  be  troubled  by  red 
spider  or  by  aphis. 

In  growing  ericas,  some  attention  must  be  paid  to  prun- 
ing, or  rather  to  pinching ;  the  plants  should  never  be 
allowed  to  grow  tall  and  spindling ;  they  should  be  grown 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.        83 

near  the  glass,  and,  by  frequent  turning,  prevented  from 
becoming  one-sided.  Some  varieties  are  of  symmetrical 
form  by  nature ;  others  require  much  care  to  control  the 
too  luxuriant  branches. 

Heaths  strike  freely  from  cuttings.  Take  the  tops  of  the 
young  shoots,  about  an  inch  in  length ;  prepare  a  pot  or 
pan  of  heath  soil ;  cover  this  with  silver  sand  to  the  depth 
of  half  an  inch  ;  insert  the  cuttings  about  half  their  length, 
as  thickly  as  you  please ;  cover  them  with  a  glass,  and 
frequently  wipe  the  moisture  from  the  inner  surface  of  the 
glass ;  keep  them  slightly  moist,  and  shelter  from  the  direct 
rays  of  the  sun. 

When  rooted,  pot  off  the  cuttings  into  small  pots  filled 
with  heath  soil,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  more  sand  than 
is  used  for  the  old  plants ;  as  soon  as  the  season  permits, 
plant  them  out  to  make  growth.  In  re-potting  plants  or 
cuttings,  care  should  be  taken  never  to  sink  the  crown  of 
the  root  lower  than  it  was  before ;  rather  raise  than 
sink  it. 

There  is  no  plant  which  makes  a  greater  show,  or  proves 
more  attractive  as  a  specimen,  than  the  erica.  In  England, 
it  is  grown  in  the  greatest  perfection,  some  of  the  plants 
being  twelve  feet  high,  and  eight  feet  in  thickness.  Can  a 


84  PLANTS   FOB   WINDOW   GARDENING. 

more  superb  object  than  such  a  plant  be  imagined,  when  in 
full  bloom  ? 

From  over  five  hundred  varieties,  we  cannot  be  expected 
to  give  all  that  are  deserving  of  cultivation ;  as  before 
remarked,  none  are  destitute,  of  beauty.  The  periods  of 
bloom  are  from  January  to  November  ;  indeed,  we  may 
have  heaths  in  bloom  every  month  in  the  year.  The  fol- 
lowing list  contains  a  select  variety  in  colors  :  — 

White  or  Light-Flowered.  Arborea,  Margaritacea,  Grandinosa,  Bow- 
eana,  Jasminiflora,  Conferta,  Vestita  alba,  Odorata,  Ventricosa,  Pellu- 
cida,  Wilmoriana,  Caffra  alba. 

Red  Flowers.     Gracilis,  Ignescens,  Mediterranea,  Caffra  rubra. 

Scarlet  or  Crimson.  Ardens,  Cerinthoides,  Hartnelli,  Splendens, 
Coccinea,  Vestita  fulgida,  Tricolor. 

Purple  Flowers.  Araoena,  Mammosa,  Melanthera  mutabilis,  Pro- 
pendens  tubiflora. 

Lilac.    Baccans,  Suavolens. 

Yellow.     Cavendishii,  Depressa,  Denticulata. 

Green-Flowered.     Gelida,  Veridiflora,  Viridis. 

For  window  culture,  the  varieties  succeeding  best  are 
Caffra  rubra  and  alba,  Margaritacea,  Arborea,  and  Medi- 
terranea. 

We  have  been  thus  diffuse  in  treating  of  this  plant, 
because  it  is  a  general  favorite,  yet  never  seen  in  goocl 
condition  in  the  parlor. 


PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING.  85 

The  plant  is  very  hardy,  yet  impatient  of  the  least  neg- 
lect. A  single  day's  -omission  to  water,  or  a  drenching, 
with  poor  drainage,  will  kill  the  plant;  yet  it  will  lan- 
guish for  months,  and  all  your  care  will  fail  to  restore  it. 
If  the  hair-like  roots  once  become  parched  or  sodden,  the 
plant  will  die. 

We  do  not  recommend  it  for  a  window  plant,  yet  its 
beauty  is  worth  all  the  care  required  ;  and  will  not  some 
be  fired  by  ambition  to  make  the  heath  a  window  plant  ? 

THE    CYCLAMEN. 

This  pretty  flower  is  too  little  known.  It  is  a  native  of 
Europe  and  Asia,  some  varieties  being  very  abundant  in 
Switzerland  and  Italy,  and  is  to  be  found  in  almost  every 
green-house.  It  is  of  the  easiest  culture.  Pot  about  the 
latter  part  of  November,  in  a  rich  loam,  with  a  dash  of 
silver  sand ;  an  addition  of  about  a  spoonful  of  the  old  soot 
from  a  flue  will  increase  the  size  and  brilliancy  of  the 
flowers.  It  must  be  well  incorporated  with  the  soil.  Bits 
of  charcoal,  broken  fine,  serve  the  same  purpose.  Place 
the  crown  of  the  bulb  just  above  the  surface  of  the  soil. 
The  size  of  the  pot  must  be  determined  by  the  size  of  the 
bulb  ;  as  a  general  rule,  cyclamen  do  not  require  large  pots. 
8 


86        PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

Good  drainage  is  indispensable.  Keep  the  plants  cool  till 
the  leaves  are  well  grown,  always  keeping  them  near  the 
glass.  When  the  flower  buds  begin  to  rise  on  the  foot 
stalks,  remove  to  a  sunny  shelf,  where  they  will  soon 
show  bloom.  By  shading,  the  duration  of  the  flowers  is 
prolonged.  When  the  bloom  is  past,  gradually  withhold 
water ;  the  leaves  will  turn  yellow,  and  the  plants  should 
be  kept  dry,  in  a  state  of  rest,  all  summer.  Do  not  allow 
the  plants  to  ripen  seed  (which  they  do  freely)  unless  you 
desire  seedlings,  to  increase  your  stock.  The  seed  germf- 
nates  easily,  sown  in  rich  loam,  and  seedlings  bloom  the 
third  year.  Some  find  difficulty  in  preventing  the  shrivel- 
ling of  the  bulbs  during  the  summer.  Our  best  cultivators, 
to  prevent  this,  bury  tho  bulbs  during  the  summer  in  the 
open  border ;  take  them  up  about  the  middle  of  September, 
when  they  are  found  fresh,  plump,  and  in  good  condition 
for  a  start.  There  is  one  risk,  however,  in  this  method : 
mice  are  very  fond  of  the  bulbs,  and  sometimes  commit 
great  havoc.  There  is  shown  in  this  plant  a  curious  pro- 
vision of  Nature :  no  sooner  has  the  flower  faded,  than  the 
stem  begins  to  curl  up,  and  buries  the  seed  capsule  in  the 
ground,  at  the  root  of  the  plant ;  this  is  designed  to  pro- 
tect the  seed  from  birds,  and  to  sow  it  in  a  congenial  soil. 


PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING.  87 

Good-sized,  blooming  bulbs  may  be  obtained  at  any 
green-house,  for  from  fifty  cents  to  one  dollar  each  for  the 
more  common  varieties.  This  bulb  is  particularly  adapted 
for  window  culture,  and  will  give  more  flowers,  with  less 
trouble,  and  occupying  less  space,  than  any  flower  we  are 
acquainted  with.  The  more  common  varieties  are  C.  Per- 
sicum, white,  tipped  with  rich,  rosy  purple ;  C.  Persicum 
album,  pure  white  ;  C.  punctatum,  resembling  Persicum. 
All  these  flower  from  January  to  March.  C.  Europceum, 
pinkish  purple ;  C.  Europceum  album,  pure  white ;  C. 
hederafolium,  very  large,  rosy  purple,  a  splendid  variety. 
All  these  bloom  from  October  to  January. 


Bright  gems  of  earth,  in  which  perchance  we  see 
What  Eden  was,  what  Paradise  may  te. 


CHAPTER     IV. 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 


THE  GERANIUM.  THE  PELARGONIUM  :  History.— Culture.  — Soil.  — Pot- 
ting. —  Winter  Treatment.  —  Varieties.  THE  VERBENA  :  History.  — 
Culture.  —  Cutting's.  —  Summer  Culture.  —  Potting  for  Winter.  —  Wa- 
tering.—Soil.— Seedlings.— Properties  of  a  good  Verbena.  —  Window 
Culture.  —  Varieties.  THE  HELIOTROPE  :  History.  —  Culture.  —  Prun- 
ing. —  Varieties.  THE  SALVIA,  OR  MEXICAN  SAGE  :  Summer  Culture. 

(88) 


PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING.  89 

—Winter  Culture.  —  Varieties.  THE  TROP/EOLUM,  OR  NASTURTIUM  : 
Varieties.  — Soil.  — Culture.  — Varieties  of  the  small  Nasturtium.  — Win- 
dow Culture. 

THE    GERANIUM. 

,  NDER  this  head,  we  propose  to  treat 
of  the  plants  usually  known,  in  com- 
mon parlance,  as  Geraniums,  includ- 
ing both  those  horticulturally  and 
botanically  known  as  such,  and  Pelar- 
goniums. Between  these  there  are 
many  minute  and  fanciful  distinc- 
tions ;  the  principal  seems  to  be,  the 
geranium  has  no  nectary ;  the  pelar- 
gonium has  a  nectary  adhering  to  the 
peduncle.  For  window  gardening,  their  treatment  must 
be  the  same. 

For  the  pelargoniums,  we  are  chiefly  indebted  to  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope ;  the  geranium  is  found,  in  some  of  its 
varieties,  in  Asia,  Europe,  and  America ;  two  of  the  family, 
our  "  wild  geraniums,"  being  familiar  to  us  all  as  among 
the  wild  flowers  of  spring. 

The  scarlet,  or  horse-shoe  geranium,  so  called  from  the 
color  of  its  flowers,  and  the  dark  marking  of  its  leaves,  is 
a  very  common  and  popular  window  plant.  The  rose,  oak, 


90  PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING. 

and  nutmeg  geraniums  are  commonly  grown  for  their  fra- 
grant leaves,  and  for  their  hardiness,  as  they  can  endure 
more  hard  usage  than  most  plants. 

The  general  fault  in  geranium  culture  is,  crowding.  The 
plants  need  light  and  air  on  all  sides,  and  unless  this  is 
afforded  they  soon  become  one-sided,  long-drawn,  and  strag- 
gling, with  but  few  leaves,  and  these  in  a  tuft  at  the  end. 
The  blossoms  are  small  and  few,  and  the  whole  plant  pre- 
sents a  picture  of  vegetation  under  difficulties. 

The  fine  varieties  of  pelargonium,  called  "Fancies"  by 
florists,  it  is  useless  to  attempt  to  grow  to  any  perfection  in 
the  house.  They  need  constant  care ;  and  the  rules  for 
growing  them  as  specimens,  laid  down  by  English  florists, 
are  sufficiently  confusing  and  contradictory  to  involve  the 
amateur  in  a  maze  of  difficulty. 

Light,  air,  and  cleanliness  are  the  three,  primary  rules  for 
growing  geraniums.  The  horse-shoe  and  high-scented  vari- 
eties are  not  troubled  by  insects.  The  pelargoniums  (large- 
flowered  geraniums),  require  constant  attention  to  keep 
them  free  from  the  green  fly,  which  increases  upon  them 
with  wonderful  rapidity.  If  the  weather  is  warm,  and  the 
plants  at  all  affected  by  the  fly,  they  should  be  smoked  once 
in  ten  days,  and  frequently*  syringed.  Surely  the  beauty  of 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.        91 

the  flowers  will  compensate  for  any  trouble.  To  prevent 
"  drawing,"  that  is,  the  growing  of  the  plants  towards  the 
light,  all  geraniums  should  be  frequently  turned,  which  will 
give  a  well-proportioned  plant.  If  the  plants  grow  too  tall, 
pinch  out  the  top  ;  all  the  axillary  buds  will  then  break 
into  lateral  branches.  Again,  if  the  side  branches  become 
too  close,  prune  them  out  fearlessly.  The  geranium  breaks 
easily,  and  you  need  never  be  afraid  of  killing  the  plant, 
even  if  you  prune  it  down  to  a  bare  stump. 

SOIL. 

Pelargoniums  and  geraniums  require  a  strong  soil ;  that 
is,  good  sound  loam,  such  as  will  grow  melons.  The  top 
of  a  pasture  will  answer  well.  Let  it  be  carted  home  and 
laid  up  in  a  long  ridge,  so  as  to  expose  as  large  a  surface  to 
the  air  as  possible.  Keep  it  clear  of  weeds,  and  let  it  be 
turned  over  every  little  while.  To  two  parts  of  this  loam, 
add  one  part  of  two-year-old  cow  dung,  well  turned  over. 
Old  hot-bed  dung  will  do  nearly,  but  not  quite  as  well. 
Then  add  about  one  part  of  river  sand  and  bits  of  charcoal, 
mixed.  Let  all  these  ingredients  be  kept  in  separate  heaps 
till  wanted  for  potting,  then  mix  them  in  the  above  propor- 
tions, and  use  them  moderately  dry.  This  compost  should 


92        PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

be  used  to  bloom  and  grow  the  plants  in.  For  the  winter 
season,  use  a  small  quantity  of  leaf  mould  instead  of  dung. 
Fresh  soil  is  always  to  be  preferred,  for  old  soil  is  apt  to 
become  cloddy  and  sour. 

POTTING. 

All  being  ready,  put  the  drainage  in  a  suitable  sized  pot. 
Place  first  a  suitable  crock,  or  a  large  oyster  shell  over  the 
hole ;  then  lay  a  few  large  crocks  upon  that,  and  smaller 
upon  those,  so  that  the  drainage  may  occupy  about  three 
fourths  of  an  inch.  Place  a  thin  layer  of  moss  upon  the 
drainage,  and  upon  that  a  sprinkling  of  soot  or  charcoal 
dust ;  after  that  a  thin  layer  of  the  rougher  parts  of  the 
compost,  and  finally  a  layer  of  soil.  Then  turn  the  plant 
out  of  the  old  pot,  pick  out  the  old  drainage,  and  loosen 
part  of  the  old  roots,  spreading  them  over  the  new  soil  as 
much  as  possible.  Then  see  that  the  collar  of  the  roots  is 
just  below  the  rim  of  the  pot,  and  fill  in  around  the  ball 
with  the  fresh  soil,  pressing  it  down  gently  as  it  is  put  in. 
When  the  pot  is  full,  give  it  a  smart  stroke  or  two  upon  the 
bench  to  settle  the  soil ;  level  it  neatly,  leaving  it  about 
half  an  inch  below  the  rim  of  the  pot.  This  finishes  the 
potting.  Then  give  a  good  watering  of  tepid  water. 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.        93 

For  four  or  five  weeks,  while  new  roots  are  running  into 
the  fresh  soil,  they  will  not  need  a  large  supply  of  water ; 
but  when  the  roots  reach  the  sides  of  the  pots,  and  the 
leaves  and  shoots  are  advancing  in  growth,  then  water  will 
be  required  in  abundance. 

They  should  never  be  allowed  to  flag. 

After  a  hot,  sunny  day,  let  the  plants,  in  addition  to  the 
water  at  the  roots,  have  a  gentle  syringing.  Exercise  dis- 
cretion, however,  on  this  point. 

The  geranium  is  a  spring  and  summer  blooming  plant. 
It  is  very  difficult  to  obtain  a  flower  from  December  to 
April ;  therefore,  during  the  winter  it  should  be  kept  cool, 
and  moderately  dry. 

About  the  first  of  February  re-pot  the  plants,  give  more- 
heat,  sun,  and  water,  and  your  plants  will  bloom  profusely 
in  May. 

The  varieties  grown  only  for  their  leaves  may  have  more 
generous  culture  during  the  winter  months. 

VARIETIES. 

Ivy-leaved  geranium  (P.  lateripes),  is  a  pretty  trailing 
species,  with  ivy-shaped  leaves  and  purple  flowers  in  the 
summer.  There  is  also  a  variety  with  white  flowers.  It  is 


94        PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

a  pretty   window  plant,   and  always  does   well.     It  needs 
plenty  of  light,  sun,  and  generous  culture. 

The  varieties  of  horse-shoe  geraniums  (P.  zonale  hybrids'), 
are  all  good  window  flowers,  and  will  often  bloom  in  winter. 
The  following  are  the  best  old  varieties  :  — 

Scarlet.    Dazzle,   Tom  Thumb,  Defiance. 
Cerise.     Cerise  unique. 
Pink.    Rosa  mundi. 

.  White.    Boule  de  Neige,  Lady  Turner. 
Variegated  Leaved.    Flower  of  the  Day,  Golden  Chain,  Alma,  Bijou. 

These  latter  varieties  need  a  green-house  to  develop  the 
rich  colors  of  the  foliage,  yet  they  do  well  as  bedding  plants 
in  the  summer. 
*     P.  graveolens  is  the  common  rose  geranium. 

THE    VERBENA. 

There  are  few  plants  which  lend  more  beauty  to  the 
flower  garden  in  summer,  or  enliven  the  green-house  in 
the  winter  and  early  spring  months  in  a  greater  degree,  than 
the  verbena.  From  the  variety  of  colors,  the  rapidity  of 
propagation,  the  little  care  needed  to  bloom  the  plant  in  per- 
fection, and  the  abundance  of  blossoms,  it  is,  and  always 
must  remain,  a  universal  favorite. 


PLANTS  FOB  WINDOW  GARDENING.        95 

In  addition  to  these  advantages,  the  facility  with  which 
new  varieties  are  raised  from  seed,  render  it  a  favorite  with 
the  amateur;  and  in  no  collection  do  we  fail  to  find  the 
verbena,  in  some  of  its  many  varieties, 

It  is  a  difficult  task  to  prescribe  the  culture  of  a  plant  so 
well  known,  and  which  will  grow  and  nourish  under  such  a 
variety  of  circumstances,  and  in  such  different  situations. 
As  every  one  has  grown  verbenas,  each  has  his  own  peculiar 
mode  of  treatment,  if,  indeed,  a  flower  requiring  so  little 
care  can  be  said  to  have  peculiar  treatment. 

In  writing  of  a  plant,  from  which  seedlings  are  produced 
with  such  ease,  and  which  sports  into  such  an  infinite 
variety  of  colors  and  shades,  we  cannot  be  too  careful  in 
expressing  a  decided  opinion.  Every  year  new  seedlings 
are  "  brought  out,"  and  latterly  the  varieties  have  so  mul- 
tiplied that  it  is  very  difficult  to  choose  those  really  worthy 
of  cultivation  :  the  favorite  of  this  spring  may,  after  a  year's 
trial,  be  cast  aside  as  worthless,  for  it  may  not  be  found 
worthy  of  general  cultivation,  or  better  varieties  may  have 
been  originated. 

Our  verbena  was  introduced  into  England  from  Buenos 
Ayres,  where  it  is  indigenous,  by  Mr.  Hugh  Gumming,  an 
ardent  lover  of  nature,  about  the  year  1825. 


96  PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING. 

The  first,  and  for  a  long  time  the  only  variety  cultivated, 
was  Verbena  melindres,  or  chamcedrifolia ;  but  it  now 
appears  lost  among  the  new  and  superior  kinds  which  have 
been  raised  from  seed.  In  form,  it  has  been  repeatedly 
excelled,  but  its  creeping  habit  and  abundance  of  bloom 
must  always  recommend  it,  though  we  doubt  if  at  the 
present  time  it  can  be  obtained  at  any  of  our  green-houses, 
and  probably,  few  of  our  younger  cultivators  have  ever  seen 
this  once  popular  variety.  The  color  is  scarlet,  and  though 
perhaps  equalled,  can  never  be  excelled.  Many  other 
earlier  varieties  might  be  mentioned,  but,  although  interest- 
ing, it  would  too  much  extend  the  limits  of  this  article. 

Verbena  multifida,  with  lilac  purple  flowers,  was  intro- 
duced from  Peru  ;  Verbena  Tiveediana,  with  rose  crimson 
flowers,  from  Brazil;  and  from  these,  and  a  few  other 
varieties  and  seedlings,  have  sprung  all  the  numerous 
varieties,  many  hundred  in  number,  which  may  be  found  in 
extensive  collections.  The  credit  of  introducing  this  plant 
into  the  United  States  belongs  to  Robert  Buist,  of  Phila- 
delphia. About  the  year  1835,  from  seed  received  from 
Buenos  Ayres,  he  raised  the  first  white,  pink,  and  crimson 
verbenas.  The  plant  soon  became  generally  known,  and 
was  every  where  a  favorite ;  in  the  floral  world  it  caused 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.        97 

quite  an  excitement,  and  the  original  kinds  were  soon  sur- 
passed, in  every  respect,  by  newer  seminal  varieties. 

The  culture  of  the  verbena  is  very  simple.  The  plants 
will  bloom  with  very  little  care,  but  to  grow  them  in  perfec- 
tion requires  attention ;  of  thousands  of  plants  of  any  size, 
scarcely  one  is  a  fine  specimen.  Let  us,  beginning  in  early 
spring,  trace  the  plant,  as  generally  grown,  and  then  see 
how  much  a  little  care  might  increase  its  beauty. 

About  the  first  of  February,  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots 
are  taken  from  old  plants :  in  a  sandy  loam,  a  few  weeks, 
and  sometimes  a  few  days,  will  suffice  to  root  them ;  they 
are  then  potted  off  into  thumb  pots,  and,  if  placed  near  the 
glass,  will  soon  show  a  terminal  flower.  As  soon  as  the 
season  is  sufficiently  advanced,  these  young  plants  are  bed- 
ded out,  and,  in  favorable  seasons,  soon  form  a  conspicuous 
feature  in  the  flower  garden,  continuing  to  bloom  till  long 
after  the  early  frosts.  About  the  first  or  middle  of  Septem- 
ber, the  gardener  begins  to  re-pot  his  plants  for  winter,  and 
the  common  practice  is  to  take  a  runner,  which  has  rooted 
well  at  a  joint,  and,  after  suitable  pruning,  to  pot  it  foi 
winter  blooming  and  propagation.  Others,  again,  take  up 
the  old  roots,  while  others,  by  sinking  pots  in  their  verbena 
bed,  about  midsummer,  allowed  the  runners  to  root  directly 
9 


98  PLANTS    FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING. 

in  the  pots ;  the  pots  being  taken  up,  and  the  connection 
with  the  mother  plant  cut,  the  young  plant  receives  no 
injury  or  check.  But  this  mode  is  very  objectionable,  for 
two  reasons :  first,  the  loam  in  the  pots  is  apt  to  become 
sour  and  sodden;  and  again,  earthworms  often  enter  the 
pots,  and  prove  injurious  during  the  winter.  The  plants 
are  housed,  and,  for  a  long  time,  produce  no  flowers,  and 
are  any  thing  but  ornamental.  Soon  after  the  new  year, 
they  begin  to  grow  vigorously,  but  are  allowed  to  trail  care- 
lessly over  the  staging,  or  droop  from  some  hanging  shelf. 
No  care  or  attention  is  bestowed  upon  them,  except  to  give 
the  daily  .supply  of  water. 

The  days  grow  towards  spring.  Cuttings'  are  again  taken 
off ;  the  same  process  is  repeated  year  after  year  ;  and  thus 
one  of  our  loveliest  flowers,  which,  with  a  little  care,  might 
be  one  of  the  greatest  attractions  and  ornaments  of  our 
green-houses,  is  never  seen  in  perfection,  except  in  the 
garden. 

That  this  is  the  fact,  is  to  be  deplored ;  yet  the  remedy 
is  simple.  By  beginning  about  midsummer,  we  may  have 
verbenas  in  bloom  as  well  during  the  winter  as  the  spring 
months.  About  the  first  of  August,  or  earlier,  cuttings 
should  be  taken  from  desirable  varieties.  In  a  fortnight 


, 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.        99 

they  will  be  ready  to  transplant.  Pot  them  in  thumb  pots, 
and  re-pot  as  soon  as  the  roots  touch  the  sides  of  the  pot. 
Keep  them  in  vigorous  growth  by  affording  plenty  of  light 
and  air,  being  careful  they  never  suffer  from  want  of  water. 
Pinch  off  the  leading  shoots,  to  cause  all  axillary  buds  to 
break,  and  in  no  case  allow  them  to  bloom.  Train  the 
plant  in  any  form  desired,  but  be  careful  not  to  permit  it  to 
grow  too  straggling.  When  other  plants  are  housed, 
remove  your  verbenas  to  some  warm  shelf,  where  they  may 
have  the  morning  sun,  and  on  every  favorable  day  give 
plenty  of  air,  and  fumigate  well  to  destroy  green  aphis. 
Your  plants  will  soon  be  in  luxuriant  bloom,  long  before 
those  potted  in  the  common  way  have  shown  a  bud,  and 
will  continue  to  afford  an  abundance  of  flowers  until  late  in 
the  spring.  To  grow  verbenas  well  in  the  house  in  summer 
is  far  easier.  They  may  be  bloomed  in  pots  of  any  size, 
and  trained  in  almost  any  form,  the  only  requisites  being 
plenty  of  light  and  air,  careful  pruning,  and  means  to 
destroy  aphis  and  keep  off  mildew. 

One  great  fault  in  growing  verbenas  is  the  practice  of 
watering  too  copiously.  The  plant,  as  originally  found, 
grows  on  dry  hills ;  and  damp  not  only  produces  mildew, 
but  rots  the  roots,  and  thus  destroys  or  produces  disease  in 
the  plant, 


100  PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING. 

The  proper  soil  for  verbenas,  is  two  parts  of  loam,  two  of 
leaf  mould,  with  an  admixture  of  sand,  and  in  this  we  have 
found  them  grow  and  bloom  luxuriantly. 

Many  verbenas,  which  for  green-house  blooming  are 
unsurpassed,,  are  worthless  for  bedding  purposes  ;  the  petal 
of  the  flower  being  too  thin,  or  the  color  fading  or  changing. 
Again,  some  bloom  well  in  winter,  others  far  better  in  sum- 
mer ;  some  form  large  masses  and  flower  well,  others  are  of 
rambling  growth  and  poor  bloomers ;  some  of  creeping, 
others  of  more  upright  habit ;  while  a  few  possess  every 
desirable  quality ;  and  in  making  a  selection,  all  these  prop- 
erties are  to  be  considered. 

We  have  said  that  seedlings  were  produced  with  great 
ease.  The  verbena  seeds  well  where  the  plants  have  not 
been  too  long  propagated  by  cuttings.  A  long-continued 
propagation  by  cuttings  seems  to  diminish  the  power  of  the 
plants  to  produce  seed,  and,  as  a  general  rule,  the  further 
removed  a  plant  is  from  a  seedling,  the  less  the  chance  of 
its  perfecting  good  seed.  The  seeds  may  be  sown  in  a  hot- 
bed or  green-house,  early  in  spring,  and  the  plants,  when 
about  an  inch  and  a  half  high,  pricked  out  in  the  border ; 
it  is  a  good  plan  to  pinch  out  the  leading  shoot,  as  thus  the 
plants  branch  and  become  stronger ;  the  plants  grow 
"apidly,  and  soon  show  bloom. 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       101 

But  to  raise  a  seedling  is  one  thing,  to  raise  a  fine  seed- 
ling, a  far  different.  Of  many  hundred  raised  in  the  course 
of  the  last  few  years,  by  the  writer,  not  more  than  half  a 
dozen  have  been  worthy  of  preservation,  and  only  one  (and 
that  produced  by  chance)  really  a  first-class  flower. 

In  raising  seed,  much  may  be  done  to  insure  its  quality 
by  planting  fine  varieties  together,  and  allowing  them  to 
intertwine,  then  gathering  the  seed  from  these  plants.  No 
rule  can  be  laid  down  to  obtain  any  desired  color,  for  the 
seedlings  sport  infinitely.  We  can  only  approximate 
towards  definite  results ;  thus,  if  we  plant  Annie  (white) 
and  Robinson's  Defiance  (red)  together,  the  seedling  will  be 
likely  to  be  pink. 

The  flowers  of  the  verbena  are  of  every  color  and  shade, 
except  light  blue,  which  color  has  never  been  obtained.  A 
good  yellow  verbena  has  not  yet  been  produced.  There  is 
a  miserable  variety,  with  a  small  truss  of  dirty  yellow 
flowers.  The  writer,  some  years  since,  by  a  curious  process 
of  watering  and  fertilization  with  a  white  verbena,  obtained 
a  seedling,  which  proved,  on  blooming,  to  be  of  a  light  straw 
color ;  the  plant  was  weak  and  sickly,  and  died  before  cut- 
tings could  be  taken.  Since  that  time  he  has  tried  the 
experiment  often,  but  never  with  any  successful  result. 
9* 


102       PLANTS  FOE  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

The  qualities  of  a  first-class  verbena,  as  laid  down  by 
florists,  are  :  roundness  of  flower,  without  indenture,  notch, 
or  serrature ;  petals  thick,  flat,  bright  and  smooth ;  the 
plant  should  be  compact,  with  short,  strong  joints,  either 
distinctly  of  a  shrubby  habit,  or  a  close,  ground  creeper  or 
climber ;  the  trusses  of  bloom,  compact,  standing  out  from 
the  foliage,  the  flowers  meeting,  but  not  crowding  each 
other;  the  foliage  should  be  short,  broad,  bright,  and 
enough  to  hide  the  stalk ;  in  the  eyed  and  striped  varieties, 
the  colors  should  be  well  defined  and  lasting,  never  running 
into  each  other,  or  changing  in  the  sun. 

As  a  window  plant,  there  is  nothing  that  will  give  more 
bloom  than  a  verbena.  Let  it  be  trained  on  a  trellis,  and 
give  it  all  the  sun  possible ;  the  more  sun,  the  more  bloom. 
Pinch  the  shoots,  to  prevent  its  becoming  too  rambling,  and 
give  air  enough,  and  your  work  is  done. 

The  production  of  seedlings,  as  above  directed,  is  a  very 
pretty  amusement,  and  very  simple.  Seedlings  will  bloom 
in  three  months,  from  the  seed. 

It  only  remains  for  us  to  describe  some  of  the  best  vari- 
eties, both  old  and  new.  Those  called  first-class  flowers, 
can  be  recommended  for  general  culture,  while  many  others, 
though  very  distinct  and  beautiful,  are  valuable  only  in  a 


PLANTS  FOB  WINDOW  GARDENING.       103 

large  collection,  or  interesting  to  the  amateur.  We  have 
not  noticed  seedlings,  unless  they  have  been  proved  and 
shown  to  be  worthy  of  general  culture. 

GIANT  OF  BATTLES.  Flower  and  truss  large ;  habit 
good ;  foliage  large ;  color  dark  scarlet,  with  purplish  eye. 
A  good  variety. 

DRED.  Flower  medium  ;  habit  weak ;  a  good  bloomer, 
but  of  a  dull  purplish  lake  color.  Pretty  for  variety. 

ADMIRAL  DUNDAS.  Foliage  and  habit  good ;  color  vel- 
vety scarlet.  Fine. 

GENERAL  SIMPSON.  A  magnificent  variety  ;  color  scarlet, 
crimson ;  flower  and  truss  very  large ;  habit  very  strong ; 
by  far  the  best  of  its  color.  No  garden  should  be  with- 
out it. 

CELESTIAL.  A  strong  growing  variety,  the  leaves  often 
two  inches  across ;  truss  large,  forming  a  fine  head ;  color 
pink,  with  darker  eye  ;  very  fine. 

EVENING  STAR.  Color  dark  crimson,  with  well-defined 
white  eye ;  growth  small ;  very  fine  in  the  house,  and  one 
of  the  best  of  the  eyed  varieties  for  the  border. 

ROSY  GEM.  A  lovely  verbena ;  flower  and  foliage  of 
medium  size ;  color  rosy  lake,  with  light  eye  ;  fine  in  the 
house,  but  worthless  for  open  culture. 


104       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

BRILLIANT  DE  VAISE.  Growth  fine  ;  color  crimson  sca»- 
let ;  a  first-class  variety  ;  succeeds  equally  well  in  the  house 
and  garden,  though  a  late  bloomer. 

CLIMAX.     Light,  with  dark  eye  ;  good. 

CHAUVIEE.I.  Of  weak  habit;  color  dazzling  crimson, 
with  dark  eye ;  valuable  in  a  collection. 

DEFIANCE  (Robinson's).  A  fine  old  variety,  always 
popular,  and  .one  of  the  best  for  bedding ;  growth  strong ; 
color  dazzling  red. 

DEFIANCE  (Kurtz's).  Of  large,  strong  growth ;  color 
light  pink,  shading  to  a  dark  eye  ;  truss  very  large  and  flat ; 
fine. 

ETOILE  DE  VENUS.  Similar  to  the  last,  but  larger  and 
finer. 

ANNIE.  Habit  strong ;  foliage  medium ;  color  pure 
white ;  truss  large,  flat,  single  blooms  very  large ;  in  some 
situations  in  the  garden  it  has  been  very  poor,  in  others 
very  good  ;  a  damp,  peaty  soil  has  flowered  it  in  perfection, 
while  in  a  dry  or  sandy  place  the  trusses  have  been  small, 
the  growth  weak,  and  the  flowers  inclined  to  change  to  pink. 
In  the  green-house,  for  winter  flowering,  it  is  very  superior, 
being  a  constant  bloomer;  a  well-grown  plant  will  give 
more  bloom  than  two  of  any  other  variety  ;  superior. 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       105 

IMPERATRICE  ELIZABETH.  A  pretty  little  striped  variety, 
which  should  be  in  every  collection ;  truss  flat  and  small ; 
foliage  cut  and  fine ;  habit  creeping  ;  very  pretty  for  a  speci- 
men plant,  and  a  free  grower  in  the  garden. 

DEDHAM  BELLE.     A  good  pink,  free-flowering  variety. 

IPHIGENE.  Purple,  with  dark  eye ;  a  superior  old 
variety. 

STV  MARGARET.  An  old  popular  variety ;  color  crimson 
scarlet ;  truss  and  flower  good  ;  always  a  free  bloomer,  and 
well  worthy  of  cultivation. 

GLORY  OF  AMERICA.  A  first-class  verbena  for  the  gar- 
den ;  always  a  mass  of  bloom  ;  crimson. 

LORD  RAGLAN  (Banks' s).  Dark  crimson,  with  dark  eye  ; 
a  fine  flower ;  but  the  plant  is  of  slow  growth,  and  a  poor 
bloomer. 

LORD  RAGLAN  (De  Fosse's).  Light  pearl  color;  pecu- 
liar ;  good  for  spring  blooming. 

MADELINE  PARFUME.  Like  the  last ;  fine  for  the  garden, 
but  useless  in  the  green-house. 

MRS.  ARCHER  CLIVE.  A  first-class  variety ;  color  rich 
carmine,  shading  to  dark  eye ;  equally  fine  for  green-house 
or  open  culture. 

MRS.   HOLFORD.     A   fine  white ;    growth   strong ;    very 


106       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

fine  for  garden  blooming,  but  very  late  in  the  green-house ; 
superior. 

STRIPED  ECLIPSE.  An  old  variety,  of  very  rambling 
habit,  very  good,  but  now  little  cultivated. 

STANDARD  BEARER.  Rich  plum  color,  with  white  eye ; 
a  very  desirable  and  beautiful  variety. 

VICOMPTESSE  EMELYN.  Color  white,  shading  to  dark  ; 
well-defined  eye ;  a  free  flowerer ;  by  far  the  finest  of  its 
class;  does  not  propagate  easily. 

JENNY  LIND.     A  pretty  white  and  purple-eyed  variety. 

Verbenas  may  be  grown  to  advantage  in  the  garden, 
either  in  masses,  as  single  plants,  or  upon  rock-work  ;  many 
pretty  effects  may  be  produced  by  a  careful '  arrangement  of 
colors  ;  they  are  also  well  adapted  for  hanging  pots  and  for 
vases,  in  which  they  will  bloom  profusely. 

There  is  no  flower  which,  if  properly  grown,  will  better 
repay  the  care  required,  and  none  which  will  show  so  well 
with  but  little  attention,  and  we  trust  that  these  few 
remarks  may  lead  to  a  more  careful  cultivation  of  this  beau- 
tiful plant. 

THE    HELIOTROPE. 

This  plant  is  always  admired  for  its  fragrance,  and  will 
ever  be  a  favorite  for  window  culture. 


PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING.  107 

It  is  a  native  of  Peru,  and  has  been  in  our  gardens  since 
the  year  1757. 

The  details  of  culture  are  similar  to  those  prescribed  for 
the  verbena ;  the  soil  should  be  strong  loam,  with  a  little 
sand  and  manure. 

The  heliotrope  is  seldom  grown  as  well  as  it  should  be. 
It  should  have  frequent  re-pottings,  and  be  allowed  to  grow 
large.  We  have  seen  them  in  parlors,  in  large  tubs  on 
wheels,  and  eight  feet  high.  Such  plants  are  in  themselves 
bouquets  of  beauty,  being  always  covered  with  flowers. 
Train  the  main  stems  of  the  plant  to  a  trellis,  and  let  the 
branches  droop  naturally,  and  as  they  will  gracefully.  The 
plant  bears  the  knife  well,  and  breaks  freely,  so  it  can  be 
trained  into  any  shape. 

The  common  variety  is  H.  corymbosum,  then  the  oldest, 
H.  Peruvianum ;  H.  Volterianum  is  a  fine  dark  variety, 
.but  not  so  strong  growing. 

Florists'  catalogues  contain  many  varieties,  but  the  above 
are  the  best  for  general  culture. 

THE    SALVIA. 

This  plant  is  only  valuable  as  a  window  plant  in  summer 
and  early  autumn.  The  chief  variety  cultivated  is  the  Scarlet 


108       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

Mexican  Sage  (S.  splendens),  introduced  from  Mexico  about 
forty  years  ago.  It  is  a  rank  growing  shrub,  with  long, 
jointed  stalks,  crowned  with  rich,  scarlet  flowers.  The  best 
way  to  grow  it  is  to  set  the  plant  in  rich  soil  in  the  garden 
in  spring.  .  It  will  grow  vigorously.  About  the  last  of 
September  pot  it  (it  transplants  easily),  shade  it  for  a  few 
days,  then  remove  it  to  a  sunny  window,  where  it  will 
delight  you  with  its  brilliant  blossoms  for  two  months. 
Then  keep  it  cool  until  spring,  and  repeat  the  operation 
until  the  plant  becomes  so  large  as  to  be  unmanageable ; 
then  spring  cuttings  must  be  taken  off  and  rooted. 

The  proper  soil  is,  three  parts  loam,  one  leaf  mould, 
one  manure,  with  a  sprinkling  of  sand. 

Salvia  patens  is  an  exquisite  blue  flowered  variety.  It 
blooms  well  in  the  garden  in  summer,  and  the  fleshy  roots 
may  be  preserved  like  a  dahlia  through  the  winter. 

There  are  many  other  fine  varieties. 

THE    TROP^OLUM. 

This  flower,  from  its  earliest  discovery  and  introduction, 
has  been  a  popular  favorite.  As  year  by  year  newer  varieties 
have  been  discovered,  or  finer  seedlings  raised  from  old 
favorites,  it  has  steadily  advanced  in  favor,  till  now,  the 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       109 

rich  man's  choicest  green-house  and  the  poor  man's  garden 
alike  boast  some  of  the  varieties  of  this  beautiful  plant.  In 
the  limits  of  a  short  article,  like  the  present,  it  will  be 
impossible,  of  course,  to  give  a  detailed  description,  or  even 
to  mention  all  the  varieties  ;  many  are  only  desirable  in  a 
collection,  being  of  inferior  beauty ;  while  others  are  rare, 
or  of  difficult  culture,  and  therefore  found  only  in  the  green- 
houses of  amateurs. 

The  different  varieties  of  tropaeolum  divide  themselves 
into  three  distinct  classes.  First,  those  with  bulbous,  or 
rather  tuberous  roots,  such  as  Tropceolum  azureum  and 
others.  Second,  those  with  large,  round  leaves,  and  large 
showy,  often  coarse,  flowers,  as  the  various  varieties  of  Tro- 
pceolum majus.  Third,  those  with  small,  delicate,  regu- 
larly-formed flowers,  with  smaller  leaves,  and  more  of  climb- 
ing rather  than  trailing  habit,  such  as  T.  Lobbianum. 
We  are  aware  that  this  division  is  imperfect;  that  some 
varieties  partake  of  the  characteristics  of  more  than  one 
class,  and  that  others  are  with  difficulty  included  in  any  of 
the  three  ;  and  to  any  one  acquainted  with  all  the  different 
varieties,  the  difficulty  of  classification  will  be  at  once 
apparent.  We  shall,  therefore,  only  attempt  this  general 
division  ;  leaving  a  particular  description  to  be  given  when 
10 


110 


PLANTS  FOB  WINDOW  GARDENING. 


we  treat  of  each  variety.  The  soil  to  be  used  in  the  culture 
of  the  tropseolum  is,  for  the  bulbous  varieties,  leaf-mould 
and  peat,  with  an  admixture  of  fine  sand ;  for  the  other 
classes,  an  addition  of  more  sand  is  to  be  advised,  as  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  enrich  the  soil  too  highly,  for  in  a  rich 
soil,  with  plenty  of  room  to  develop  the  roots,  the  plants  are 
apt  to  run  all  to  leaves.  This  may  be  prevented  in  two 
ways,  either  by  giving  a  poor  soil,  or  by  allowing  the  roots 
to  become  "  pot-bound,"  and  nourishing  the  plant  by  slight 
waterings  of  liquid  manure  ;  they  generally  fail  to  give 
satisfaction  if  the  soil  is  close,  heavy,  and  binding.  All 
the  varieties,  we  believe,  are  readily  propagated  by  cuttings, 
and  many  produce  seed  in  abundance.  Some  succeed  better 
if  allowed  to  trail  on  the  ground ;  others  are  so  delicate  as 
to  need  constant  attention  and  careful  training.  Some  are 
hardy  in  England,  though  to  our  knowledge  none  have  ever 
been  able  to  survive  our  severe  winters  in  the  open  ground, 
or  protected  in  frames.  All  the  varieties  are  of  the  most 
rapid  growth,  and  are  mostly  free  flowerers ;  none  are  desti- 
tute of  some  beauty,  while  the  greater  number  are  remark- 
able for  the  combinations  of  dazzling  colors  which  they 
afford.  The  prevailing  color  is  yellow  in  its  different 
shades ;  next,  red ;  then  dark ;  and  lastly,  a  most  extraor- 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       Ill 

dinary  fact,  which  puzzled  the  botanists,  a  beautiful  blue. 
It  had  been  asserted  and  argued,  with  great  show  of  reason, 
that  a  flower,  of  which  all  the  known  varieties,  or  the  gen- 
eral types,  were  of  red,  yellow,  or  cognate  colors,  could,  by 
no  possibility,  be  found  related  to  a  plant  with  blue  flowers, 
or  could  there  be  a  blue  flowering  plant  in  the  same  class. 
The  discovery  of  a  blue  tropaeolum,  in  1844,  completely 
refuted  this  theory.  In  the  treatment  of  the  tropaeolum,  it 
is  essential  for  the  good  health  of  the  plants  that  they 
should  enjoy  plenty  of  light  and  air ;  without  this,  they  can- 
not fail  to  become  sickly  or  unsightly  from  faded  leaves  and 
small  flowers.  A  supply  of  water  should  be  given  with  the 
syringe,  overhead,  occasionally,  which  will  conduce  to  the 
vigor  of  the  plant,  and  destroy  the  red  spider,  which  some- 
times attacks  the  leaves.  The  plant,  in  all  its  varieties,  is 
remarkably  free  from  disease  or  insects ;  we  have  occasion- 
ally had  the  more  delicate  varieties  troubled  by  green  fly, 
and  by  mealy  bug,  but  very  little  care  will  prevent  this. 
The  chief  danger  seems  to  lie  in  the  decaying  of  the  roots 
by  over-watering  when  in  growth,  or  by  not  withholding 
water  when  they  are  in  a  state  of  rest.  These  remarks,  of 
course,  apply  only  to  the  bulbous  varieties.  Sometimes  we 
have  known  the  roots  of  the  summer-blooming  varieties  to 


112       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

be  attacked  by  the  root  aphis,  but  this  is  unfrequent.  The 
foliage  is  of  too  fiery  a  taste  to  be  subject  to  the  attacks  of 
insects. 

With  these  few  remarks  we  will  proceed  to  the  descrip- 
tion of  the  different  varieties,  noting  any  peculiarity  in  the 
habits  of  each,  or  any  peculiar  mode  of  culture  which  may 
be  best  adapted  to  its  nature. 

The  oldest  and  best  known  variety  is  TROP^EOLTIM  MAJTJS, 
the  common  nasturtium  of  our  gardens  —  a  native  of  Peru, 
but  very  early  introduced.  This  occurs  in  a  variety  of 
colors,  and  under  a  variety  of  names.  The  colors  are 
chiefly  red,  yellow,  very  dark,  and  all  the  intermediate 
shades ;  or,  again,  red  upon  yellow  in  .spots,  shadings, 
stripes,  or  bands,  or  yellow  upon  red  or  dark  ground. 
Scarce  two  flowers,  unless  self-colored,  will  be  found  alike, 
and  there  is  no  prettier  sight  than  a  flower  bed  filled  with 
this  variety,  the  various  colored  flowers  contrasting  finely 
with  the  large  round  leaves.  At  any  seed  store,  varieties 
may  be  obtained ;  and  by  a  little  care  in  planting  the  seeds, 
a  beautiful  effect  may  be  produced.  This  species  is  of  the 
easiest  culture,  and  will  grow  almost  without  care  ;  it  is 
well  adapted  for  covering  rock-work,  or  any  unsightly  spot, 
producing  from  the  latter  part  of  June  until  •  killed  by  the 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       113 

frost,  a  constant  succession  of  brilliant  flowers  and  orna- 
mental foliage.  All  the  varieties  of  this  species  are  annual, 
and  are  propagated  either  by  seeds,  which  are  freely  pro- 
duced, or  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood,  which  root  freely 
in  sand. 

TuoPuEOLUM  MAJUS  ATROSANGTJiNEUM  is  only  a  very  fine 
variety,  as  its  name  implies,  of  the  above.  It  was  intro- 
duced into  England  as  early  as  the  year  1684.  The 
required  soil  is  light  and  rich ;  it  flowers  freely  ;  increased 
by  seeds  and  cuttings. 

It  would  be  useless  to  attempt  a  description  of  the 
varieties  of  Tropceolum  majus  •  so  constantly  do  they 
change,  that  each  year,  as  newer  seedlings  are  produced, 
the  older  are  forgotten  and  lost.  All  are  well  worthy  of 
cultivation,  and  some  of  the  varieties  should  be  in  every 
garden.  We  have  seen  a  double  variety,  but  it  was  evi- 
dently a  mere  sport,  which  was  only  propagated  and  pre- 
served as  a  curiosity  in  a  collection ;  the  colors  were  con- 
fused, and  the  blossom  destitute  of  beauty. 

We  pass  now  to  the  varieties  of  Tropceolum  minus,  being 
those  comprised  in  our  last  class,  and  seemingly  only 
reduced  specimens  of  Tropceolum  majus.  We  have  seen  it 
stated  that  this  variety  was  introduced  before  Tropceolum 


114       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

majus,  but  we  believe  the  best  authorities  agree  on  the 
latter  being  the  oldest  known  variety.  Be  this  as  it  may, 
both  were  known  in  Europe  at  a  very  early  period.  The 
plants  of  Tropceolum  minus,  and  its  varieties,  may  always 
be  distinguished  from  those  of  Tropceolum  majus,  and  its 
varieties,  by  the  leaves ;  in  the  former,  the  nerves  of  the 
leaves  always  end  in  a  point,  which  is  never  the  case  with 
those  of  the  latter. 

TEOP^EOLTJM  LOBBIANUM,  sometimes  called  T.  peltoplw- 
rum.  One  of  the  very  finest ;  first  collected  by  Mr.  .Lobb, 
in  Columbia.  A  rampant  grower,  and  free  flowerer  in  the 
green-house ;  color  of  flowers,  orange  scarlet.  The  tem- 
perature of  the  house  to  bloom  it  well,  should  be  kept 
about  fifty  degrees ;  a  slight  watering  of  liquid  manure  should 
occasionally  be  given.  It  does  not  succeed  well  with  us  in 
the  open  border ;  our  summers  are  too  short,  and  the  plants 
are  apt  to  be  nipped  by  the  frost  just  as  they  are  fully  set 
with  flower  buds  ;  it  strikes  freely  from  cuttings,  and  pro- 
duces seed  sparingly.  Most  of  our  fine,  new  varieties  are 
probably  hybrids  between  this  and  the  following. 

TKOP^EOLITM  PULCHERRIMUM.  Like  the  last,  a  rampant 
grower  ;  color  of  flowers,  bright  yellow,  with  starry  rays  of 
orange  scarlet  at  the  base  of  the  petal ;  a  free  flowerer  in 
the  green-house.  Culture  like  the  last. 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       115 

TROPJEOLTJM  SMITHII.  A  brilliant  red  variety,  a  native 
of  the  high  mountains  of  Columbia  ;  treat  as  T.  majus ; 
will  bloom  well  in  the  open  border. 

TROPJEOLUM  RANDII.  A  very  fine  seedling  of  Mr. 
Joseph  Breck's  ;  a  very  vigorous  grower  ;  the  writer  has,  in 
one  summer,  had  one  side  of  a  large  green-house  covered  by 
a  small  plant.  This  variety  has  the  desirable  property  of 
blooming  equally  well  as  a  border  plant  in  the  summer  and 
in  the  green-house  in  winter.  The  color  of  the  flower  is 
brilliant  yellow ;  the  base  of  each  petal  marked  with  a 
round  black  spot ;  the  flowers  are  often  veined  with  purplish 
red,. sometimes  very  deeply,  and,  from  a  large  plant,  often 
dozens  of  bloss.oms,  all  of  different  shades,  may  be  gathered; 
this  is  particularly  the  case  in  the  green-house ;  *in  the  bor- 
der, the  colors  are  more  constant.  This  is  probably  from 
its  abundant  flowers  and  free  habit,  the  most  popular 
variety  of  its  color,  among  gardeners  for  bouquet  purposes, 
and,  though  of  comparatively  recent  introduction,  is  very 
widely  disseminated.  Propagated  by  cuttings ;  produces 
seed  sparingly. 

TROPJEOLTJM  PEKIGKINTIM,  ADUNCTTM,  or  CAISTAKIENSE, 
commonly  known  as  canary-bird  flower.  A  very  lovely  and 
popular  variety  ;  grows  about  ter  feet  high,  and  blooms  well 


116       PLANTS  FOB  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

if  the  soil  is  not  too  rich.  It  is  commonly  cultivated  as  a 
summer  border  plant,  but  will  bloom  well  in  the  green- 
house. To  this  end,  plants  should  be  struck  during  the 
summer,  and  grown  with  plenty  of  light  and  air ;  let  the 
soil  be  loam,  and  well  rotted  manure,  with  a  little  sand ; 
do  not  give  the  roots  too  much  pot  room,  and  water  occa- 
sionally with  liquid  manure.  Plants  may  also  be  raised 
from  seed,  but  they  flower  less  freely  than  those  struck  from 
cuttings.  This  lovely  variety  is  too  well  known  to  need 
description. 

We  have  been  thus  diffuse  in  treating  of  this  plant, 
because  it  is  the  best  climbing  window  plant  we  have. 
Give  it  sun,  and  it  will  be  a  mass  of  bloom  all  winter.  A 
pretty  way'is  to  train  it  up  the  side  and  across  the  window 
on  strings.  Do  not,  however,  give  it  a  very  large  pot,  or  it 
will  all  run  to  leaves.  It  should  also  have  a  sandy  soil. 


....    All  Eden  bright, 

With  these,  her  holy  offspring,  creations  of  the  light ; 
As  though  some  gentle  angel,  commissioned  love  to  bear, 
Had  wandered  o'er  the  greensward,  and  left  her  footprints 
there. 


CHAPTER    V. 


PLANTS   FOR  WINDOW   GARDENING,    CONTINUED. 


ROSES.  CHINA  ROSE:  History.  — Description.  — Soil.— Pruning-.  — Wa- 
tering. —  Varieties.  TEA  ROSE  :  History.  —  Culture.  —  Varieties. 
BOURBON  ROSES:  History.— Culture.— Varieties.  PINKS:  Indian 
Pink.  —  Carnation.— Difference  between  Carnation  and  Picotee.— Classes. 
— •  Soil.  —  Potting.  —  Care  of  Flowers.  —  Culture  out  of  doors.  —  Prop- 

(117) 


118       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 


agation.  —  Layers.  —  Pipings.  —  List  of  Carnations  and  Picotees.  FUCH- 
SIAS :  History.  —  Growth.  —  How  to  direct  it.  —  Wintering.  —  Soil.  — 
Varieties. 


i  N    continuing  our  list  of  plants  adapt- 
ed for  window   gardening,  we  come 
to  the    queen  of  flowers,  the  Rose. 
A  book,  rather  than  a  portion  of 
a  chapter,  should  be  devoted  to  this 
flower ;  but  as  our  space  is  limited,  we  must 
with   a  word,  dismiss  the  large  divisions   of 
June,    Hardy    or    Hybrid    Perpetuals,    Pro- 
vence, Damask,  Galic,  Moss,  Climbing,  Austrian, 
Noisette,  and  Banksian  Roses,  each  of  which  would  require 
a    separate    treatise,  and   confine   ourselves  to    the    China, 
Bourbon,  and  Tea  families. 

Many  of  the  others  are  of  great  value  for  the  green- 
house, some  being,  in  our  climate,  purely  green-house 
roses,  and  others  being  invaluable  for  forcing ;  but  none 
succeed  with  parlor  culture,  though  many  are  well  known 
in  the  garden,  and  may  claim  more  than  a  passing  mention 
when  we  come  to  the  concluding  portion  of  our  book, 
the  Flower  Garden  and  Shrubbery. 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       119 

CHINA  ROSE. 

And,  first,  the  China  rose.  While  treating  of  paren- 
tage, we  may  also  include  the  tea  rose,  which,  with  the 
China,  comes  from  the  same  ancestor,  the  Rosa  Indica  and 
its  varieties.  From  this  stock  come  all  the  China  and  tea- 
scented  roses,  which,  by  skilful  hybridization,  are  now  so 
multiplied  that  already  their  name  is  legion.  Prop- 
erly speaking,  the  three  roses  which  are  the  oldest,  and 
may  be  considered  parents  of  the  race,  are  Rosa  Indica, 
the  common  Chinese  rose,  R.  semperflorens,  the  crimson  or 
sanguinea  rose,  and  JR.  odorata,  the  Chinese  or  sweet- 
scented  tea  rose. 

The  China  rose  and  its  hybrids  are  usually  stout  growing, 
and  sometimes  of  a  close,  twiggy  habit.  With  us  they 
will  not  endure  the  winter  without  protection,  but  south  of 
Baltimore,  stand  out  uninjured. 

They  are  the  common  rose  of  window  gardening,  and 
are  known  as  "  monthly  roses."  The  colors  vary  from 
white  to  deep  crimson  or  red,  running  through  all  the 
shades  of  blush  and  pink. 

They  are  often  exposed  for  sale  in  early  spring  at  the 
corners  of  streets  and  in  the  market  places,  every  little 


120  '      PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

shoot  being  crowned  with  a  bud  or  flower.  The  foliage  is 
generally  smooth,  glossy,  and  fine  cut,  clothing  every  little 
twig,  and  of  a  lively,  fresh  appearance. 

It  will  survive  almost  any  treatment,  and  will  live  if  but 
a  ray  of  sunlight  can  reach  it.  It  is  the  poor  man's  friend, 
and  clings  to  him  in  every  vicissitude ;  yet,  while  possess- 
ing adaptability  to  circumstances  in  a  remarkable  degree, 
no  plant  will  better  repay  care  and  attention.  Cleanliness, 
washing,  and  syringing  are  essential  to  good  health ;  give 
plenty  of  light,  and  it  will  repay  you  by  abundance  of 
bloom.  Though  as  its  common  names  (daily  or  monthly 
rose)  imply,  it  will  not  Uoom  every  day,  yet  there  will  sel- 
dom be  a  day  when  it  will  not  have  a  flower  or  a  bud 
upon  it.  It  will  ask  you,  too,  for  an  occasional  smoking ; 
for  the  green  fly  is  very  fond  of  the  delicate  juices  of  its 
young  shoots,  and  this  indeed  of  all  roses. 
*  Do  not  give  it  too  large  a  pot.  Roses  will  do  well  in 
smaller  pots,  in  proportion  to  their  size,  than  almost  any 

other  plant. 

SOIL. 

• 
Yet  the  soil  must  be  rich  and  well  mixed.     It  should 

consist  of  four  parts  of  the  richest  black  loam,  or  leaf 
mould,  two  parts  of  well-rotted  manure,  with  a  slight  ad- 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       121 

mixture  of  fine  sand.     This  soil  should  not  be  sifted,  but 
lumpy,  yet  well  mixed  together. 

In  potting,  as  much  of  the  old  soil  as  can  be  taken  off 
without  breaking  the  roots,  should  be  removed,  and  the 
plant  set  just  up  to  the  neck  or  collar,  on  the  new  soil ; 
settle  the  earth  well  around  the  plant,  and  give  a  gentle 
watering  from  the  fine  rose  of  a  watering  pot.  Pruning 
should  be  done  as  required ;  the  eyes  will  break  any  where ; 
therefore,  whenever  a  branch  becomes  too  long  or  un- 
sightly, cut  it  in ;  there  need  be  no  fear  of  injuring  the 
plant. 

If  they  have  been  planted  out  in  the  garden  during  the 
summer,  on  removal  to  the  house  in  the  autumn  they  will 
need  a  severe  pruning.  Cut  off  the  young  wood  to  within 
a  few  inches  of  the  old  wood,  and  give  the  plants  a  little 
rest,  by  giving  less  water  and  little  heat ;  when  you  wish 
them  to  bloom,  bring  them  into  full  sunlight,  give  more  * 
heat,  and,  as  soon  as  the  young  branches  have  begun  to 
push,  give  plenty  of  water.  Every  eye  will  produce  a 
shoot,  crowned  with  one  or  more  buds ;  after  blooming, 
shorten  in  the  blooming  branches  about  one  half;  new  eyes 
will  push,  and  a  second  display  of  bloom  be  the  result.  In 
watering  roses,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  render  the  soil 
11 


122       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

cold  and  sodden ;  water  should  never  stand  round  the 
roots ;  frequent  stirring  of  the  surface  of  the  soil  is  very 
beneficial.  A  few  bits  of  charcoal,  broken  fine  and  mixed 
with  the  earth,  will  impart  the  richest  brilliancy  to  the 
flowers. 

The  following  list  of  China  roses  will  be  found  to  include 
the  best  old  varieties.  New  hybrids  are  constantly  pro- 
duced, and  all  of  this  class  make  good  window  plants. 
China  roses  are  called  also  "  Bengal ''  roses. 

List  of  China  Roses. 
% 

1.  Agrippina,  or   Cramoisi  Superieur.     Rich,  velvety   crimson,  very 

double. 

2.  La  Superbe.    Purple  crimson,  very  double,  flowers  always  opening 
well. 

3.  Eels  Blush.    A  profuse  bloomer ;  flowers  large  and  double,  resem- 
bling a  tea  rose. 

4.  Indica,  or  Common  Daily.     Dark  blush  or  rose  color  ;  free  grower 
and  profuse  bloomer.     This  is  the  common  "monthly  rose." 

5.  Indica  Alba.     A  white  variety  of  the  last,  of  more  slender  growth, 
but  double  and  free  flowering. 

6.  A  dwarf  form  of  JR.  Indica,  called  "  Fairy  Rose,"  Tom  Thumb, 
Lawrenceana,  is  a  pretty  little  miniature  rose,  very  double,  and  about  as 
large  as  a  dime  or  half  dime. 

7.  Mrs.  Bousanquet.     Creamy  blush,  very  fine;  by  some  classed  as  a 
Bourbon,  which  it  seems  to  be.     It  is  very  distinct  from  other  Chinas. 

8.  Semper flor ens,   or    " '  Sanguinca."     Very    double;    cupped;    rich 
crimson.    Every  where  grown  and  appreciated. 


PLANTS  FOB  WINDOW  GARDENING.       123 

9.  Jacksonia.    Bright  red,  very  double.  • 

10.  Louis  Philippe.    Dark  crimson;  globular. 

11.  Eugene  Hardy.    White,  changing  to  blush. 

12.  Eugene  Beauharnqi*.-  Bright    amaranth,  very    fine    form,    and 
fragrant. 

There  are  many  others  which  may  bo  found  in  florists' 
catalogues. 

For  one  rose  for  bloom,  choose  No.  8  ;  for  two,  Nos.  8 
and  3  ;  for  three,  Nos.  8,  3,  and  12 ;  for  four,  add  No.  4 ; 
for  five,  add  No.  2;  for  six,  No.  9  or  1. 

TEA    ROSES. 

The  original  rose  (JR.  odoratci)  was  only  introduced  about 
1812,  and  from  this  have  sprung  our  many  fine  varieties. 
The  treatment  required  is  identical  with  that  of  the  China 
rose ;  yet  a  richer  soil,  and  more  heat  and  light,  may  be 
afforded  to  advantage.  The  former  is  easily  done  by  in- 
creasing the  proportion  of  manure  in  potting. 

They  also  need  more  care,  and  are  not  so  patient  under 
neglect.  For  summer  bedding  in  the  garden,  they  are  un- 
surpassed. Usually  their  growth  is  more  delicate  and 
graceful  than  that  of  the  China  varieties. 

The  following  list  includes  some  of  the  best  varieties, 
which  may  be  relied  upon  for  window  or  garden  growth. 


124  PLANTS   FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

They   will   not   bear   our   winters   unprotected.     This  list 
may  be  multiplied  fourfold  from  catalogues :  — 

1.  Adam.    Bright  pink ;  large  and  cupped. 

2.  Comte  de  Paris.     Creamy  rose  ;  large  and  fine. 

3.  Caroline.    Bright,  rosy  pink  or  flesh-colored ;  large  and  very  fine. 

4.  Gloire  de  Dijon.    Yellow,  shaded  with  salmon  and  rose  ;  an  im- 
mense flower ;  very  full ;  not  always  opening  well  with  window  culture ; 
by  some,  considered  a  "  Bourbon." 

5.  Clara  Sylvain.    Pure  white  ;  double  ;  very  fragrant. 

6.  Yellow  Tea.    Pale  yellow  ;  long,  beautiful  bud ;  very  fine. 

7.  Elise  Sauvage.    Bright  yellow,  fading  to  white  ;  large  and  fine. 

8.  Madame  Desprez.    White  ;  very  fragrant. 

9.  Safrano.      Fawn   color   or   saffron ;    sometimes    rosy ;    not  very 
double,  but  fine  in  the  bud. 

10.  Triomphe  de  Luxembourg.    Buff  salmon,  shading  to  rose. 

11.  Souvenir  d'un  Ami.    Rose  and  salmon  ;  fine. 

12.  Goubault  Rose.    Yellow  centre  ;  large  and  fine. 

13.  Le  Pactole.    Lemon  yellow ;  very  fine. 

14.  Bougere.    Browzy,  rosy  lilac ;  a  strong  grower. 

15.  Odorata.    Fine  blush,  well  cupped. 

For  one  rose  of  this  class,  for  window  culture,  we  should  select 
No.  15 ;  then  add  No.  9,  No.  12,  No.  14,  No.  5,  No.  2,  No.  1. 

BOURBON    ROSES. 

The  union  of  the  Damask  Perpetual  with  the  China  rose 
has  produced  the  new  and  distinct  race  known  as  Bour- 
bons. They  have  a  peculiar  habit  and  foliage,  are  free, 
vigorous  growers,  and  much  hardier  than  the  China  rose. 
In  the  Middle  States,  they  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  will 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       125 

endure  our  winters  with  but  slight  protection.  As  bedders, 
they  are  unsurpassed,  and  bloom  during  the  whole  summer. 
They  are  usually  wintered  in  frames,  like  the  China .  and 
tea  roses.  For  window  gardening,  they  are  not  as  suitable 
as  those  species,  yet  their  beauty  renders  them  worthy  of  a 
permanent  place,  where  space  can  be  given,  and  for  green- 
house and  conservatory  blooming,  they  are  magnificent. 

Their  treatment  is  identical  with  that  of  the  species 
above  described. 

The  following  are  fine  varieties :  — 

Bouquet  de  Flore.    Light,  rosy  carmine. 

Dr.  Roque.     Purplish  crimson. 

Gloire  de  Dijon.     See  tea  roses. 

Madame  Desprez.     See  tea  roses. 

Dupetit  Thouars.    Bright  crimson  ;  very  showy. 

Leveson  Gower.    Deep  rose  ;  very  large. 

Souvenir  de  la  Mahnaison.    Pale  flesh  color,  very  large  and  fine. 

Queen  of  Bourbons.    Fawn-colored  blush  ;  a  free  bloomer. 

Sir  Joseph  Paxton.    Deep  rose  ;  very  fine. 

Paul  Joseph.     Purplish  violet. 

Hermosa.    Light  blush  or  rose  color ;  very  fine  form. 

George  Peabodi/.     Dark,  velvety  crimson. 

Mrs.  Bosanquct.     Pale  flesh  color ;  good  form  ;  very  fine. 

The  most    satisfactory  method   of   growing   roses  is  to 
build  a  small  pit  for  them.     Plant  them  out  in  a  rich  soil, 
and  they  will  bloom  summer  and  winter.     Very  little  heat 
11* 


126       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

is  required  to  winter  them  safely,  and  the  sashes  being 
entirely  removed  in  summer,  all  the  benefit  of  growth  in 
the  .  open  air  is  obtained.  On  the  approach  of  frosty 
nights,  the  sashes  are  put  on,  and  the  roses  bloom  all 

winter. 

THE    PINK. 

Next  to  the  rose,  this  is  a  favorite  flower,  and  as  a  win- 
dow plant,  does  equally  well  in  spring  and  summer. 

We  shall  at  once  dismiss  the  garden,  Indian,  and  florists' 
or  Paisley  pinks,  and  confine  ourselves  to  the  carnation  and 
picotee,  these  being  the  varieties  for  window  culture. 

Yet  a  word  for  the  double  crimson  Indian  pink.  It  is  a 
pretty  little  flower,  always  in  bloom,  and  only  needs  light 
and  a  rich  loam  to  make  it  a  beautiful  window  plant. 

The  best  way  to  procure  it  is  to  buy  seed ;  sow  it  in  the 
spring,  in  the  garden,  and  on  the  approach  of  frost,  pot 
the  plants  for  winter  blooming.  It  may  then  be  easily 
increased  by  slips  or  layering. 

The  carnation  pink  is  a  very  old  inhabitant  of  our  gar- 
dens. It  is  said  to  have  been  introduced  into  cultiva- 
tion from  Italy  or  Germany  before  1510. 

The  question  is  often  asked,  What  is  the  difference  be- 
tween a  carnation  and  a  picotee  ?  None,  botanically ;  it  is 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       127 

purely  a  florist's  distinction.  The  carnation  has  the  marks 
on  its  petals,  from  the  centre  to  the  edge,  in  flakes  or 
stripes  of  colors,  on  a  white  ground.  The  picotee  has  a 
white  or  yellow  ground,  the  edges  of  the  petals  being 
fringed  with  various  shades  of  red  and  purple. 

Carnations  are  divided  into  five  classes,  namely: 
1.  Scarlet  Bizarres ;  2.  Pink  or  Crimson  Bizarres ;  3.  Scar- 
let Flakes ;  4.  Rose  Flakes ;  5.  Purple  Flakes. 

Bizarre  is  derived  from  the  French,  meaning  odd  or 
irregular.  The  flowers  in  these  classes  have  three  colors, 
which  are  irregularly  placed  on  each  petal.  Scarlet  Bizarres 
have  that  color  predominating  over  the  purple  or  crimson  ; 
but  the  Pink  or  Crimson  Bizarres  have  more  of  these  colors 
than  the  Scarlet.  Scarlet  Flakes  are  simple  white  grounds, 
with  distinct  stripes  or  ribbons  of  scarlet.  Rose  and  Pur- 
ple Flakes  have  these  two  colors  upon  a  white  ground. 

Picotees  are  divided  into  seven  classes  :  1 .  Red,  heavy- 
edged  ;  2.  Red,  light-edged ;  3.  Rose,  heavy-edged ; 
4.  Rose,  light-edged ;  5.  Purple,  heavy-edged ;  6.  Purple, 
light-edged;  7.  Yellow  ground,  without  any  distinction  as 
to  the  breadth  of  the  edge  color. 

Pinks,  both  picotees  and  carnations,  are  of  little  use  as 
house  plants  until  well  into  the  spring;  if,  however,  they 


128       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

are  grown,  they  should  be  kept  cool,  and  rather  dry ;  there 
is  nothing  gained  by  trying  to  force  them.  The  best 
method  of  growing  them  is  in  the  open  border,  preserving 
them  in  a  cold  frame  through  the  winter.  If  grown  in 
pots,  they  are  much  more  difficult  of  management.  In  the 
open  border,  they  bloom  in  June,  July,  and  later,  and  are 
an  indispensable  ornament.  We  do  not  recommend  the 
pink  as  a  window  flower,  but  have  been  constrained  to 
include  it  in  our  list,  as  it  is  a  favorite  flower. 

The  rules  we  give  are  very  full,  and  apply  both  to  the 
window,  the  cold  frame,  and  the  garden ;  they  are  com- 
piled from  English  authorities,  and  possess  little  claim  to 
originality. 

PROPAGATION  AND  GENERAL  TREATMENT. 

Soil  for  Culture  in  Pots.  Get  the  turf  from  an  upland 
pasture ;  take  off  about  three  inches  thick,  and  keep  it  in 
a  heap  for  a  year,  to  cause  the  grass  roots  to  decay  and 
mellow  the  soil ;  chop  it,  and  turn  it  over  four  or  five  times 
during  the  year ;  it  will  be  in  finer  condition  for  use. 
During  this,  the  worms  and  grubs,  especially  wire  worms, 
should  be  picked  out,  for  it  is  frequently  the  case  that  the 
soil  best  adapted  to  the  carnation  contains  its  greatest 


PLANTS  FOB  WINDOW  GARDENING.       129 

enemy.  Before  being  used,  the  soil  should  be  passed 
through  a  coarse  sieve  or  screen,  and  the  fibre  rubbed 
through  with  the  soil.  The  soil  in  which  the  plants  are 
bloomed,  and  that  in  which  they  are  kept  in  small  pots 
through  the  winter,  should  be  different,  for  in  the  latter  they 
are  not  required  to  make  much  progress,  and  the  less  they 
are  excited  in  autumn  and  winter  the  better,  provided  they 
make  steady  progress  and  .preserve  their  health.  This  can 
only  be  secured  by  abstaining  from  the  use  of  stable  dung, 
using  pure  loam,  and  such  decayed  vegetable  matter  as  is 
afforded  by  the  grass  naturally  growing  in  loam  when  the 
turves  are  cut.  Neither  should  the  loam  be  too  adhesive, 
but  sufficiently  porous  to  allow  the  water  to  percolate 
freely ;  should  it  not  be  so  naturally,  a  little  sand  may  be 
used  to  lighten  it.  In  preparing  the  soil  for  blooming  the 
plants,  take  of  this  loam  three  parts,  well  decomposed  leaf 
mould  one  part,  thoroughly  rotted  cow  dung  one  part  (if 
this  cannot  be  obtained,  hot-bed  manure,  well  decomposed, 
in  fact,  reduced  to  a  fine,  black  mould,  may  be  substituted), 
and  of  sandy  peat,  one  part.  A  small  portion  of  old  lime 
rubbish,  slightly  sifted,  will  be  of  service  to  the  plant, 
mixed  among  the  compost.  Being  duly  mixed,  in  sufficient 
quantity,  let  it  be  brought  under  shelter  to  dry  some  time 
before  the  potting  season. 


130       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

On  receiving  the  plants  from  the  nursery,  if  in  the  fall, 
they  should  be  potted,  as  above,  in  four-inch  pots,  giving 
two  inches  of  crocks  at  the  bottom  for  drainage,  and  nearly 
filling  the  pot  with  the  earth,  but  highest  in  the  middle, 
and  spreading  the  roots  as  much  as  possible  all  around 
alike.  The  soil  is  only  just  to  cover  the  roots,  and  to  be 
pressed  gently  to  them,  and  in  this  state,  after  watering,  to 
settle  the  loam  about  their  roots,  they  should  be  placed  in  a 
common  garden  frame,  upon  a  hard  bottom,  into  which  the 
waste  water,  when  refreshed,  cannot  soak,  but  Math  a  very 
gentle  slope,  that  any  water  which  runs  through  the  pots 
may  run  away.  In  the  winter  management,  the  chief 
object  is,  to  give  all  the  air  they  can  have  in  mild  weather 
by  taking  the  lights  off;  to  give  them  water  very  seldom, 
and  never  till  they  absolutely  want  it.  If  to  be  grown  in 
pots,  .they  should  be  re-potted  early  in  twelve-inch  pots, 
two  or  three  plants  in  a  pot,  using  the  soil  above  directed. 
Let  there  be  at  least  three  inches  drainage.  In  putting 
them  in  those  large  pots,  let  the  ball  of  earth  be  turned 
out  whole,  rub  off  a  little  of  the  surface,  and,  after  having 
filled  the  large  pot  high  enough  with  the  compost,  place  the 
ball  so  that  the  collar  of  the  plant,  which  is  just  above  the 
surface  of  the  old  ball,  be  within  half  an  inch  of  the  edge 


PLANTS  FOB  WINDOW  GARDENING.       131 

of  the  pot ;  put  the  soil  around  it ;  press  it  down  between 
the  ball  and  the  side,  and  fill  the  whole  up  level  with  the 
collar  of  the  plant  and  the  edge  of  the  pot.  Let  them  all 
be  placed  in  a  sheltered  spot,  and  refreshed  with  water 
when  they  require  it,  which  will  be  more  or  less  frequently, 
according  as  the  season  be  dry  or  wet.  Let  each  pot  have 
a  stake  in  the  centre,  to  which  the  plants  may  be  closely 
tied  as  they  rise  up  for  bloom.  When  they  show  their 
buds,  remove  all  but  three,  and  the  flowers  will  be  the 
finer,  and  not  more  than  one  blooming  shoot  may  be  left  on 
each  plant.  When  the  buds  have  swollen,  and  are  about 
to  burst,  tie  a  piece  of  bass  matting  round  the  middle,  and 
carefully  open  the  calyx  down  to  the  tie,  at  all  the  divisions, 
as  the  flower  can  then  open  all  around  alike  ;  otherwise, 
they  frequently  burst  on  one  side,  and  it  is  then  difficult  to 
form  an  even  flower.  As  the  petals  develop  themselves, 
they  should  be  shaded  from  the  sun  and  rain,  either  of 
which  would  damage  the  flowers.  Culture  in  pots  is  sel- 
dom resorted  to  in  this  country,  unless  it  be  for  exhibition 
purposes ;  and  it  is  for  the  benefit  of  amateurs,  who  wish 
to  grow  them  for  that  purpose,  that  we  have  given  such 
minute  directions. 

Culture  in  Beds  and  the  Flower  Border.     This   is  the 


132       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

most  common  method  in  this  country,  culture  in  pots  being 
attended  with  more  trouble,  and  occupying  more  time,  than 
can  usually  be  given. 

They  succeed  admirably  in  any  good  garden  loam,  pro- 
vided it  is  well  drained ;  wet  or  moisture,  when  over 
abundant,  is  very  injurious.  The  soil  should  be  trenched 
to  the  depth  of  eighteen  inches  in  the  fall,  enriching  it  at 
the  same  time  with  leaf  mould  and  cow's  manure,  thor- 
oughly rotted ;  should  the  soil  be  heavy,  an  addition  of 
refuse  charcoal,  lime  rubbish,  or  sand,  will  be  beneficial, 
leaving  the  surface  rough,  that  the  frost  of  winter  may  act 
upon  it.  In  the  spring,  the  beds  should  be  again  thor- 
oughly spaded  to  the  depth  of  one  foot,  and  raked  smooth ; 
after  which  the  plants  should  be  turned  out  of  the  pots, 
leaving  the  ball  entire,  and  planted  two  feet  apart  each 
way.  The  after  treatment  may  be  the  same  as  recom- 
mended for  pot  culture. 

Projmgation.  By  layers  and  pipings,  for  increasing 
approved  sorts,  and  by  seed  for  the  production  of  new 
varieties. 

By  Layers.  The  time  for  performing  this  operation  is 
when  the  plants  are  in  full  bloom,  or  a  little  past.  The 
Bhoots  of  the  plant,  around  the  bottom,  should  then  be 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       133 

brought  down  to  the  ground,  and,  when  rooted,  separated 
from  their  parent.  The  materials  needed  for  layering  are  a 
sharp,  small  knife,  a  quantity  of  notched  pegs,  and  some 
finely-sifted  soil.  Choose  a  dull,  cloudy  day  on  which  to 
perform  this  work ;  or,  if  the  plants  are  in  pots,  they  may 
be  layered  in  any  weather.  Begin  by  trimming  off  the 
leaves  from  the  bottom  of  a  shoot,  leaving  the  two  upper- 
most on,  and  entire.  Trim  off  the  'lower  leaves  on  every 
shoot  before  layering  one,  because,  when  a  layer  is  tongued, 
it  is  easily  broken  off.  When  this  is  done,  take  hold  of 
the  shoot,  turn  it  up,  and  pass  the  knife  blade  through  the 
third  joint  upward,  commencing  the  cut  just  below  it ;  then 
reach  a  hooked  peg,  thrust  it  into  the  soil,  catching  hold, 
by  its  hook,  of  the  layer  as  it  descends,  and  press  it  gently 
down  to  the  soil.  Do  the  next  in  the  same  manner,  and 
so  on  until  every  shoot  is  layered,  then  cover  them  all  witi\ 
the  sifted  mould,  about  three  quarters  of  an  inch  deep,  and 

the  process  is  completed ;  then  give  a  slight  watering,  and 

i 
the  layers  require  no  further  care,  but  watering,  until  they 

are  rooted,  which  will  be  in  about  a  month  or  six  weeks. 
When  sufficiently  rooted,  pot  them  off  into  five-inch  pots, 
a  pair  in  each  ;  or,  if  your  space  is  limited,  and  the  layers 
small,  three  may  be  put  into  each  pot.  After  they  are 
12 


134       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

potted,  they  should  be  placed  under  glass,  in  a  cold  frame 
or  pit,  plenty  of  air  given  in  mild  weather,  and  shelter  from 
severe  frost,  when  it  occurs.  Very  little  water  is  required 
during  the  winter  months,  and  the  air  in  the  frames  should 
be  as  dry  as  possible.  Should  damp  prevail,  the  plants, 
some  fine  day,  should  be  taken  out,  and  a  coat  of  fine,  dry 
coal  ashes  spread  over  the  surface.  The  plants  should  then 
be  replaced  in  the  pit. 

By  Pipings.  Carnations  may  be  propagated  by  this 
mode,  where  there  is  the  convenience  of  a  gentle  hot-bed. 
It  is,  however,  not  so  safe  as  layering ;  but  when  there  are 
more  shoots  than  can  be  layered,  and  it  is  desirable  to 
propagate  largely,  the  superfluous  shoots  may  be  piped. 
Cut  off  the  lower  part  of  the  shoot,  up  to  the  third  joint, 
trim  off  the  lowest  pair  of  leaves,  and  pass  the  knife  just 
through  the  joint.  Prepare  a  pot,  by  draining  it,  and  filling 
it  with  the  compost  up  to  within  an  inch  of  the  top ;  fill 
that  inch  with  silver  sand,  water  it  gently  to  make  it  firm, 
and  then  insert  the  piping  all  around  it,  close  to  the  pot 
sides ;  place  them  in  a  gentle  hot-bed,  shading  from  the 
sun ;  watch  them  daily,  and  supply  water  when  the  sand 
becomes  dry.  When  they  are  rooted,  which  they  will 
show  by  sending  up  fresh  leaves,  pot  them  in  pairs, 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       135 

as    directed    for    layers,    and    treat    them    in    the     same 
manner. 

By  Seeds.  The  seeds  may  be  sown,  during  the  spring 
months,  in  boxes  or  pans  filled  with  the  same  description 
of  soil  as  before  recommended.  Let  the  surface  of  the  soil 
be  made  even,  and  the  seed,  evenly  scattered  over  it,  cover 
them  to  the  depth  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch  with  finely  sifted 
mould.  If  early  in  the  season,  the  pans  may  be  put  in  a 
moderate  hot-bed,  just  to  cause  the  seeds  to  germinate,  but 
must  not  be  long  kept  there  for  fear  of  weakening  and 
drawing  the  plants.  Without  artificial  heat,  the  seeds  may 
be  sown  in  May,  placing  the  pans  or  boxes  in  an  open,  airy 
part  of  the  garden,  but  shaded  from  the  sun,  at  least  from 
ten  in  the  morning  till  four  in  the  afternoon.  Moderate 
moisture  will  be  indispensable,  but  if  the  soil  be  kept  too 
wet,  the  plants  are  liable  to  damp  off,  or  to  be  otherwise 
injured.  When  the  plants  have  acquired  six  leaves,  and 
are  about  two  inches  high,  they  should  be  pricked  out  in 
rows  six  inches  apart,  keeping  them  well  watered  until  they 
have  taken  fresh  root.  About  the  beginning  of  October, 
they  should  be  potted  for  the  convenience  of  wintering. 
Plant  out  in  the  spring,  in  a  bed  prepared  as  before 
directed.  As  soon  as  the  blossoms  can  be  seen,  all  the 


136 


PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING. 


single  sorts  should  be  taken  up  and  thrown  away,  to  give 
the  double  ones  more  room  to  grow.  The  finer  blossoms 
ought  then  to  be  selected  for  layering  or  piping. 

The  following  list  comprises  a  few  of  the  varieties :  — 


CARNATIONS. 
Admiral  Curzon, 
Coriolanus, 
General  Simpson, 
King  of  Carnations, 
Falconbridge, 
Acca, 

Squire  Trow, 
Valentine, 
Benedict. 


PICOTEES. 
Esther, 
Prince  Albert, 
Amy  Robsart, 
Haidee, 
Ophelia, 
Princess  Royal, 
Lamia, 

Duke  of  Newcastle, 
Ganymede. 


THE    FUCHSIA. 

If  by  a  window  plant  we  mean  one  which  blooms  in 
winter,  then  the  Fuchsia  is  not  a  window  plant.  A  few 
solitary  blooms  may  be  produced  during  the  spring,  but  the 
summer  is  its  season  of  glory. 

As  a  pot  plant,  for  summer  blooming,  it  is  unsurpassed, 
being  very  floriferous,  of  brilliant  foliage,  and  symmetrical 
habit.  All  of  our  garden  varieties  are  hybrids,  from 
ancestors  introduced  from  South  America  and  Mexico. 
Strange  to  say,  there  is  a  New  Zealand  species  also.  The 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       137 

first,  F.  coccinea,  was  introduced  from  Chili,  just  before  the 
year  1800. 

The  plant  is  of  the  easiest  culture ;  the  growth  is  rapid, 
and  a  young  spring  cutting  will  make  a  large  plant  by 
autumn.  The  secret  of  growing  the  plant  is,  never  to  let 
it  stop  growing  until  you  have  it  of  the  desired  blooming 
size ;  keep  re-potting,  as  soon  as  the  roots  touch  the  pot, 
until  you  get  it  into  a  twelve-inch  pot,  which  is  large 
enough  for  the  window  blooming  of  a  fuchsia.  Give  plenty 
of  light  and  air ;  turn  the  plant  frequently,  lest  it  grow 
one-sided,  and  fumigate  when  needed  to  kill  green  fly. 
The  best  form  to  grow  "a  young  plant  is  the  pyramidal. 
Train  up  a  leading  shoot,  and  if  the  plant  is  supplied  with 
pot  room  and  plenty  of  light,  and  has  not  heat  enough  to 
draw  it  out  weak,  it  will  form  side  shoots  in  sufficient 
abundance  to  produce  a  handsome  outline,  the  branches 
being  allowed  to  take  their  own  pendent  form.  The  plant 
may  also  be  prettily  grown  on  a  flat  trellis.  The  best  place 
for  a  fuchsia  in  winter  is  a  dry  cellar,  free  from  frost, 
where  they  should  be  kept  nearly  dry.  About  the  first  of 
March  prune  back  all  the  side  shoots,  and  leave  only  the 
upright  stem ;  prune  in  the  roots  also,  and  re-pot  them  in 
as  small  a  pot  as  will  hold  the  roots ;  as  the  eyes  break, 
12* 


138  PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING. 

thin  out  those  which  are  not  needed,  leaving  enough  to 
give  plenty  of  side. branches.     Re-pot,  and  treat  as  above 

directed. 

SOIL. 

One  part  of  peat,  one  of  loam,  and  one  of  leaf  mould 
will  grow  them  well ;  thoroughly  mix  the  component  parts, 
and  break  it  rather  fine ;  be  careful  to  secure  good 

drainage.      . 

VARIETIES. 

Every  spring  gives  us  a  host  of  new  varieties,  most  of 
which  are  discarded  in  a  few  years.  The  white  corollaed 
varieties  are  generally  of  weak  growth,  and  not  adapted  for 
culture  out  of  the  green-house.  Those  with  a  double  co- 
rolla we  do  not  admire ;  the  multiplication  of  floral  leaves 
detracts  much  from  the  simple  beauty  of  the  flower ;  they 
are,  however,  valuable  in  a  collection,  and  very  showy. 

Fuchsia  coccinea  is  a  pretty  species,  with  purple  and 
white  sepals  and  corolla. 

Fuchsia  serratifolia,  a  species  with  scarlet  tube,  tipped 
with  green,  blooming  in  winter. 

There  are  some  twenty  other  species,  which  are  beautiful 
in  a  green-house,  but  valueless  for  window  growth. 

The  following  hybrid  varieties  are  all  fine :  — 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       139 

Venus  de  Medicis.  Tube  white,  sepals  blush  white,  corolla  deep  blue; 
fine  habit. 

Etoile  du  Nord.  Bright  scarlet  sepals  and  tube ;  corolla  black  violet, 
with  short,  reflexed  sepals. 

Souvenir  de  CJdswick.  Tube  and  sepals  rosy,  crimson,  violet;  co- 
rolla fine. 

Ajax.     A  fine,  dark  variety. 

Empress  Eugenie.     Crimson  sepals,  white  corolla. 

England's  Glory.    Fine  white  ;  scarlet  corolla. 

Globosa.     Scarlet;  purple  corolla. 

Glory.     Crimson  ;  violet  corolla. 

Lady  of  the  Lake.     Crimson  blush ;  white  corolla. 

Mrs.  Story.     Scarlet  sepals  ;  white  corolla. 

Wonderful.    Scarlet  tube  and  sepals  ;  violet  corolla. 

Queen  Victoria,  La  Crinoline,  Omar  Pasha,  Nil  Desperandum,  Duch- 
ess of  Lancaster,  Climax,  Guiding  Star,  Rose  of  Castile,  Roi  des  Blancs, 
Prince  Frederic  William,  are  all  fine  varieties. 


Bring  flowers 

They  speak  of  Hope  to  the  fainting  heart; 

With  a  voice  of  promise  they  come  and  part. 

They  sleep  in  dust  through  the  winter  hours  ; 

They  break  forth  in  glory!    Bring  flowers,  bright  flowers. 


CHAPTER    VI. 


PLANTS   FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING,  CONTINUED. 

MYRTLE  :  History.  —  Soil.—  Culture.—  Varieties.  ACH/ENIA  :  Ease  „! 
growing.  — Soil.  ABUTILON  :  Culture.  — Soil.  — Varieties.  THUNBER- 
GIA  :  Sowing.  —  Training.  —  Insects.  —  Soil.  —  Varieties.  ALOYSIA,  OB 
LEMON  VERBEXA :  Culture.  — Soil.  — Watering.  CALLAJ  Resting,  -s 
Blooming.  — Soil.  CUPHEA  :  Culture.— Potting. —  Soil.  CACTUS:  Dl 
visions  of  the  Family.  —  Cereus  >  Summer  Treatment.  —  Pruning.  —  Wa 


PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING. 


141 


tering.  —  Varieties  ofCereus.  —  Epiphyllum:  Soil.  — Varieties.  HYDRAN- 
GEA: Culture.  — Soil.  — Effect  of  Iron.  AGAPANTHUS:  Soil.—  Win- 
tering-.  —  Watering.  —  Varieties.  OLEANDER  :  Flowering.  —  Soil.  —  Va- 
rieties. PITTOSPORUM  :  Varieties.  — Soil.  JASMINE:  Soil.  —  Culture. 

—  Water.  —  Varieties.    CALCEOLARIA  :    Sowing.  —  After  Culture.  —  Soil. 
MAHERNIA:    Description.— Soil.  — Varieties.       PRIMULA:    Sowing.— 
Treatment.  — Soil.— Description.     SOLANUJM:     A  Parlor  Ornament.— 
Culture.  —  Soil.        LAURESTINUS  :     Description.  —  Washing.      HOYA  : 
Description.  — Flowering. —  Watering.     CHRYSANTHEMUMS  :     Culture. 

—  Watering.  —  Soil. —  Varieties.     BEGONIA  :    Varieties.  —  Situation.— 
Watering.  —  Soil. 

THE    MYRTLE. 

>YRTLES    are  natives  of  Europe,  New 
Holland,  and  China.     They  are  hard- 
Avooded,  evergreen  shrubs,  possessing 
a   peculiar,    agreeable    fragrance,   and 
have    always    been    favorites    for  parlor 
culture. 

The  soil  should  be  three  parts  loam, 
with  one  part  of  sand  and  one  of  leaf 
mould. 

They  do  not  require  very  large  pots,  and  flourish  well  in 
almost  any  situation. 

They  require  moderate  washing,  and  watering,  and  plenty 
of  light  and  air  during  the  growing  season,  which  is  in  sum- 
mer, \vhen  they  should  be  put  out  of  doors  in  a  shady  place, 


142  PLANTS   FOR   WINDOW   GARDENING. 

yet  not  under  the  drip  of  trees.  The  flowers  are  usually 
white,  and  produced  in  profusion  in  midsummer.  M.  corn- 
mums  is  the  common  plant  of  our  parlors,  of  which  there 
are  many  varieties,  with  small  and  large  leaves,  variegated 
foliage,  and  flowers  single  or  double. 

M.  tenuifolia  is  a  New  Holland  species  ;  a  fine  plant  for 
parlor  culture. 

M.  toment.osa  is  a  fine  Chinese  species,  with  purple 
flowers  changing  to  white,  so  that  flowers  of  many  shades 
are  seen  at  once  on  the  same  plant.  It  should  be  more 
generally  grown,  being  equally  hardy,  except  it  is  impatient 
of  exposure  to  the  hot  sun. 

ACELENIA. 

A.  malvaviscus  is  a  beautiful  parlor  plant,  symmetrical  in 
growth,  and  producing  its  brilliant,  scarlet  flowers  in  profu- 
sion at  the  end  of  every  branch.  These  flowers  are  suc- 
ceeded by  white  berries,  changing  to  bright  red,  which  alone 
would  make  the  plant  ornamental  did  it  not  always  display 
a  profusion  of  bloom. 

The  best  way  to  grow  the  plant  is  as  a  pyramid,  as  thus 
the  flowers  and  fruit  show  to  great  advantage.  Give  plenty 
*>f  snn  and  light,  turning  the  plant  frequently.  It  is  not 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       143 

subject  to  the  attacks  of  insects.     Soil,  two  parts  loam,  two 
leaf  mould,  with  a  slight  admixture  of  sand. 

ABTJTILON. 

This  is  a  race  of  shrubby,  green-house  plants,  well 
adapted  for  the  parlor. 

They  are  free  growers,  of  upright  habit,  and  unless  judi- 
ciously pruned,  will  soon  outgrow  their  quarters.  They 
are  natives  of  South  America  and  New  Holland. 

The  proper  soil  is,  two  parts  loam,  two  of  leaf  mould, 
and  one  of  sand.  If  the  soil  is  too  rich,  the  growth  will  be 
too  rapid  for  the  full  development  of  the  side  branches. 
Keep  the  plant  moderately  moist.  The  varieties  for  parlor 
culture  are,  — 

A.  venosum,  with  large  yellow  flowers  with  red  veins ;  A. 
JBedfordianum,  flowers  much  of  the  same  character. 

A.  striatum,  one  of  our  prettiest  window  plants ;  always 
in  bloom,  and  beautiful  from  its  profusion  of  pendulous, 
veined,  red  and  yellow  blossoms  all  winter. 

There  are  many  other  varieties,  some  with  white,  others 
with  red  flowers,  but  they  are  not  recommended  for  house 
plants. 


144  PLANTS   FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

THUNBERGIA. 

These  pretty  plants  are  usually  grown  as  annuals  with  us, 
for  summer  decoration  in  the  flower  garden,  but  they  also 
make  fine  window  plants.  For  this  purpose,  sow  the  seed 
in  August  in  pots ;  as  the  plants  grow,  transplant  one  to 
each  pot,  and  train  the  slender  shoots  on  a  neat  trellis. 
Give  plenty  of.  sun,  and  syringe  very  often,  for  the  plants  are 
very  subject  to  attacks  of  red  spider.  They  will  show 
bloom  about  the  middle  of  January,  and  produce  a  profusion 
during  the  winter  and  spring  months.  The  plants  will  show 
bud  very  early,  but  if  they  are  allowed  to  bloom,  growth 
will  stop  ;  therefore  it  is  best  to  pick  off  all  the  flower  buds 
until  the  plant  is  of  the  required  size,  when  they  may  be 
allowed  to  open. 

Cuttings  root  very  freely  in  sand,  under  a  bell  glass. 
The  soil  should  be,  one  part  turfy  loam,  one  part  peat,  one 
part  well-rotted  manure.  Water  moderately. 

The  varieties  are,  — 

T.  alata,  buff  yellow,  with  a  black  centre ;  T.  alata 
aurantia,  deep  orange,  with  black  centre ;  T.  alata  alia, 
white,  with  black  centre. 

There  are  also  some  superb  hot-house  species. 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.  145 

ALOYSIA,    OR    LEMON    VERBENA. 

A  half-hardy  deciduous  shrub,  from  Chili;  the  only  species 
is  A.  citriodora,  commonly  called  Lemon  Verbena.  It  is 
valuable  only  for  the  fragrance  of  the  leaves,  the  flowers 
being  small,  whitish  lilac,  and  of  little  beauty.  As  a  winter 
plant  it  is  of  no  value,  as  it  needs  a  season  of  rest,  which 
must  be  given  it  in  a  cellar  free  from  frost. 

The  best  treatment  is,  to  plant  it  out  in  spring  in  the 
flower  border,  where  it  will  make  vigorous  growth.  In  the 
fall,  before  the  first  frost,  remove  the  plant  with  a  ball  of 
earth  to  the  cellar.  In  spring,  trim  the  plant  into  a  neat 
shape,  and  re-plant  it.  If  grown  in  pots,  the  proper  soil  is, 
two  parts  of  loam,  two  of  leaf  mould,  and  a  slight  mixture 
of  sand.  While  the  plants  are  growing,  give  plenty  of 
water,  but  withhold  it  entirely  during  the  winter. 

CALLA. 

The  only  plant  of  this  genus,  worthy  of  cultivation,  is  the 
well-known  Calla  Lily  (Ricliardia  JEtliiopica}.  It  is  too 
familiar  to  our  readers  to  need,  description.  To  bloom  the 
plants  well,  they  should  have  a  season  of  rest,  which  may  be 
regulated  so  as  to  have  bloom  at  any  season,  if  we  have  sev- 
13 


146       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

eral  plants.  They  naturally  rest  after  the  blooming  season. 
When  they  again  begin  to  grow,  re-pot  them ;  if  a  plant 
with  a  single  stem  is  required,  remove  all  suckers,  other- 
wise they  will  do  no  harm  to  remain ;  but  the  plant  requir- 
ing frequent  re-pottings,  will  soon  become  so  large  as  to  be 
unmanageable. 

The  foliage  is  peculiarly  fine,  and  the  plant  is  worth 
xgrowing  for  this  alone. 

If  bloom  is  particularly  desired,  the  best  way  is  to  plant 
some  six  or  eight  roots  in  the  half  of  an  oil  cask.  Paint  it 
green,  and  put  on  two  iron  handles  ;  you  thus  have  a  very 
cheap,  pretty,  serviceable,  and  durable  tub.  Fill  this  with 
the  richest  loam,  and  set  the  plants,  the  largest  in  the  mid- 
dle, the  smaller  around  the  sides,  and  set  the  tub  on  the 
piazza  or  in  a  grass  plat.  The  plants  will  bloom  during  the 
summer  very  freely,  and  may  be  wintered  in  a  light  cellar 
without  difficulty. 

The  proper  soil  is  richest  loam  and  peat  well  mixed. 
When  growing,  you  cannot  give  the  plants  too  much  water. 
In  the  window,  if  the  plants  are  set  in  a  saucer  kept  con- 
stantly filled  with  water,  they  will  be  the  better  for  it.  In 
summer,  the  plant  will  grow  well,  and  flower  profusely  out 
of  doors  in  a  tank. 


PLANTS  FOB  WINDOW  GARDENING.  147 

CUPHEA. 

The  only  plant  of  this  family,  desirable  for  a  window 
plant,  is  the  little  Mexican  C.  ignea  or  platycentra.  This 
is  a  sparkling  little  gem  of  a  plant,  always  in  bloom.  Plant 
it  in  the  flower  border  in  summer,  re-pot  in  autumn,  and  all 
winter  it  will  gladden  you  by  a  profusion  of  its  bright  scar- 
let tubes  tipped  with  a  ring  of  black  and  white.  The  plant 
never  grows  above  a  foot  in  height,  and  is  just  suited  for 
the  window.  Soil,  about  three  parts  loam,  one  each  of  sand 
and  manure.  Water  freely,  but  do  not  allow  the  soil  to 
become  sodden. 

CACTUS. 

There  are  seven  families  of  Cacti,  containing  each  a  great 

n 
number  of  species.      Those  chiefly  grown  as  parlor  plants 

come  under  the  families  Cereus  and  EpiphyUum.  The  for- 
mer family  is  a  native  of  all  dry,  tropical  regions  of  the 
western  continent. 

The  soil  most  suitable  is,  two  parts  peat,  one  part  broken 
potsherds,  broken  coarse,  one  part  loam  or  old  mortar  rub- 
bish, and  one  part  manure ;  mix  these  well  together  and 
secure  good  drainage. 

During  the  summer,  the  plants  should  stand  out  of  doors 


148       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

in  a  sheltered  place,  from  the  time  they  have  done  flowering 
until  September.  Then  remove  them  to  the  house,  all  parts 
of  shoots  having  no  bloom  buds  (they  are  easily  seen  along 
the  leaves)  being  cut  back  to  just  beyond  the  buds.  The 
plants  should  be  confined  to  six  or  eight  strong  stems  ; 
while  these  are  in  good  health,  the  growth  of  shoots  from 
the  roots  is  not  to  be  encouraged. 

Give  the  plants  no  water  from  September  until  February  ; 
while  in  growth,  water  moderately.  They  bloom  from  May 
to  August. 

Some  of  the  varieties  are,  — 

C.  Speciosissimus.    Crimson  and  purple  flowers. 

C.  Flagelliformis.  Rose  flowers.  This  variety  should  be  allowed  to 
droop,  and  not  be  pruned. 

C.  Grandiflorus  is  the  night-blooming  Cereus;  flowers  yellowish 
white.  This  variety  will  not  bloom  until  it  is  old. 

C.  Maynatdi.     Deep  orange  red  flowers. 

C.  Triangularis.     Cream  color ;  immense  flower. 

All  varieties  will  do  well  as  window  plants.  The  first 
is  the  best  for  general  culture. 

We  now  come  to  the  latter  family,  Epiphyllum,  all 
natives  of  tropical  America.  This  branch  of  the  Cactus 
family  is  distinguished  by  flat  shoots,  and  leaves  without 
spines.  The  soil  and  treatment  is  identical  with  that  of  the 
Cereus.  The  best  varieties  are,  — 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       149 

E.  Akei-manni.      Fine  scarlet  flower. 
E.  Jenkinsonii.    Fine  scarlet  flower. 
E.  Speciosum.    Rosy  pink  flower. 
E.  Alatum.    White  flower. 

E.  Truncatum,  and  its  varieties,  with  scarlet,  rosy,  red,  violet,  and 
white  flowers. 

All  these  latter  varieties  are  drooping,  and  to  show  to 
advantage,  should  be  grafted  on  some  of  their  tall-growing 
Cereus  relations.  C.  speciosissimus  makes  the  best  stock. 

HYDRANGEA. 

This  is  only  a  summer  plant,  but -an  old  favorite.  One 
requisite  for  its  successful  culture  is  shade ;  if  grown  in  the 
sun,  the  leaves  become  browned  and  the  plant  does  poorly. 
With  us,  it  is  not  hardy  out  doors,  so  it  must  be  grown  in  a 
tub,  and  wintered  in  the  cellar.  The  flowers  are  produced 
on  the  shoots  of  the  previous  year.  It  requires  to  be  well 
grown  to  flower  profusely,  and  the  flowers  from  young  plants 
are  larger  than  those  on  plants  three  or  four  years  old. 

While  growing,  the  plants  should  have  a  good  supply  of 
water. 

Soil,   one  part  loam,  one  part  manure,   one  part  peat. 
The  color  of  the  flowers  is  pink,  but  if  iron  filings  be  mixed 
with  the  earth  they  will  become  blue. 
13* 


150       PLANTS  FOE  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

Besides  the  well  known  pink  variety  (H.  hortensis'),  there 
are  many  others  ;  of  these,  H.  japonica,  with  blue  and 
white  flowers,  is  desirable. 

AGAPANTHUS, 

Or  African  Lily.  A  showy  plant  for  summer  blooming, 
and  too  well  known  to  need  description.  Soil,  two  parts 
lop.:*!,  one  part  manure,  one  part  leaf  mould.  Well  grown 
it  is  a  noble  plant,  but  will  bear  much  ill-usage.  Treated 
as  recommended  for  the  calla  lily,  and  planted  in  a  tub,  it 
forms  a  fine  plant. 

Winter  in  a  dry,  light  cellar,  and  water  occasionally. 
Water  freely  while  growing. 

There  is  a  white  variety,  and  one  with  variegated  foliage ; 
both  desirable ;  a  native  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

OLEANDER. 

A  very  showy,  but  much  neglected  plant ;  too  well  known 
to  need  description.  To  bloom  them  in  perfection,  they 
need  a  stove,  and  yet  do  well  in  the  parlor  and  out  of  doors. 

Their  season  for  blooming  is  July,  yet  that  may  be 
changed,  and  bloom  produced  at  any  season.  They  flower 
freely  when  scarcely  a  foot  high,  but  will  grow  to  the  height 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING.       151 

ci  ten  or  fifteen  feet,  forming  splendid  trees  covered  with 
rose-colored,  white,  or  variegated  flowers. 

Give  them  plenty  of  pot  room  in  soil,  two  parts  loam,  two 
parts  peat,  one  part  well-rotted  manure.  Being  subject  to 
white  scale,  frequent  washings  are  desirable. 

They  may  be  wintered  in  a  light  cellar,  and  then  should 
be  but  little  watered ;  during  the  growing  and  blooming 
seasons,  water  should  be  abundantly  supplied. 

The  principal  varieties  are  double  rose  (Nereum  oleander 
splendens})  striata  pleno,  with  double  striped  flowers,  pur- 
purea,  dark  red,  and  as  many  as  fifty  named  varieties, 
all  good. 

PITTOSPORUM. 

This  is  an  old-fashioned  plant,  a  favorite  for  its  fragrant 
flowers  rather  than  for  any  beauty  of  foliage  or  blossom  ; 
the  former  is  dull  green,  the  latter  dirty  white. 

The  common  variety  (P.  Tolira)  is  a  native  of  New 
South  Wales,  and  in  England  is  a  hardy  wall  plant;  with  us 
it  is  a  parlor  plant,  blooming  from  February  to  May.  Soil, 
three  parts  loam,  with  one  each  of  leaf  mould,  sand,  and 
manure. 

Water  freely  while  in  bloom  and  growth.     During  the 


152       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

summer,  set  the  plant  in  a  sheltered  situation  out  of 
doors. 

The  leaves  need  frequent  washings,  to  keep  them  free 
from  dust. 

This  plant  will  thrive  with  very  little  sun. 

JASMINE. 

A  family  of  favorite  climbing  shrubs,  and  very  pretty  for 
window  culture,  alike  desirable  for  their  neat  foliage  and 
fragrant  flowers.  The  flowers  are  white  or  yellow,  and  pro- 
duced from  February  to  June,  or  later. 

The  soil  should  be  equal  parts  of  loam  and  peat,  with  a 
slight  admixture  of  sand.  The  only  insect  attacking  them 
is  scale,  which  a  little  care  in  washing  will  soon  remove. 
With  common  room  culture,  they  grow  to  a  large  size  and 
make  superb  plants. 

Water  should  be  rather  freely  given.  They  should  be 
trained  on  neat  trellises,  and  the  branches  allowed  to  droop. 
The  most  desirable  varieties  are,  — 

J.  Azoricum.    White  flowers  in  summer. 
J.  Odoratissimum.    Yellow  flowers  in  spring. 
J.  Multiflorum.    White  flowers  in  spring. 
J.  Nudiflorum.    Yellow  flowers  in  spring. 


PLANTS   FOR    WINDOW   GARDENING.  153 


CALCEOLARIA. 

The  best  way  to  grow  this  pretty  plant  is  by  raising  seed- 
lings. Sow  seeds  in  August,  in  light,  rich  loam  ;  trans- 
plant the  young  plants  to  separate  pots  ;  pinch  out  the  cen- 
tre of  the  plant,  and  continue  to  do  so  until  the  plant  is  of 
the  required  blooming  size.  As  the  roots  of  the  plant  touch 
the  pot,  re-pot  into  a  size  larger.  When  the  flower  stems 
push  up,  tie  them  neatly  to  sticks.  Be  careful  in  watering 
not  to  give  too  much,  or  your  plants  will  damp  off.  Give 
all  the  sun  and  air  possible,  and  keep  the  plants  as  close  to 
the  glass  as  you  can. 

The  proper  soil  is  three  parts  light,  rich  loam,  one  of  fine 
peat,  one  of  sand. 

The  shrubby  varieties  are  seldom  grown  as  window 
plants,  but  are  reserved  for  the  flower  garden.  Under  the 
treatment  given  above,  they  grow  and  bloom  well. 

MAHERNIA. 

This  is  a  lovely  flower  and  a  general  favorite,  always 
blooming,  and  always  attractive  with  its  fragrant  yellow 
bells. 

Its  tendency  is  to  grow  straggling,  therefore  it  is  best  to 


154       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

select  a  plant  with  a  straight  stem.  Tie  up  the  main  stem 
as  it  grows,  and  by  continued  pinching  restrain  the  too 
luxuriant  growth 

M.  odorata  is  the  variety  chiefly  grown.  M.  Hector  and 
Diana  are  pretty  orange  and  pink  varieties. 

Soil,  four  parts  loam,  one  of  sand,  one  of  manure.  Keep 
the  plants  moist,  but  not  wet,  and  give  as  much  sun  as  pos- 
sible. In  bloom  from  February  to  May. 

CHINESE    PRIMROSE. 

Both  the  single  and  double  varieties  of  this  plant  are 
pretty  for  window  gardening.  Sow  the  seed  in  July,  in  a 
fine  soil,  as  directed  for  calceolarias,  and  treat  the  plant  the 
same,  except  the  pinching.  By  January,  nice  little  bloom- 
ing plants  will  be  formed ;  give  them  sun  and  air  and  do 
not  allow  them  to  over-bloom,  as  they  are  apt  to  do. 

After  bloom  is  over,  set  them  out  of  doors  (about  June), 
and  on  no  account  allow  them  to  bloom  during  the  summer. 
Grow  them  well  until  autumn,  then  re-pot  in  blooming 
pots,  and  by  Christmas  they  will  begin  to  show  flower,  and 
keep  up  a  succession  until  spring. 

Soil,  one  part  turfy  loam,  one  part  well  decomposed  cow 
dung,  one  part  peat,  and  one  part  sand. 


PLANTS  FOB  WINDOW  GARDENING.       155 

Be  sure  the  pots  are  well  drained,  and  never  keep  the 
plants  very  wet.  The  colors  are  red,  rosy,  lilac,  white, 
striped,  and  mottled,  with  fringed  and  plain  edges. 

SOLANUM. 

The  only  plant  of  this  useful  family,  suitable  for  room 
decoration  on  account  of  its  flowers,  is  the  Solanum  jas- 
minoides,  a  pretty  climber,  with  dark  green  foliage,  and 
white  potato-like  flowers,  in  large  clusters. 

It  is  useful  to  climb  around  a  window  or  to  cover  a  trellis. 
It  is  a  rampant  grower,  subject  to  no  disease  or  insect 
attacks,  and  with  sun  and  air,  if  potted  in  a  soil  of  rich 
loam,  will  take  care  of  itself,  and  bloom  all  winter. 

SOLANUM    PSEUDOCAPSICUM. 

This  plant  is  the  common  Jerusalem  Cherry.  It  was 
introduced  from  Maderia  about  the  year  1596.  For  a 
showy  plant,  in  the  parlor  or  green-house,  it  has  no  equal, 
being  studded  with  bright,  red  berries,  about  the  size  of  a 
cherry,  during  the  whole  winter.  A  plant  now  before  us, 
only  two  years  old,  is  two  feet  high,  three  feet  through,  and 
bending  down  beneath  the  weight  of  fruit.  The  flowers 
are  produce^  in  June,  and  are  inconspicuous.  Sow  the 


156       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

seeds  in  a  pot  in  April ;  as  soon  as  the  weather  becomes 
warm,  transplant  to  a  rich,  sunny  border ;  the  plants  will 
grow  rapidly,  and  probably  be  in  fruit  the  next  winter ;  pot 
the  plants  before  the  frost,  and  winter  in  room. 

There  is  a  more  dwarf-growing  species  (S.  capiastricuni), 
with  orange  berries,  which  is  also  very  ornamental. 

A  strong  loam  is  the  proper  soil  for  all  plants  of  this 
family. 

THE    LAURESTINUS. 

This  plant,  hardy  in  England,  is  with  us  a  winter- 
blooming  parlor  ornament.  It  is  a  free-growing,  free- 
blooming  evergreen,  and  will  bear  much  hard  usage.  If 
cared  for,  however,  it  will  repay  the  attention.  The  flowers 
are  small,  white,  and  in  large,  flattened  panicles,  expanding 
from  February  to  May. 

The  proper  soil  is  a  mixture  of  four  parts  loam,  with  one 
each  of  sand,  leaf  mould,  and  manure.  The  pots  should  be 
large,  and  the  plants  be  freely  watered.  Dust  collecting  on 
the  foliage  injures  the  beauty  and  health  of  this  plant, 
therefore  frequent  washings  are  desirable.  There  are  many 
varieties,  some  of  which,  as  the  snow-ball  (Viburnum  op- 
ulus\  are  hardy  shrubs. 


PLANTS   FOE  WINDOW  GARDENING.  157 

HOYA,    OR    WAX    PLANT. 

A  showy  genus  of  stove  climbers,  of  which  one,  Hoya 
carnosa,  succeeds  well  with  parlor  culture.  It  is  a  climbing 
shrub,  the  leaves  dark  green  and  fleshy ;  the  flowers  are  of 
a  peculiar  waxy  appearance,  produced  in  umbels,  whitish, 
with  rose-colored  centre,  in  which  hangs  a  drop  of  limpid 
honey. 

Give  the  plant  a  large  pot,  and  a  compost  of  peat  and 
loam  in  equal  parts,  securing  good  drainage.  Give  as  much 
sunlight  and  heat  as  possible.  The  old  bloom  stalks 
should  not  be  removed,  as  they  put  out  flowers  year  after 
year.  Much  water  is  not  needed,  especially  when  the  plant 
is  not  growing.  This  beautiful  plant  is  a  native  of  tropical 
Asia,  and  is  one  of  the  few  stove  plants  that  will  adapt 
themselves  to  parlor  culture. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

These  plants  are  favorites  for  autumn  blooming,  and 
quite  a  treatise  might  be  written  on  their  cultivation,  since 
they  have  become  florists'  flowers.  A  few  hints  must,  how- 
ever, suffice. 

The  best  way  to  obtain  a  fine  specimen  is,  to  set  out  in 
14 


158       PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

the  garden  in  the  early  spring  a  small  plant ;  give  it  con' 
stant  attention  during  the  summer,  and  pinch  out  the  shoots 
so  as  to  make  lateral  branches.  About  the  first  of  Septem- 
ber let  it  set  for  bloom,  and  on  the  approach  of  frost,  pot  it 
and  remove.it  to  the  parlor.  It  will  bloom  for  two  months 
or  more.  Then  dry  it  off  for  the  winter  in  the  cellar,  and 
by  the  spring  it  will  furnish  you  with  plenty  of  young 
plants.  Water  should  be  liberally  supplied.  The  small- 
flowered,  Pompon,  varieties  are  very  desirable ;  the  larger 
flowers  are  best  seen  in  the  garden. 

The  proper  soil  is  loam  and  well-rotted  manure,  with  a 
little  silver  sand.  Waterings  of  liquid  manure  are  very 
beneficial  as  the  plants  are  showing  bloom.  •  The  following 
will  be  found  to  be  fine  kinds  :  — 

Pompone. 

Andromeda.     Cream  color.  Riguiqui.    Violet  plum. 

Nellie.     Creamy  pink.  Lady  Mayoress.    White. 

Miranda.    Bright  rose,  Salamon.    Rosy  carmine. 

Christiana.     Canary  yellow.  Canary  Bird.    Yellow. 

Mrs.  Dix.    Blush.  Miss  Talford.    White. 

Large-Flowered   Varieties. 

Alarm.     Crimson.  Prince  Albert.     Crimson  red. 

Little  Harry.    Golden  amber.  King  of  Yellows.    Yellow. 

Cassy.    Orange  and  buff.  Vesta.    White. 

Hermine.    Silver  white,  Annie  Salter.     Canary  yellow. 

Pearl.    Pearly  white.  Qzieen  of  England.    Blush. 


PLANTS   FOB   WINDOW   GARDENING.  159 


BEGONIA. 

The  only  two  species  of  this  ornamental  stove  plant  that 
do  well  in  the  parlor,  are  B.  incarnata,  and  fuchsioides. 
The  former  is  an  evergreen  shrub,  with  thick,  fleshy  stems, 
and  large,  drooping  clusters  of  pink  flowers  in  winter.  It 
shows  to  great  advantage  if  well  cared  for,  and  is  one  of  the 
best  window  plants.  The  latter  is  often  called  "  coral 
drop,"  and  resembling  the  former  somewhat  in  habit,  pro- 
duces at  all  seasons,  but  chiefly  in  summer,  its  pretty, 
drooping,  coral  flowers. 

Both  species  require  the  warmest  possible  situation,  and 
plenty  of  light  and  sun.  They  are  impatient  of  much 
water,  but  the  plants  should  never  be  allowed  to  droop. 
Good  drainage  is  indispensable.  The  whole  family  thrive 
in  a  compost  of  one  half  loam,  one  half  leaf  mould,  with  a 
slight  portion  of  sand. 


^rrri— -— is~  r 


CHAPTER    VII. 


CAPE    BULBS. 


THE  TXTA:  Soil.  —  Potting.  —  Drying1  off.  — Seedling's.  — Species.  — Vari- 
eties. THE  OXALIS:  Culture.  —  Soil.  —  Species.  THE  BABIANA:  De- 
scription. —  Culture.  —  Red  Spider.  —  Species.  THE  H.EMAXTHUSS 

(160) 


CAPE   BULBS. 


161 


Description.  —  Culture.  —  Species.  THE  AMARYLLIS  :  Description.  — 
Soil.  —  Species.  THE  LACHENALIA  :  Soil.  —  Potting.  —  Foliage.  —  Spe- 
cies. THE  SPARAXIS  :  Description.  —  Culture.  —  Species.  —  "Watering. 
THE  ANOMATHECA  :  Description.  —  Planting.  —  Resting.  —  Seedlings.  — 
Species.  THE  TRITONIA  :  Culture.  —  Species.  THE  HOMERIA  :  Soil. 
—  Culture.  —  Flowering.  —  Species.  THE  NERINE  :  Culture.  —  Soil.  — 
Species. 

HERE  is  no  finer  class  of  window 
plants-than  the  subjects  of  the  pres- 
ent chapter.  They  combine,  in  a  re- 
markable degree,  the  two  requisites 
of  easy  cultivation  and  floral  beauty. 

Yet  strange  it  is,  that  we  seldom  see  them, 

• 

except  in  the  green-house  or  conservatory,  in 
this  country,  while  in  England  they  are  pop- 
ular plants  for  home  adornment,  and  grown  both 
in  the  window  and  garden. 
Now,  the  inclemency  of  our  climate  debars  us  from 
blooming  these  floral  gems  in  the  garden ;  but,  as  a  com- 
pensation, our  winter  suns  bring  them  to  perfection  at  a 
season  when  the  earth  is  locked  with  frost,  and  out-door 
gardening  is  entirely  prevented. 

They  are  mostly  natives  of  Southern  Africa,  in  the 
region  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope ;  whence  their  horticul- 
tural name,  Cape  Bulbs.  From  the  nature  of  the  climate 


162  CAPE   BULBS. 

of  that  region,  it  is  obvious  that  the  bulbs  must  have  a 
season  of  rest.  The  year  is  there  divided  into  two  por- 
tions, the  dry  and  rainy  seasons ;  during  the  one,  the  earth 
is  saturated  with  moisture ;  during  the  other,  parched  with 
drought. 

The  general  rule  of  culture  is  evident.  When  the  plants 
start  into  growth,  give  plenty  of  water  and  sun ;  keep  them 
vigorously  growing  until  after  the  flowers  have  faded ;  then 
dry  them  off  gradually,  by  watering  less  and  less,  till  the 
foliage  withers ;  then  place  them  in  a  dry,  airy  place,  with- 
out removing  them  from  the  pots,  until  the  season  of 
• 
growth.  The  soil  should  be  sandy  loam,  for  almost  all  the 

species.     Never  allow  water  to  stand  round  the  roots. 

The  time  for  potting  is  from  October  to  December  ;  they 
will  flower  from  February  to  April ;  let  them  dry  off  from 
March  to  June,  and  rest  till  October.  These  are  but  gen- 
eral rules ;  special  cultural  directions  will  be  given  when 
we  treat  of  each  species.  We  have  only  described  a  few  of 
those  best  adapted  for  the  house.  There  are  more  than  a 
hundred  species,  and  countless  varieties.  To  those  who 
would  see  their  beauty,  and  are  unable  to  grow  them,  we 
would  recommend  Mrs.  London's  book  on  Bulbous  Plants, 
where  most  of  them  are  described,  and  colored  illustrations 
of  many  of  the  finest  given, 


CAPE  BULBS.  163 


THE  IXIA. 

These  are  all  bulbs  of  easy  growth,  and  remarkable  for 
the  brilliancy  of  their  flowers.  About  the  latter  part  of 
November,  or  earlier  if  the  bulbs  begin  to  grow,  they  should 
be  shaken  from  the  soil  in  the  pots,  and  planted  anew,  in  a 
compost  made  of  one  part  sandy  loam  and  one  part  peaty 
earth,  with  a  little  well-decomposed  dung,  in  new,  clean 
pots ;  fill  the  pots  about  an  inch  deep  with  small  crocks  to 
secure  good  drainage,  as  the  plants  never  thrive  if  the  earth 
around  the  roots  become  sodden.  Place  the  pots  in  a  cool 
place  till  the  plants  begin  to  grow,  when  they  should  be 
placed  in  a  strong  light  on  a  shelf  close  to  the  window.  As 
a  general  rule,  all  bulbs  should  be  grown  as  close  to  the 
glass  as  possible,  as  thus  the  leaves  are  shorter  and  of  a 
better  color,  and  the  plants  never  become  drawn,  weak,  and 
sickly.  Do  not  attempt  to  force  these  plants  ;  they  do  not 
bear  it  well,  and  are  deficient  in  size  and  number  of  flowers. 
The  temperature  sufficient  to  grow  them  is  about  forty 
degrees  at  night,  to  sixty  by  day. 

Five  or  six  bulbs  in  a  ten-inch  pot,  are  quite  sufficient, 
but  never  mix  the  varieties ;  the  bulbs  in  a  dry  state  are 
very  similar,  therefore  each  pot  should  be  labelled  distinctly, 


164 


CAPE   BULBS. 


if  confusion  in  potting  would  be  avoided.  These  plants,  in 
England,  are  often  grown  in  frames,  or  in  the  open  border. 
In  our  climate,  the  green-house  is  their  proper  place,  as 
they  are  killed  by  the  least  frost.  By  the  latter  part  of 
January  the  flower  stalks  will  begin  to  appear  ;  as  they  are 
very  slender,  they  should  be  secured  to  neat  stakes.  Soon 
after  blooming,  the  leaves  begin  to  turn  yellow,  and  the 

plants  indicate  a  desire  to  rest.     Unless  it  is  desirable  to 

• 

ripen  seed,  the  plants  should  be  allowed  to  dry  off  grad- 
ually, and  the  pots  then  placed  on  a  dry  place,  secure  from 
mice,  until  the  next  autumn.  Seedlings  may  be  easily 
raised.  Sow  the  seeds  thinly,  about  the  first  of  October,  in 
the  same  soil  used  for  the  bulbs ;  allow  the  seedlings  to 
remain  in  the  pan  one  year ;  then  transplant  and  treat  as 
old  bulbs ;  they  will  bloom  the  third  year,  if  well  cared  for. 
The  most  usual  mode  of  propagation  is  by  offsets,  which 
are  freely  produced  ;  the  old  bulb  dies  each  year,  giving 
birth  to  new  bulbs  and  a  host  of  offsets ;  separate  these 
before  potting,  and  they  will  soon  make  flowering  plants. 
Most  of  the  varieties  do  well  in  the  parlor  window,  and  we 
can  recommend  them  as  both  pretty  and  showy,  though  we 
believe  none  are  fragrant.  We  have  only  space  to  describe 
a  few  out  of  some  thirty  varieties. 


CAPE  BULBS.  165 

Ixia  Viridiflora.  A  most  lovely  species ;  leaves  very  slender ;  flower 
epike  very  long,  producing  from  ten  to  thirty  flowers.  Words  cannot 
describe  the  beauty  of  the  flower ;  the  petals  are  of  a  peculiar  vivid 
green ;  the  base  of  each  black ;  stamens  large  and  yellow ;  the  contrast 
is  most  marked ;  a  very  free  bloomer,  of  the  easiest  culture.  Intro- 
duced from  the  Cape  about  the  year  1780. 

Ixia  Crocata,  or.  more  properly,  Tritonia  Crocata.  Flowers  orange 
yellow,  in  great  profusion.  A  fine  variety  for  window  culture. 

Ixia  Conchiflora.  A  strikingly  beautiful  variety,  with  long,  buff- 
colored  flowers. 

Ixia  Conica.     Flowers  orange  ;  very  pretty. 

Ixia  Crateroides.     Flowers  dark  yellow.  ^ 

Ixia  Alba  Oculata.  Color  white,  shading  to  yellow,  with  a  dark  choc- 
olate eye ;  exterior  of  petals  pink,  yellow  and  white.  A  very  fine 
variety. 

Ixia  Crispa.    Flowers  blue. 

Ixia  Erecta.     Flowers  white  or  flesh  color. 

Ixia  Squalida.     Flowers  rosy  lilac. 

Ixia  Kermisiana.     Flowers  vermilion. 

Ixia  Leucantha.    Flowers  white. 

Ixia  Capitata.    Flowers  white  and  black. 

The  following  are  varieties  :  — 

/.  Theseus.    Rosy  pink,  shading  to  a  deep  purple  or  lake  eye. 

/.  Aulica.  Exterior  of  petals  purple ;  interior  almost  white,  shading 
to  purple  at  the  tips ;  eye  dark  purple. 

7.  Plutus.  Exterior  of  petals  orange,  with  red  strip  down  centre  of 
the  outer ;  inner  petals,  and  interior  of  all,  bright  orange ;  eye  almost 
black. 

/.  Pallas.  Only  differing  from  last  described  in  being  straw,  or 
cream  color,  instead  of  orange. 


166  '  CAPE   BULBS. 

These  varieties  resemble  in  growth.  Ixia  viridiflora^  are 
tall  growers,  with  narrow  leaves.  They  are  very  fine,  and 
well  worthy  of  general  cultivation.  There  are  also  many 
newer  varieties  advertised  in  English  catalogues. 

An  outlay  of  a  few  dollars  will  procure  all  these,  and 
many  other  fine  varieties,  from  England.  The  best  way  to 
procure  a  good  stock  is  to  import  a  collection.  There  are 
many  new  seedlings  which  are  very  beautiful.  This  plant 
will  well  repay  the  little  trouble  required  to  grow  it  in 
perfection. 

THE    OXALIS. 

A  very  beautiful  winter  and  spring  flowering  bulb.  The 
varieties  are  very  numerous,  and  are  all  indigenous  to  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  America. 

The  details  of  culture  for  the  New  Holland  species  are 
identical  with  those  given  for  the  ixia ;  we  need  not,  there- 
fore, repeat  them ;  any  varieties  requiring  peculiar  treat- 
ment we  will  notice  as  we  proceed.  The  soil  should  be 
sandy  peat  and  leaf  mould,  and  the  pots  should  always  be 
well  drained.  These  plants  are  not  universally  bulbous, 
some  having  fleshy,  tuberous  roots,  and  it  *is  evident  the 
same  treatment  will  not  do  for  all.  Some  varieties  produce 
their  bulbs  in  a  curious  manner  ;  the  original  bulb  sends 


CAPE   BULBS.  167 

down  a  long,  radicle  fibre,  which  in  time   forms  the  new 
bulb,  and  the  old  bulb  dies. 

We  have  space  but  to  note  a  few  varieties. 

Oxalis  Hirta,  O.  Flabelifolia,  O.  Elongata,  and  O.  Amcena  require  to 
be  potted  in  August  or  September. 

Oxalis  Boweana.  One  of  the  best,  producing  large  clusters  of  bright, 
rosy  red  flowers  during  the  whole  fall.  Should  be  potted  in  September. 
Native  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

Oxalis  Floribunda.  A  variety  with  short,  fleshy  stems,  just  serving  to 
elevate  the  dense  tuft  of  leaves  and  blossoms  above  the  soil.  Should  be 
allowed  to  dry  off  during  the  winter,  and  bedded  out  in  summer,  when 
it  will  bloom  profusely  for  about  four  months.  A  native  of  Chili. 
Flowers  rosy  pink. 

Oxalis  Carnosa  will  do  well  with  the  same  treatment. 

Oxalis  Caprina.  Two  varieties,  the  single  and  double ;  the  former  is 
preferable,  and  the  freer  bloomer.  Flowers,  yellow  and  fragrant,  pro- 
duced most  luxuriantly  all  winter.  Pot  in  October.  This  variety  does 
finely  under  window  culture. 

Oxalis  Dcppii.  A  summer-blooming  variety,  with  fine,  lilac  rose 
flowers.  Does  well  bedded  out.  A  native  of  Mexico.  The  fleshy  tap- 
roots of  this  variety  are  sometimes  used  as  an  esculent. 

Oxalis  Versicolor.  A  lovely  variety ;  flowers  white,  with  yellow  eye, 
rosy  pink,  or  crimson  outside  ;  whether  the  flowers  are  expanded  (which 
they  only  are  in  sunny  weather)  or  in  the  bud,  they  are  equally  orna- 
mental. Plant,  in  October,  six  to  eight  large  bulbs  (the  largest  do  not 
exceed  a  pea  in  size)  in  a- five-inch  pot;  suspend  the  pot;  the  plants 
droop  over  the  side,  and  are  a  mass  of  bloom  from  January  to  April. 
Native  of  the  Cape. 

Oxalis  Luxula^  and  O.  Luxula  Alba,  are  pretty  varieties,  to  be  potted 
in  September,  and  blooming  freely  during  the  winter.  Flowers  pink 
and  white  respectively. 


168  CAPE  BULBS. 

Oxalis  Alba,  Multiflora,  Cuprea,  Elegans,  Palmata,  Hirtetta,  Lasian- 
dra,  and  Speciosa,  are  all  pretty  varieties,  worthy  of  cultivation. 

THE    BABIANA. 

This  is  a  very  handsome  genus  of  .Cape  bulbs,  with  hairy 
plaited  leaves,  and  brilliant  flowers. 

They  are  natives  of  arid  plains,  and  during  their  growing 
season  will  bear  much  wet,  and  when  dry  will  not  be 
injured  by  great  heat.  In  their  native  haunts  the  ground 
often  becomes  powdery,  and  the  bulbs  lie  exposed  to  the 
fierce  rays  of  the  sun. 

The  general  treatment  prescribed  for  ixias  will  suit  them 
well.  The  soil  should  be  kept  open  by  sufficient  sand,  yet 
should  be  rich,  say  two  parts  sandy  loam,  and  one  part 
black  leaf  mould. 

These  plants  are  very  subject  to  attacks  of  the  red  spider, 
for  which  constant  syringing  is  the  remedy.  It  is  to  be 
remembered  that  in  this  "  an  ounce  of  prevention  is  worth 
a  pound  of  cure/'  for  when  the  red  spider  once  makes  a 
home  in  the  hairy  leaves  it  is  very  difficult  to  dislodge  him. 
Seedlings  are  easily  raised,  and  flower  the  third  year.  The 
following,  from  some  twenty  species,  are  the  best :  — 

Babiana  Rubro  Cyanea.  A  very  handsome  plant.  Flower  very  bril- 
liant; colors  dark  blue  and  dazzling  crimson;  leaves  broad,  covered 


CAPE  BULBS.  169 

with  hairy  down ;  flowers  of  long  duration,  if  not  exposed  to  too  strong 
a  light.  A  pot  of  this  bulb,  in  full  bloom,  is  one  of  the  most  splendid 
ornaments  of  the  parlor.  This  beautiful  bulb  may  be  procured  in  this 
country,  but  not  in  any  quantity.  It  is  often  imported  under  the  name 
of  Anomathcca  Azurea. 

B.  Villosa.  A  fine  species,  with  dazzling  crimson  flowers,  produced 
in  great  profusion.  In  spite  of  its  name  (Villosa),  the  species  is  less 
hairy  than  others. 

B.  Stricta>  Produces  lilac  and  white  flowers  very  plentifully,  and  con- 
tinues in  bloom  a  long  time.  The  colors  are  very  bright  and  distinct. 

B.  Angustifolil  is  a  pretty  dwarf  species,  with  brilliant  bluish-pink 
flowers,  which  are  slightly  fragrant. 

B.  Sulphured.    A  fine  species,  with  cream-colored  flowers. 

B.  Plicata,  with  violet  blue  flowers. 

B.  Disticha  produces  white  and  purple  flowers,  of  an  exquisite  hy- 
acinthine  fragrance. 

B.  Sambucina  has  rich,  purple,  fragrant  flowers. 

THE    H^EMANTHUS. 

This  bulb,  commonly  called  Blood  Flower,  is  not  uncom- 
mon, but  is  grown  more  for  its  oddity  than  its  beauty. 

The  bulb  is  very  large,  often  a  foot  in  circumference. 
About  the  first  of  September,  it  pushes  forth  a  flower  stem 
an  inch  thick,  crowned  by  a  large  bud,  which,  opening,  dis- 
closes a  multitude  of  crowded  flowers,  of  no  beauty.  These 
soon  fade,  and  the  bulb  then  produces  two  immense  leaves, 
which  often  grow  eighteen  inches  long  and  six^  inches  wide, 
hanging  down,  one  on  each  side  of  the  pot.  These  wither ; 
15 


170  CAPE   BULBS. 

the  bulb  goes  to  rest,  to  repeat  the  process  the  next  year. 
When  the  flower  bud  begins  to  push,  or  just  before,  say 
about  the  last  of  August,  the  bulb  should  be  re-potted  in 
two  parts  rich  leaf  mould,  one  part  sand ;  give  plenty  of 
sun  and  water  as  long  as  the  leaf  continues  to  grow,  then 
dry  off  gradually.  There  are  few  persons,  having  friends  at 
the  Cape,  who  have  not  received  bulbs  of  this  plant,  and  it 
is  quite  common.  There  are  many  species ;  the  most 
chowy  are  H.  insignis,  with  red  flowers,  and  a  variety  with 
yellow  flowers. 

THE    AMARYLLIS. 

This  is  an  immense  family  of  fine  flowering  bulbs,  in 
regard  to  which  great  botanical  confusion  exists,  and  from 
which  several  families  have  been  separated.  They  are  all 
strong  growing  plants,  requiring  liberal  treatment  to  insure 
good  bloom.  The  flowers  are  of  many  colors,  produced  in 
great  profusion,  and  will  well  repay  the  care  required.  The 
soil  should  be  richest  leaf  mould  and  loam,  with  a  little  fine 
sand.  Good  drainage  is  important.  The  pots  should  be 
large,  as  the  roots  are  very  strong  and  require  much  room. 
The  species  differ  so  much  in  their  habits  no  general 
cultural  rules  can  be  given. 


CAPE   BULBS.  171 

As  window  plants,  they  do  admirably,  one  species,  A. 
( Vallota)  purpurea,  being  found  in  every  cottage  window. 

A.  belladonna  is  the  always  admired  belladonna  lily. 
Two  things  are  necessary  for  its  flowering :  a  vigorous 
growth  of  the  leaves,  and  entire  rest  from  midsummer  until 
the  flowering  season  in  September.  The  bulbs  are  very 
large.  Plant  in  August,  in  good  sized  pots ;  if  your  bulb 
is  in  good  condition,  about  the  middle  of  September  the 
flower  stem  will  appear,  and  will  develop  from  four  to  ten 
large  pink  and  white  lily-shaped  flowers,  on  a  stem  eigh- 
teen inches  high.  As  soon  as  the  flower  fades,  the  leaves 
will  appear  in  profusion ;  give  plenty  of  water,  light,  and 
air,  for  on  the  growth  of  these  depends  your  next  year's 
bloom.  The  leaves  will  continue  to  grow  until  the  next 
spring;  then  the  bulb  should  be  allowed  to  dry  off,  and 
absolute  rest  be  given  until  the  time  for  re-potting. 

Thus  treated,  not  one  bulb  in  a  hundred  will  fail  to 
flower  regularly. 

A.  llanda,  a  fine  species  with  an  enormous  bulb,  and 
flower  buds  four  inches  long  ;  the  flower  stalk  is  three  feet 
high.  Treatment  identical  with  the  above. 

A.  (Hippeastrum)  aulica,  a  species  with  a  large  bulb, 
and  dark  crimson  flowers,  marked  with  green  and  black. 


172 


CAPE   BULBS. 


Soil,  the  same  as  above.  A  peculiarity  of  this  species  is,  it 
should  never  be  allowed  to  dry  off. 

During  its  season  of  rest,  which  is  from  August  to 
December,  water  should  be  sparingly  given,  but  never 
wholly  withheld.  The  leaves  are  long,  and  of  a  dark,  shin- 
ing green,  rising  from  the  crown  of  the  bulb  and  drooping 
slightly  at  the  end.  The  flowers  are  two  in  number,  pro- 
duced on  a  stout  stalk,  which  pushes  from  the  side  of  the 
bulb  ;  frequently  strong  bulbs  will  give  two  or  three  spikes. 
After  blooming,  grow  the  leaves  well.  This  bulb  scarcely 
ever  fails  to  bloom,  and  the  flowers  continue  in  perfection  a 
long  time. 

A.  (Hippeastruni)  vittata  is  a  magnificent  species,  with 
white  flowers  striped  with  bright  rose.  In  the  house,  it 
flowers  from  April  to  June.  It  requires  a  season  of  rest 
just  before  flowering,  and  a  soil  similar  to  A.  belladonna. 

A.  (Hippeastruni)  psittacina  resembles  A.  aulica,  but 
has  six  or  more  flowers  in  an  umbel.  The  treatment  is  the 
same  as  A.  vittata. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  these  last  three,  the  garden 
hybrids  already  numbering  hundreds.  All  do  well  as  parlor 
plants. 

A.  ( Vallota)  purpurea  requires  much  the  same  treatment 


CAPE   BULBS.  173 

as  A.  aulica;  it  should  never  be  allowed  to  wholly  rest. 
The  soil  should  be,  one  part  turfy  peat,  one  rich  leaf  mould, 
one  fine  sand.  Its  flowering  season  is  in  summer,  from 
July  to  October.  It  produces  offsets  abundantly,  which 
should  be  removed  and  potted  separately.  A  large  bulb 
will  often  throw  three  or  four  spikes  of  eight  to  ten  rich 
scarlet  flowers. 

A  lovely  plant,  and  very  common. 

A.  (Sprekelia)  formosissima.  This  is  the  well-known 
Jacobean  lily,  so  commonly  sold  as  a  summer  bulb  in  the 
spring.  The  bulbs  should  be  potted  in  equal  parts  of  loam, 
well-rotted  manure,  and  sand.  The  flowers  are  of  peculiar 
shape,  of  richest  crimson,  produced  in  June,  and  followed  by 
the  leaves. 

It  may  be  grown  as  a  pot  plant,  or  in  the  garden  (taking 
it  up  in  winter),  or  in  water  (as  a  hyacinth),  or  hung  up  in 
a  room,  wrapped  in  wet  moss. 

By  growing  the  leaves  well,  the  bulbs  will  bloom   for 

years. 

THE    LACHENALIA. 

These  are  pretty  little  bulbs,  requiring  a  rough,  peaty, 
and  sandy  soil.     The  bulbs  are  small,  but  a  pot  filled  with 
the  foliage  and  flower  makes  a  pretty  show.     The  plants  are 
15* 


174  CAPE   BULBS. 

impatient  of  water,  but  after  starting  into  growth  should 
never  be  allowed  to  become  parched.  Pot  in  October,  and 
they  will  bloom  from  January  to  February.  The  foliage  is 
prettily  variegated  with  black  ;  the  flowers  are  produced  in 
upright  spikes,  and  are  pendulous,  high-colored  tubes. 

L.  pendula  is  our  most  common  species,  with  yellow  and 
red  flowers. 

L.  fragrans.     Flowers  white  and  red. 

L.  quadricolor.     Flowers  yellow,  red,  and  purple. 

There  are  many  species  with  pink,  purple,  red,  yellow, 
and  blue  flowers,  all  of  easiest  culture,  and  all  pretty 
window  plants. 

They  should  be  grown  as  near  to  the  glass  as  possible. 

THE    SPARAXIS. 

This  is  a  genus  of  splendid  flowering  plants  which  have 
been  separated  from  ixia,  to  which  they  are  nearly  allied, 
and  ~which  in  growth,  foliage,  and  flower  they  much 
resemble. 

Their  treatment  is  in  every  way  identical  with  that  pre- 
scribed for  the  ixia. 

The  flowers  are  usually  more  brilliant  and  variegated  in 
color  than  those  of  the  ixia. 


CAPE   BULBS.  175 

Spar  axis  tricolor  produces  flowers  of  extraordinary 
beauty ;  they  are  yellow,  bordered  with  rich,  velvety  purple, 
and  this  again  bordered  with  brilliant  orange. 

It  does  not  bloom  until  well  into  the  spring.  Water 
should  be  moderately  given  during  growth,  and  plentifully 
during  the  flowering  season.  Its  period  of  rest  is  from 
June  to  October. 

8.  versicolor,  a  species  much  resembling  the  last,  the 
ground  color  being  crimson  instead  of  orange.  The  same 
treatment  is  required. 

8.  blanda  has  pink  and  white  flowers  with  a  yellow 
centre. 

S.  grandiftora  has  dark,  reddish  purple  flowers. 

S.  pendula  is  quite  distinct  from  the  above.  It  requires 
more  water,  being  a  native  of  wet  places.  The  flowers  are 
drooping,  and  purple.  It  is  a  tall-growing,  very  handsome 
species. 

All  the  sparaxis  require  rather  more  sand  than  the  ixias, 
and  will  not  bear  over- water  ing. 

THE    ANOMATHECA. 

This  is  a  beautiful  little  bulb,  of  only  two  species,  one 
with  pink,  the  other  with  scarlet  flowers.  The  bulbs  are 


176  CAPE   BULBS. 

small,  and  should  be  planted  thickly  in  the  pot.  Soil,  rich 
loam  and  leaf  mould,  in  equal  parts.  Plant  the  bulbs  in 
January ;  the  leaves  will  soon  make  their  appearance,  fol- 
lowed by  the  flowers  in  May ;  the  plants  will  continue  in 
bloom  the  whole  summer,  and  be  gems  of  beauty.  Let 
them  rest  from  September  to  January.  Seed  is  plentifully 
produced,  germinates  freely,  and  seedlings  will  bloom  the 
second  year. 

There  is  no  flower  that  will  make  so  much  show  in  a 
small  space  as  A.  cruenta.  Water  moderately ;  drain  the 
pots  well.  The  only  species  are,  — 

A.  juncea,  with  reedy  leaves  and  pink  flowers. 

A.  cruenta,  with  scarlet  flowers  and  large  leaves. 

THE    TRITONIA.    ' 

The  plants  composing  this  genus  are  closely  allied  to  ixiq 
and  sparaxis.  In  form,  they  vary  greatly  one  from  tho 
other,  some  being  funnel-shaped,  others  salver-shaped,  like 
ixia,  others  bell-shaped. 

The  culture  prescribed  for  the  ixia  will  do  for  them,  and 
all  are  well  adapted  for  pot  culture  in  the  green-house,  yet 
few  would  succeed  in  the  window. 

T.   (Ixia)  squalida  has  fine,  rosy  flowers ;    T.  rosea  has 


CAPE   BULBS.  177 

delicate  pink  flowers ;  T.  miniata  fine  orange-colored 
flowers  ;  T.  (Ixia)  crocata,  a  very  showy  orange-flowered 
species,  very  easily  grown,  and  quite  common. 

All  the  above  much  resemble  the  ixia  in  forrn  of  the 
flowers,  and  dp  well  as  window  plants. 

THE    HOMERIA. 

A  race  of  fine  flowering  bulbs,  of  easy  growth.  The 
flowers  are  showy,  produced  in  profusion  for  a  long  time. 

The  proper  soil  is  equal  parts  of  loam,  leaf  mould,  and 
sand. 

The  bulbs  should  be  treated  like  ixias  as  to  potting, 
watering,  and  rest.  They  flower  from  April  to  June.  The 
principal  species  are,  — 

Homeria  lineata,  leaves  very  long  and  stiff,  marked  with 
white  and  green  lines ;  bulb  small ;  flower  stem  about  one 
and  a  half  feet  long,  producing  from  spathes  single  flowers 
of  a  copper  color,  in  shape  very  like  those  of  Tritonia  cro- 
cata ;  single  blooms  transient,  but  many  are  produced  in 
succession,  and  the  plants  are  thus  in  flower  for  a  long  time. 
Blooms  in  the  house  about  the  middle  of  April.  A  showy 
plant.  The  flower  has  a  disagreeable  smell ;  perfects 
seeds  in  abundance.  A  number  of  bulbs  should  be  planted 


178  CAPE   BULBS. 

in  a  pot  to  produce  a  fine  effect ;  and  as  the  roots  grow, 
the  plants  should  be  re-potted  (taking  care  not  to  break 
the  ball  of  earth,  and  to  disturb  the  roots  as  little  as  pos- 
sible), for  the  growth  of  the  roots  is  so  strong  as  often  to 
break  the  pot  if  it  is  not  large  enough  for  their  develop- 
ment. 

H.  spicata,  a  beautiful  plant,  producing  an  abundance  of 
yellow  and  red  flowers. 

H.  collina^  having  orange  scarlet  flowers. 

THE    NERINE. 

The  treatment  of  these  beautiful  bulbs  is  identically 
that  required  for  the  Belladonna  Lily.  Thus  cared  for,  the 
flowers  will  be  plentifully  produced,  and  by  their  brilliancy 
and  beauty  repay  for  the  care  afforded. 

The  soil  should  be  rich  loam,  peat,  and  sand,  in  equal 
proportions,  and  water  should  be  plentifully  supplied  during 
flowering  and  growth. 

N.  curvifolia  is  a  fine  species,  with  glittering,  scarlet 
flowers. 

N.  coruscans  has  large  umbels  of  shining,  salmon-colored 
flowers,  and  is  our  most  common  species. 

N.  sarnensis  is  the  far-famed  Guernsey  Lily. 


CAPE   BULBS. 


179 


The  two  former  make  fine  plants  for  the  parlor,  produ- 
cing their  umbels  of  showy  flowers  in  September  or  October, 
before  the  leaves.  The  flower  of  both  species  have  a  pecu- 
liar lustre,  and  glitter  like  jewels  in  the  sun. 

All  these  bulbs  may  be  procured  of  any  large  dealer  at  a 
trifling  cost.  They  are  admirably  fitted  for  growing  close 
to  the  glass,  and  do  well  in  long  boxes  set  into  the  window. 

They  are  hardy,  and  will  bear  ill-treatment ;  the  primal 
rule  is,  grow  the  leaves  well,  dry  off  the  plants  gradually, 
and  you  will  be  sure  of  a  profusion  of  fine  bloom. 


LOWERS,  scattered  unrestrained  and  free. 

O'er  hill  and  dale  and  woodland  sod, 
That  man,  where'er  he  walks,  may  see, 
In  every  step,  the  hand  of  God. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 


DUTCH   BULBS. 


THE  HYACINTH:  History.  —  Season  for  Planting.  —  Modes  of  Growth.— 
In  Pots.  -  Offsets.  -  Water.  -  Drying  off.  -  Increasing  Brilliancy  of  the 
Flowers.  — In  Sand.  — In  Moss.  —  In  Frame.  — In  Glasses.— Choice  of 
Bulbs.  —  Varieties.  THE  TULIP  :  Species.  —  Classes.  -  Seedlings.  —  Va- 
rieties. —  Soil.  THE  CROCUS  :  Description.  —  Soil.  —  Varieties.  THE 

(180) 


DUTCH   BULBS. 


181 


SNOWDROP:  Soil.  —  Species.  THE  IRIS:  Soil. —  Watering.  —  Modes 
of  Growth.  —  Species.  THE  JONQUIL  :  Culture.  —  Soil.  THE  NAR- 
CISSUS: Soil.  —  Modes  of  Growing.  —  Species  and  Varieties. 


VARIETY  of  bulbs  receive  the 
general  name  of  Dutch  Bulbs,  be- 
cause they  are  extensively  grown 
in  Holland,  and  are  chiefly  ex- 
ported thence.  They  are  among 
the  most  popular  parlor  plants, 
and  are  desirable,  both  from  their 
beautiful  and  fragrant  flowers  and 
their  easy  culture.  They  are  all 
winter  bloomers,  with  proper  management  producing  a 
succession  of  bloom  from  January  to  April. 

They  will  succeed  with  but  little  care,  the  requisites  for 
success  being  procurable  by  all ;  requiring  but  little  space, 
they  can  be  grown  in  the  smallest  window,  while  their 
cheapness  places  them  within  the  reach  of  all.  Are  any, 
then,  excusable  for  not  growing  flowers?  Is  not  the  re- 
ward more  than  a  compensation  for  the  trouble  ?  And  who 
is  so  unmindful  of  the  beauty  of  flowers  as  not  to  wish  to 
have  them  around  him  ? 

The  general  treatment  suitable  for  these  bulbs  does  not 
16 


182  DUTCH    BULBS. 

differ  materially  from  that  prescribed  for  Cape  Bulbs,  in  the 
last  chapter. 

These  bulbs  being  winter  bloomers,  are  at  rest  in  sum- 
mer, therefore  their  period  of  growth  is  from  October  and 
December  to  February  and  May. 

They  possess  one  advantage  over  the  Cape  Bulbs,  that 
of  succeeding  perfectly  in  the  open  border,  being  hardy 
enough  to  endure  our  winters  ;  but  their  treatment  in  open 
culture  will  more  appropriately  fall  under  a  later  chapter. 

The  soil  for  their  growth  in  the  house  should  be  one 
part  very  rich,  well-rotted  manure,  one  part  rich  loam, 
one  half  part  sand.  They  are  thirsty  plants,  and  require 
to  be  liberally  supplied  with  water.  They  are  subject  to 
no  insects,  except  occasionally  green  fly,  which  is  easily 
removed  by  smoking. 

THE    HYACINTH. 

All  the  innumerable  varieties  of  this  bulb  are  seedlings 
and  hybrids  from  the  Oriental  Hyacinth  (H.  Orientalis),  a 
native  of  the  Levant,  and  introduced  to  cultivation  about 
the  year  1590.  Ever  since  that  time  it  has,  in  some  of  its 
many  varieties,  been  a  popular  plant ;  it  is,  in  fact,  one  of 
the  flowers  of  the  olden  time,  and  claims  a  prominent  place 
in  floral  poesy  and  simile. 


DUTCH   BULBS.  183 

But  even  the  gorgeous  varieties  of  this  species  are  ex- 
ceeded in  beauty  and  brilliancy  of  color  by  the  little  blue  Ame- 
thyst Hyacinth  of  Europe.  The  color  of  this  azure  gem  can- 
not be  described.  It  is  the  most  pellucid  amethystine  blue. 
The  flower  is  small  and  drooping,  and  exquisitely  fragrant. 
This  little  bulb  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  should  be  more 
common  in  our  gardens.  In  growing  the  hyacinth  for 
winter  bloom,  a  succession  may  be  maintained  by  planting 
a  few  bulbs  every  week,  from  November  or  earlier,  until 
Christmas.  Those  first  planted  will  bloom  soon  after  New 
Year's,  and  a  continuous  bloom  may  be  had  until  the 
flowers  bloom  in  April  in  the  open  air. 

There  are,  also,  many  modes  of  growth, 

IN  POTS. 

A  deep  pot  grows  the  bulbs  far  better  than  a  shallow 
one.  These  are  called  bulb  pots,  and  may  be  procured  at 
about  the  cost  of  common  pots.  Fill  in  an  inch  of  pot- 
sherds, then  a  few  small  pieces  of  charcoal.  Prepare  a 
compost  of  rich  yellow  turfy  loam,  one  part ;  well-decom- 
posed cow  manure,  one  part ;  coarse,  clean  sand,  one  half 
part.  Fill  the  pots  with  this,  and  pot  the  bulbs,  leaving 
the  crown  about  half  an  inch  above  the  surface  of  the  soil ; 


184  DUTCH   BULBS. 

press  the  earth  around  the  bulb,  and  settle  all  by  a  good 
watering.  Then  set  the  pots  away  in  a  warm,  dark  place, 
keeping  the  soil  moderately  damp  until  the  pot  is  filled 
with  roots,  which  may  be  ascertained  by  turning  out  the 
plant,  as  directed  in  a  previous  chapter.  Then  bring  the 
plant .  to  the  light.  The  shoot  will  probably  be  an  inch 
high,  and  pure  white,  but  in  a  few  days  it  will  become 
green,  and  grow  with  great  rapidity  ;  the  flower  spike  will 
soon  show,  and  with  plenty  of  light  and  heat,  a  few  weeks 
will  suffice  to  give  a  fine  display  of  bloom. 

Offsets  should  be  removed  as  soon  as  they  appear,  by 
running  the  thumb  nail  down  the  side  of  the  bulb,  and 
pressing  them  off;  if  large  enough  to  flower,  or  of  fine 
varieties,  they  should  be  set  in  small  pots,  where  they  will 
soon  make  roots,  and  in  time  form  fine  blooming  bulbs. 

Water  very  liberally  after  the  bulbs  are  brought  to  the 
light. 

As  soon  as  the  flowers  fade,  and  the  tips  of  the  leaves 
begin  to  turn  yellow,  water  should  be  gradually  withheld, 
and  the  bulbs  thus  dried  off.  When  dry,  the  earth  should 
be  carefully  shaken  off1,  and  the  dry  bulb  put  away  for  the 
next  autumn's  planting. 

This  is,  however,  seldom  done,  the  bulbs  being  so  cheap 


DUTCH   BULBS.  185 

"  it  is  too  much  trouble  ;  "  so,  after  flowering,  they  are  usu- 
ally thrown  away  or  rapidly  dried,  and  in  the  spring  set  out 
in  the  flower  garden,  where  they  produce  weak  bloom  for 
years.  If  small  bits  of  powdered  charcoal  be  mixed  with 
the  earth,  it  imparts  great  depth  and  brilliancy  of  color 
to  the  flowers,  and  a  dark,  rich  green  to  the  foliage.  Bone 
shavings  or  horn  scrapings  assist  a  full  development  of 
foliage  and  flower.  If  the  plants  are  watered  once  a  fort- 
night with  a  very  weak  solution  of  glue,  or  a  few  drops  of 
hartshorn  added  to  the  water,  the  same  effect  will  be 
produced. 

IN  SAND. 

The  bulbs  may  be  grown  in  pure  sand.  Silver  sand  is 
the  best,  but  common  house  sand  mil  do  if  well  washed, 
to  free  it  from  salt. 

Plant  and  treat  as  directed  above.  The  bulbs  should, 
however,  be  transplanted  to  earth  after  blooming,  and  dried 
off  gradually.  A  pretty  effect  is  produced  by  covering  the 
sand  with  moss. 

IN  Moss. 

Plant  and  treat  as  directed  above,  and  after  blooming 
16* 


186  DUTCH   BULBS. 

transplant  to  earth,  if  desirable  to  plant  the  bulbs  another 
season.     Water  very  freely. 

COLD  FRAME. 

A  good  way,  if  one  intends  to  grow  many  of  these  bulbs, 
is  to  have  a  cold  frame  and  sash.  Let  it  be  set  on  a  good 
hard  gravel  bottom,  or  some  well-drained  place  ;  then  set 
all  your  pots  in  the  frame,  placing  over  each  bulb  a  small 
pot  inverted.  Fill  in  all  around  the  pots,  and  half  cover 
the  small  pot  with  tan  or  fine  coal  ashes.  Cover  up  your 
frame,  and  unless  the  plants,  by  becoming  dry,  need  a 
watering,  you  have  nothing  more  to  do.  Suppose  this  is 
done  by  the  first  of  October,  they  will  be  sufficiently  for- 
ward to  bring  into  the  house  about  the  middle  of  Novem- 
ber. But  as  frost  will  not  hurt  them  while  covered  up  in 
the  bed,  bring  in  a  few  as  wanted,  and  thus  maintain  a 
succession  of  bloom.  This  treatment  does  admirably  for 
all  Dutch  bulbs.  The  frame  is  small,  and  could  be  put  in 
any  back  yard.  It  need  not  be  light,  nor  is  a  glass  sash 
essential ;  a  board  cover  will  do.  The  object  of  the  small 
pot  is  to  keep  the  ashes,  ana  tan,  away  from  the  bulb. 


DUTCH  BULBS.  187 

IN  WATER. 

When  hyacinths  are  to  be  grown  in  water,  choose  the 
darkest-colored  glasses.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  keep  the 
bulbs  for  a  few  weeks  in  damp  moss,  to  encourage  the 
growth  of  roots.  Place  them  in  the  glasses  about  the  last 
of  November,  or  later  ;  the  water  should  just  touch  the 
base  of  the  bulb.  Keep  them  in  a  warm,  dark  place  until 
the  glass  is  half  full  of  roots.  Rain  water  should  be  used, 
and  changed  once  a  fortnight ;  any  loss  by  evaporation 
should  be  supplied.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  use  the 
water  too  cold ;  that  filled  in,  both  in  changing  and  re- 
filling, should  be  the  same  temperature  as  that  in  which 
the  bulb  is  growing. 

A  few  drops  of  hartshorn,  supplied  when  the  water  is 
changed,  help  the  growth.  After  blooming,  the  bulbs 
should  at  once  be  re-potted  in  earth,  if  the  bulb  is  valua- 
ble. If  by  any  neglect  the  roots  become  coated  with  green 
slime,  they  may  be  carefully  washed  in  lukewarm  water. 

CHOICE  OF  BULBS. 

The  bulb  should  be  hard  and  solid,  and  its  base  sound. 
Size  is  no  criterion,  some  of  the  finest  kinds  being  always 


188  DUTCH  BULBS. 

large,  and  others  always  small.  Nor  can  any  rule  be  given 
as  to  shape,  some  being  quite  conical  at  all  times,  and 
others  spherical  or  flat.  Avoid  those  bulbs  which  have  the 
appearance  of  throwing  out  many  offsets,  as  they  will  be 
sure  to  weaken  the  parents.  As  a  general  rule,  choose 
medium-sized,  firm,  hard,  heavy  bulbs.  If  you  wish  fine 
flower,  never  buy  auction  bulbs ;  they  are  but  the  refuse 
of  Holland  florists,  shipped  here  to  sell  at  best  prices. 
Good  bulbs,  of  fine  named  kinds,  can  be  procured  of  seeds- 
men for  three  dollars  a  dozen.  Auction  bulbs  will  do  for 
general  effect  out  of  doors,  but  they  never  give  fine  flowers. 
Hyacinths  may  be  prettily  grown  in  large  pots,  boxes,  or 
pans.  A  small  hollow  table,  made  to  receive  a  large  pan 
of  hyacinths,  is  a  pretty  ornament  of  a  parlor. 

VARIETIES. 

Single  varieties  usually  bloom  better  than  double  in  the 
window,  and  are,  therefore,  to  be  preferred.  We  give  a 
list  of  both. 

Double  Red. 

Acteur,  Josephine, 

Grootverst,  Panorama, 

Bouquet  Tendre,  Rex  Rubrorum, 

Hecla,  Sans  Souci. 


DUTCH   BULBS. 


189 


A  la  Mode, 
Miss  Kitty, 
Anna  Maria, 
Gloria  Florum, 


Double   White. 


Triomphe  Blandina, 
Sultan  Achmet, 
Grand  Monarque  de  France, 
Violette  Superbe. 


Buonaparte, 

Argus, 

La  Majestueuse, 

Grand  Vedette, 


Double  Slue. 


Orondatus, 
Envoye, 

Lauren s  Koster, 
Lord  Wellington. 


Double   Yellow. 


Bouquet  d'Orange, 
Gloria  Florum, 
Heroine, 
Ophir, 


Louis  d'Or, 

Due  de  Berry  d'Or. 

Croesus, 

Goethe, 


Amieus, 

Baron  Van  Tuyll, 

Argus, 

Emilius, 


Single  Slue. 


L'Amie  du  Coeur, 
Robert  Peel, 
Orondatus, 
Prince  Albert. 


Amy, 

Mars, 

Charles  Dickens, 

Porcelain  Sceptre, 


Single  Red. 


Grand  Vedette, 
Mrs.  Beecher  Stowe, 
Cosmos, 
Homevus. 


190 


DUTCH   BULBS. 


Single  White. 

Blandine,  Mont  Blanc, 

Victoria  Regina,  Paix  de  1'Europe, 

Voltaire,  Anna  Paulowna, 

Elfrida,  General  Cavaignac. 

Single  Yellow. 

Alida  Jacoba,  Heroine, 

Fleur  d'Or,  Aurora, 

Lion  d'Or,  Victor  Hugo, 

-Soleil  d'Or,  Prince  of  Orange. 


THE    TULIP. 

Probably  no  flower  has  been  so  much  the  object  of  com- 
mercial speculation  as  the  Tulip.  There  was  a  time  when 
a  single  root,  of  a  fine  variety,  was  held  at  a  far  higher  price 
than  its  weight  in  gold.  To  such  an  extent  did  the  mania 
increase,  that  houses,  farms,  and  all  species  of  property  were 
bargained  for  a  bed  of  tulips  ;  and  all  kinds  of  absurdities 
were  committed,  which  are  well  detailed  in  the  story  of  the 
"  Tulip  Mania,"  in  the  History  of  Popular  Delusions. 

The  many  varieties  of  garden  tulips  are  all  derived  from 
Tulipa  Gesneriana  (except  the  Early  Due  Van  Thol,  the 
Double  Inodorous,  varieties  of  the  T.  oculus  solis,  and  the 
Parrot  Tulips,  which  are  produced  by  a  cross  between  T. 


DUTCH   BULBS.  191 

cornuta  and  sylvestris).  It  (T.  Gesneriana)  was  brought  to 
Europe  from  Persia,  more  than  three  hundred  years  ago, 
and  was  cultivated  at  Constantinople.  Thence  it  was 
disseminated  through  Europe,  under  the  name  of  Turkey 
Tulip,  and  was  first  botanically  described  by  Gesner,  a  Swiss 
botanist,  in  honor  of  whom  it  was  named  by  Linnseus. 

The  commercial  speculation  in  tulips  reached  its  height 
about  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century,  as  we  learn 
from  Loudon ;  since  then  it  has  declined ;  but  still  large 
prices  are  often  paid  for  new  or  fine  varieties. 

Tulips  are  chiefly  raised  for  the  market  in  Holland, 
though  in  England  much  attention  is  paid  to  them  as  florists' 
flowers. 

Tulips  are  divided  into  three  classes  :  Bizards,  or  Bizarres, 
having  a  yellow  ground,  broken  with  purple  or  red ;  Rose, 
which  have  a  white  ground,  broken  with  cherry  color ; 
Bybloemens,  which  are  white,  broken  with  purple.  These 
classes  are  subdivided  into  flamed  and  feathered,  the  former 
being  those  which  are  somewhat  striped,  the  latter  those 
which  are  only  broadly  marked  on  'the  edge. 

We  abridge  from  Loudon,  some  facts  of  interest  concern- 
ing this  flower :  — 

"  The  mode  of  raising   tulips   from   seed,   practised   in 


192  DUTCH   BULBS. 

England,  was  till  lately  a  very  strange  one,  and  quite 
unworthy  of  the  advanced  state  of  science  at  the  present 
day.  The  seed  was  saved  from  the  unbroken  flowers,  or 
breeders,  as  they  were  termed,  and  consequently  the  young 
plants  were  always  self-colored.  To  make  them  break, 
that  is,  to  vary  their  colors,  the  strangest  methods  were 
resorted  to :  sometimes  they  were  planted  for  one  season 
in  a  hot-bed,  and  the  next  in  the  poorest  soil  that  could 
be  procured;  and  sometimes  they  were  removed  to  a 
distant  county,  twenty  or  thirty  miles  from  where  they 
were  first  grown,  and  then  brought  back  again.  But,  in 
spite  of  all  the  care  bestowed  upon  them,  they  were  gen- 
erally from  seven  to  ten  or  twelve  years  before  they  showed 
any  symptoms  of  variegation,  and  some  never  did  at  all. 
A  more  rational  method  is  now  pursued,  and  the  seeds  of 
the  handsomest  tulips  being  saved,  showy  flowers  are 
frequently  produced  the  second  year,  and  bulbs  of  three 
years  old  often  produce  flowers  fit  for  winning  prizes." 

The  only  species  of  tulip  grown  in  the  parlor  are  T. 
oculis  solis,  with  red  flowers  and  a  dark  eye,  and  T.  suavo- 
lens,  commonly  called  Due  Van  Thol,  with  scarlet  and 
yellow  blossoms.  These  are  both  dwarf  early  species, 
and  make  a  dazzling,  though  transient  show.  They  may 


DUTCH   BULBS.  193 

be  brought  into  bloom  in  December,  and  a  succession  may 
be  obtained,  as  directed  for  hyacinths.  The  proper  soil  is 
one  part  well  decomposed  horse  dung,  one  part  rich  loam, 
one  part  sand. 

THE    CROCUS. 

A  beautiful  race,  of  about  twenty  species  of  hardy  bulbs, 
some  blooming  in  spring,  others  in  autumn ;  natives  of  the 
south  of  Europe  and  Eastern  Asia ;  some  species  grow  wild 
in  England. 

Our  garden  varieties,  with  the  exception  of  the  large 
yellow  and  the  Scotch  Crocus,  are  mostly  hybrids. 

For  blooming  in  the  house  the  crocus  is  only  valuable 
as  an  early  flower,  its  blooms  being  fugitive.  A  few, 
however,  planted  with  other  bulbs,  produce  a  pretty  effect. 

The  soil  should  be  one  part  loam,  one  part  sand,  and 
water  should  be  sparingly  given.  Otherwise  treat  as 
hyacinths. 

Varieties. 

Sir  Walter  Scott.    Variegated.  Grootverst.    White. 

David  Rizzio.    Blue.  Othello.     Very  dark  purple. 

Scotch.    Yellow.  Large  Yellow. 

La    Majestueuse.      "White  and           Grand  Lilas,    Lilac, 

violet*  Albion.    Violet. 

Caroline.    White.  Queen  Victoria.    White. 
17 


194  DUTCH   BULBS. 


THE    SNOWDROP. 

Well  known  dwarf,  hardy,  and  pretty  bulbs.  They 
succeed  well  in  the  house,  but  a  large  number  must  be 
planted  in  a  pot  to  make  a  display. 

Soil,  loam  and  sand. 

There  are  two  varieties,  single  and  double ;  the  former 
is  the  prettier. 

The  large  Crimean  Snowdrop  (Galanthus  plicatus)  is 
very  pretty,  but  not  common. 

THE    IRIS. 

There  are  a  few  species  of  the  bulbous  Iris  which  do 
well  under  pot  culture.  The  varieties  of  English  Iris  (/. 
xiphioides)  are  tall  growers,  and  are  awkward  parlor 
plants. 

The  soil  required  is  a  sandy  loam ;  and,  while  showing 
bud  and  flower,  the  plants  should  be  freely  supplied  with 
water.  Treat  otherwise  the  same  as  a  hyacinth.  The 
bulbs  may  be  grown  very  prettily  in  glasses,  similar  to 
hyacinths. 

The  species  usually  grown  are, — 


DUTCH   BULBS.  195 

Iris  Xiphium,  the  Spanish  Iris.  With  showy  flowers  of  purple  yel- 
low, and  {heir  shades.  Grows  about  eighteen  inches  high.  Flowers 
late  in  the  spring. 

Iris  Xiphioides,  the  English  Iris.  With  tall  stems,  and  large,  showy 
flowers,  somewhat  resembling  the  last. 

Iris  Persica,  or  Persian  Iris.  A  little  gem.  Very  dwarf.  Well 
adapted  for  forcing.  Flowers  vary  from  delicate  to  deep  blue.  Soil 
very  sandy.  Requires  plenty  of  water.  Does  well  under  pot  culture, 
in  loam,  sand,  or  moss,  or  in  water. 


THE    JONQUIL. 

This  plant  is  a  species  of  Narcissus  (N.  jonquilla)  and  is 
a  native  of  Spain.  There  ^are  two  varieties,  the  single 
and  double,  both  valuable  for  parlor  plants.  They  bear 
forcing  well,  always  bloom,  and  their  flowers  are  delight- 
fully fragrant. 

They  should  be  treated  as  hyacinths,  only  two  or  three 
bulbs  may  be  planted  in  a  pot.  The  soil  should  be  rich 
loam  and  leaf  mould,  with  a  little  sand.  There  is  no  bulb 
of  easier  growth ;  they  may  be  bloomed  any  month ; 
flowers  yellow. 

There  are  florists'  varieties. 


19(3  DUTCH   BULBS. 


THE    NARCISSUS. 

This  is  a  large  family  of  hardy  bulbs,  of  easiest  cul- 
ture. 

The  principal  varieties  worthy  of  house  cultivation  are 
those  known  as  the  Roman  and  Polyanthus  Narcissus. 

Great  quantities  of  these  are  annually  imported  from 
Holland.  They  require,  in  every  respect,  the  same  treat- 
ment as  the  hyacinth,  and  will  do  well  in  any  light,  rich 
soil,  or  may  be  bloomed  in  glasses,  in  which  case  the 
water  must  be  changed  once  a  week. 

The  bulbs  are  large,  and  strong  growers ;  they  have 
grassy  or  leek-like  leaves  ;  the  flower  stem  comes  up  in 
the  centre,  and,  from  a  sheath  at  the  top,  bursts  at  one 
side  the  bunch  of  flowers,  which  are  white  or  yellow, 
with  orange,  white,  or  yellow  cups.  They  are  very 
fragrant,  and  continue  in  perfection  a  long  time.  The 
pots  should  be  large,  as  the  roots  are  numerous  and 
strong.  Give  plenty  of  water  during  the  growing  and 
flowering  season. 

The  Roman  Narcissus  is  esteemed  for  its  early  flower- 
ing ;  it  is  usually  in  bloom  about  Christmas.  The  single 
variety  is  yellowish  white ;  the  double,  cream  color.  The 


DUTCH   BULBS.  197 

paper- white  Narcissus  (N.  papyraceus]  produces  very  pretty 
pure  white  flowers. 

The    following    are   varieties    of    the    Polyanthus    Nar- 
cissus :  — 

Bazelman  Major.    White  and  yellow. 
Grand  Monarque.    "White  and  citron. 
Grand  Primo.    White  and  citron. 
Grand  Prince.    White  and  lemon. 
Soleil  d'Or.    Yellow  and  orange. 


ERE,  there,  every  where. 
Offering  up  eternal  prayer 

To  the  skies: 

Thus  may  we  a  lesson  learn, — 
Sun  or  rain  some  good  discern; 
Thus  to  Heaven  forever  turn' 
Prayerful  eyes. 


CHAPTER     IX. 
THE   CULTURE   OF   THE   TUBE   ROSE. 

History.  —  Causes  of  Failure.  —  Potting.  —  Manure.  —  Selection  and  Prep- 
aration of  Bulbs.  -  Treatment  of  Flower.  —  Planting  for  Succession. 
—  Single  and  Double  Varieties. 

(198) 


THE  CULTURE  OF  THE  TUBE  ROSE.       199 

1 OW  can  I  Uoom  my  Tube  Roses  ? 
They  grow  well,  they  produce 
abundance  of  foliage,  healthy 
as  could  be  desired,  but  no 
flowers.  Yet  their  culture  is 
very  easy.  They  will  bloom  freely  with 
but  little  care  ;  yet  you  must  learn  hoiu 
to  do  it ;  and  this  secret  was  commu- 
nicated to  us  a  few  years  since  by  an 
ardent  lover  of  this  beautiful  flower, 
who  proved  it  by  showing  us  spikes  of  bloom  with  from 
twenty  to  thirty  flowers.  The  tube  rose  is  a  native  of  the 
East  Indies,  and  was  introduced  about  the  year  1630.  It 
has  since  been  in  general  cultivation,  and  is  now  grown  in 
all  warm  climates  as  an  out-door  plant ;  with  us  it  will  not 
stand  the  winter.  Our  dried  roots  are  annually  imported 
from  Italy,  where  they  ripen  their  bulbs  in  the  open  air. 

The  great  want  of  success  in  growing  this  plant  is 
caused  by  too  poor  a  soil,  too  little  water,  and  too  little 
heat  at  the  root ;  the  plant  would  probably  bloom  were  the 
latter  need  supplied,  but  we  are  not  content  to  merely 
bloom  a  plant,  but  must  bloom  it  well. 

A  hot-bed  is  necessary  :   it  may  be  of  the  simplest  kind, 


200       THE  CULTURE  OF  THE  TUBE  ROSE. 

the  heating  material  being  a  few  wheelbarrow  loads  of 
dung.  How  to  best  make  the  hot-bed  we  will  describe  in 
a  future  chapter. 

Now  suppose  the  heat  is  up  in  the  hot-bed,  and  we  have 
selected  tubers  as  soon  as  opened  by  the  importer,  thus 
securing  the  strongest  and  best-grown  roots,  known  by  the 
size,  and  firmness  even  to  the  top,  and  the  absence  of  off- 
sets or  their  marks,  being  sure  that  there  is  no  old  blossom 
stalk,  evidence  of  exhaustion.  Time,  about  the  first  of 
April ;  prepare  seven-inch  pots,  with  the  usual  drainage  ;  we 
prefer  charcoal  to  any  thing  else ;  over  this  place  about  four 
inches  of  old,  dry  cow  manure,  picked  up  in  the  pasture, 
and  preserved  for  future  use  (the  older  the  better),  broken 
fine,  but  not  sifted. 

Then  fill  the  pot  nearly  full  of  a  compost  of  nearly  equal 
parts  of  sand,  loam,  peat,  and  last  year's  hot-bed,  with  a 
slight  admixture  of  charcoal  dust ;  then  prepare  the  roots 
by  removing  the  outer  scale  or  coating,  so  as  to  detect 
embryo  offsets.  These  carefully  remove  with  a  knife,  or 
the  thumb  nail,  so  as  to  lessen  future  operations  of  that 
kind.  This  done,  plunge  them  in  the  compost,  just  cov- 
ering them  from  sight,  and  then  fill  the  pot  with  spent  bark 
or  tan,  and  plunge  the  pot  to  the  rim  in  the  tan,  which,  by 


THE  CULTURE  OP  THE  TUBE  ROSE.       201 

the  way,  we  deem  the  very  best  material  in  which  to  plunge 
pots  in  the  hot-bed,  retaining  well  the  heat  and  moisture, 
and,  withal,  pleasant  to  work  in.  Soon,  they  begin  to 
strike  root,  and  the  foliage  to  show  its  tips ;  then  give 
slight  waterings,  until  indications  of  "spindling"  appear; 
then  increase  the  water  so  much  as  to  solve,  to  some 
extent,  the  broken  manure,  and  thereby  allow  of  consolida- 
tion, by  firm  pressure  upon  the  top  surface ;  watch  closely 
for  offsets,  and,  as  they  appear,  split  them  off  by  inserting 
the  thumb  between  them  and  the  parent,  thus  keeping  the 
strength  where  it  is  wanted.  The  best  practice  is  to  retain 
them  in  the  pots,  and  keep  the  pots  together  in  the  hot- 
bed, unless  they  become  so  tall  as  to  interfere  with  the 
sashes.  Keeping  them  in  pots  is  preferable  to  turning 
them  out,  not  only  because  thus  the  supply  of  water  can 
be  controlled,  but  because  they  can  be  moved  at  pleasure. 
When  blossoms  begin  to  appear,  remove  them  to  an  arbor, 
or  any  sheltered  place,  to  secure  shade  to  some  extent,  and 
thus  preserve  the  natural  delicacy  of  the  flowers.  On  the 
approach  of  frosty  weather,  they  can  be  housed  without  the 
shock  they  would  suffer  from  "  lifting  and  potting."  If 
kept  neatly  tied  to  rods,  they  are  not  unacceptable  in  the 
parlor. 


202       THE  CULTURE  OF  THE  TUBE  ROSE. 

By  a  succession  of  plantings,  a  long  season  of  bloom  is 
secured.  By  planting  on  the  eighth  and  twenty-fifth  of 
April,  and  the  twelfth  of  May,  one  may  have  an  uninter- 
rupted season  of  bloom  from  the  twentieth  of  July  to  the 
tenth  of  November. 

Who  shall  say  the  end  does  not  warrant  the  means  ?  Is 
any  one  unwilling  to  devote  the  amount  of  labor  to  the 
culture  of  so  delightful  an  exotic  ?  Truly  there  is  no 
flower  which,  with  little  trouble,  will  yield  so  large  a  re- 
turn of  beauty  and  fragrance.  The  bulbs  generally  sold 
in  the  seed  stores  are  the  double-flowered  variety.  That 
with  single  flowers  is  far  more  beautiful  and  equally  fra- 
grant ;  it  is  not  so  tall  a  grower,  and  its  foliage  is  more 
graceful ;  it  is,  however,  far  from  common. 

After  the  bulbs  have  flowered,  it  is  the  best  course  to 
throw  them  away,  procuring  fresh  each  spring.  Our 
climate  is  too  uncertain  to  insure  a  proper  ripening  of 
the  bulb. 

Offsets  bloom  the  third  year. 

The  price  of  the  bulbs  in  the  seed  stores  is  a  dollar  and 
a  half  a  dozen ;  they  may,  however,  be  imported  for  two 
dollars  and  forty  cents  per  hundred,  costing,  with  charges, 
about  three  cents  each. 


O  comfort  man,  to  whisper  hope, 

Whene'er  his  faith  is  dim, 
That  he  who  careth  for  the  flowers 
Will  much  more  care  for  him. 


CHAPTER    X. 

THE   GLADIOLUS    AND   ITS    CULTURE. 
History.—  Species.  —  Culture.  —  Varieties. 

THERE  is  no  bulb  which  has  so  rapidi/  grown  into  favor, 
or  so  much  improved  by  hybridization,  as  the  Gladiolus. 
A  few  years  since,  it  was  comparatively  rare ;  we  had  a 
few  varieties,  but  they  were  little  noticed,  and  excited  little 

(203) 


204  THE   GLADIOLUS   AND   ITS   CULTURE. 

attention.  But  the  results  of  the  last  few  years,  since  it 
has  received  more  careful  culture,  and  since  the  fine  new 
varieties  have  been  introduced,  have  been  wonderful ;  and 
at  the  present  time  there  is  probably  no  one  class  of 
plants  which  promises  better  for  the  future,  not  only  in 
Europe  but  also  in  this  country,  than  the  Gladiolus. 

There  are  three  species  of  gladiolus  (G.  Byzantinus, 
communis,  and  roseus),  which  are  tolerably  hardy,  and  if 
once  planted  in  the  open  borders  will  flower  well  year  after 
year,  requiring  little  attention.  Bulbs  of  these  varieties 
should  be  planted  in  November,  and  need  no  protection. 
Perhaps,  however,  it  is  better  to  throw  some  loose  litter 
over  the  bed,  as  Eoseus  is  often  winter-killed.  .Plant  the 
bulbs  in  little  clumps,  four  or  five  together ;  they  will 
flower  finely  the  next  spring,  and  need  no  further  care. 
The  bulb  must,  however,  be  planted  deep  enough  to  protect 
it  from  severe  frosts,  and  to  prevent  its  being  thrown  out 
of  the  ground. 

G.  Cardinalis  was  first  introduced  into  this  country 
about  the  year  1835  ;  it  was  for  a  time  very  rare,  but  can 
now  be  easily  procured.  It  is  a  native  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  and  in  England  receives  the  same  attention 
and  culture  as  the  rest  of  the  so-called  "  Cape  bulbs  ;"  but 


THE   GLADIOLUS   AND   ITS   CULTURE.  205 

we  must  give  a  different  treatment  to  grow  it  in  perfection 
out  of  doors.  As  a  pot  plant  it  is  of  the  easiest  culture  — 
light  and  air  are  essential ;  care  must  also  be  taken  to  keep 
off  the  red  spider,  which  infests  all  plants  of  this  class. 
The  soil  in  which  it  thrives  most  is  a  compost  of  about 
three  parts  of  sandy  loam  to  one  of  leaf  mould ;  do  not 
pulverize  the  earth,  as  it  is  apt  to  become  sodden  by  water- 
ing, and  thus  prevent  a  free  development  of  the  roots.  The 
plants  intended  for  the  border  should  be  started  in  pots  in 
the  house,  for  our  season  is  scarcely  long  enough  for  their 
full  development  and  the  proper  ripening  of  the  bulb. 
Keep  them  in  a  cool  place  until  the  end  of  May,  when  they 
may  be  turned  into  a  border  of  prepared  soil ;  they  will 
soon  show  bloom,  for  in  their  native  climate  they  are  of 
rapid  growth.  As  soon  as  the  leaves  decay,  take  up  the 
bulbs  and  dry  them;  moisture  or  frost  are  fatal,  so  care 
must  be  exercised.  Keep  in  the  dry  state  till  the  bulbs 
show  signs  of  activity,  when  they  must  be  immediately 
planted,  for  attempting  to  retard  their  growth  in  a  dry  state 
greatly  injures  the  bulb. 

The  color  of  G.  Cardinalis  is  scarlet  and  white.     It  is  a 
beautiful  species,  but  of  very  weak  growth,  and  is  not  pop- 
18 


206  THE  GLADIOLUS   AND   ITS   CULTURE. 

ular,  being  entirely  cast  into  the  shade  by  larger,  stronger- 
growing  species. 

GLADIOLUS  RACEMOSUS.  Beautiful  rose,  marked  with 
white  and  carmine.  The  bulbs  are  much  smaller  than 
those  of  the  varieties  to  be  described,  but  some  of  the 
beautiful  hybrids  are  well  worthy  of  cultivation.  The 
treatment  given  above  for  Cardinalis  will  do  well  for  all  the 
varieties  of  Racemosus,  though,  if  strong  bulbs  are  procured, 
they  will  bloom  well  if  planted  in  the  open  border  about  the 
last  of  May.  The  growth  is  far  stronger  than  that  of  Car- 
dinalis, and  some  of  the  hybrid  varieties  are  very  beautiful. 
We  annex  a  list  of  a  few  of  the  most  desirable,  but  doubt 
whether  they  can  be  procured  in  any  quantity  in  this 
country  :  — 

GLADIOLUS  RACEMOSUS  FORMOSISSIMUS.  Magnificent 
scarlet. 

QUEEN  VICTORIA.     Red,  with  white  and  carmine  border. 

OSCAR.     Brilliant  scarlet,  spotted  with  white  ;  choice. 
•LOUD  GREY.     Vermilion,  spotted  with  violet  and  white. 

LORD  PALMERSTON.  Vermilion,  distinct  carmine  spots, 
violet  and  white. 

LORD  JOHN  RUSSELL.  Clear  vermilion,  large,  bordered 
with  lake  and  carmine  ;  choice. 


THE   GLADIOLUS   AND   ITS   CULTURE.  207 

WILHELMUS.  Vermilion,  bright,  spotted  with  white  and 
violet. 

GLADIOLUS  PSITTACINUS.  Originally  called  Natalensis, 
from  Natal,  its  native  country,  was  but  a  few  years  since 
one  of  our  most  popular  and  admired  species.  Its  colors 
are  yellow,  red,  and  green,  and  it  blooms  profusely  in  the 
open  border  with  little  care ;  it  will  nourish  in  almost  any 
soil,  and  instances  have  been  known  of  its  surviving  our 
winters.  Plant  in  May,  and  take  up  after  the  leaves  have 
been  killed  by  the  frost.  This  once  generally  admired 
species  is  now  little  esteemed  in  comparison  with  G.  gan- 
davensis  and  its  hybrids,  but,  nevertheless,  is  \vell  worthy  a 
place  in  the  garden,  as  its  bulbs  increase  rapidly,  and  are 
of  the  simplest  culture ;  seeds  are  also  produced  in  profu- 
sion, and  seedlings  flower  the  third  year. 

GLADIOLUS  FLOKIBUNDUS,  or  (from  the  position  of  its 
flowers)  OPPOSITIFLORUS.  A  most  beautiful  variety  ;  color, 
shaded  rose,  pink,  or  white.  The  flowers  are  very  delicate, 
and  produced  in  long,  crowded  spikes.  The  growth  is 
stronger  than  any  of  the  species  we  have  previously  de- 
scribed, except  Natalensis,  and  the  bulb  smaller,  and  does 
not  increase  so  readily.  Cultivate  as  directed  for  G.  Nata- 
lensis, though,  if  a  rich  soil  is  given,  the  flowers  are  larger 


208  THE   GLADIOLUS   AND    ITS   CULTURE. 

and  the  spikes  more  numerous.  One  of  the  most  beautiful 
features  of  our  garden  this  last  summer  have  been  two 
large  beds  of  this  species  and  G.  Gandavensis. 

GLADIOLUS  GANDAVENSIS.  A  very  striking  species ; 
color,  superb  orange  and  yellow.  This  variety  was  raised 
as  a  seedling  by  Van  Houtte,  and  derives  its  name  from  the 
town  of  Gand  (Ghent).  It  is  stated  to  be  a  hybrid  be- 
tween Cardinalis  and  Psittacinus  ;  but  Rev.  Mr.  Herbert,  of 
Spofforth,  England,  probably  the  best  authority  on  bulbous 
plants,  very  much  doubted  the  truth  of  this  assertion.  For 
a  long  time  he  experimented,  crossing  those  two  varieties, 
but  was  never  able  to  obtain  any  seedlings.  At  the  present 
time  it  would  be  useless  to  revive  this  question  pr  attempt 
its  discussion  ;  it  might,  however,  be  interesting  to  know 
the  truth,  for  certain  it  is  to  this  species  we  owe  all  the 
magnificent  varieties  we  shall  soon  describe,  and  many 
more  none  the  less  beautiful. 

The  culture  of  Gandavensis  is  very  easy :  prepare  a  well- 
manured  bed ;  plant  the  bulbs  three  fourths  of  a  foot  apart 
each  way,  and  two  inches  deep  ;  stake  carefully,  and  the 
bloom  will  be  magnificent ;  give  them  the  full  benefit  of 
the  sun,  for,  if  shaded,  they  do  not  succeed.  A  single  bulb 
Nvill  often  give  two  or  three  stems  of  bloom,  and  a  succes- 


THE  GLADIOLUS  AND  ITS  CULTURE.       209 

sion  of  flowers  will  be  produced  for  two  months.  In  winter 
keep  the  bulbs  from  frost.  Seed  is  freely  produced,  and 
hybridization  between  this  and  other  varieties  easily 
effected.  The  growth  of  this  species  and  its  hybrids  is 
very  vigorous  ;  the  plants  require  staking,  otherwise  they 
are  liable  to  be  broken  by  the  wind. 

PROPAGATION  or  THE  GLADIOLUS  BY  SEED. 

The  Gladiolus  may  be  propagated  by  seed ;  the  sowing 
should  be  in  the  fall,  as  soon  as  the  seeds  are  gathered,  or 
during  the  months  of  January  and  February,  March  and 
April,  in  a  peaty  soil,  in  a  frame  covered  with  glass  to  ex- 
clude the  frost,  or  in  pots  or  pans  well  drained,  and  filled 
with  fresh  peat ;  the  seeds  should  be  scarcely  covered. 
The  pots  in  which  the  seeds  are  sown  should  be  placed 
in  the  green-house  or  in  a  frame. 

When  the  plants  appear,  and  the  rays  of  the  sun  are  too 
strong,  shade  them ;  place  them  in  large  pans,  and  give 
them  air,  in  order  to  make  them  strong.  When,  in  the 
month  of  May,  the  weather  is  fine  and  settled,  remove  the 
frames  which  sheltered  the  seed  in  the  open  borders,  or  re- 
pot, and  place  the  pots  of  young  plants  in  the  open  ground, 
so  that  the  first  year  they  may  make  the  greatest  possible 


210      THE  GLADIOLUS  AND  ITS  CULTURE. 

growth.  When  the  leaves  begin  to  grow  yellow,  take  up, 
with  care,  the  small  bulbs,  and  preserve  them  in  a  dry, 
secure  place.  The  next  spring  plant  them  again  in  the 
open  border,  at  a  distance  proportioned  to  their  strength. 
The  care  to  be  given  during  the  winter  is  the  same  as  that 
which  old  bulbs  require.  The  third  year  the  greater  part 
of  them  will  show  bloom. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  fine  varieties  of  this  species, 
with  colors.  Most  of  them  may  be  obtained  for  about 
three  to  four  dollars  per  dozen. 


Mrs.  Haqitin.    Light  straw  color,  marked  with  rosy  purple. 

Pline.     Cherry,  marbled  with  darker  shades. 

Eugene  Damage.     Dark,  velvety  red,  with  white  markings. 

Helene.    Pink  and  salmon  ;  yellowish  marking. 

Rebecca.     White,  blotched  with  pink. 

Mon.  Vinchon.    Rosy  cherry. 

Aristotle.    Rose,  marbled  with  rosy  red. 

Calendulaceus.    Brilliant  salmon  yellow. 

Jeanne  d?  Arc.    Pure  white  ;  rose-tipped  petals. 

Egerie.     Rosy  pink,  marbled  with  rosy  red. 

Ninon  d'  UEnclos.     Rosy  pink,  shading  to  white. 

Don  Juan.    Deep  red,  with  faint  white  lines. 

Vesta.     Pure  white,  with  purple  lines. 

Brenchlcyensis.    Deep,  blazing  scarlet. 

Daphne.     Rose,  marked  with  scarlet. 

Pluton.    Clear  red,  shading  to  pure  white. 

Isoline.    White,  shading  to  pink. 


THE  GLADIOLUS   AND   ITS   CULTURE.  211 

Madame  de  Vatry.    White  or  straw  color. 

Clemence.     White,  stained  with  currant. 

Archimedes.    Rosy  red. 

Celine.    Rosy  white,  with  amaranthine  lines. 

Ophir.    Straw  color,  mottled  with  purple. 

Janire.     Cherry,  with  white. 

Lelia.    Pink,  with  white  shadings. 

Princess  Clothilde.    Rose,  with  cherry  markings. 

Le  Poussin.    Bright  cherry  anff  pure  white. 

La  Quintanie.     Peach  cherry. 

Rembrandt.    Vivid  scarlet. 

Raphael.    Deep  cherry,  lighted  with  white. 

Calypso.    Pink  and  flesh-colored. 

Imperatrice,  or  Empress.    White,  marked  with  pale  pink. 

Premice  de  Mont  Rouge.    Dark  scarlet. 

Berenice.    Salmon  pink. 

Penelope.     Rosy  white. 

Fanny  Rouget.     Carmine  and  flesh  color. 

Goliah.    Rosy  cherry. 

Sulphureus.     Sulphur  yellow. 

Napoleon  III.    Vivid  scarlet ;  white  centre. 

Vetteda.     Bright  pink. 

Hebe.    Clear  rose. 

Vukain.    Dark,  lustrous  scarlet. 

Count  de  Morny.    Deep  cherry  crimson,  white  lines. 

Nemesis.     Cherry,  clouded  with  white. 

Lord  Campbell.     Splendid  yellow. 

Surprise.    Clear,  currant  red. 

The  above  list  may  seem  large,  but  the  difficulty  is  what 
to  reject ;  it  might  easily  be  doubled,  and  yet  all  be  splen- 
did varieties. 


212      THE  GLADIOLUS  AND  ITS  CULTURE. 

For  a  dozen  choice  varieties  choose  Surprise,  Lord  Camp, 
bell,  Vulcain,  Pluton,  Celine,  Ophir,  La  Quintanie,  Raphael, 
Rembrandt,  Isoline,  Jeanne  d'Arc,  Princess  Clothilde,  and 
Count  de  Morny.  For  the  same  number  of  cheaper  sorts  : 
Penelope,  Goliah,  Aristotle,  Empress,  Janire,  Nemesis, 
Hebe,  Fanny  Rouget,  Sulphureus,  Archimedes,  Vesta, 
Don  Juan. 

The  following  should  be  in  every  collection,  however 
small :  Count  "  de  Morny,  La  Poussin,  Brenchleyensis, 
Vesta,  Penelope,  Hebe,  Pluton,  Calypso,  Vulcain,  Madame 
de  Vatry. 

New  varieties  are  yearly  produced,  and  there  are  many 
promising  American  seedlings. 


RESH  beauty  all  around  our  paths, 

If  but  our  watchful  eyes 
Would  trace  it,  'mid  familiar  things, 
And  through  their  lowly  guise. 


CHAPTER    XI. 


HOW  TO   FORCE   FLOWERS   TO    BLOOM   IN   WINTER. 


VIOLETS.— POLYANTHUS.  — DAISIES.  — PAXSIES.  — LILY  OF  THE  VALLEY 
—-HEPATICA.— FLOWERING  SHRUBS. 

(213) 


214 


HOW   TO    FORCE   FLOWERS   IN   WINTER. 


HEAT   pleasure    may  be    experienced 
in  forcing  plants  to  bloom  in  winter, 
though  it  is  one  of  the  most  difficult 
departments  of  Horticulture  in  which 
to  achieve  success.     There  are  many 
flowers   which    resist    all    attempts, 
while  others  do  but  poorly,  and  others  again 
well  repay  the  care  required. 

THE    VIOLET. 

This  little  spring  flower,  always  a  favorite,  from  its  grace 
and  delicate  fragrance,  can  be  bloomed  successfully  during 
the  winter  months,  and  this  Avith  but-  little  expense. 

Let  the  season  be  the  last  of  August ;  procure  a  frame 
of  rough  plank,  about  four  feet  long  by  three  wide,  and 
sloping  from  one  foot  to  eighteen  inches  in  height.  On 
each  side,  from  top  to  bottom,  nail  two  narrow  strips  of 
wood,  letting  them  stand  about  an  inch  above  the  top  of 
the  frame.  Fit  on  to  the  frame,  so  as  to  slide  between 
the  strips,  a  glass  sash ;  the  cost  of  the  whole  will  be  about 
three  dollars.  If  our  violets  have  been  properly  divided  in 
the  spring,  and  planted  out  in  a  rich,  loamy,  damp  spot,  we 


HOW   TO    FORCE   FLOWERS   IN   WINTER.  215 

have  now  plenty  of  plants,  each  about  six  inches  in 
diameter.  If  we  do  not  have  them,  they  can  be  obtained 
of  any  florist  for  about  a  dollar  a  dozen. 

Prepare  a  bed  the  size  of  your  frame,  of  rich,  decom- 
posed manure  and  leaf  mould,  and  plant  the  violets  in 
clumps,  as  many  as  the  bed  will  hold,  about  six  inches 
between  each  clump.  This  bed  may  be  below  the  surface 
of  the  surrounding  soil,  or  on  a  level.  Allow  the  plants 
to  grow  in  the  bed  thus  prepared  until  about  the  first  of 
November,  when  the  nights  get  frosty ;  then  put  your  frame 
over  the  bed ;  fill  in  over  the  plants  with  dry  leaves,  and 
put  on  the  sash.  The  bed  should  be  in  a  place  where  no 
standing  water  will  settle  in  winter  ;  and,  in  the  prepara- 
tion, if  the  soil  be  naturally  wet,  it  may  be  better  to  fill  in 
a  few  inches  of  the  bottom  with  small  stones,  to  secure 
drainage.  The  earth  should  be  banked  up  around  the 
frame  before  the  ground  freezes,  as  thus  the  inside  of  the 
bed  will  be  warmer.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the  frame 
is  tight  and  well  banked,  or  you  may  have  provided  a 
winter  domicil  for  field  mice,  to  the  destruction  of  your 
violets.  About  a  week  before  the  violets  are  wanted,  open 
the  frame,  remove  the  leaves,  and  expose  the  plants 
to  full  light.  The  bed  should  face  the  south  —  that 


216     HOW  TO  FORCE  FLOWERS  IN  WINTER. 

is,  the  inclination  of  the  frame  should  be  in  that 
direction. 

Have  some  straw  mats,  board  shutters,  or  other  warm 
covering  (the  mats  are  the  best),  with  which  to  cover  the 
frame  at  night,  and  on  cold,  stormy  days. 

This  mat  should  be  removed  on  pleasant  days,  unless 
very  cold  —  for  the  more  light  the  better  flowers — and  on 
warm,  cloudy  days.  Guard  against  frost,  and  on  very 
cold  days  the  beds  should  not  be  uncovered ;  it  is  neces- 
sary to  preserve  the  heat  as  much  as  possible,  as  bur  ojily 
reliance  is  on  that  obtained  from  the  sun. 

The  violets,  in  planting,  should  be  about  four  inches 
from  the  glass;  if  the  beds  are  deeper,  your  bloom  will 
not  be  so  early,  though  the  flowers,  by  being  drawn,  will 
have  longer  stems. 

With  good  weather,  the  flowers  will  begin  to  open  from 
three  days  to  a  week  after  being  uncovered.  Every  sunny 
day  they  will  come  forward  wonderfully,  and  with  a  few 
frames,  there  need  not  be  a  day,  from  January  to  May, 
when  you  cannot  gather  a  bunch  of  violets.  The  plants 
will  require  but  little  water,  unless  the  earth  becomes  dried 
by  the  heat  of  the  sun  ;  if  kept  too  wet,  the  plants  will  mould 
and  rot.  When  the  spring  opens,  and  the  plants  have  done 


HOW  TO   FORCE  PLANTS   IN  WINTER.  217 

blooming,  take  them  up,  divide  them,  —  every  piece  with  a 
root  will  make  a  plant,  —  and  set  them  in  a  damp,  sheltered 
spot  in  the  garden,  to  make  plants  for  the  next  autumn. 
Put  away  the  frame  and  sash  in  a  dry  place,  for  fu- 
ture use. 

A  good  plan  is  to  have  the  beds  laid  in  masonry;  then 
they  are  permanent,  and  require  only  to  be  filled  in  with 
compost  and  planted. 

A  wooden  frame  will,  however,  with  care,  last  from  three 
to  five  years. 

The  best  varieties   to  plant  are,  — 

The  SINGLE  ENGLISH.  This  is  very  early  and  fragrant, 
and  an  abundant  bloomer. 

The  DOUBLE  ENGLISH.     Dark  blue. 

The  DOUBLE  ENGLISH  WHITE  is  pretty,  but  forces 
badly,  usually  having  a  green  centre. 

The  DOUBLE  LIGHT  BLUE,  called  the  Neapolitan  Violet. 

It  is  not  well  to  mix  the  varieties  in  the  same  bed, 
as  they  come  to  perfection  at  different  times. 

THE    POLYANTHUS. 

This  variety  of  the  Primrose,  commonly  called  Cowslip, 
may  be  bloomed  in  the  same  way  as  violets. 
19 


218  HOW   TO   FORCE   PLANTS   IN    WINTER. 

The  plants  thrive  best  in  a  heavy,  loamy  soil.  A  good 
way  to  grow  them  is  to  plant  them  in  pots,  and  set  the 
pots  in  a  cold  frame,  as  above  described,  filling  in  all 
around  the  pots  with  fine  coal  ashes,  and  covering  with 
leaves,  as  above  directed.  They  can  then  be  forced  into 
bloom  in  the  frame,  or  the  pots,  when  wanted,  be  removed 
to  the  green-house  or  conservatory.  They  are  impatient 
of  damp,  therefore  give  little  water. 

The  best  way  to  procure  a  stock,  unless  one  wishes  fine- 
named  florists'  varieties,  is  to  sow  the  seed  in  spring,  in 
fine  soil,  and  prick  the  plants  out  during  the  summer  ; 
then  pot  about  the  first  of  September. 

The  plants  bloom  in  the  frame  from  March  to  May. 

Fine  named  varieties  may  be  procured  of  florists. 

THE    DAISY. 

These  pretty  little  plants  may  be  grown  as  Polyanthus, 
and  will  give  a  profusion  of  flower  in  spring. 

There  are  many  varieties,  — red,  white,  variegated,  pink, 
with  single,  double,  and  quilled  flowers,  and  with  green  and 
variegated  leaves.  A  common  garden  loam  suits  them 
well;  water  but  little  until  the  plants  begin  to  grow. 


HOW  TO   FORCE  PLANTS  IN  WINTER.  219 

THE    PANSY. 

This  pretty  species  of  Violet  is  seldom  grown  in  this 
country  in  perfection.  Our  climate  is  too  dry,  our  summer 
suns  too  hot,  and  the  flowers  grow  small,  and  we  never  see 
the  fine,  large  flowers  which  English  florists  are  so  proud 
of.  In  spring  and  autumn  we  get  large  pansies,  but  all 
through  the  summer  the  .flowers  are  sure  to  be  small. 

Our  winters  are  often  very  severe  on  this  flower,  and  it  is 
no  uncommon  thing  to  have  the  whole  bed  winter-killed. 
They  succeed  best  when  covered  with  snow  during  the 
whole  winter. 

In  a  frame,  however,  these  flowers  may  be  rmccerfsfully 
cultivated. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  in  July  or  August,  and  tho 
plants  pricked  out  into  a  bed  in  a  moist  sheltered  spot  in 
the  flower  garden.  About  the  middle  of  October,  when 
the  plants  have  become  sizable,  pot  them,  one  in  a  pot, 
and  treat  them  as  directed  for  polyanthus. 

They  will  bloom  from  the  middle  of  April  all  through 
the  summer. 

The  soil  should  be  a  rich  loarrx. 

Only  water    wh'~i?    tb      ylt*ntc    become    dry,  und    then 


220  HOW   TO    FORCE   PLANTS   IN   WINTER. 

only  in  sunny  weather,  as  the  plants  are  liable  to  damp 
off. 

The  only  insect  attacking  the  pansy  is  the  green  fly, 
which  is  easily  removed  by  fumigation. 

The  fine  varieties  may  be  propagated  by  cuttings  of  the 
young  shoots,  which  root  freely  in  sandy  loam,  under  a  bell 

glass. 

THE    LILY    OF    THE    VALLEY. 

The  Convallaria  majalis,  or  Lily  of  the  Valley,  is  now 
an  old  inhabitant  of  our  gardens,  and  still  very  generally 
admired,  on  account  of  the  delicious  fragrance  of  its 
beautiful  bell-shaped  flowers.  As  a  companion  to  the 
crocus,  snowdrops,  hyacinths,  and  other  early  flowering 
bulbs,  it  well  merits  every  attention.  To  have  it  in  flower 
about  Christmas,  the  tubers  should  be  taken  up  from  the 
garden  about  the  middle  of^November,  or  at  latest  the 
third  week.  The  tubers  should  not  be  less  than  three 
.years  old ;  if  more,  all  the  better.  The  little  tubers  of 
the  Lily  of  the  Valley  are  of  two  kinds,  those  with  sharp- 
pointed  buds,  and  those  with  thick,  blunt  buds.  The 
former  produce  leaves  only,  the  latter  flowers. 

Now,  in  choosing  for  forcing,  take  the  bluntest  and 
fullest  buds  you  can  find,  for  it  is  important  every  bud 


HOW   TO    FORCE   PLANTS   IN   WINTER.  221 

should  give  a  flower.  Previous  to  potting,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  decide  how  they  are  afterwards  to  be  disposed 
of  when  in  flower ;  they  may  be  placed  in  fancy  wire  or 
wicker  baskets,  or  in  ornamental  vases. 

If  it  is  intended  to  remove  the  tubers  when  in  flower, 
wrap  a  little  bit  of  moss  round  each,  and  then  pack  them 
away,  as  closely  as  possible,  in  pots,  or  what  is  still  better, 
long  boxes,  previously  filled  with  any  light,  porous  soil, 
the  tubers  inserted  just  deep  enough  in  the  soil  to 
slightly  cover  the  crowns.  Over  all,  place  a  good  thick 
layer  of  moss ;  it  assists  in  keeping  the  soil  and  tubers 
moist ;  and  lastly,  pots  or  boxes,  of  the  same  dimensions 
as  those  the  tubers  are  planted  in,  are  inverted  and  placed 
over  them,  so  as  to  keep  all  dark,  as  darkness  is  essential 
to  success.  The  boxes  are  then  removed  to  a  warm  place, 
where  they  can  be  supplied  with  a  little  bottom  heat  (a  pit 
or  the  cooler  end  of  the  green-house  flue  will  do),  which 
must  be  gentle  at  first,  but  may  be  gradually  increased  as 
the  plants  show  symptoms  of  active  growth.  Thus,  in 
three  or  four  weeks,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  treat- 
ment they  have  received,  they  will  be  abundantly  furnished 
with  their  exquisitely  scented  flowers.  They  may  then 
be  removed  with  the  greatest  facility,  on  account  of  the 
19* 


222  HOW   TO    FORCE   PLANTS   IN   WINTER. 

moss  in  which  each  tuber  is  enveloped,  and  transferred  to 
the  vases  or  baskets.  If  they  are  intended  to  remain  in 
flower  where  planted,  the  moss  may  be  dispensed  with, 
but  otherwise  the  treatment  is  the  same. 

The  plants  should  be  kept  in  the  dark  until  they  begin 
to  show  flower,  which  will  be  when  the  spikes  are  about 
six  inches  long.  The  boxes  or  pots  may  then  be  removed, 
and  the  plants  gradually  inured  to  the  sunlight,  when  the 
leaves  will  become  a  beautiful  green. 

Occasional  waterings  with  tepid  water  are  to  be  given, 
as  the  plants  when  once  fairly  started  into  growth  must  on 
no  account  be  allowed  to  become  dry. 

Other  plants  of  the  nature  of  the  Lily  of  'the  Valley, 
such  as  the  various  species  of  Convallaria,  Dielytra, 
Uvularia,  Sanguinaria  or  .Bloodroot,  may  be  forced  by 
similar  treatment. 

HEPATICA. 

The  different  varieties  of  Hepatica  (Squirrel  Cups)  may 
be  forced  as  directed  for  Polyanthus.  Some  of  the  double 
varieties,  with  their  lovely  red  and  blue  flowers,  beauti- 
fully imbricated,  are  among  the  most  desirable  flowers  for 
forcing,  a  pot  of  any  of  them  being  a  mass  of  bloom  for 


HOW   TO    FORCE   PLANTS   IN   WINTER.  223 

several  weeks.  They  are  also  among  the  earliest  spring 
flowers  in  the  open  border. 

Soil,  rich  loam  and  leaf  mould. 

Any  of  our  hardy  flowering  shrubs  may  be  forced  for 
the  conservatory  with  very  little  trouble.  Late  in  the 
autumn,  before  the  ground  freezes,  take  up  plants  of 
the  desired  kinds  with  a  ball  of  earth,  and  either  pot 
them,  or  set  them  away  in  a  cool,  dry  cellar. 

When  wanted  for  flower,  bring  them  into  the  light 
and  heat  of  the  conservatory,  potting  those  put  into 
the  cellar ;  water  freely,  and  in  a  few  weeks  they  will 
be  a  mass  of  bloom. 

The  most  suitable  plants  for  this  purpose  are  the 
early  blooming  spring  shrubs,  such  as  Weigela  rosea, 
ta  gracilis,  Spirea  prunifolia,  &c. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

BALCONY   GARDENING. 

Situation.  -  Arrangement.  -  What  to  plant.    CODE  A  SCAXDENS  :    Autumn 
Treatment. 

(224) 


BALCONY   GARDENING. 


225 


PLEASANT    summer    pastime,    in 
our  climate,  is   balcony  gardening. 
In  England,  very  pretty  winter  gar- 
dens are  fitted  up  in  the  balconies 
by  a  collection  of  fine  evergreens, 
such    as    variegated  •  Hollies,    Lau- 
restinus,    and   Acuba    Japonica,    but   none 
l  of  these  withstand   our  winter. 
Yv/*"  n  England,  they  never  have  such  burn- 

^J ^J  ing    sun   and    such    icy    cold    as    we  expe- 

rience; such  sudden  changes  of  temperature  as  occur  in 
our  climate  are  unknown,  and  many  of  the  inhabitants 
of  our  green-houses  are  there  hardy  plants.  It  is  not 
the  winter's  cold  which  kills  many  of  our  plants,  it  is 
the  sun.  The  plant  is  frozen  hard  by  a  zero  night ;  at 
morning,  the  sun  comes  out  warm,  and,  while  the  air 
around  may  be  cold,  the  plant  is  thawed ;  at  night,  it  is 
again  frozen ;  then  thawed.  Is  it  strange  the  plant  dies  ? 
Therefore  it  is  that  many  plants  will  grow  and  thrive  on 
the  north  side  of  your  house,  which,  on  the  south,  are 
winter-killed.  The  remedy  is  simple :  protect  from  the 
winter's  sun,  and  your  plants  will  not  be  winter-killed. 
In  this  climate  a  pretty  display  of  green  may  be  kept  up 


226  BALCONY   GARDENING. 

on  a  balcony  in  winter,  by  a  lot  of  small,  hardy  evergreens, 
such  as  white  and  pitch  pine,  hemlock,  and  spruce ;  but 
even  these,  on  a  sunny  exposure,  grow  dingy  and  suffer; 
therefore  we  say,  balcony  gardening  must  be  a  summer 
pastime. 

The  balcony  should  face  the  south  or  east,  so  as  to  ob- 
tain the  morning  sun :  there  are  few  flow.ers  which  succeed 
in  the  shade. 

Now,  we  may  either  grow  our  plants  in  pots,  or  fit  up  the 
balcony  with  neat  boxes ;  but  in  either  case  the  outside  of 
them  must  not  be  exposed  to  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  ;  it 
would  heat  and  parch  the  earth  so  nothing  would  succeed. 
A  good  way  to  prevent  this  is  to  make  a  board  lining  round 
the  inside,  and  fill  a  space  of  three  inches  with  straw,  tan, 
or  moss,  between  the  outside  and  your  boxes.  Fill  your 
boxes  with  a  rich  soil,  composed  of  one  part  loam,  two 
parts  leaf  mould,  two  parts  decomposed  manure.  Put  an 
inch  of  "  crocks,"  or  broken  pots,  in  the  bottom,  to  secure 
drainage,  and  have  a  few  augur  holes  in  the  bottom  of  each 
box  to  allow  the  surplus  water  to  drain  off.  Now,  the 
boxes  being  all  prepared,  and  the  season  the  first  of  May, 
what  shall  be  planted? 

Yet  first,  do  not  plant  too  much  ;  you  have  only  a  balcony, 


BALCONY   GARDENING.  227 

not  an  acre  lot,  therefore  be  content  with  a  few  good  plants, 
remembering  that  by  trying  to  grow  many  you  will  succeed 
with  none ;  each  plant  will  crowd  its  right  and  left  hand 
neighbor,  and  all  will  become  drawn  and  weak. 

If  your  balcony  is  small,  do  not  attempt  to  grow  shrubs, 
but  be  content  with  climbers  for  the  sides,  a  few  hardy 
herbaceous  plants,  and  annuals.  If  you  have  plenty  of 
room,  grow  as  much  as  you  can  without  crowding. 

Now,  as  we  said,  let  the  season  be  the  first  of  May,  and 
supposing  we  have  a  sizable  balcony,  all  fitted  with  boxes 
filled  with  prepared  soil,  what  shall  we  plant  ? 

First,  a  Weigela  rosea,  —  one  of  those  beautiful  exotic 
shrubs  introduced  from  China,  and  bearing,  in  June,  lovely 
bunches  of  pink  flowers  changing  to  white.  Let  us 'set 
this  in  one  outside  corner,  and  on  the  other  side,  to  match  it, 
plant  a  Spirea  prunifolia,  a  beautiful  species,  which,  about 
the  middle  of  May,  puts  on  an  emerald  jacket,  and  buttons 
it  with  innumerable  silver  white  buttons.  Let  us  now 
select  climbers  to  grow  up  over  the  window,  to  be  planted 
at  each  side,  close  to  the  wall  of  the  house.  We  need 
something  that  will  endure  the  hottest  sun  without  injury, 
for  our  wall  is  of  brick,  and  a  July  sun  against  a  brick  wall 
is  very  often  scorching.  It  will  be  too  hot  for  honeysuckles 


228  BALCONY   GARDENING. 

or  woody- climbers,  unless  we  shade  them  for  several  years, 
until  they  get  well  established,  and  can  cover  the  walls 
with  their  leaves.  Morning  Glories  would  suffer,  and  Nas- 
turtiums be  dried  up  by  the  heat.  We  must  have  a  stove 
climber,  or  certainly  one  which  will  endure  great  heat,  and 
there  is  just  the  plant  we  need,  and  very  common  too,  one 
withal  with  which  the  common  complaint  is  it  does  not 
flower.  We  can,  however,  flower  it,  and  if  the  season  be 
long,  ripen  seed,  for  we  have  what  it  needs,  heat. 

Let  us,  then,  get  two  or  more  plants  of  the  climbing 
Cobea  (C.  scandens).  It  is  better  to  buy  plants  than  raise 
seedlings  ;  you  thereby  gain  a  month.  The  plant  is  a  rank 
grower,  with  stout,  herbaceous  stems,  and  fine  thick  foliage, 
and"  produces  large,  purple  bell,  or  rather  cupped  flowers,  all 
summer.  These  flowers  are  very  showy,  and  with  plenty 
of  heat  color  finely.  Set  the  plants  in  a  rich  soil,  and  be 
sure  they  have  plenty  of  water  ;  they  are  rapid  growers, 
and  will,  in  luxuriance,  almost  equal  the  famous  bean  stalk 
of  the  fairy  tale. 

A  trellis  must  be  provided  ;  those  of  small  wire  are  the 
best.  Place  it  where  you  will,  the  cobea  will  follow,  for 
the  plant  grows  twenty  feet  in  a  season.  There  it  will 
bloom  and  hang  with  long  festoons  of  foliage,  gay  with 


BALCONY   GARDENING.  229 

purple  blossoms  and  fantastic  seeds.  But  give  plenty  of 
water ;  it  is  a  thirsty  plant,  and  in  a  situation  like  ours  will 
drink  largely.  The  first  frost  will,  however,  turn  it  black, 
so  if  we  want  the  permanent  climbers,  the  cobea  will 
prove  a  good  nurse  for  them.  Plant  them  with  the  cobea  ; 
it  will  shelter  them,  but  be  careful  not  to  let  it  kill  them  by 
its  exhausting  the  soil,  filling  the  box  with  roots,  or  twining 
around  them. 

Now,  we  need  climbers  for  the  sides  of  our  balcony,  and 
they  should  be  planted  C!OSD  to  the  outside  of  our  box,  and 
here  we  have  a  large  list  to  choose  from.  Maurandia  Bar- 
clayana,  with  blue,  foxglove  shaped  flowers,  is  a  little  gem 
of  a  twiner  ;  then  there  is  M.  rosea,  with  pink,  and  M. 
alba,  with  white  flowers.  These  should  be  raised  from 
cuttings,  or  plants  purchased.  Seedlings  do  not  bloom  till 
late,*  and  we  wish  flowers  all  summer. 

Then  we  have  the  large  family  of  Nasturtiums,  both  the 
large  and  small  flowered  varieties ;  these  all  do  well ;  then 
scarlet  beans,  morning  glories,  the  pretty  little  cypress  vine, 
the  canary  bird  flower  (Tropceolum  aduncum),  sweet  peas, 
and  that  pretty  vine  commonly  known  as  Madeira  vine, 
which  comes  from  tuberous  roots,  which  may  be  any  where 
procured. 

20 


230  BALCONY   GARDENING. 

In  fine,  any  of  our  annual  garden  climbers,  or  the  more 
tender  green-house  summer  bloomers,  such  as  Loasa,  Ca- 
lampelis,  Physianthus,  and  a  host  of  others,  will  succeed. 
To  fill  our  boxes  we  have  now  a  host  of  annuals,  biennials, 
and  herbaceous  plants  to  choose  from ;  and  here  we  are  at 
fault.  To  give  a  list  of  all  pretty  and  desirable,  would 
exceed  the  limits  of  this  work,  and  tastes  and  fancies  differ 
so  much  that  to  select  is  difficult.  Mignonette,  Indian 
Pinks,  Sweet  Allyssum,  Drummond's  Annual  Phlox,  and 
Nemophila,  will  please  all.  These  from  seed.  For  bedding 
plants,  Verbenas  and  Heliotropes,  and  if  you  have  room,  a 
scarlet  Salvia.  For  herbaceous  plants,  a  Larkspur  (D.  for- 
mosum  is  the  best),  Dielytra,  and  for  early  "spring  some 
clumps  of  dwarf  Iris,  and  a  plant  of  Bloodroot. 

We  must  find  room  for  a  few  of  the  fine  hybrid  Gladi- 
olus ;  if  we  can  have  but  two,  let  us  choose  Penelope  and 
Brenchleyensis  for  vigorous  growth  and  fine  contrasts  of 

* 

color.  Then  a  half  dozen  of  the  gay  Tiger  flower,  of  the 
two  species,  red  and  yellow,  (T.  pavonia  and  conchiflora) 
will  occupy  but  little  space,  and  make  a  fine  show. 

Now,  with  one  third  of  the  plants  we  have  mentioned, 
the  largest  balcony  would  be  overstocked,  and  with  a  judi- 
cious selection  all  will  be  gay  until  the  frost  kills  out-door 
flowers. 


BALCONY   GARDENING.  231 

Then  prepare  for  winter ;  dig  over  the  boxes,  pulling  up 
roots  of  dead  plants,  being  careful  not  to  disturb  perennials. 
And  plant  a  dozen  good  hyacinths,  fifty  crocus,  a  few  jon- 
quils, and  a  hundred  snow-drops,  for  early  bloom  the  next 
spring.  When  severe  frosts  come,  cover  half  a  foot  of 
coarse  manure  over  your  boxes,  laying  down  under  its  pro- 
tection your  hardy  climbers,  such  as  honeysuckles,  clema- 
tis, trumpet  flowers,  and  wistaria,  if  you  have  them,  or 
else  mat  them  up  carefully  in  straw  or  old  bass  mats. 

Now  you  have  only  to  enjoy  your  flowers  in  the  memory 
of  the  past  summer,  or  in  anticipations  for  the  future,  un- 
less, with  us,  you  would  have  flowers  in  winter,  and  will 
devote  an  hour  each  day  to  window  gardening,  or  study 
with  us,  in  the  next  chapter,  the  Wardian  Case. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 


CANNOT  have  a  hot-house!  I  have  no 
room  for  a  cold  frame,  and  no  suitable 
window  for  plants  ;  yet  the  win- 
ter is  long,  with  nothing  fresh 
and  green  to  cheer  me.  Is  there  no  way  I  can  grow 
flowers  ? "  exclaims  some  one,  almost  in  despair 

(232) 


THE   WARDIAN   CASE.  233 

Patience  a  while,  my  friend;  this  chapter  is  for  your 
benefit. 

Flowers  are  so  universally  loved,  and  accepted  every 
where  as  necessities  of  the  moral  life,  that  whatever  can 
be  done  to  render  their  cultivation  easy,  and  to  bring  them 
to  perfection  in  the  vicinity  of,  or  within  the  household, 
must  be  regarded  as  a  benefaction. 

But  in  the  midst  of  the  smoke  and  dust  of  the  city 
there  is  but  one  way  to  have  real  verdure,  in  the  freshness 
of  its  original  strength  and  life,  and  that  is,  by  the  culture 
of  it  in  Wardian  cases. 

Not  only  may  many  ornamental  plants  be  thus  preserved 
in  full  beauty  in  the  midst  of  a  dry,  dusty  atmosphere,  but 
the  rarer  and  more  delicate  forms  of  vegetation,  which 
refuse  the  tenderest  care  under  ordinary  circumstances, 
readily  submit  to  domestication,  and  manifest  high  develop- 
ment of  beauty  in  these  cases,  if  the  requirements  of  their 
constitutions  are  severally  fulfilled. 

It  was  in  the  year  1829  that  Mr.  Ward  placed  the 
chrysalis  of  a  sphinx  in  some  mould,  in  a  glass  bottle, 
covered  with  a  lid,  in  order  to  obtain  a  perfect  specimen  of 
the  insect.  After  a  time,  a  speck  or  two  of  vegetation 
appeared  on  the  surface  of  the  mould,  and  to  his  surprise 
20* 


234  THE   WARDIAN   CASE. 

turned  out  to  be  a  fern  and  a  grass.  His  interest  was 
awakened;  he  placed  the  bottle  in  a  favorable  situation, 
and  found  that  the  plants  continued  to  grow,  and  main- 
tain a  healthy  appearance.  On  questioning  himself  about 
the  matter,  the  answers  readily  presented  themselves,  inas- 
much as  air,  light,  moisture,  and  the  other  -  requirements 
of  the  plants,  were  contained  within  the  bottle.  This 
was  the  first  Wardian  case. 

The  experiment  was  extended  ;  the  case  was  shown  to 
be  self-supporting,  and  admirably  adapted  to  some  kinds 
of  plants.  Further  experiment  showed  that  while  the 
Wardian  case,  as  an  air-tight  structure,  was  in  many  cases 
a  success,  yet  for  a  great  proportion  of  plants  a  change  of 
air  is  necessary,  and  thus  at  the  present  time  the  Wardian 
case  is  simply  a  green-house  on  a  small  scale,  ventilation 
and  heat  being  provided  according  to  the  requirements  of 
the  plants  grown. 

In  a  close  case  some  ferns  will  live  and  flourish;  others 
will  maintain  their  beauty  for  a  time,  and  then  perish. 

In  a  close  case  it  is  impossible  to  raise  flowering  plants 
of  any  kind,  and  whatever  may  be  grown  in  such  a  struc- 
ture will  be  more  or  less  drawn,  spindling,  and  sickly.  The 
glass  will  usually  be  in  a  semi-opaque  condition,  from 
excessive  condensation  of  moisture. 


THE   WARDIAN   CASE. 


235 


Let  us,  however,  regard  ventilation  as  a  necessity.  The 
Wardian  case  becomes  a  miniature  green-house,  and  we 
can  grow  almost  any  thing.  Before,  we  were  confined  to' 
ferns,  because  of  all  plants  they  bear  a  damp  imprisonment 
with  wonderful  patience  ;  but  now  the  field  is  open  for  the 
introduction  of  flowers  of  the  choicest  kinds,  and  by  apply- 
ing heat,  the  working  department  of  plant  propagation 
may  be  carried  on  in-doors  with  success.  In  the  design 
of  an  oblong,  rectangular  case,  graceful  outlines  may  be 
attained  by  the  adoption  of  the  following  proportions : 


First,  determine  the  general  dimensions  of  your  case  ;  then, 
whatever  is  to  be  its  length,  let  the  width  be  nearly  one 
half.  If  from  right  to  left  it  is  to  measure  thirty-two 
inches,  let  its  breadth  from  back  to  front  be  fourteen  or 
fifteen.  The  height  of  the  glass  sides  should  be  the  same 


236  THE   WARDIAN   CASE. 

as  the  breadth  of  the  case.  Then  to  roof  it,  let  the 
summit  of  the  roof  be  formed  of  four  sloping  sides, 
surmounted  by  a  flat  top  ;  and  let  the  flat  top  be  as  much 
above  the  edges  of  the  four  sides  as  half  the  height  of 
those  sides ;  then  you  will  have  an  angular  object,  pos- 
sessing as  much  grace  as  can  be  infused  into  the  simple 
rectangular  design.  One  side  of  the  top  should  be  fixed 
on  hinges,  so  as  to  give  occasional  ventilation.  The 
material  for  the  frame  may  be  metal  or  wood. 

Now,  it  will  be  better  to  have  a  stand  made  expressly  for 
it,  with  four  legs,  and  an  elliptical  arch  of  fretted  work,  to 
break  the  monotony  of  straight  lines.  The  stand  may  be 
varied  very  much  to  suit  individual  taste ;  light  work  is 
more  suitable  than  heavy  carving.  Of  course,  the  prin- 
ciples of  art  may  be  applied  to  glass  structures  in  many 
ways,  so  as  to  insure  grace  of  outline. 

The  above  has  only  been  given  by  way.  of  example; 
every  variation  may  be  adopted,  but  it  may  be  remarked 
that  imitations  of  villas,  temples,  with  many  corners,  and 
fancy  convolutions,  or  any  intricate  design  that  may  be 
adopted  for  a  Wardian  case,  is  more  likely  to  produce 
puerility  than  grace.  Let  the  form  be  simple,  and  the 
proportions  symmetrical,  and  you  will  not  hereafter  fail 
to  be  pleased  with  your  work. 


THE   WARDIAN   CASE.  237 

An  ingenious  mind  will  suggest  numerous  designs  for 
the  purpose,  and  of  these,  built  structures  are  always 
preferable  to  the  mere  glass  dome  or  bell,  as  they  can  be 
ventilated  and  arranged  with  greater  ease. 

In  England,  Wardian  cases  are  often  built  in  windows, 
by  removing  a  portion  of  the  lower  sash,  and  building 
into  the  room  of  the  required  size,  with  the  top  flat, 
sloping,  or  domed,  as  fancy  may  suggest.  In  our  climate 
this  would  seldom  be  practicable,  for  our  winters  would 
chill  the  plants ;  it  might  do,  however,  for  eight  months 
in  the  year. 


The  simple  fern  glass  makes  a  cheap  Wardian  case ;  it 
is  merely  a  common  glass  dish,  with  a  rim,  into  which 
is  fitted  a  glass  dome  or  bell.  It  answers  well  for 


238  THE   WARDIAN   CASE. 

ferns,  but  not  for  flowering  plants,  as  the  atmosphere 
is  too  close.  Unless  the  pan  is  porous,  proper  drainage 
must  be  secured,  and  water  must  be  sparingly  given, 
as  it  can  only,  if  in  too  great  a  quantity,  be  got  rid 
of  by  evaporation,  during  which  process  the  plant  may 
be  injured.  The  ferns  best  adapted  to  these  cases  are 
those  that  love  shade,  moisture,  and  a  close  air,  but 
even  with  these  a  little  ventilation  should  be  given  to 
prevent  damping  off. 

A  flower  pot,  with  a  rim  to  receive  a  hand-glass, 
makes  a  nice  little  Wardian  case  :  these  could  be 
obtained  at  any  potter's,  could  be  made  shallow,  and 


are  inexpensive.  The  common  Florence  flasks,  in  which 
salad  oil  is  imported,  make  very  pretty  little  cases  for 
the  culture  of  delicate  forms  of  vegetation.  A  good 
way  is,  to  suspend  a  row  of  them  along  a  shady  window ; 
in  some,  grow  terrestrial  plants,  in  others,  delicate  water 


THE   WARDIAN    CASE.  239 

plants.  They  may  be  half  filled  with  soil,  and  the 
seed  sown.  The  daily  growth  may  thus  be  watched, 
and  very  many  interesting  lessons  learned.  The  flasks 
should  be  covered  with  a  piece  of  oiled  silk,  so  arranged 
that  it  can  be  removed  for  supplies  of  air  and  water. 
The  only  matter  of  importance  in  the  management  is,  to 
keep  the  rays  of  the  sun  off,  or  only  to  allow  them  to 
shine  very  faintly,  for  a  single  hour's  exposure  to  a  hot 
sun  would  bring  destruction  on  the  whole. 

It  has  been  recommended  that  all  Wardian  cases 
should  have  a  double  bottom,  to  insure  sufficient  drain- 
age, as  the  evil  most  frequently  experienced  is  sodden 
roots,  caused  by  standing  water.  This,  though  a  good 
arrangement,  is  by  no  means  necessary.  The  proper 
drainage  may  be  secured  by  broken  potsherds  and  char- 
coal, laid  along  the  bottom  to  the  depth  of  an  inch. 
The  water  will,  of  course,  drain  into  this,  and  may  be 
drawn  off  by  a  little  stop-cock  under  the  case,  and  hidden 
by  one  of  the  legs. 

The  depth  of  soil  should  not  be  greater  than  nine 
inches  ;  too  great  depth  will  give  a  damp,  heavy  soil, 
which  will  be  uncongenial  to  the  roots. 

It  is  also  advisable    to  make    arrangements    for   a  com- 


240  THE   WARDIAN   CASE. 

plete  change  of  the  plants  at  any  time.  It  is,  there- 
fore, not  advisable  to  plant  your  case  by  rilling  earth 
directly  into  the  table ;  unless,  indeed,  you  grow  your 
plants  in  pots,  and  plunge  them  in  the  soil,  so  that  they 
may  be  frequently  renewed.  The  best  plan  is  to  have 
zinc  pans,  one  or  more,  according  to  the  size  of  your 
case,  fitted  closely  to  the  inside  of  the  case ;  these 
may  be  planted  and  changed  from  time  to  time.  One 
may  have  two  sets,  which  can  be  renewed  at  a  neigh- 
boring green-house,  and  thus  a  perpetual  display  of  floral 
beauty  may  be  obtained. 

However  skilfully  managed,  a  change  of  vegetation 
in  the  case  may  now  and  then  be  desirable,  and  it  is 
easily  effected  by  means  of  duplicate  pots  or  pans. 

The  frame  of  a  Wardian  case  may  be  wood  or  metal ; 
wood  is  least  likely  to  be  affected  by  sudden  changes 
of  temperature ;  metal  is  less  liable  to  decay. 

The  frame  of  our  largest  case  is  of  bronze,  but  probably 
the  best  metal  is  galvanized  iron. 

The  pans  should  be  of  zinc  or  galvanized  iron. 

The  advantages  of  the  Wardian  case  may  thus  be 
summed  up  :  — 

You  may  grow  in  them  many  plants  which  a  single  day 


THE   WARDIAN    CASE.  241 

of  parlor  culture  would  greatly  injure  or  destroy,  since 
they  are  impatient  of  a  dry  heat.  Delicate  ferns  and 
lycopodia  are  at  once  destroyed  by  the  dry  atmosphere 
of  our  parlors,  but  develop,  in  full  beauty,  in  a  Wardian 
case. 

Again,  you  may  succeed  with  them  if  you  have  but 
little  sun.  This  must  recommend  them  to  residents  of 
cities,  where  the  sun  often  gives  but  little  light  in  the 
parlors,  being  shut  off  by  high  walls,  and  where  win- 
dow plants  become  weak  and  blanched,  or  are  long- 
drawn,  ugly  specimens,  with  weak,  sickly  blossoms. 

Another  feature  of  a  Wardian*  case,  which  is  a  source 
of  unfailing  delight.  All  well  know  that  a  winter  bouquet, 
as  procured  from  a  florist,  in  a  few  hours  loses  its  fresh- 
ness and  beauty,  and  a  few  days  are  sufficient  to  convert 
it  into  a  dry,  unsightly  mass.  If  the  bouquet  be  placed 
inside  a  Wardian  case  it  will  preserve  its  freshness  for  a 
long  time.  It  is  better,  however,  to  arrange  the  flowers 
in  a  shallow  dish  of  water,  taking  care  the  petals  do  not 
touch  the  water,  as  thus  they  would  soon  mould  ;  if  the 
stems  are  inserted  in  a  dish  of  wet  sand,  or  merely 
in  the  earth  of  the  case,  it  will  answer  every  purpose. 
Our  only  care  with  camellias  is  to  place  them  on  the  surface 
21 


242  THE   WARDIAN    CASE. 

of  the  soil.  The  water  in  the  dish  does  not  become  foul 
unless  the  flowers  begin  to  decay ;  should  this  be  the 
case,  a  little  powdered  charcoal  will  at  once  arrest  the 
tendency. 

We  have  found  many  flowers  to  last  very  long  in  per- 
fection. Thus,  camellias,  two  weeks;  azaleas,  from  two 
to  four  weeks  ;  daphne,  ten  days ;  allamanda,  four  days ; 
the  scarlet  bracts  of  poinsettia,  six  weeks  ;  heath,  from 
one  to  three  weeks;  roses,  five  days;  diosma  (the  green 
sprigs),  four  weeks;  chorizema,  one  week  ;  cyclamen, 
three  weeks ;  mahernia,  eight  days ;  cinerarias,  two  weeks ; 
calceolarias,  one  week;  pinks,  ten  days;  heliotropes,  and 
other  thin-petalled  flowers,  three  to  six  days;  geraniums, 
from  six  to  ten  days ;  orchids,  such  as  Cattleya  and 
Oncidium,  from  six  to  ten  days.  Care  must  be  taken 
not  to  have  the  case  so  damp  as  to  cause  mould  to 
collect  on  the  flowers ;  experience  will  be  the  best  teacher 
in  this  respect. 

A  very  simple  case  may  be  constructed  by  procuring  a 
shallow,  round,  glass  dish,  about  two  feet  in  diameter; 
set  in  this  a  glass  dish  two  sizes  smaller,  and  about  three 
or  four  inches  deep ;  fill  the  outer  dish  with  water, 
the  inner  with  earth,  and  plant  your  ferns.  Procure  a 


THE   WARDIAN   CASE.  243 

hemisphere  of  glass,  large  enough  to  cover  the  smaller 
dish,  and  to  rest  its  rim  on  the  water  of  the  larger. 
The  water  prevents  the  admission  of  air,  and  the  only 
care  is  to  see  that  it  never  entirely  evaporates  from 
the  outer  dish.  Your  case  is  done;  and  with  a  little 
ventilation,  your  plants  will  grow  with  a  vigor  and 
freshness  unknown  to  you  before.  These  common  cases 
may  be  made  of  any  size,  and  any  clear  glass  will  do  as 
a  cover.  The  lower  dishes  may  be  common  stone  ware, 
and  the  cover  one  of  the  glasses  used  by  confection- 
ers to  cover  cake,  or  what  is  better,  a  common  plain  or 
tubulated  receiver,  which  may  be  procured  at  any  glass 
house,  or  of  any  dealer  in  chemical  ware. 


....    By  placid  lakes, 
Deep  in  the  forest's  leafy  shade, 
Wave-plumaged  ferns  and  filmy  brakes, 
In  verdant  tracery  arrayed. 


N  the  matter  of  ven- 
tilation of  Wardian 
cases,  too  little  is  un- 
derstood. Ferns,  and  a  few  kindred  plants,  may  be  grown 
in  air-tight  cases,  but  there  is  no  objection  to  occasionally 
admitting  air  to  a  Wardian  case. 

(244) 


STOCKING   AND   MANAGING   WARDIAN   CASES.       245 

The  principal  care  necessary  is  to  see  that  the  case 
does  not  suffer  from  want  of  water.  The  moment  the 
door  is  opened,  or  the  glass  raised,  the  moisture,  which 
was  suspended  in  the  air,  or  condensed  on  the  sides 
of  the  case,  flies  off,  and  an  equalization  of  temperature 
begins  between  the  air  in  the  case  and  that  in  the  room. 
That  in  the  case  soon  parts  with  its  moisture,  and  becomes 
dry  and  unfit  to  sustain  the  plants  in  health  and  beauty, 
unless  the  earth  in  the  case  is  again  watered.  When  too 
much  water  has  been  given  (which  is  readily  seen  by  the 
glass  always  remaining  clouded),  opening  the  door  and 
admitting  external  air  is  necessary  to  the  health  of  the 
plants.  In  this  matter,  experience  will  be  the  best  teacher. 
Few  cases  are  perfectly  air  tight,  and  usually  enough  air 
will  be  admitted  through  cracks  and  ill-fitting  shades,  for 
the  health  of  ferns  and  lycopodia.  The  advantage  of  such 
cases  is,  that  they  are  sufficiently  close  to  exclude  dust  and 
noxious  gases,  yet  admit  of  ventilation  at  times  favorable 
for  the  operation. 

For  cases  made  on  the  ordinary  principle,  that  is,  as  close 

as  ordinary  workmanship  will  make  them, the  best  plants  are 

ferns  and  lycopodia,  because  these  naturally  love  a  close, 

moist    atmosphere,  and  whatever   facilities    the    case   may 

21  * 


246      STOCKING   AND   MANAGING   WARDIAN   CASES. 

afford  for  the  admission  of  atmospheric  influences,  such 
flowerless  plants  need  less  ventilation  than  most  other 
kinds ;  and  even  in  the  case  of  flowering  plants,  those 
which  prefer  moisture  and  partial  shade  are  the  most 
suitable. 

Of  course  different  ferns  and  plants  require  different 
culture,  but  most  will  thrive  under  one  general  system. 
The  soil  should  be  one  part  peat,  one  part  leaf  mould, 
one  half  part  silver  sand ;  small  bits  of  charcoal  should  be 
mixed  in.  The  soil  should  be  broken,  not  sifted,  and 
should  be  of  such  a  consistency  that  when  wet  it 
should  be  crumbly,  and  not  pasty.  The  materials  should 
be  well  mixed  by  hand. 

We  have  also  grown  ferns  successfully  in  a  soil  com- 
posed of  one  part  peat,  one  part  sphagnum  moss,  chopped 
fine,  and  one  part  silver  sand. 

The  planting  of  the  case  may  be  varied  to  meet  the 
taste  and  fancy.  The  primary  object  is  to  secure  perfect 
drainage ;  and  for  ferns,  an  admixture  of  broken  pot- 
sherds with  the  soil  permits  a  freer  circulation  of  air 
around  the  roots,  which  conduces  much  to  a  healthy 
growth. 

If  your   case  is  large,  and  sufficiently  high,  a  miniature 


STOCKING   AND   MANAGING   WARDIAN   CASES.       247 

rockery  may  be  formed,  with  some  graceful  fern  occupying 
the  top,  and  the  smaller  kinds  clustered  at  the  base.  In  a 
small  case  it  is,  however,  not  advisable  to  attempt  any  such 
effect,  but  to  plant  in  rows  or  clumps. 

Care  must  be  taken  not  to  crowd  the  plants,  nothing  is 
gained  by  it. 

Having  selected  our  plants,  place  them  firmly  in  the 
position  they  are  to  occupy;  cut  off  all  damaged  and 
decaying  fronds,  being  careful  not  to  injure  any  young 
shoots.  Level  or  elevate  the  surface  of  the  soil,  covering 
or  picking  out  any  protruding  lumps.  If  the  plants  are  in 
pots,  sunk  in  the  soil,  draw  the  earth  over  the  rim  of 
the  pot,  so  as  to  hide  it,  being  careful  not  to  thereby  bury 
the  plant  too  deep. 

Now,  as  to  watering.  Ferns  love  shade  and  moisture, 
but  this  is  no  reason  they  should  be  shut  up  in  darkness,  or 
drenched  with  water,  as  is  too  often  the  case.  As  soon 
as  the  case  is  planted,  give  a  slight  watering  with  a  fine- 
rosed  watering  pot,  to  settle  the  soil. 

Shade  the  case  for  a  few  days,  giving  free  ventilation 
until  the  plants  are  established ;  if  the  case  is  open  for  a 
few  hours  each  day  it  will  be  sufficient.  Water  thus 
whenever  the  soil  seems  to  need  it,  which  is  easily  known 


248       STOCKING   AND   MANAGING   WARDIAN   CASES. 

by  the  appearance  of  the  plants  ;  the  great  danger  is  in  giv- 
ing too  much  moisture  ;  the  soil  then  becomes  sodden,  tha 
young  fronds  decay,  and  the  older  fronds  collect  mould. 
The  soil  should  at  all  times  be  moist,  but  never  wet. 

As  to  general  ventilation,  when  the  plants  are  fully 
established:  The  requirements  of  different  plants  are  so 
various  that  no  rule  of  universal  application  can  be  given ; 
flowering  plants  need  the  most,  ferns  and  lycopodia  the 
least. 

Light  is  essential,  and  a  few  hours  of  gentle  sunlight  are 
beneficial.  The  direct  rays  of  a  hot  sun  should  be  avoided. 
When  the  sun  is  on  the  case  keep  it  closed,  unless  the  soil 
has  become  too  wet.  Of  course  dead  leaves  must  be 
removed,  and  all  kept  clean. 

Let  us  now  consider  the  adaptation  of  the  Wardian  case 
to  flowering  plants.  And  we  must  frankly  state  that  the 
case  does  far  better  for  the  exhibition  and  preservation  of 
flowering  plants  than  for  their  growth. 

If  you  have  a  green-house,  bring  the  plants  forward  there  ; 
as  soon  as  in  bloom  remove  them  to  the  case,  sinking  the 
pots  in  the  soil,  and  they  will  remain  a  long  time  in 
perfection. 

In  the  selection  of  plants  those  with  variegated  foliage 
are  to  be  preferred,  as  they  are  gay  at  all  times. 


STOCKING   AND   MANAGING   WARDIAN   CASES.       249 

Gloxineas  and  achimenes  grow  and  flower  well,  and  are 
very  beautiful  ornaments ;  these  we  cannot  otherwise  grow 
in  our  parlors. 

Roses,  pansies,  and  begonias  thrive  well,  and  bloom 
profusely. 

The  grand  point  in  the  selection  of  plants  is,  to  grow 
only  those  together  which  have  the  same  requirements  of 
light  and  moisture.  Thus  ferns  and  verbenas  would  never 
succeed  in  the  same  case ;  the  moisture  necessary  for  the 
former  would  be  death  to  the  latter. 

A  very  pretty  stock  of  plants  may  be  obtained  from  our 
own  woods.  All  our  pretty  mosses  and  ferns,  and  most  of 
our  early  spring  flowers,  thrive  admirably.  They  should, 
however,  have  a  case  to  themselves,  as  they  do  not  thrive 
in  company  with  rare  exotics.  These  plants  must  be  care- 
fully taken  up,  and  all  sods  shaken  off,  preserving  of  course 
as  much  of  the  earth  around  the  root  as  possible. 

The  objection  to  transplanting  sods  with  roots  of  choice 
plants  in  them  to  a  Wardian  case  is,  you  of  necessity  get 
strong  roots  of  rank  grass,  which  grow  so  rapidly  as  to  hide 
your  ferns  and  mosses,  and  are  also  too  apt  to  introduce 
slugs  and  worms,  which  destroy  your  rarer  plants.  We 
once  lost  a  fine  Maranta  by  a  slug  which  we  introduced  in 


250       STOCKING   AND   MANAGING   WARDIAN   CASES. 

some  moss  ;  but  probably  the  fellow  was  unused  to  such 
luxurious  living,  for  after  searching  for  him  in  vain  for 
several  days  (his  depredations  still  continuing),  we  found 
him  one  morning  dead  under  a  half  eaten  leaf;  his  appe- 
tite had  destroyed  him. 

Our  native  orchids,  the  Arethusa,  Pogonia,  Cymbidium, 
and  Orchis  do  well.  The  Trillium,  so  shy  of  cultivation, 
deigns  to  live  and  bloom,  and  many  of  our  meadow  and 
swamp  plants  thrive  as  if  in  their  native  haunts. 

And  now  for  the  selection  of  plants. 

Flowering  Plants. 

Gloxinea  Rosen  Mutabilis.   "Rosy  white. 

"         Cartonii.    Pink,  white  lines. 

"        Annulata  Superba.    Blue,  white  throat. 

"         Grandis.     Cream  color,  plum  throat. 

"         WiUonii.     Pink  and  white. 

"        Heliodorus.     Blue  and  white. 

"        Alba  Sanguined.    White,  rich,  carmine  throat. 

"        Alba  Grandiflora.     Pure  white. 

"        Maria  Van  Houtte.    White  and  pink  lemon  throat. 

"        Sir  Hugo.    Violet  purple. 

"         Carlo  Maratti.     Violet,  blue,  and  white. 

"         Guido  Reni.    White,  crimson  centre. 
Achimenes  Grandiflora.    Rosy  purple,  white  centre. 
Longiflora.     Deep  blue. 

"  "  Alba.     Pure  white. 

"  Picta.    Yellow,  spotted  with  scarlet. 

"  Ambrose  Verschajfelt.    White,  marked  with  purple. 

"  Parsonsii.     Salmon  crimson,  orange  centre. 


STOCKING   AND   MANAGING   WARDIAN    CASES.       251 

Achimenes  Meteor.     Brilliant  crimson. 

Edmund  Bosseir.     White  and  blue. 

Plants  with    Variegated  Foliage. 

Begonia  Rex,  Caladium  Chant inii, 

"        Sir  Colin  Campbell,  "         Hastatum, 

"        Argentea  Superba,  "         Bicolor, 

"         Queen  Victoria,  Croton  Pictum, 

"        Makoy's  Victoria,  Dracena  Ferrea, 

"         Funkii,  "        Terminalis, 

"        Duchesse  de  Brabant,  Diejfenbachia  Picta, 

"        Margareticea,  Gesneria  Zebrina, 

"         Picta,  Maranta  Regalis, 

Plectranthus  Concolor  Pictus,  "       Fasciata, 

Caladium  Pcecile,  "       Alba  Lineata, 

"         Marmoratum,  Tradescantia  Discolor. 
"         Argy rites, 

Tall  Ferns. 

Polypodium  Aureum,  Gymnogramma  Peruviana, 

Pteris  Argyrea,  (Silver  Fern), 

Davillia  Canaricnsis,  Myriopteris  Elegans, 

Polypodium  Appendiculatum,  Nephrodium  Molle,        [bomm), 

Grymnogramma  Sutphztrea,  "     (var.  Corym- 

Gymnogramma  Chrysophylla  Nephrolepis  Davilleoides, 

(Golden  Fern),  Blechnum  Pectinatum. 

Dwarf  Ferns. 

Pteris  Hastata,  Blechnum  Gracile, 

Polypodium  Vulgare,  Lomarea  Nuda, 

Asplenium  Adiantum   Nigrum^  Asplenium  Belangerii, 

Aspknium  Trichomanea,  Davillia  Bullata, 

Adiantum  Cuneatum,  Hypolepis  Rcpens, 

"          Concinnum,  Pteris  Tricolor. 
Affine, 


252       STOCKING   AND   MANAGING   WARDIAN   CASES. 


Apoda, 

Denticultum, 

Densa, 

Wildenovii, 

Paradozica, 

Stonolifera, 

Schotii, 

Lepidophyllum, 


Lycopodia,  or  Selaginella. 

Argenteum, 
Delicatissimum, 
Africanum, 
Microphytta, 
Lobbii, 
Caesium, 
Atroviridis. 


Climbing  Ferns,   &c. 
Lygodium  Scandens,  Lycopodium  Casium  Arboreum. 


Plants  for  Baskets. 

Tradescantia  Zebrina,  Pothos  Argyrea, 

Hoya  Bella, 
utEschynanthiis  Boschianus, 

Zebrinus, 

Pulchra, 


Torrenia  Asiatica, 
Linaria  Cymbalarea, 
Rcpens. 


HANGING   BASKETS   AND   PLANTS. 


253 


CHAPTER     XV. 

HANGING   BASKETS   AND     SUITABLE    PLANTS,   AND   TREAT- 
I  MENT   OF   IVY. 

HAT  a  pretty  amusement  is  the  growth 
of  plants  in  hanging  baskets  or 
pots  !      It  is  very  popular,  and 
deservedly   so.     The  beauty  of 
the  baskets,  now  fashioned  in  so 
many  artistic  designs,  is  almost 
sufficient  to  inspire  a  love  of  hor- 
ticulture, if  only  for  the  sake 
of   growing   the    plant   in   so 
pretty  a  pot.     Yet  we  cannot  urge 
the  growth  of  plants  in  these  bas- 
kets ;    a  porous  pot    is    essential  to 
the  health  of  a  plant,  and  most  of 
these  baskets  are  china,  or  glazed  or  painted. 

Yet  they  may  be  used  by  setting  the  pot  containing  the 
22 


254  HANGING   BASKETS   AND   PLANTS. 

plant  inside  of  them.  Another  objection  is,  that  having 
no  outlet  for  the  escape  of  the  water,  it  collects  in  the 
bottom,  and,  unless  there  is  very  ample  drainage,  which  is 
seldom  the  case,  the  roots  are  rotting  in  water  while  the 
surface  is  dry. 

Potting  in  these  vases  is  very  simple.  If  the  plant  must 
be  in  the  vase  or  basket,  fill  half  full  of  broken  potsherds ; 
on  these  place  a  thin  layer  of  moss,  and  fill  up  with  pre- 
pared soil ;  shade  the  plant  for  a  few  days  until  well  estab- 
lished, then  hang  it  in  the  window,  and  water  slightly  every 
morning  with  a  fine-rosed  watering-pot ;  as  the  plant 
grows,  dispose  the  branches  to  fall  gracefully  over  the  pot. 

The  plants  most  suitable   for  baskets  are,  — 

The  COMMON  'PERIWINKLE  (Vinca  Major  and  Minor), 
and  the  pretty  variety  with  variegated  leaves.  This  is  an 
evergreen,  and  produces  its  pretty  blue  flowers  in  spring 
and  early  summer.  There  is  also  a  white-flowered  and  a 
double  variety. 

LYSIMACHIA  MTTMMULARIA  (Money  Wort).  A  pretty 
little  trailing  plant,  with  dark,  glossy  leaves,  and  a  pro- 
fusion of  dark  yellow  flowers  in  June.  This  plant  should 
be  in  a  shady  window. 

LIN  ARIA    CYMBAL  ARIA  (Coliseum  Ivy).      A  little    gem 


HANGING   BASKETS    AND   PLANTS.  255 

of  a  plant,  and  thriving  well  in  the  parlor.  Leaves  small ; 
ivy-shaped  flowers,  like  a  little  snap-dragon,  purple  and 
white.  Should  be  kept  rather  moist. 

TKADESCANTIA  ZEBRINA.  A  rapid  growing  plant,  with 
greenish  purple  leaves,  with  lighter  markings  on  the 
upper  side,  and  dark  purple  below ;  flowers  small  light 
pink. 

CEB.EUS  FLAGELLIFORMIS.  —  A  pretty  species  of  cactus, 
with  pink  flowers  in  summer,  and  long,  pendulous  leaves, 
with  close  spines. 

LOBELIA  GRACILIS  AND  ERINTJS.  These,  and  many 
others  of  the  family,  are  pretty,  graceful  plants,  producing 
blue  or  white  flowers.  Sow  the  seed  in  early  spring,  and 
plants  will  bloom  in  June,  and  continue  in  blossom  all 
summer. 

NEMOPHILA.  A  class  of  pretty  annuals,  with  blue, 
white,  and  spotted  flowers.  Treat  as  lobelia. 

TKOPJEOLUM  (Nasturtium).  The  various  small-flowered 
kinds  do  well,  and  are  gay  with  flowers,  if  the  pot  is  large 
enough,  and  the  soil  not  too  rich. 

SOLANUM  JASMINOIDES.  This  pretty  plant,  previously 
described,  does  well  in  a  large  basket. 

SAXIFEAGA    SARMENTOSA    (Chinese    Saxifrage).      Very 


256        HANGING  BASKETS  AND  PLANTS. 

pretty  and  common,  producing  long,  hanging  runners,  with 
new  plants  growing  out  every  few  inches.  The  flower  is 
white,  produced  on  a  tall  spike,  from  the  centre  of  the  old 
plant.  It  is  not  showy,  and  the  bud,  when  young,  should  be 
cut  off,  as  the  plant  dies  after  blooming.  Give  plenty  of 
water. 

CONVOLVULUS  MAURITANICUS.  A  beautiful,  new  Morn- 
ing Glory,  with  pink  and  blue  flowers,  with  a  white  star  in 
the  centre. 

PELARGONIUM  LATERIPES  (Ivy-leaved  Geranium).  Makes 
an  excellent  plant  for  a  basket,  and  will  do  well  with  little 
care  ;  the  variegated-leaved  variety  is  very  fine. 

DISANDRA  PROSTRATA.  A  pretty,  free^growing  plant, 
with  long,  slender  stems,  clothed  with  roundish  leaves,  and 
bearing  small,  yellow  flowers,  of  no  particular  beauty; 
cultivated  more  for  its  freedom  of  growth  than  for  its 
flowers.  Grows  in  any  light,  loamy  soil. 

One  of  the  most  serviceable  trailers  is  the  plant  com- 
monly known  as  German  Ivy  (Senecio  Scandens)  ;  it  is 
of  most  rapid  growth,  with  light  green  leaves,  studded 
with  pellucid  dots,  and  never  troubled  by  insects.  As 
a  screen  for  a  window,  or  covering  for  a  wall,  it  is 
most  valuable.  It  is  easily  propagated,  every  joint  root- 


TREATMENT   OF   IVY.  257 

ing  if  placed  in  the  earth.  The  flowers  are  straw- 
colored,  and  often  produced  in  greatest  profusion.  The 
plant  is  a  native  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  has 
been  introduced  many  years.  It  is  admirably  adapted  for 
baskets. 

IVY. 

This  plant,  in  some  of  its  varieties,  is  probably  the  most 
popular  ornament  of  the  parlor.  The  ease  of  culture,  its 
beautiful  foliage,  its  rapid  growth,  and  evergreen  character, 
all  combine  to  make  it  a  favorite. 

The  soil  should  be  a  rich  loam  ;  the  richer  the  soil 
the  more  rapid  will  be  the  growth.  Yet  avoid  stimu- 
lating manures. 

Slips  root  readily,  taken  off  at  any  leaf  joint,  and  placed 
either  in  earth  or  water ;  in  the  latter  they  will  soon 
throw  out  roots,  and  may  then  be  transferred  to  pots. 

The  only  precaution  to  be  taken  in  growing  ivy  is  to 
keep  it  from  frost  while  in  growth ;  and  if  frozen,  to  keep 
the  sun  away  from  it,  thawing  it  out  with  cold  water. 

In  summer  the  plants  may  be  set  out  of  doors,  and  will 
make  vigorous  growth. 

There  are  many  species,  of  which  the  most  common  is 
22* 


258 


TREATMENT   OF   IVY. 


Hedera  Helix,  the  common  twining  ivy,  a  native  of  Europe, 
of  which  there  are  many  varieties.  The  leaves  of  these 
varieties  vary  very  much,  and  many  distinctions  have  been 
founded  on  these  variations.  There  are  two  very  beautiful 
kinds,  the  silver  and  golden,  the  foliage  being  beautifully 
variegated  with  white  and  gold.  The  following  cuts  will 


show  how  these  differ  in  foliage,  all  being  taken  from  living 
leaves,  though  some  are  necessarily  reduced  in  size  to 
accommodate  them  to  our  pages. 

The  Tree  or  Aborescent  Ivy  is  merely  a  form  of  the  com- 


TREATMENT   OP   IVY. 


259 


mon  variety,  which  is  shown  by  its  returning  to  the  primal 
form  not  ^infrequently.  The  leaves  are  entire,  and  the 
plant  often  retains  its  arborescent  form  for  years. 

H.  Rcegneriana  is  a  variety  with  large,  heart-shaped 
leaves,  which  is  much  esteemed. 

H.  Ti.   digitata,   the   palmate    or  hand-shaped   Ivy  is   a 


pretty  variety,  of  rapid  growth ;  the  leaves  are  small, 
dark,  and  veined.  This  is  often  called,  erroneously,  the 
Irish  Ivy. 

H.  Canariensis  is  the  Irish,  or  Giant  Ivy ;  the  leaves  are 
five-lobed,  and  larger  than  those  of  the  common  ivy. 

Almost  all  the  varieties  of  nurserymen  s'  catalogues  are 
merely  forms  of  these,  with  peculiar  foliage. 


260  TREATMENT   OP   IVY. 

The  Golden  Ivy  is  a  splendid  plant ;  when  the  young 
leaves  come  out  it  resembles  a  mass  of  yellow  flowers. 

Ivies  are  grown  in  hanging  baskets,  around  windows, 
made  to  trail  around  picture  frames  and  looking  glasses ; 
indeed,  they  may  be  made  decorative  in  the  highest 
degree. 

The  plants  should  always  be  well  supplied  with  water, 
though  it  should  never  be  allowed  to  stand  at  the  roots. 
Large  plants  of  the  common  varieties  may  be  procured  for 
fifty  cents.  The  ornamental  foliaged  varieties  are  some- 
what dearer. 

If  you  have  ivy  growing  out  of  doors  (and  it  will  thrive 
if  you  keep  the  winter's  sun  away  from  it),  a  pretty  effect 
may  be  produced  by  cutting  large  branches,  and  keeping 
them  in  vases  of  rain  water.  They  will  grow  well  all 
winter,  and  planted  in  spring  make  nice  plants  for 
autumn. 

The  plant  commonly  known  as  German  Ivy  is  not  an  ivy ; 
the  botanical  name  is  Senecio  Scandens.  It  is  deservedly 
popular,  from  its  rapid  growth  and  its  freedom  from  insects. 
We  have,  in  a  former  paragraph,  treated  of  it  more  fully. 

The  Coliseum  Ivy  is  a  species  of  Snap-dragon,  as  may  be 
seen  from  an-  examination  of  the  flowers,  and  a  very  pretty 


TREATMENT   OF   IVY. 


261 


plant  it  is ;  botanically  it  is  Linaria  Cymbalaria,  and  is 
mentioned  more  fully  in  the  early  part  of  this  chapter. 

Five-leaved  Ivy  is  the  Virginia  Creeper  or  Woodbine 
(Ampelopsis  Virginicci)-,  a  native  of  our  woods. 

The  Poison  Ivy  is  Elms  Eadicans  or  Elius  Toxicoden- 
dron,  and  not  of  the  same  family  as  any  of  the  above. 


CHAPTER    XVI. 


THE  WALTONIAN   CASE. 

Definition.  —  Form.  —  Construction.  —  Capacity.  —  Heating.  —  Lamp.  —  Oil. 

—  Gas'.  — Pots.— Sand  Bottom.  —  Description  of  Case.  —  Various  Sizes. 

—  Advantages   over   Hot-bed.  — How  to  make  a  Cutting. — Waltonian 
Principle  applied  to  Wardian  Case. 

IGHTLY  considered,  a  Waltonian  Case  is  a 
drawing-room  propagating  house.  It  is 
not  a  heated  Wardian  case,  unless 
we  define  a  Wardian  as  a  par- 
lor conservatory ;  then  the 
Waltonian  is  a  parlor  stove  or 
hot-house.  Any  glass  frame  or  case, 
in  which  the  air  is  warmed  by  the  applica- 
tion of  heat,  either  directly  from  a  lamp,  or  by  means  of 
hot  water,  would  be  a  Waltonian  case. 

The  first  invention  of  Mr.  Walton,  from  Avhom  the  case 
is  named,  was  placing  a  tin  case,  filled  with  hot  water, 
inside  a  wooden  box,  covered  with  a  glass.  The  air  inside 

(262) 


THE    WALTONIAN    CASE.  263 

was  kept  close  and  warm,  but  there  was  not  power  enough 
to  raise  temperature  very  much,  nor  sufficient  to  root  cut- 
tings. Bottom  heat,  which  is  one  of  the  features  of  the 
Waltonian  case,  was  at  first  entirely  wanting. 

By  much  experimenting  many  changes  were  made  and 
improvements  introduced,  until  now  the  Waltonian  case  is 
the  best  method  an  amateur  can  use  to  supply  himself  with 
bedding  plants.  It  is  a  hot-bed,  without  the  dirt  and  in- 
convenience ;  an  ornament  instead  of  an  unsightly  object ; 
inexpensive,  and  yet  accomplishing  wonders ;  an  indispen- 
sable aid  to  the  amateur  florist. 

As  far  as  we  know,  these  pretty  little  cases  are  not. made 
in  this  country ;  they  may,  however,  be  imported  for  about 
ten  dollars  each,  and  expense  of  freight  and  exchange. 
We  trust,  however,  in  our  description  to  be  sufficiently  in- 
telligible to  render  their  construction  an  easy  matter. 

We  can,  however,  lay  no  claim  to  originality  in  this 
chapter ;  we  have  but  collected  all  the  best  information  on 
the  subject. 

Now  that  the  best  form,  the  best  measurements,  and  the 
exact  details  of  construction  have  been  determined  by  ex- 
periment, no  one,  however  previously  ignorant  of  ordinary 
gardening  operations,  need  find  it  difficult  to  produce  an 


264  THE   WALTONIAN   CASE. 

abundance  of  stock  for  the  garden,  the  green-house,  or  the 
window  ;  for  it  may  be  a  hot-house,  an  intermediate-house, 
or  a  cold  pit,  just  as  you  please,  by  a  very  simple  regu- 
lation. 

The  Waltonian  case  is  fashioned  in  the  style  of  a  garden 
frame,  the  frame-work  being  of  wood,  with  side  and  top 
lights,  a  boiler  and  lamp  for  supplying  heat,  and  a  tray  of 
sand,  on  which  the  pots  are  placed. 

To  give  the  reader  an  idea  of  the  appearance  of  the 
case,  we  will  at  once  refer  to  the  figure  of  one  of  sim- 
plest construction,  which  we  propose  to  describe  partic- 
ularly. 

The  frame-work  is  of  wood,  and  may-  be  either  plain 
deal,  or  any  ornamental  wood  with  elegant  mouldings. 
The  front  and  the  two  ends  are  fitted  with  glass,  the 
back  is  wholly  of  wood,  and  on  :the  top  are  two  lights, 
laid  on  loosely.  There  is  room  inside  for  thirty-two  four 
inch  pots,  in  four  rows  of  eight  each,  and  these  pots  stand 
on  a  thin  layer  of  silver  sand,  kept  constantly  damp,  and 
heated  by  the  boiler  immediately  beneath  it.  The  lamp  in 
front  is  a  common  tin  one,  burning  colza  oil.  (This  oil  is 
much  used  in  Europe  ;  it  is  a  very  fine  oil,  burning  without 
smoke,  and  is  pressed  from  rape  seed  (Brassica  oleracca) ; 


THE  WALTONIAN   CASE. 


265 


with  us  the  heat  may  be  from  a  gas  jet,  a  spirit,  or  fluid 
lamp.)  And  the  cost  of  working  would  be  about  fifty 
cents  a  week. 

The  time  the  lamp  will  burn  must  depend  upon  the  size 
and  the  care  used  in  trimming  ;   and  to  keep  it  burning 


TIG.  1. 

constantly  would  require  but  little  care.  Having  glanced 
at  it  so  far,  let  us  now  take  the  case  to  pieces.  The  top 
lights  lift  off,  without  troubling  with  hinges,  hooks,  or 
attachments  of  any  kind.  They  are  simple  squares  of 
23 


266  THE   WALTONIAN    CASE. 

glass  let  into  a  zinc  bedding,  and  with  a  ring  by  which  to 
lift  them.  This  plan  allows  them  to  be  shifted,  to  give  air 
to  any  extent  necessary.  Having  removed  these,  we  find 
the  pots  standing  on  clear,  damp  sand.  When  the  pots  are 
removed  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  lift  out  the  whole  of  the 
heating  apparatus,  by  means  of  the  two  handles  attached  to 
the  zinc  tray,  and  its  appearance  is  that  in  Figure  2. 


FIG.  2. 

The  upper  tray  B  B  is  an  inch  deep,  and  in  this,  sand  an 
inch  deep  is  carefully  spread  over.  Attached  to  it  is  the 
boiler  A,  which  is  in  reality  double,  one  portion  enabling 
the  hot  air  and  the  smoke  of  the  lamp  to  circulate  round 
the  tank,  and  escape  by  means  of  the  flue  D,  to  which  the 
funnel  E  is  attached  when  in  operation.  The  tank  itself 
being  filled  by  means  of  the  vapor  tube  C,  on  which  a  cap 
fits  to  prevent  any  excessive  escape  of  steam.  The  boiler 
holds  about  two  quarts  of  water. 

If  we  turn  the  tray  upside  down,  we  have  the  appearance 
presented  by  Figure  3,  where  F  is  the  boiler,  and  G  the 


THE   WALTONIAN   CASE.  267 

entrance  to  the  hot-air  chamber,  into  which  the  flame  of 
the  lamp  enters  when  the  case  is  at  work. 

Replacing  the  tray,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  hole  in  the 
boiler  fits  over  the  box  that  contains  the  lamp. 

The  flame  of  the  lamp  plays  upon  the  inside  tank,  and 
the  smoke  escapes  by  means  of  the  flue  G,  which  conducts 
it  out  through  the  back  of  the  case,  quite  away  from  the 
plants.  Practically  speaking,  there  is  but  very  little  smoke. 


FIG.  3. 

The  exact  measurements  of  these  several  parts  are  in  the 
case  above  figured.  Length  of  tray  B  B,  thirty-four  and 
one-half  inches ;  breadth,  seventeen  inches.  As  the  pots 
stand  inside  the  tray,  and  the  latter  fits  the  frame,  there  is, 
therefore,  a  working  space  for  plants  of  five  hundred  and 
sixty  square  inches.  Depth  of  the  boiler  A,  two  inches. 
The  entire  case  measures  outside,  along  the  front,  thirty-six 
inches  and  a  half ;  from  back  to  front,  eighteen  inches  and 
a  half,  When  placed  at  a  window,  or  in  a  green-house, 
light  is  admitted  only  at  the  top,  but  the  case  might  be 
made  with  lights  at  the  back,  and  additional  light  would  be 


268 


THE   WALTONIAN   CASE. 


obtained  ;  but  as  the  chief  use  of  the  Waltonian  case  is  to 
raise  seeds  and  strike  cuttings,  a  partial  admission  of  light 
is  usually  sufficient. 

The  Waltonian  case  may  be  made  of  larger  or  smaller 
size.  The  following  figure  shows  a  case  of  larger  size, 
made  on  the  close  principle,  by  which  all  is  entirely  hidden. 
X  shows  the  door  for  the  introduction  of  the  lamp. 


FIG.  4. 

The  interior  arrangement  of  the  case  may  appear  some- 
what complicated,  especially  the  arrangement  of  the  double 
boiler.  We  therefore  give  the  accompanying  illustration, 
showing  the  interior  workings. 

A  represents  the  boiler  ;  B,  the  steam  chimney,  opening 
into  the  middle  of  the  case,  through  the  zinc  tray ;  C  G  C, 
the  zinc  tray  ;  D  D  D,  outer  cover  to  boiler,  through  which 
the  heat  is  conveyed  from  the  lamp  round  the  boiler,  and 


THE   WALTONIAN   CASE. 


269 


the  smoke  out  through  E ;  F,  lamp  for  heating  boiler  ;  jET, 
tap  to  draw  off  water. 

The  heat  for  a  Waltonian  case  should  be  about  seventy 
degrees  ;  when  the  sun  will  raise  this  heat,  the  lamp  may 
be  dispensed  with.  In  managing  the  case,  it  is  important 
the  sand  should  be  kept  constantly  moist,  or  the  heat  will 


FIG.  5. 


not  rise  freely ;  any  excessive  moisture  may,  however,  lead 
to  damping  off. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  sprinkle  a  little  silver  sand  over  the 
surface  of  the  pots  containing  the  cuttings ;  it  is  a  great 
safeguard  against  damping  off.  It  is  also  important  to  sow 
the  seeds  in  small  pots  —  the  smaller  the  pots  the  greater 
the  safety. 

23* 


270  THE   WALTONIAN    CASE. 

Those  that  require  the  greatest  amount  of  neat  must  be 
placed  towards  the  centre,  immediately  over  the  lamp. 

Watering  must  be  regularly  attended  to,  and  the  \vater 
must  be  of  the  same  temperature  as  the  air  in  the  case.  It 
is  well  to  water  them  with  a  fine-rosed  watering-pot,  as 
thus  the  plants  and  sand  are  both  moistened  ;  any  super- 
fluous moisture  may  be  removed  by  ventilation. 

It  is  really  surprising  what  an  amount  of  work  may  be 
done  by  a  Waltonian  case.  In  it  plants,  seeds,  and  cut- 
tings may  be  so  started  that  they  may  safely  be  hardened 
off  for  the  green-house  or  the  window. 

It  has  many  advantages  over  a  common  hot-bed.  In  the 
first  place  we  are  certain  of  heat,  and  can  regulate  the 
temperature  from  any  point  up  to  nearly  ninety  degrees, 
the  ordinary  temperature  being  from  seventy  to  eighty 
degrees. 

It  requires  an  experienced  hand  to  make  up  a  hot-bed 
with  dung,  that  shall  give  a  steady  heat  for  any  length  of 
time ;  and  with  the  most  experienced  the  accidents  of  damp- 
ing off,  burning  upland  failure  of  heat,  are  not  uncommon; 
but  here  we  have  simply  to  fill  the  boiler,  light  the  lamp, 
and  then  keep  the  case  as  close  and  damp  as  we  please,  or 
give  light  and  air,  as  circumstances  require.  There  is  no 


THE   WALTONIAN   CASE.  271 

soiling  of  hands,  wetting  of  feet,  or  anxiety  about  frost  and 
mats  ;  and  the  most  serious  part  of  garden  economy  is 
brought  within  a  lady's  reach  and  the  merest  beginner's 
unripe  judgment. 

The  small  size  of  the  case  may  seem  to  be  against  it,  but 
it  will  perform  such  an  amount  of  work,  when  well  man- 
aged, as  to  meet  the  wants  of  most  amateurs. 

Geraniums,  Fuchsias,  and  Calceolarias,  may  be  rooted 
safely,  and  in  quantities  sufficient  for  ordinary  wants. 

"  Hardening  off"  the  plants  is  simply  removing  them 
from  the  heated  centre  to  the  borders  of  the  case,  as  they 
become  well  rooted,  and  thence  to  a  cooler  frame,  or  grad- 
ually to  the  window. 

The  cuttings,  if  more  than  one  in  a  pot,  may  be  trans- 
planted to  separate  pots  in  the  usual  manner. 

In  all  other  respects  there  is  no  difference  in  the  manage- 
ment of  seeds  and  cuttings  in  a  Waltonian  case  from  that 
employed  in  a  common  hot-bed. 

And  now  to  make  a  cutting.  Usually  it  is  very  simple. 
Take  off  a  portion  of  the  partially  ripened  wood  (if  too 
soft  or  young  it  will  damp  off,  if  too  hard  or  old  it  will 
not  put  forth  roots)  ;  cut  it  horizontally,  or  slanting  down- 
wards, at  a  joint,  or  just  below  a  leaf;  it  being  for  verbenas, 


272  THE   WALTONIAN   CASE. 

fuchsias,  tind  heliotropes,  from  an  inch  to  two  inches  long. 
Plant  it  half  its  length  in  silver  sand  and  loam,  along  the 
sides  of  the  pot,  and  put  the  pot  in  your  case. 

As  a  rule,  take  all  cuttings  of  soft-wooded  plants  at  a 
joint. 

Some  hard-wooded  plants,  such  as  Heaths,  and  Epacus. 
are  rooted  from  tips  of  young  shoots,  in  sand,  with  no 
bottom  heat.  Gloxineas,  and  Begonias,  are  rooted  from 
leaves.  Place  the  leaves  in  silver  sand,  keeping  it  moist, 
and  pressing  them  close  on  to  the  sand.  A  plant  will 
always  spring  from  the  junction  of  the  leaf  and  stem,  and 
frequently  every  nerve  will  produce  a  plant. 

The  Waltonian  principle  may  be  applied  to  the  Wardian 
.case,  and  thus  many  rare  hot-house  plants  may  be  grown  in 
the  parlor. 


CHAPTER    XVII. 


THE  AQUARIUM  AND  WATER  PLANTS. 

Proportion  of  Animal  and  Vegetable  Life.  — Form.  — Construction.  — Di- 
mensions. —  Situation.  —  Oxygenation.  —  Sunshine.  —  Planting.  —  Plants 
suitable  for  the  Parlor  Aquarium.  —  Limnocharis  Humboldtii.  —  Pro- 
curing Plants.  —  General  Directions. 

T    is  not  within  the  scope  of  our 
present  work    to    treat   of 
the  general  construction  of 
Aquaria,  or  their  man- 
agement    in    relation 
to   their  living   tenants. 
Equally  out  of  place  will 
it  be  to  treat  of  the  growth  of 
algae,  or  sea  weeds,  or   the    inhab- 
itants  of  marine  or  salt-water  aquaria. 
We    can   only  consider    the  aquarium,   at 
present,  as  a  means  of  growing  in  perfection,  in  the  parlor, 
meadow  and  water  plants,  leaving  for  others  the  pleasing 
duty  of  describing  animate  life  in  connection  therewith. 

(273) 


274 


THE    AQUARIUM    AND   WATER   PLANTS. 


It  is  well,  however,  to  understand  that  no  aquarium  does 
well  unless  stocked  with  some  forms  of  both  animal  and 
vegetable  life.  The  goodness  of  the  Creator  has,  in  Nature, 
proportioned  the  one  to  the  other,  each  consuming  what 
is  injurious  to  the  other,  and  both  together  working  with 
that  admirable  adaptation  which  ever  characterizes  the 
works  of  God. 


FIG.  i. 

We  must,  in  our  imitation  of  the  great  provisions  of 
Nature,  in  an  humble  way,  provide  as  she  provides,  and  so 
proportion  our  animal  and  vegetable  life  as  to  give  health 
and  beauty  to  both.  For  this  reason  a  few  of  the  smaller 
fish,  and  a  quantity  of  snails,  should  always  be  introduced 
into  our  aquarium,  to  preserve  the  proper  balance  by  con- 
suming surplus  vegetation. 


THE  AQUARIUM  AND  WATER  PLANTS.      275 

The  best  vessel  for  an  aquarium  is,  doubtless,  a  tank  of 
a  rectangular  form,  constructed  of  glass,  with  a  slate  bot- 
tom, and  mounted  on  a  stand  made  for  the  purpose. 

The  simpler  the  outline  the  better,  because,  where  we 
have  but  a  few  broad  sheets  of  glass,  the  view  is  less  ob- 
structed, and  light,  the  great  essential  of  success,  can  pen- 
etrate to  every  exposed  part  of  the  collection. 

In  Figure  1 ,  the  dimensions  are  as  follows  :  Back  and 
front,  three  feet ;  ends,  one  foot  four  inches  ;  depth,  one 
foot  six  inches.  The  bottom  is  of  slate,  and  the  four 
sides  are  of  plate  glass.  Four  turned  wooden  pillars  unite 
the  four  sides,  and  four  similar  pieces  bind  the  whole  along 
the  top  edge. 


FIG.  2. 


If  shallower  water  is  required,  a  square  tank,  say  two 
feet  four  by  two  feet  four,  and  one  foot  deep,  would  be 
suitable,  as  shown  in  Figure  2. 


276  THE   AQUARIUM   AND   WATER   PLANTS. 

The  weight  of  these  tanks,  when  filled  with  water,  is 
very  great,  therefore  strength  is  a  matter  for  consideration. 
The  joints  must  be  strong  to  resist  internal  pressure,  and 
the  table  firm  enough  to  bear  the  weight.  The  slate  bot- 
tom and  ends  must  have  suitable  grooves  to  receive  the 
glass,  which  should  be  heavy  plate  or  very  thick  crown. 

White  lead  putty  may  be  used;  there  are,  however, 
many  kinds  of  water -proof  cement  equally  good. 

The  most  elegant  outline  of  straight  lines  and  right 
angles  will  be  attained  by  giving  the  tank  the  form  of 
the  double  cube,  in  which  the  length  is  exactly  double 
that  of  the  width,  the  width  and  depth  being  equal. 

A  window  is  the  proper  place  for  the-  aquarium.  An 
abundance  of  light  promotes  the  growth  of  the  plants, 
and  secures  that  succession  of  tiny  globules  which  the 
vegetation  sends  up  from  the  bottom,  and  which  in  the 
sunlight  rise  rapidly  to  the  surface.  This  is  one  of 
the  prettiest  features  of  an  aquarium.  These  bubbles, 
which  ascend  from  some  plants  in  continuous  streams,  are 
globules  of  oxygen,  and  are  produced  by  the  plants  which 
decompose  the  water  into  its  elements,  retaining  the 
hydrogen  for  their  own  growth,  and  liberating  the  oxygen. 

When  there  is  no  sufficient  exposure  to  the  sun,  none  of 


THE  AQUARIUM  AND  WATER  PLANTS.      277 

this  aeration  takes  place ;  the  oxygen  of  the  water  is 
exhausted,  the  plants  become  diseased,  and  the  aquarium 
is  a  failure.  The  difficulty  is,  to  give  sufficient  light, 
without  affording  too  much. 

Occasional  sunshine,  if  gentle,  is  essential,  but  if  the 
water  becomes  heated,  the  vegetation  will  be  injured  and 
the  animal  life  be  destroyed.  A  shade,  sufficient  to  admit 
the  light,  but  to  retard  the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun,  will  be 
beneficial. 

Ground  glass,  or  oiled  paper,  may  be  used ;  in  fact, 
any  thing  that  will  admit  light  without  heat. 

Suppose  we  have  constructed  our  aquarium.  The  bot- 
tom may  be  formed  of  loam  and  sand,  or  of  small  pebbles 
and  sand,  in  which  almost  any  aquatic  plant  will  flourish. 

In  planting,  remove  a  few  pebbles,  lay  out  the  roots,  and, 
by  replacing  the  pebbles,  hold  them  in  their  place. 

For  ordinary  tanks,  almost  any  of  the  common  aquatic 
plants  found  in  brooks  or  ponds  will  be  suitable. 

It  is  an  interesting  fact,  that  the  coarsest  plants  soon 
adapt  themselves  to  circumstances,  and  that  their  growth 
becomes  more  delicate.  The  common  Pond  weed  (Pota- 
mogeton)  appears  too  rank  a  plant  for  an  aquarium, 
but  in  less  than  a  month  its  character  becomes  changed  ; 
24 


278  THE    AQUARIUM    AND   WATER   PLANTS. 

it  throws  out  delicate  white  roots,  sheds  its  coarse  foliage, 
and  acquires  a  smaller,  neater,  and  more  delicately  veined 
dress  of  leaves,  and  is  a  beautiful  plant. 

The  same  may  be  said  of  the  pretty  Starwort  (Calli- 
triche),  which  acquires  a  lovely  emerald  hue  and  a  neat 
growth. 

The  Callitriche  ( C.  aquaticd)  of  our  streams  differs  some- 
what from  the  European,  but  is  a  very  pretty  plant.  The 
flowers  are  minute  and  solitary,  but  the  leaf  is  very  orna- 
mental. It  is  a  pretty  little  annual ;  grows  in  Roxbury, 
near  Boston. 

The  Limnocharis  Humboldtii  is  a  splendid  water  plant ; 
an  exotic,  and  producing  bright  yellow  flowers  in  abun- 
dance all  summer,  of  the  size  of  a  half-dollar.  It  is 
probably  more  easily  grown  than  any  water  plant,  for, 
though  a  green-house  inhabitant,  our  parlors  would  be 
quite  warm  enough  for  it  in  summer. 

The  pretty  white  Lily  (Nymphcea  odorata)  of  our  rivers 
and  ponds  will  do  well,  but  needs  a  large  tank. 

The  same  may  be  said  of  the  beautiful  blue  Lily  of  the 
Nile  (N.  ccerulea),  which  will  even  bloom  out  of  doors  in 
summer,  but  which  requires  care  and  heat  to  carry  it 
safely  through  the  winter.  This  and  the  Limnocharis, 


THE   AQUARIUM    AND   WATER   PLANTS. 


279 


together,  make  a  splendid   show.     They  may  be  obtained 
at  many  of  our  green-houses. 

The  Vallisneria  Spiralis,  or  Tapegrass,  is  a  very  pretty 
plant  in  an  aquarium,  and  flourishes  well.  It  is  a  common 
inhabitant  ot  slow  rivers,  and  its  flowering  and  fructifica- 
tion are  very  curious. 


Callitriche  or  Starwort. 


Vallisneria  Spiralis. 


The  Anacharis  Canadensis,  a  common  inhabitant  of  oui 
streams  and  ponds,  is  by  no  means  the  homely  plant,  in  an 
aquarium,  which  its  name  implies.  The  name  signifies 
"  wholly  unattractive."  It  will  do  well  in  any  situation,  and 


280  THE   AQUARIUM   AND   WATER   PLANTS. 

grow  very  beautiful  as  its  foliage  becomes  adapted  to  the 


case. 


Alisma  Plantago,  or  Water  Plantain,  is  a  pretty  plant, 
with  varying  leaves,  some  round,  others  ovate,  others 
oblong,  and  producing  small  whitish  flowers.  It  is  found 
very  plentifully  in  ditches. 


Myriophyllum  Spicatum. 

The  various  species  of  Myriophyllum,  or  Water  Milfoil, 
are  rapid  growing  plants.  Of  these,  the  best  are  M.  spica- 
tum,  a  common  inhabitant  of  deep  waters,  and  M.  amli- 
guum,  with  its  varieties,  a  native  of  ponds  and  ditches. 

The  many  varieties  of  Potamogeton,  or  Pond  Weed,  are 


THE   AQUARIUM   AND   WATER  PLANTS.  281 

all  pretty  plants,  of  easy  cultivation.  Those  most  com- 
monly met  with  are  perfoliatus,  fluitans,  natans,  and 
heterophyllus.  They  bloom  above  water,  and  need 
constant  thinning,  or  they  would  occupy  the  whole 
tank. 


Potamogeton. 

The  pretty  Sagittaria,  or  Arrowhead,  producing  its  spike 
of  white  flowers  in  August,  should  not  be  overlooked, 
or  its  near  neighbor  on  the  river  shallows,  the  Pickerel 
Weed  (Pontederia  Cordatd},  so  conspicuous  for  its  purple 
flowers  from  July  until  autumn. 
24* 


282  THE   AQUARIUM    AND   WATER   PLANTS. 

The  Water  Star  Grass  (Scholleria  Graminea),  is  a  little 
grassy  plant,  producing  its  pale  yellow  flowers  in  summer. 
The  growth  is  wholly  beneath  the  water,  the  flowers  only 
coming  to  the  surface. 

The  Water  Buttercups  (Eanunculus  Aquatilis  and 
Purshii),  the  former  with  white,  the  latter  with  yellow 


Ranunculus  Aquatilis. 

flowers,  are  beautiful  aquatics.  The  divisions  of  the 
foliage  of  the  former  are  particularly  graceful  and 
pretty,  and  no  lover  of  beauty  who  has  once  grown  it 
would  be  without  it. 

The  pretty  Water  Violet  (Hottonia   Inflata)  is   a  little 


THE   AQUARIUM    AND   WATER   PLANTS.  283 

gem  of  a  plant ;  the  leaves  are  curious,  and  the  flowers 
rise  on  a  stem  whorled  at  the  joints,  and  are  at  once 
interesting  and  ornamental. 

All  the  Bladderworts  ( Utricularia)  are  pretty  and  com- 
mon plants.  U.  inflata  and  vulgaris  are  the  most  common. 

But  we  are  sensible  of  the  difficulty  of  giving  any  thing 
like  a  complete  list  of  the  many  natives  of  our  ponds 
and  streams  adapted  to  the  aquarium.  These  we  have 
mentioned  are,  with  the  exception  of  the  exotics,  to  be 
found  every  where,  but  there  are  many  others  equally 
common,  and  no  less  beautiful. 

Our  advice  to  the  amateur  is,  go  to  the  nearest  pond 
or  stream,  transplant  what  seems  to  you  suitable,  and 
watch  their  growth  and  development.  You  will  find 
enough  to  admire  in  what  are  called  our  commonest 
weeds,  for  the  many  species  of  water  plants  have  been 
sadly  neglected,  and  their  beauty  is  not  appreciated. 

Some  bloom  above,  some  below  the  water ;  some  pro- 
duce foliage  floating  on  the  surface,  others  _.  have  it 
suspended  in  the  water.  New  plants  will  give  you 
new  beauties,  and  you  will  the  more  reverence  the 
power  of  the  Creator,  by  the  study  of  these,  his  almost 
unknown  works. 


284  THE   AQUARIUM   AND   WATER   PLANTS. 

As  we  have  before  said,  the  great  element  of  success  is 
proportioning  the  quantity  of  animal  and  vegetable  life. 

The  usual  rule  is,  two  fish  to  every  gallon  of  water, 
with  snails  to  eat  up  any  slime  or  refuse.  If  well 
managed,  the  water  need  never  be  changed.  To  attain 
this,  you  must  use  only  healthy  plants,  and  not  too 
many  of  them,  and  have  the  bottom  of  clean  pebbles 
and  sand. 

If  the  water  evaporates,  it  must  of  course  be  re- 
newed, and  should  it  become  stagnant,  it  may  be  aerated 
by  turning  portions  of  it  from  one  vessel  to  another. 
Of  course  if  decay  of  the  plants  takes  place,  or  animals 
die  in  the  water,  the  only  remedy  is  to  empty,  thoroughly 
cleanse  all,  and  begin  anew. 

The  Wardian  case  and  aquarium  may  often  be  very 
prettily  combined  by  raising  rock-work  in  the  water, 
planting  ferns,  and  other  moisture-loving  plants  upon  it, 
and  covering  the  whole  with  glass. 

Where  access  to  water  can  be  easily  had,  a  fountain 
in  the  centre  might  be  contrived,  and  the  effect  would 
be  most  beautiful.  There  is,  however,  a  water  plant 
which  will  thrive  very  well  in  the  parlor,  and  require 
but  little  care. 


THE  AQUARIUM  AND  WATER  PLANTS.      285 

About  the  middle  of  November,  procure  a  large  bowl,  or 
wide-mouthed  vase,  or,  what  is  better,  one  of  those  fancy 
stands,  representing  the  trunk  of  a  tree.  Fill  it  with 
water,  and  in  it  set  a  plant  of  Sarracenia  Purpurea,  the  com- 
mon side-saddle  flower,  or  pitcher  plant,  of  our  meadows. 

This  plant  is  not  only  remarkable  for  its  curious 
pitchers,  but  is  very  ornamental  in  flower.  With  thi^ 
treatment  it  will  soon  begin  to  grow  ;  young  leaves,  01 
rather  pitchers,  will  be  produced ;  the  flower  buds  wil\ 
appear,  and  all  winter  the  plant  will  be  a  mass  of 
fresh  foliage.  The  only  care  is  to  keep  the  leaves  clean, 
and  to  refill  the  bowl  when  the  water  evaporates. 

In  conclusion,  let  us  say,  that  in  all  the  details  of 
management  there  is  no  teacher  so  good  as  experience. 
In  a  volume  like  the  present  we  can  only  lay  down  gen- 
eral rules.  The  little  minutiae,  the  daily  care,,  the  cease- 
less routine  of  attention,  on  which  success  so  largely 
depends,  we  cannot  prescribe.  Each  amateur  will  find 
those  rules  suited  to  his  own  case  by  experience  and 
practice ;  but  we  trust  we  have,  in  our  limited  space, 
said  enough  to  urge  upon  all  to  undertake  the  study 
of  water  plants,  and  the  care  and  pleasure  of  an 
aquarium. 


The  radiant  blossoms,  ever  smiling,  tarn 
To  gaze  up  to  the  Heaven. 


CHAPTER      XVI 


HOW   TO    GROW   SPECIMEN   PLANTS. 


PECIMEN  PLANTS  call  for  a  few  words 
before  closing  this  portion  of  our  vol- 
ume, for  there  is  no  department  of  flori- 
culture so  generally  neglected.  To  grow  a  plant,  and  to 
grow  it  well,  are  two  very  different  things ;  the  former 
may  be  donev  by  the  mere  tyro,  who  simply  pots  his 

(286) 


HOW  TO  GROW  SPECIMEN   PLANTS.  287 

plant  in  good  soil,  and  supplies  water  enough  to  keep  it  in 
vigorous  growth ;  the  latter  is  one  of  the  highest  arts  of 
horticulture,  and  very  few  of  our  professed  gardeners  un- 
derstand any  thing  about  it. 

The  general  ignorance  on  this  subject  is  the  more 
surprising,  as  all  are  ready  to  admit  the  beauty  of  a  well- 
grown  plant,  and  to.  decry  the  long-jointed,  straggling 
specimens,  so  often  a  disgrace  to  our  collections.  Yet  we 
see  our  green-houses  filled  with  illy-grown  plants,  poor, 
drawn  specimens,  struggling  up  to  the  light,  and  crowned 
by  a  bunch  of  bloom,  on  stems  several  feet  long,  and  entirely 
destitute  of  foliage.  All  this  is  doing  violence  to  nature ; 
in  their  wild  state,  free  and  unconfined  in  the  open  air, 
most  plants  and  trees  are  symmetrical  pictures  of  beauty. 
Nature  does  all  things  well,  and  art  but  approaches  perfec- 
tion when  it  approximates  to  nature.  Could  our  green- 
houses be  ample  enough  to  allow  to  each  plant  the  same 
space  and  conditions  of  growth  which  it  obtains  in  its 
native  climate,  could  we  allow  free  room  for  both 
roots  and  branches,  each  plant  would  be  a  specimen 
needing  only  the  free  use  of  the  knife  to  repress 
and  prune  out  too  great  luxuriance.  Nature  would  do  all 
the  rest ;  a  tree  would  develop  into  a  tree,  and  when  roots 


288  HOW  TO  GROW   SPECIMEN  PLANTS. 

and  branches  were,  by  a  growth  of  a  series  of  years,  prepared 
for  the  development,  the  display  of  flowers  and  fruit  would 
equal  that  of  the  same  species  in  its  native  clime.  In  like 
manner  a  bush,  herb,  or  annual  would  attain  all  its  full 
luxuriance  and  proportions,  and  the  art  of  growing  speci- 
men plants  be  simple  indeed.  But  our  space  is  limited,  the 
luxuriance  of  roots  and  branches  must  be  restrained,  and 
the  plant,  by  the  cramping  of  the  roots  and  pruning  of  the 
branches,  forced  into  early  bloom.  The  desideratum  is, 
therefore,  to  obtain  as  much  bloom  as  possible  in  a  small 
space.  The  question,  —  How  is  this  to  be  done  ?  we 
answer,  —  By  growing  specimen  plants. 

It  is  a  prevalent  error  that  an  illy-grown  plant  produces 
more  bloom  than  one  well-grown ;  the  former  may  come 
sooner  into  bloom,  but  the  flowers  will  neither  be  as  fine 
or  as  plenty  as  on  the  latter. 

There  are  two  methods  of  growing  specimen  plants: 
one  by  confining  the  plant  within  a  wire  frame,  and  tying 
out  the  shoots  so  as  finally  to  hide  it  completely  with 
foliage  and  flowers,  or  by  tying  the  shoots  to  stakes  cause 
them  to  assume  a  regular  position,  which  stakes  are  soon 
hidden  by  the  foliage.  The  other  method  is,  to  grow  the 
plant  slowly,  so  that  the  shoots  become  stout  and  stiff, 


HOW  TO   GROW   SPECIMEN   PLANTS.  289 

the  plant  bushy,  and  able  to  bear  the  weight  of  bloom 
and  foliage ;  the  former  is  best  for  climbers,  or  half- 
climbers,  but  is  much  used  by  those  \vho  grow  their  plants 
quickly;  the  shoots  are  weak,  and  without  supports  the 
plant  would  have  no  shape  ;  the  latter  is  the  true  way, 
but  the  plants  must  be  grown  slowly,  as  otherwise  the 
requisite  stoutness  cannot  be  attained. 

The  one  rule  to  be  observed,  whether  in  growing  speci- 
men plants  for  exhibition  or  for  home  decoration,  is,  Grow 
your  plants  slowly, 

We  copy  a  few  hints  from  an  English  work,  where  the 
author  condemns  growing  plants  with  supports,  but 
acknowledging  that  thus  more  blooms  may  be  brought 
into  sight,  declares  it  necessary  in  competing  for  prizes, 
as  the  plants  thus  grown  bear  carriage  well,  which  those 
naturally  grown  do  not.  The  distinction  observed  in  his 
remarks  is  between  plants  naturally  grown  or  raised  for 
home  decoration,  and  those  artificially  supported  or  grown 
for  exhibition.  We  have  also,  in  many  instances,  changed 
the  language,  and  made  many  interpolations,  in  order  to 
adapt  the  article  to  our  own  locality ;  we  wish,  however,  to 
give  due  credit  to  the  writer,  though  in  some  things  his 
statements  are  erroneous :  these  we  have  corrected. 
25 


i 


290  HOW   TO   GROW   SPECIMEN   PLANTS. 

The  great  difference  between  growing  plants  for  home 
decoration  and  for  exhibition  will  hardly  be  realized. 
There  was  always  an  opposite  mode  of  treatment  required 
in  many  particulars,  but  the  system  of  showing  has 
become  so  widely  opposed  to  judicious  management  at 
home,  that  gardening  for  the  home  and  the  foreign 
department  affect  us  like  two  different  sciences.  The 
necessary  preparation  for  transmission  from  one  place  to 
another,  and  constant  jumbling  about,  has  converted  all 
our  natural  plants  into  artificial  ones.  Not  one  produc- 
tion in  a  hundred  is  shown  in  its  natural  form.  We  can 
excuse  this  when  we  remember  that  plants  have  to  be 
taken  for  miles,  jumbling  up  hill  and  'down  dale,  over 
rough  roads  and  stone  streets,  before  they  reach  their 
destination,  and  then  have  to  be  got  into  the  carts  and 
got  home  again  the  same  day  ;  for,  if  the  branches  were 
in  their  natural  state,  playing  freely  in  the  air,  they  would 
be  frayed  to  destruction  by  the  mere  action  of  rubbing 
against  each  other.  But  we  must  own,  at  the  same  time, 
that  a  plant,  with  every  branch  and  bloom  constrained  in 
its  place,  and  bound  mechanically  to  some  formal  sup- 
port, is  no  more  fit  to  compare  with  one  fairly  grown 
and  unconstrained  than  an  artificial  plant  would  be  with 


HOW  TO   GROW   SPECIMEN   PLANTS.  291 

a  real  one.  It  is  to  the  ambition  of  growers  to  produce 
enormous  plants  that  we  trace  the  great  change  which  has 
taken  place  in  our  exhibitions. 

There  is  as  much  difference  in  a  plant  grown  properly, 
and  standing  undisturbed  in  its  place  at  home,  and  one 
grown  artificially  in  an  iron  cage,  as  it  were,  and  all  the 
branches  and  blooms  bent  about  so  as  to  come  to  the 
outside  surface,  as  there  is  between  the  sham  flower  and 
the  real  one  ;  and  he  who  for  one  moment  gives  himself 
the  trouble  to  think  of  the  formal,  stiff,  and  unnatural 
shape  of  plants  at  a  show,  and  the  beautiful  free  growth 
of  the  specimens  in  a  private  collection  or  a  nursery, 
where  there  is  no  showing,  will  not  hesitate  to  pronounce 
those  at  a  show  altogether  spoiled  for  the  lovers  of  plants. 

Nevertheless,  those  at  a  show  form  masses  of  flowers, 
which  in  some  measure  compensate  for  multitudes  of 
wooden  legs  and  iron  bird  cages.  Geraniums,  as  for- 
merly exhibited  without  sticks  were  very  beautiful,  far 
before  any  thing  we  now  have  as  specimens  of  growth, 
though  the  prodigies  of  the  present  day  rank  far  higher 
as  specimens  of  mechanical  ingenuity  and  skill.  The 
system  is  altered  ;  plants  naturally  grown  would  stand  no 
chance  against  those  with  wooden  legs  ;  the  plants  could 


292  HOW   TO   GROW   SPECIMEN   PLANTS. 

not  be  as  large,  nor  could  they  show  so  many  flowers  with- 
out being  drawn.  As  now  shown,  they  are  always  drawn, 
and  legs  or  supports  are  given  them  because  drawn  plants 
cannot  support  themselves. 

This  mode  of  exhibition  is  a  perversion  of  the  nature  of 
the  plant,  and  we  can  see  no  remedy  for  it  unless  it  is  in 
the  power  of  the  judges  to  control  it  by  giving  the  pref- 
erence to  plants  naturally  grown,  and  without  legs  or 
supports. 

In  our  remarks  we  do  not,  of  course,  moan  to  include 
climbers,  half- climbers,  or  trailers;  we  only  censure  growing 
azaleas  on  hoops,  pelargoniums  on  sticks,  et  id  omne 
genus. 

The  best  growers  freely  acknowledge  that  props  are 
objectionable,  for  the  reasons  we  have  given  above,  but 
they  are  necessary  while  size  remains  so  captivating  as  it 
is  at  present,  and  he  is  the  best  artist,  we  cannot  say 
gardener,  who  can  make  his  props  the  least  conspicuous. 

The  cultivation  of  plants  for  show,  then,  involves  an 
early  and  intimate  acquaintance  with  the  use  of  supports, 
and  in  proportion  as  a  man  acquires  this,  he  becomes  care- 
less as  to  whether  his  plants  are  drawn  or  not.  He 
stops  his  plants  back  that  they  may  make  more  shoots 


HOW   TO   GROW   SPECIMEN   PLANTS.  293 

than  usual,  or  than  is  graceful,  because  he  wants  all  the 
branches  he  can  procure  to  make  a  surface  of  flowers, 
and  as  soon  as  the  plant  assumes  any  thing  like  a  mod- 
erate size,  twigs  are  placed  to  guide  them  outwards  or 
upwards,  and  at  equal  distances ;  for  all  the  harm  it 
would  do,  he  might  almost  roll  the  plants  about  the  floor, 
without  displacing  a  shoot  or  leaf.  As  the  plant  advances 
beyond  the  distance  provided  for  by  the  sticks  or  twigs 
that  support  them,  others  must  be  placed  there  for  as  much 
more  growth  as  the  specimen  is  likely  to  make.  This 
applies  to  all  kinds  of  plants  grown  by  propping  with 
wooden  supports,  —  roses  in  pots,  fuchsias,  pelargoniums, 
geraniums,  to  many  of  the  hard-wooded  plants,  verbenas, 
petunias,  and  many  others. 

There  is  yet  another  unnatural  and  yet  popular  mode 
of  growing  plants  for  show.  We  have  seen  complete 
iron  frame-works  or  cages,  and  inside  these  the  plants, 
such  as  Rondoletia,  Hovea,  Eriostemon,  Chorizema,  and 
many  other  plants  of  great  merit,  crowded,  the  stems  dis- 
torted all  manner  of  ways,  totally  destroying  the  nature  of 
the  plant,  concealing  its  habit,  and  contriving  to  bring 
just  the  shoots  through  upon  the  surface. 

It  is  true  these  cages  are  made  of  a  conical  or  a  pyram- 
25* 


294  HOW   TO   GROW   SPECIMEN   PLANTS. 

idal  form,  and  by  gardeners  of  taste,  as  near  the  natural 
form  of  the  plant  as  may  be,  and  that  sometimes  the 
shoots  are  allowed  to  protrude  as  far  as  they  safely  can, 
to  break  some  of  the  stiffness  which  too  many  have  not 
the  ability  to  conceal ;  but  constraint  seems  to  be  the 
prevailing  appearance,  and  some  of  the  most  graceful  of 
our  favorite  plants  are  thereby  rendered  artificial.  The 
growing  of  plants  for  exhibition  is,  under  these  circum- 
stances, almost  a  science  of  itself,  and  the  chief  evil  to 
avoid  is  that  of  allowing  the  specimens  to  get  ahead  of 
the  training,  whatever  that  may  be.  Strong  supports  for 
the  centre  branch,  and  very  little  else,  will  do  if  they 
are  to  remain  at  home;  but  for  exhibition,  the  several 
branches  must  be  supported  independently,  with  upright 
props  of  wood,  until  the  specimens  have  attained,  within 
a  season  or  two,  the  requisite  size  ;  then  they  ought  to 
have  their  principal  shift,  and  their  "cages"  must  be 
put  to  the  pot  or  tub,  and  the  branches  trained  to 
the  outer  wires  instead  of  to  the  uprights.  By  keep- 
ing this  frame  well  within  the  rim  of  the  pots  with 
regard  to  size,  and  allowing  for  the  growth  of  a  few 
inches  outside,  the  plants  will  soon  conceal  the  obnox- 
ious appearance  of  the  frame,  because  in  many  plants 


HOW   TO    GROW   SPECIMEN   PLANTS.  295 

even  these  shoots  may  be  stopped  back,  and  the  lat- 
erals make  all  their  growth  outside.  It  is  at  this  time, 
when  we  may  at  least  either  prune  back  irregularly,  or 
leave  the  uneven  growth  to  make  its  own  way,  that 
a  good  deal  of  the  stiffness  may  be  got  rid  of,  and 
some  approximation  to  nature  be  made.  Epacris,  Hovea, 
Chorizema,  and  many  other  plants  which  are  naturally 
weak  in  their  branches  or  straggling  in  their  growth, 
being  assisted  up  to  a  certain  point  and  then  allowed 
to  push  naturally,  may  be  produced  much  better  even 
in  constrained  growth,  and  may,  to  unobservant  specta- 
tors, appear  to  show  a  fine  natural  cultivation.  The 
more  robust  heaths,  ixoras,  and  many  other  hard- wooded 
plants,  can  be  well  grown  without  much  support,  if  not 
grown  too  fast ;  but  if  too  much  excited,  they  will  be 
weak,  and  need  props  in  plenty,  instead  of  here  and 
there  one. 

The    Fuchsia,    which    is    a    favorite    exhibition    plant, 
may    be    grown    very   rapidly,   but    always     at    the    ex 
pense    of    quality.       The   fuchsia,    for   style    and    appear 
ance,    as  well    as    for   the  full  development   of   the  caps 
bilities    of    a   variety,    should   be    grown    in    a   pyramid  \ 
or   conical    form,  and    full    of  branches.     They  may    ?  «o 


296  HOW  TO   GROW   SPECIMEN  PLANTS. 

be  well  shown,  and  with  fine  effect,  as  standards,  with 
an  umbrella-shaped  head,  —  a  mode  of  growth  specially 
adapted  for  showing  off  the  drooping  flowers.  This  mode 
requires  much  care  ;  it  is  very  difficult,  unless  the  plant  is 
grown  on  a  wire  frame  or  hoop. 

To  grow  fuchsias  well  and  effectually  the  plant  should 
not  be  hurried.  It  should  be  strong  in  the  main  shoot, 
and  not  be  so  weak  as  to  require  a  prop.  It  should,  at 
the  end  of  the  season,  be  allowed  to  rest ;  as  soon  as  it 
indicates  a  desire  to  grow  it  should  be  re-potted,  not  in  too 
rich  a  compost,  and  be  pruned  with  short  branches  at  the 
bottom,  shorter  as  we  go  upwards,  till  they  are  mere  spurs 
when  we  get  half  way  up,  and  tolerably  close  at  the  top. 
By  growing  the  plant  gently  in  the  green-house,  the 
branches  of  the  season  will  be  multiplied  greatly,  and 
with  a  very  little  checking,  form  a  beautiful  close  cone  or 
pyramid  (according  as  the  plant  has  been  pruned),  full 
of  foliage  and  bloom,  and  with  colors  in  perfection.  The 
fuchsia  will  also  grow  well  as  a  bush.  We  have,  to  do 
this,  to  stop  the  cutting  when  it  is  two  inches  high,  and 
to  continue  stopping  all  growth  which  is  too  vigorous, 
and  all  early  growth,  directly  two  eyes  can  be  left,  so 
that  by  inducing  lateral  shoots  we  secure  a  bush  in 


HOW   TO   GROW  SPECIMEN   PLANTS.  297 

miniature  at  an  early  stage,  and  need  only  shorten 
such  branches  as  are  getting  on  too  fast  for  the  re- 
mainder. All  weakly  shoots  should  be  cut  away  close 
home,  for  they  only  weaken  the  rest  and  confuse  the 
order;  branches  should  not  cross  each  other,  nor  should 
the  plant  get  confused  by  reason  of  the  number  of 
branches  allowed  to  remain.  The  habit  of  the  variety 
under  cultivation  should  be  studied,  for  there  are  many 
kinds  grown  which  are  worthless;  a  bad  habit  is  seldom 
compensated  for  by  a  good  flower,  because  the  fuchsia 
depends  for  its  value  a  great  deal  on  habit. 

Prince  Albert,  Gem  of  the  Season,  Duchess  of  Lan- 
caster, Prince  of  Wales,  Souvenir  de  Chiswick,  Madame 
Sontag,  and  Venus  de  Merlici,  are  all  of  fine  habit.  Few 
can  equal  them  in  this  respect,  while  all  may  lay  claim 
to  most  of  the  requisites  of  a  good  flower.  Set  them  in 
pots,  in  moderate  soil  (not  rich) ;  and  after  this  give  them 
only  water  when  they  want  it,  and  all  the  air  and  light 
you  can.  They  will  scarcely  require  a  shoot  to  be 
lopped ;  so  fine  is  their  habit,  that  unless  accident 
blighted  the  leader,  they  would  be  compact,  and  at 
their  season  full  of  bloom.  At  the  end.  of  the  year, 
when,  as  it  were,  they  had  done  their  work,  the}  would 


298  HOW   TO   GROW   SPECIMEN   PLANTS. 

lose  their  leaves,  and  only  require  to  be  kept  from 
the  frost;  they  would  want  larger  pots  at  the  begin- 
ning of  the  year,  all  the  side  branches  shortened,  and  if 
the  leaders  chance  to  be  injured,  they  should  be  short- 
ened to  a  strong  shoot,  and  that  trained  upward  by  a 
temporary  support ;  but  it  is  far  better  to  save  the 
original  leaders.  The  next  year's  growth  would  be 
better  than  the  first.  It  would,  however,  be  necessary 
to  thin  out  many  of  the  shoots,  because  they  would 
otherwise  be  too  thick  and  confused.  They  would  be 
one  mass  of  bloom  from  top  to  bottom,  and  models  of 
what  fuchsias  should  be  ;  but  they  must  be  grown  without 
heat  the  second  year  as  well  as  the  first,'  and  as  a  gen- 
eral rule  fuchsias  should  have  no  artificial  heat;  they 
should  be  grown  in  a  green-house,  though  we  have 
often  seen  them  out  doors ;  but  the  changes  of  weather  are 
too  severe  for  them,  and  though  of  brighter  and  firmer 
color,  and  more  robust  growth,  they  lack  much  of  the 
grace  and  delicacy  of  tinting,  which  is  so  attractive  in 
the  fuchsia.  While  growing  they  should  have  plenty 

of  water,   and   be    shaded  a  little    from   the   intense   heat 

f 
of   our  summer's  sun.     The   white   corollaed  varieties  are 

all  of  weak  growth,   and  not  adapted  for  specimens ;  the 


HOW   TO   GROW   SPECIMEN   PLANTS.  299 

double  varieties  are,  many  of  them,  of  good  habit,  but  are  no 
favorites  of  ours ;  the  best  of  all  is  Sir  Colin  Campbell. 

To  grow  plants  for  home  gratification  alone  we  need 
not  be  at  half  the  trouble,  and  certainly  produce  twice 
the  effect.  We  may  allow  them  to  grow  without  ex- 
traordinary support.  They  have  at  most  to  be  removed 
Dn  a  hand-barrow  from  the  stove  or  green-house  to  the 
conservatory,  and  the  natural  play  of  the  branches  for 
that  short  distance  damages  nothing.  The  shortening  of 
branches,  the  training  and  general  management,  have 
reference  only  to  their  intended  situations,  and  the  prin- 
cipal thing  to  guard  against  is,  not  to  excite  any  thing 
too  much. 

Very  few  things  bear  growing  fast;  it  always  makes 
a  greater  distance  between  the  leaves,  and  consequently 
the  plant  looks  poorly.  But  this  is  of  the  greatest 
consequence,  because  more  conspicuous  when  the  plant 
comes  into  flower,  for  bloom  depends  upon  the  num- 
ber of  branches  in  a  given  space,,  and  if  the  branches 
and  leaves  are  more  distant,  the  bloom  must  be  so 
likewise.  This  is  shown  very  conspicuously  in  plants 
which  bloom  from  the  axils  of  the  leaves,  as  fuchsias, 
epacris,  and  others  of  the  same  habit.  Besides,  com- 


800        HOW  TO  GROW  SPECIMEN  PLANTS. 

pactness  is  a  great  point  in  all  plants;  not  when  car- 
ried to  confusion,  which  should  always  be  avoided,  but 
when  induced  by  moderate  growth  and  judicious  prun- 
ing and  stopping. 

The  Hovea,  a  plant  very  popular  in  England,  but  little 
grown  in  this  country,  is  never  seen  in  good  condition; 
yet  its  treatment  is  very  simple.  We  give,  for  illus- 
tration, the  method  of  growing  a  specimen,  and  the 
rules  apply  to  many  hard-wooded  plants  of  kindred  nature 
and  habit.  It  naturally  grows  fast  in  excitable  compost, 
but  can  scarcely  be  grown  with  too  little  dung,  or  soil 
too  simple,  so  it  be  healthy  and  clean.  The  earliest 
stopping,  even  when  first  struck  as  a  cutting,  is  neces- 
sary ;  not  more  than  the  pair  of  leaves  next  the  soil 
should  be  left,  and  the  eyes,  throwing  out  two  lateral 
shoots,  give  us  an  opportunity  of  stopping  both  at  the 
first  joint,  and  thus  obtaining  from  each  two  more 
lateral  shoots,  to  be  stopped  in  turn  for  the  same 
number  again,  and  so  continuing  until  there  is  a  per- 
fect bush ;  but  the  plant  cannot  be  neglected  many 
days.  This  constant  stopping,  until  we  have  branches 
enough,  will  produce  an  excellent  plant.  It  is,  then,  by 
taking  off  all  branches  that  are  in  the  way,  and  leaving 


HOW   TO   GROW   SPECIMEN   PLANTS.  301 

only  such  as  will  help  to  make  a  handsome  plant,  we 
may  allow  the  growth  to  go  on  till  they  bloom ;  but  after 
flowering,  the  plant  requires  pruning  as  regularly  as  a 
wall  fruit  tree,  and  the  new  shoots  must  be  watched  and 
regulated,  and  the  same  provision  made  for  the  beauty 
and  symmetry  of  shrub  as  was  made  in  the  first  instance. 
Were  the  plant  left  to  itself,  and  planted  in  a  rich  soil, 
it  could  be  made  to  grow  six  or  eight  feet  in  a  single 
season,  and  be  altogether  unmanageable  in  a  season  or 
two,  because  the  bloom  only  comes  at  the  end  of  the 
branches,  and  the  long  under  portions  are  both  leafless 
and  flowerless.  If  a  plant  has  thus,  through  neglect, 
become  shapeless  and  unmanageable,  the  evil  is  past 
cure ;  the  best  thing  to  do  is,  to  root  cuttings  and 
throw  away  the  old  plant ;  pruning  would  not  remedy 
the  evil,  for  eyes  break  reluctantly  on  old  wood,  and 
seldom  with  any  regularity.  To  grow  Heaths,  as  speci- 
mens, requires  great  care,  and  the  study  of  the  habit  of 
the  species.  Some,  like  Epacris,  run  up  to  great  length 
of  branches ;  therefore,  before  we  allow  them  to  shoot 
their  full  length,  we  must,  by  stopping,  secure  plenty 
of  them.  In  this  one  thing  lies,  also,  the  secret  of 
growing  fine  specimens  of  epacris. 
26 


I 


302       HOW  TO  GROW  SPECIMEN  PLANTS. 

Others  are  naturally  of  a  bushy  habit,  and  require 
thinning  out  rather  than  stopping.  But  in  all  plants 
we  have  to  look  well  to  the  growing  state  when  they 
are  manageable,  for  a  very  brief  neglect,  only  for  a 
single  season,  will  give  us  bare  stems,  naked  under- 
growth, ill  shapes,  and  often  unhealthy  plants,  and  the 
best  thing  we  can  do  then  is  to  strike  the  tops  of 
the  young  plant  for  young  stock,  and  to  cut  down 
the  stems  to  within  a  few  inches  of  the  pot,  for  the 
mere  chance  of  their  breaking  and  making  fresh  growth. 
There  is,  however,  one  method  by  which  we  may 
occasionally  convert  an  ugly  plant,  with  long,  naked 
stems,  into  a  handsome  standard;  but  there  are  few 
plants  which  look  well  under  such  a  change.  One  of 
these  is  the  Azalea  Indica,  in  its  numerous  species. 
If  there  be  one  straight  stem  among  them,  cut  all  the 
others  close  down,  and  cut  the  branches  of  the  single 
stem  off  up  to  the  part  where  the  head  is  to  begin ; 
top  the  shoot  to  cause  a  side  growth,  and  the  head 
will  soon  form  well,  but  until  the  head  is  large  enough 
to  be  proportioned  to  the  height  of  the  stem  the  plant 
will  look  poorly,  and  only  be  fit  to  remain  in  the 
plant-house. 


HOW   TO   GROW   SPECIMEN   PLANTS.  303 

Fuchsias  of  some  kinds,  particularly  Corymbiflora  and 
its  varieties,  naturally  carry  large  bunches  of  blossoms, 
tassel-like  at  the  ends  of  the  branches.  The  best  thing 
we  can  do  is  to  remove  all  the  side  growth  to  the  height 
we  wish  the  head  to  begin,  to  stop  all  the  other  branches 
to  two  joints,  until  we  get  a  sufficient  number  of  branches 
to  hang  all  round,  and  then  to  let  them  grow  to  bloom. 
The  pendulous  habit  of  the  plant  is  favorable  to  this, 
and  the  blooms  fairly  weigh  down  the  most  obstinate 
of  the  shoots,  so  that  the  plant  forms  a  pretty  object. 

These  varieties  of  fuchsia  do  not  receive  the  atten- 
tion their  beauties  merit ;  probably  because  they  do  not 
bloom  as  freely  as  others  with  little  care  ;  but  a  well- 
grown  plant  is  a  conspicuous  object  in  the  green-house. 
They  also  bloom  with  us  at  a  season  when  other  fuchsias 
have  not  come  on,  that  is,  from  February  to  May. 

In  growing  plants  for  exhibition,  we  excite  them  to 
what  we  call  perfection  by  restraint ;  for  convenience  of 
carrying,  we  limit  the  size,  and  thus  the  number  of  flowers  ;  to 
color,  by  unnatural  means  (this  applies  chiefly  to  out-door 
flowers) ;  to  compactness,  by  vicious  training.  Specimen 
plants  may  be  made  of  hardy  plants  and  shrubs,  and  of 
annuals.  The  pruning  and  training  must  be  adapted  to 


304  HOW   TO   GROW   SPECIMEN   PLANTS. 

the  habit  of  the  plant ;  it  is  useless  to  fight  against 
Nature.  We  may  succeed  in  producing  a  monstrosity, 
but  depart  far  from  perfection.  To  all  growers  we  say, 
study  the  habit  of  the  plant,  and  be  guided  by  Nature, 
never  attempting  to  be  Nature's  guide. 

Before  closing  our  article,  we  wish  to  give  a  list  of 
plants,  which,  generally  neglected,  make  fine  specimens. 

And  first,  the  Camellia,  a  plant  naturally  of  most  sym- 
metrical growth,  with  but  little  pruning  will  make  a 
superb  specimen. 

The  Daphne  Odorata,  never  seen  in  good  condition,  can, 
by  a  free  use  of  the  knife,  be  made  a  beautiful  plant. 

Azaleas  will  do  well,  and  may  be  grown  in  almost 
any  form. 

Acacias  are  mostly  trees,  and  seldom  make  fine  plants 
under  pot  culture.  Planted  out  in  the  green-house  bor- 
der, they  grow  large  and  look  well.  We  may,  however, 
except  some  of  the  shrubby  species  —  as  Armata,  Grandis, 
and  the  newer  kinds,  which,  being  low  growers,  do  well 
in  pots. 

Achsenia  Malvaviscus  :  a  favorite  plant  with  us,  and 
a  superb  sight  when  in  fruit  and  flower.  It  possesses 
the  advantage  of  being  never  out  of  bloom.  The  kin- 


HOW   TO   GROW   SPECIMEN   PLANTS.  305 

dred  species  of  Hibiscus  are  pretty  plants,  but  not  gen- 
erally grown. 

Allamandas,  Kennedia,  Stephanotus,  Combretum,  Rhyn- 
cospermum,  and  a  host  of  other  hard  and  soft-wooded 
climbers,  grow  to  perfection  on  balloon  trellises,  and  if 
the  foliage  is  kept  in  good  health,  are  pictures  of  beauty. 

Pelargoniums  and  Geraniums  need  only  to  be  grown 
slowly,  and  to  be  properly  pinched  to  make  side  shoots, 
and  are  among  the  finest  plants  for  specimens. 

Orchids  need  great  care,  and  the  growth  is  slow ;  but 
well  grown,  are  most  splendid  when  in  bloom.  Nothing 
can  surpass  well-grown  plants  of  Cypripedium,  Cattleya, 
Lselia,  Stanhopea,  Oncidium,  and  hosts  of  others.  The 
Cyclamen,  in  perfection,  is  most  beautiful,  and  many  of 
the  Cape  bulbs,  in  profuse  flower  and  foliage,  are  very 
pretty. 

We  need  not  now  explore  the  widely  extended  region 
of  variegated-leafed  and  ornamental-foliaged  plants.  Those 
who  have  seen  the  Cyanophyllum,  Rhopalas,  Cordylines, 
Crotons,  the  many  beautiful  Caladia,  arid  the  unap- 
proachable and  unique  Alocasia  Metallica,  need  not  be 
told  what  magnificent  plants  are  given  us  for  specimens, 
and  to  those  who  have  not  seen  them,  no  words  can 
26* 


306  HOW   TO   GROW   SPECIMEN   PLANTS. 

convey  an  idea  of  their  beauties.  In  conclusion,  we  can 
give  no  time  for  beginning  to.  grow  a  specimen  ;  for  soft- 
wooded  plants,  four  or  five  months  will  suffice  to  make 
a  specimen  from  a  cutting ;  but  many  plants  require 
years  to  approach  perfection.  The  general  rules  may  be 
laid  down  thus  :  — 

Study  the  habit  of  the  plant,  and  by  it  regulate  your 
treatment. 

Grow  your  plants  slowly,  with  plenty  of  light  (except 
orchids,  some  ferns,  and  lycopodia),  and  free  circulation 
of  air. 

Keep  the  plant  from  sudden  changes  of  temperature, 
and  never  let  it  suffer  from  want  of. 'water,  or  become 
pot  bound.  Do  not  be  afraid  to  use  the  knife  freely, — 
prune  whenever  necessary,  whatever  you  may  sacrifice. 

Grow  your  plant  well  first,  and  then  the  plant  will  give 
you  the  bloom. 


HE  grass  is  wot  with  shining  dews, 

Their  silver  bells  hang  on  each  tree, 
While  opening  flower  and  bursting  bud, 
Breathe  incense  forth  unceasingly. 


CHAPTER    XIX. 


OUT-DOOR   GARDENING.  —  HOT-BEDS. 


Uses.  —  Time  of  Preparation.  —  Construction.  —  Size.  —  Sashes.  —  Manure. 
—  Other  Materials  needed.  —  Height.  —  Materials  for  Potting.  —  Heat. — 
Planting-. —  Sowing  in  Bed.  —  Permanent  Hot-Beds.  —  Watering.  —  Air- 
ing. —  Protection. 

(307) 


308 


OUT-DOOR  GARDENING. 


HE  bright  days  of  spring  have  suc- 
ceeded to  the  cold  of  winter.  Day 
by  day  the  sun  grows  warmer,  and  in 
spite  of  the  occasional  flurries  of 
snow,  the  snowdrop  nods  in  the  sunny 
border,  the  crocus  goldens  the  garden,  and  the 
hyacinths  and  tulips  look  out  from  their  win- 
ter's sleep.  Our  window  garden,  a  source  of 
unfailing  pleasure  during  the  months  of  snow  and 
ice,  and  now  clad  in  its  spring  dress  of  glossy 
leaves  and  gay  flowers,  fails  to  satisfy,  and  only  makes 
us  long  for  a  more  extended  range,  a  larger  field  of  opera- 
tions. Even  our  Wardian  case,  always  "beautiful,  claims 
less  of  our  time,  and  we  eagerly  watch  each  new 
growth  in  the  out-door  garden.  But  as  yet  it  is  far  too 
early  to  begin  our  out-door  work.  Did  we  plant  our  seeds, 
they  would  decay  in  the  cold  ground ;  the  delicate  roots  of 
bedding  plants  would  be  chilled  and  die.  There  are  yet  to 
be  many  days  before  we  can  trust  to  the  capricious  weather, 
many  days  during  which,  little  by  little,  the  earth  will  be- 
come dry  and  warm  under  the  potent  heat  of  the  sun  and 
the  sweet  influences  of  the  vernal  breezes, 

But  still  there  is  work  that  may  be  done,  though  it  is  as 


HOT-BEDS.  309 

}Tet  too  early  to  uncover  the  flower  borders,  or  to  turn  over 
the  still  damp  and  heavy  soil. 

We  may  build  our  hot-beds,  and  in  these  bring  forward 
the  seeds  and  plants,  so  as  to  be  ready  to  avail  ourselves  of 
the  first  days  of  settled  weather,  and  to  insure  an  early 
display  of  floral  treasure  in  the  flower  garden. 

It  is  out  of  our  province,  in  this  connection,  to  treat  of 
the  hot-bed  as  a  means  of  forcing  early  vegetables,  or  of 
bringing  forward  seeds  for  the  kitchen  garden.  Suffice  it 
to  say,  that  by  means  of  it,  if  Well  managed,  we  may  have 
such  spring  vegetables  as  lettuce  and  radishes,  from  Feb- 
ruary until  they  mature  in  the ,  open  ground ;  and  that  the 
process  of  starting  vegetable  seeds  is  the  same  as  that  we 
employ  for  flower  seeds. 

"We  propose  but  to  treat  of  the  flower  garden  and  its 
adornments,  and  it  will  be  quite  early  enough  for  our  flower 
seeds  if  we  start  our  hot-beds  about  the  first  of  April. 

The  making  of  a  hot-bed  which  will  keep  the  heat,  and 
not  burn  the  plants,  is  by  no  means  an  easy  task,  and 
often,  in  this  branch  of  horticulture,  the  most  experienced 
gardeners  fail ;  the  process  seems  very  easy,  but  in  this,  as 
in  most  gardening  operations,  success  depends  on  a  careful 
attention  to  little  details. 


310  HOT-BEDS. 

•  A  friend  has  kindly  furnished  us  with  his  method,  and, 
as  we  cannot  improve  upon  it,  we  give  his  instructions 
almost  in  his  own  words,  gladly  availing  ourselves  of  the 
aid  of  one  who,  with  his  hot-beds,  accomplishes  wonders ; 
and  whose  flower  garden  presents  a  gayer  appearance 
than  that  of  many  who  have  unlimited  green-house  facili- 
ties at  command. 

To  those  who  have  a  green-house, "or  a  forcing  pit,  the 
hot-bed  is  not  a  necessity.  With  these  aids  it  is  easy 
to  raise  flower  seeds  and  cuttings  Sufficient  for  every 
want.  We  are  writing  more  especially  for  those  who 
have  no  green-house,  but  to  whom  flowers  are,  never- 
theless, a  necessity.  Such  must  depend  upon  the  hot- 
bed, and  we  would  tell  them  how  to  make  it. 

And  first  we  must  make  our  frame.  A  good  size  for 
our  use  is  five  by  ten  feet  square,  ten  inches  high  in 
front,  eighteen  in  the  rear ;  with  the  ends  shaped,  of 
course,  to  match.  Let  these  be  cleated  so  as  to  prevent 
warping,  and  fasten  together  at  the  corners  with  hasps. 
Let  in,  flush  with  the  edge,  narrow  strips  at  proper  dis- 
tances for  the  sashes  to  slide  on,  with  a  narrower  one  in 
the  middle  for  a  guide.  These  will  accommodate  four 
sashes  of  proper  proportions  for  glass  eight  inches  wide, 


HOT-BEDS.  311 

which  should  be  inserted  in  grooves,  rather  than  by  the 
old  method  of  puttying,  as  putty  soon  crumbles  with 
such  severe  exposure. 

Now  this  work  may  be  done  by  us,  if  we  have  but 
a  slight  mechanical  turn,  or  we  may  employ  our  carpen- 
ter, who  will  construct  the  frame  in  a  few  hours.  The 
sashes  can  be  bought  at  a  low  price,  as  they  are  always 
kept  for  sale  at  any  window  factory.  The  whole  struc- 
ture, including  sash  bars,  should  have  two  good  coats  of 
coarse  paint,  which  will  be  most  serviceable  in  protecting 
it  from  the  weather ;  and  if  we  can  contrive  to  char  any 
portions  which  touch  the  ground,  it  will  conduce  much 
to  durability  by  preventing  decay. 

As  we  design  manuring  the  garden,  we  buy  stable 
manure  in  March,  wherewithal  to  do  it.  No  matter  if 
it  be  coarse  and  cheap,  we  can  improve  the  quality  be- 
fore autumn  many  fold,  and  be  richly  rewarded  in  the 
process.  We  begin  by  throwing  it  in  a  heap,  so  as  to 
present  as  little  surface  as  possible  to  the  atmosphere, 
and  let  it  ferment,  or,  as  gardeners  say,  *'  heat." 

Our  frame  is  made. 

We  will  now  suppose  the  manure  is  ready  to  move, 
and  the  time  almost  the  first  of  April,  long  before  it 


312  HOT-BEDS. 

would  be  safe  to  put  seeds  in  the  ground,  and  when 
but  little  else  can  be  done  outside.^  Now  we  measure  a 
space  twelve  by  seven  feet  (to  give  a  projection  of  a 
foot  all  round  outside  the  frame),  on  a  spot  well  shel- 
tered from  cold  winds,  and  open  to  the  sun.  Begin  by 
setting  boards  on  edge,  secured  by  stakes,  and  fill  in, 
first  with  a  layer  of  straw,  leaves,  or  other  similar  ma- 
terial, and  then  a  layer  of  manure,  beating  it  down  with 
the  fork,  but  not  treading  it  hard.  Thus  continue,  until 
you  have  used  sufficient  litter  to  make  it,  with  the  ma- 
nure, about  two  feet  high.  Put  on  the  frame,  cover  the 
outside  bank  with  boards  laid  flat,  fill  in  with  about 
four  inches  of  tan,  put  on  the  sashes,  and  while  the  heat 
is  getting  up,  we  will  get  ready  our  seeds,  and  prepare 
materials  for  potting. 

We  shall  want  some  bits  of  charcoal  for  drainage,  from 
which  we  can  sift  the  dust  to  mix  in  the  soil  for  potting. 
We  last  fall  secured  some  excellent  peat,  laid  up  a  little 
loam,  and  saved  a  remnant  of  the  old  hot-bed  (if  we  had 
one).  These,  in  equal  parts,  with  a  generous  sprinkling 
of  the  coal  dust,  make  a  good  soil  for  present  purposes. 

In  about  a  week  after  the  bed  is  made,  the  heat  will 
be  up,  as  we  may  find  by  thrusting  a  sharp  stick  into 


HOT-BEDS.  313 

it,  and.  we  may  now  begin  to  sow  in  pots  seeds  of  such 
plants  as  are  of  slow  growth,  or  will  soonest  bear  turn- 
ing out.  A  little  practice  will  teach  us  when  is  the 
best  time  to  start  with  the  various  kinds.  Plunge  the 
pots  to  the  rim  in  the  tan,  and  the  bottom  heat  will 
soon  start  the  seeds  into  growth.  We  see  that  by  hav- 
ing the  seeds  in  our  power,  we  can  control  heat  and 
moisture  at  pleasure,  and  will  scarcely  make  a  failure, 
unless  we  are  careless  enough  to  leave  the  glass  on  too 
long  during  hot  sunshine. 

Here,  too,  we  will  start  such  summer  bulbs  and  tubers 
as  require  a  season  longer  than  ours,  and  of  others,  a 
few,  to  secure  a  longer  season  of  bloom.  Soon  we  be- 
gin to  "prick  out"  the  young  plants,  and  "pot  off"  and 
"  shift,"  in  order  that  they  may  have  a  freer  growth  than 
they  could  attain  if  all  grown  in  one  pot,  and  as  they 
are  thus  sure  to  become  more  stocky,  of  better  habit, 
and  larger  size. 

To   watch    carefully   to   prevent   burning,   to   water    as 

may   be   necessary,   to  give    air   to   prevent   damping   off, 

and   to    close    before    nightfall,    covering   with    mats,    are 

amongst  our  cares ;  until  now,  the  ground  is  warm  enough 

27 


314  HOT-BEDS. 

to  begin  to  "turn  out"  the  young  plants,  —  which  opera- 
tion brings  us  to  the  out-door  garden. 

The  duty  of  the  hot-bed  is  done ;  and  we  have  now 
only  to  store  away  frame  and  sashes  in  a  dry  place  for 
another  spring. 

We  have  said,  plant  the  seeds  in  pots.  This  is  the 
best  plan,  as  thus  the  young  plants  suffer  less  in  trans- 
planting ;  but  we  may  sow  the  seed  directly  in  the  hot- 
bed. To  do  this,  sift  fine  rich  loam  on  the  manure 
(instead  of  the  tan,  as  above  directed),  and  in  this,  plant 
the  seeds  in  drills  :  the  loam  should  be  about  eight  inches 
deep,  and  the  seed  should  not  be  sown  for  a  few  days, 
in  order  to  let  the  fierce  heat  and  steam  pass  off.  A 
far  better  and  more  durable  hot-bed  may  be  constructed 
of  masonry.  Excavate  trenches  of  proper  depth,  below 
the  reach  of  frost,  and  build  up  walls  of  solid  rough 
stone,  to  about  eighteen  inches  above  the  ground  be- 
hind, and  eight  inches  in  front ;  or,  if  preferred,  the  walls 
above  ground  may  be  of  brick  laid  in  cement ;  on  these 
walls  place  the  sill  and  cross  bars  for  the  sliding  sash; 
fill  in  the  manure  and  loam,  or  tan,  and  manage  as 
above.  A  hot-bed,  constructed  as  thus  directed,  will  last 
for  twenty  years ;  and  even  if  not  wanted  for  a  hot-bed, 


HOT-BEDS.  315 

is  very  useful  for  growing  violets  and  polyanthus  for 
early  blooming,  as  directed  in  a  former  chapter,  or  for 
protecting  roses  and  half-hardy  plants  during  the  winter. 
The  accompanying  figure  may  give  an  idea  of  its  appear- 
ance. 


WATERING, 

A  hot-bed  should  be  watered  when  the  soil  becomes 
dry.  The  rule  is,  keep  the  soil  moist  but  not  wet.  Never 
water  when  the  sun  is  on  the  plants,  unless  you  water 
only  the  soil,  and  do  not  allow  a  drop  of  water  to 
touch  the  foliage  of  the  plants.  Morning  and  evening 
are  the  best  times  for  watering ;  but  watering  should 
never  be  done  on  a  cold,  freezing  day.  The  water  used 
should  be  of  a  moderate  temperature ;  cold,  icy  water 
injures  the  plants, 


316  HOT-BEDS. 

AlRING. 

Air  should  be  freely  given  when  the  weather  is  warm 
and  sunny ;  on  cold,  cloudy  days  the  sashes  should  be 
kept  closed  unless  it  is  necessary  to  get  rid  of  damp, 
which  may  be  effected  by  opening  the  frame  about  an 
inch  at  the  top.  If  the  weather  is  very  cold,  the  mats 
should  not  be  removed  from  the  sashes. 

The  best  way  to  ventilate  is  to  draw  the  sash  down 
from  the  top.  If,  however,  more  air  is  required,  prop 
up  the  sides ;  which,  by  securing  a  draught  through, 
will  effectually  carry  off  the  surplus  heat,  —  an  inch  will 
be  high  enough. 

As  the  season  advances,  and  the  days  become  warm 
and  sunny,  the  sashes  may  be  entirely  removed  after  the 
sun  becomes  high ;  replacing  them  at  night  and  in  stormy 
weather.  And  finally,  they  may  be  removed  altogether ; 
which  will  much  contribute  to  the  sturdiness  of  the 
plants. 

PROTECTION. 

If  we  do  not  start  our  hot-bed  until  the  fir**  of 
April,  we  shall  probably  need  no  protection  other  than 


HOT-BEDS.  317 

that  afforded  by  the  sash,  the  internal  heat  being  suf- 
ficient to  overcome  any  external  cold. 

If  we  start  our  hot-beds  in  winter,  we  shall  need  pro- 
tection. The  best  is  a  thick  straw  mat;  and,  if  very 
cold,  this  may  be  covered  by  a  board  shutter.  One  mat 
should  be  sufficiently  large  to  cover  two  sashes. 

These  mats,  if  properly  cared  for,  will  last  many 
years. 

We  have  not  treated  of  the  use  of  a  hot-bed  for 
striking  cuttings ;  it  is,  however,  most  serviceable  for 
this  purpose ;  and  with  a  small  hot  bed,  a  good  supply 
of  verbenas,  salvias,  heliotropes,  and  such  plants,  may  be 
obtained. 


27 


CHAPTER    XX. 


THE   GARDEN. 

Time  for  Gardening1.  —  April  Work.  —  Uncovering  Bulbs.  —  Preparation  of 
Border.  —  Dividing  Herbaceous  Plants.  —  Grass  Edgings.  —  Manuring. 
—  Weeding.  —  Watering.  —  Temperature  of  Water.  —  Staking.  —  Trim- 
ming. —  Soil.  —  Shade.  —  Situation. 


and  ice  at  last  have  disappeared, 
and  with  the  first  opening  of  spring 
there  is  usually  an  ardent  desire  devel- 
oped for  working  in  the  flower  garden ; 
the  spades,  rakes,  and  hoes  are  called 
into  requisition,  and  the  close,  heavy 
soil  receives  a  vigorous  upturning,  and  the  garden  is  put 
in  order. 

All  too  soon,  however ;  there  are  yet  to  be  cold  rains 
and,  perchance,  chilling  snows.  The  young  shoots  of 
the  herbaceous  plants  are  not  benefited  by  being  deprived 
of  the  protecting  dead  foliage  of  the  last  year ;  and  the 
tender  plants,  covered  during  the  winter,  are  not  im- 

(318) 


THE   GARDEN.         •  819 

proved  by  being  stripped  of  the  mats,  or  other  covering, 
in  season  to  receive  the  chill  of  a  snow  storm. 

The  tenth  of  April  is  full  early  enough  with  us  to 
uncover  trees  and  shrubs.  The  digging  of  the  garden 
beds  cannot  be  advantageously  undertaken  before  the 
first  of  May. 

The  only  April  gardening,  is  uncovering  the  beds  of 
snowdrops,  crocus,  and  other  early  bulbs.  The  time  for 
this  varies  from  the  first  to  the  last  of  the  month,  ac- 
cording to  the  exposure  of  the  bed.  The  rule  is,  when 
the  bulbs  shoot  up  through  the  manure  and  straw,  and 
begin  to  bloom,  then  uncover.  We  shall,  doubtless,  have 
frosty  nights  ;  but  unless  the  cold  should  be  very  severe, 
far  greater  than  the  average  after  the  first  of  April, 
the  young  shoots  and  flowers  will  not  be  injured. 

Let  us  suppose  the  warm,  sunny  days  of  May  have 
come,  the  bloodroot  and  violets  are  in  full  bloom,  and 
Nature  is  rapidly  assuming  her  spring  vestments.  Now 
is  the  time  to  dig  over  our  flower  border ;  we  shall  find 
the  soil,  instead  of  being  hard,  sodden,  and  cold,  as  it 
is  in  April,  soft,  porous,  and  crumbly,  breaking  readily 
under  the  blows  of  the  spade.  If  we  have  given  the 
border,  in  autumn,  a  good  top-dressing  of  manure,  as  is 


320  *         THE  GARDEN. 

always  a  good  plan,  we  have  now  no  manuring  to  do. 
First,  cut  off  all  dead  stems  of  herbaceous  plants,  and 
clear  up  the  border  ;  some  prefer  to  do  this  in  autumn ; 
this  is  only  advisable  where  the  flower  garden  is  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  house,  where  the  dead  stalks 
would  present  an  unsightly  appearance  during  the  win- 
ter. If  we  have  no  such  good  reason,  it  is  far  bet- 
ter to  leave  the  stalks  and  dead  leaves  on  the  plant, 
as  they  serve  as  a  great  protection  against  the  winter's 
cold  and  sun. 

The  border  being  cleared,  it  should  be  dug  over,  a 
foot  deep,  with  a  sharp  spade,  the  ground  levelled,  and 
the  earth  well  pulverized ;  care  must  be  taken  not  to 
injure  any  herbaceous  plants  ;  if  they  are  a  little  cov- 
ered it  will  do  no  harm,  as  their  tendency  is  to  grow 
out  of  the  ground  ;  and  if  too  high,  they  must  be  taken 
up  and  replanted.  Now  is  the  time  to  divide  them, 
which  may  be  done  with  the  spade  or  with  a  sharp 
knife. 

If  you  have  grass  edgings,  they  should  be  neatly  cut; 
this  may  be  done  with  the  spade,  or  with  one  of  the 
tools  made  expressly  for  this  purpose. 

If  you  have  not  manured  the  border  in  the    fall,  now 


THE   GARDEN.  321 

is  the  time  to  do  it.  A  flower  garden  should  have  a 
liberal  dressing  of  manure  once  a  year,  and  autumn  is 
better  than  spring. 

But  if  we  did  not  manure  in  autumn,  let  us  do  the 
next  best  thing,  and  now  give  a  heavy  top-dressing; 
cover  the  soil  four  inches  deep  with  the  best  well-rotted 
manure,  the  finer  the  better,  and  dig  it  in  immediately, 
and  prepare  our  border  as  above  directed. 

Let  a  day  or  two  elapse  before  we  begin  to  plant, 
for  the  soil  is  now  light,  and  will  settle  very  much. 

We  may  then  transplant,  sow  seeds,  set  bulbs,  or  turn 
out  bedding  plants ;  the  latter,  however,  should  not  be 
done  before  the  20th  of  May,  as  they  gain  but  little, 
and  may  be  nipped  by  a  late  frost. 

WEEDING. 

Our  spring  work  is  over ;  the  flowers  are  blooming 
gayly,  and  the  hot  June  suns  are  shining.  The  flowers 
grow  rapidly,  but  the  same  sun  is  bringing  up  a  growth 
of  weeds  ;  we  must  be  on  the  alert,  or  our  delicate  an- 
nuals will  be  smothered,  and  our  garden  soon  lose  its 
neat  and  attractive  appearance.  The  weeds  must  be 
pulled  up,  and  for  this  there  is  nothing  so  effective  as 


822  THE   GARDEN. 

the  thumb  and  finger.  Do  not  be  afraid  of  dirtying 
your  hands ;  this  weeding,  though  often  rather  back- 
breaking  and  tiresome,  and,  withal,  dirty  work,  is  very 
good  exercise ;  and  delicate  fingers  may  be  protected  by 
a  pair  of  gloves.  The  best  time  is  early  morning  of  a 
summer  day,  —  say,  from  half  past  four  to  seven,  on  a 
clear,  bright  morning ;  one  feels  invigorated  with  the 
fresh  early  air,  charmed  by  the  beauty  of  morning,  and 
really  pities  those  who  waste  these,  the  best  hours  of 
the  day,^  in  sleep.  It  is  not  well  to  weed  at  night,  or 
on  a  rainy  or  cloudy  day,  for  there  is  no  sun  to  kill  the 
weeds,  which  it  is  better  to  expose  to  the  sun,  that  they 
may  be  thoroughly  killed  ;  pull  them  in  -the  morning,  let 
them  lay  during  the  day,  and  gather  them  up  at  night. 

It  is  poor  gardening  to  cut  off  a  weed  just  below  the 
level  of  the  ground  with  a  scuffle  or  weeding  hoe,  for 
the  root  remains  alive,  gains  strength,  and  often  sends 
up  many  shoots  to  trouble  us  again.  In  large  gardens 
a  hoe  must  be  used,  for  hand  weeding  is  too  laborious ; 
but  if  we  have  time,  use  the  thumb  and  finger. 

During  the  summer,  the  earth  will  need  an  occasional 
stirring  with  the  rake  or  hoe,  especially  if  the  summer 
is  dry,  and  may  need  the  further  attention  of 


THE  GARDEN.  323 

WATERING. 

In  this,  there  are  many  mistakes  made  ;  often,  the  water 
is  poured  on  from  a  pail  or  from  the  nose  of  the  water- 
ing-pot. In  both  cases,  the  upper  soil  is  wet,  but  the 
greater  portion  of  the  water  runs  off,  and  fails  to  benefit 
the  garden.  Now,  our  rules  for  watering  are,  never 
water  unless  the  soil  absolutely  needs  it:  some  think 
watering  a  daily  duty,  to  be  attended  to  whether  the 
need  exists  or  not.  If  the  soil  is  close  or  clayey,  very 
seldom  will  water  be  required ;  if  sandy  or  loose,  more 
often,  but  each  locality  will  have  its  own  rules. 

Again,  never  dash  water  on  the  plants  or  ground ; 
give  it  slowly  and  gently  from  the  rose  of  a  watering- 
pot,  and  let  it  soak  into  the  earth. 

A  good  way,  if  a  plant  specially  needs  water,  is  to 
put  a  flower-pot  close  to  it,  press  the  pot  down  into  the 
ground  and  fill  it  with  water  ;  gently  and  slowly  the  water 
will  soak  through  the  hole  at  the  bottom  of  the  pot, 
and  the  roots  of  the  plant  receive  the  needed  moisture. 
In  time  of  drought,  a  syringing  is  of  much  benefit  to 
shrubs  and  plants. 

The   water   for   plants    should  not   be   very    cold ;    rain 


324  THE   GARDEN. 

water  is  the  best,  and  it  may  always  be  obtained  by 
having  a  hogshead  standing  in  some  place  out  of  sight, 
under  a  spout  connected  with  the  roof. 

There  are  always  the  little  cares  of  staking  plants, 
trimming  too  luxuriant  branches,  removing  dead  stalks, 
leaves,  and  flowers,  watching  lest  the  storms  beat  down 
the  tender  shoots  ;  looking  carefully  for  insects,  and  all 
the  little  routine  of  duties  which  makes  the  pleasurable 
care  of  the  flower  garden. 

A  well-kept  garden  is  a  constant  source  of  pleasure ; 
it  supplies  out-door  exercise  and  employment,  and  will 
always  furnish  a  bouquet  for  the  mantel  or  for  the  table. 

In  future  chapters  we  will  treat  of  what  to  plant ;  and 
when  speaking  of  each  plant,  any  peculiar  mode  of  cul- 
ture required,  will  be  given. 

The  soil  of  a  garden,  for  the  growth  of  common  spe- 
cies of  shrubs,  perennials,  and  annuals,  should  be  a  rich 
loam  :  if  any  plants  reqiiire  sand,  it  can  be  easily  sup- 
plied. Peat  is  but  little  used  in  general  gardening;  it 
is  required  only  for  rhododendrons,  azaleas,  and  in  the 
culture  of  some  of  our  fine  native  plants. 

A  garden    should   not   be    shaded   by  large   trees ;    but 


THE   GARDEN. 


325 


few  plants  flourish  under  shade  and  drip,  and  the 
strong  roots  of  trees  often  usurp  all  the  soil,  and  appro- 
priate to  themselves  all  the  best  of  the  garden. 

A  garden  should  be  sunny;  soil,  rich  black  loam;  and 
sheltered  from  the  wind. 


CHAPTER    XXI. 


SMALL   TREES   AND   SHRUBS. 


Planting.  —  General  Treatment. — Watering-.  — I'nJsy^iua.  — June  Berry.— 
Acacia.  —  Flowering  Almond. —  Catalpa.  —  Flowering1  Dogwood.  —  Kol- 
reutcria.  —  Lilacs.  —  Syringa.  —  Laburnum.  —  Stuartia.  —  Pea  Tree.  — 
Pseonias.  —  Magnolias.  —  Azalea.  —  Spice  Bush,  —  Purple  Berberry.  — 
Fringe  Tree.— Smoke  Tree.  —  Bladder  Senna. —  Corehorus.  —  Dwarf 
Horse  Chestnut.  —  Tartarian  Honeysuckle.  —  Spireas. —  Silver  Bell.  — 
Sorrel  Tree.  —  Deutzia.  —  Daphne  Mezereon.  —  Japan  Quince.  —  Snow- 
ball.—Cranberry  Tree.  — Wcigela.  — Virginia  Silk.  —  Dutchman's  Pipe. 
—  Virginia  Creeper.  —  Honeysuckles.  —  Wistaria.  —  Climbing  Roses.  — 
June  Roses.  —  Moss  Roses.  —  Perpetual  Roses.  —  Culture.  —  Rhododen- 
drons.—  List  of  Hardy.  —  Mountain  Laurel.  —  Andromeda.  —  Ledum,  or 
Labrador  Tea. 


SMALL   TREES   AND   SHRUBS. 


327 


|O  GARDEN  is  complete  without  a 
judicious  selection  of  small  trees  and 
shrubs,  and  the  many  splendid  acquisi- 
tions of  the  last  few  years  have  made 
them  take  a  place  among  the  most 
desirable  objects  of  floral  decoration. 
They  occupy  but  little  space,  require 
but  little  care,  and  give  a  large  return 
of  flowers  and  foliage.  Their  culture 
is  very  simple.  They  will  thrive  in 
any  good  garden  soil. 

In  planting,  dig  a  hole  about  three  feet  in  diameter, 
unless  the  shrub  is  very  small,  when  two  feet  will  do ;  fill 
in  with  rich  loam,  and  set  the  tree  or  shrub  carefully  in  the 
centre,  treading  the  soil  well  around  it,  so  it  may  be  firmly 
established.  There  is  nothing  gained  by  digging  a  small 
hole,  and  crowding  in  the  roots  of  the  plant ;  you  may  save 
in  labor,  but  you  dearly  pay  for  it,  year  after  year,  in  a 
sickly  plant  and  starveling  flowers.  You  must  give  the 
roots  generous  treatment  if  you  wish  the  plant  to  afford 
a  wealth  of  foliage  and  flower. 

If  the  shrub  droops  from  drought,  the  best  way  to 
revive  it  is  by  syringing  the  foliage  in  the  evening,  and 


328  SMALL   TREES   AND   SHRUBS. 

by  giving  water  at  the  root  from  a  flower-pot,  as  de- 
scribed in  the  last  chapter ;  or,  if  a  pot  of  sufficient  size 
cannot  be  obtained,  an  old  butter  firkin,  with  an  auger 
hole  in  the  bottom,  will  answer  admirably. 

Our  autumn  treatment  is,  only  to  give  a  top-dress- 
ing of  manure,  to  be  dug  in  lightly  with  a  fork  (a  spade 
injures  the  roots)  around  the  plant  in  early  spring,  when 
the  border  is  dug  over. 

The  only  pruning  necessary  is  to  cut  out  any  too  luxu- 
riant or  unsightly  branches,  which  should  be  done  with 
a  sharp  pruning-knife. 

If  the  plants  are  somewhat  tender  or  weak,  it  may  be 
well  to  protect  them  against  the  winter's  cold  by  tying 
them  up  in  straw,  or,  still  better,  cedar  boughs,  which  may 
be  prettily  trimmed  off,  so  that  all  winter  the  plants 
look  like  trimmed  evergreens.  The  time  for  doing  this  is 
about  the  middle  of  November,  and  the  covering  should  be 
removed  about  the  first  week  in  April. 

Protection  from  the  sun  may  also  be  given  by  setting 
small  evergreen  trees  in  the  ground  around  any  plant  re- 
quiring such  protection.  The  trunk  of  the  .tree  may  be 
sharpened  and  thrust  into  the  ground ;  it  will  freeze  in, 
and  stand  firmly  all  winter. 


SMALL   TREES   AND    SHRUBS.  329 

This  chapter  can  be  but  a  list  of  the  best  trees  and 
shrubs,  with  brief  descriptions  of  each,  from  which  the 
reader  can  select  those  which  best  suit  his  taste.  All 
are  sufficiently  hardy  to  stand  our  ordinary  winters  without 
protection.  We  have  not  given  a  list  of  large  trees, 
gladly  as  we  would  have  done  so,  because  a  chapter  on 
trees  would  treat  more  of  the  woodland  and  park  than 
of  the  garden ;  but  we  have  mentioned  many  small 
trees,  which  are  exceedingly  ornamental,  and  may  be 
grown  in  a  limited  space. 

The  June  Berry,  or  Shad  Bush  (Amelanchier  botryapium), 
is  a  pretty  native  tree,  rarely  attaining  a  greater  height 
than  twelve  feet,  and  in  earliest  spring  loaded  with  \vhite 
blossoms,  succeeded  later  by  clusters  of  purplish  black 
berries. 

Both  in  leaf  and  flower  it  is  very  showy,  and  is  one 
of  the  few  natives  which  seems  to  be  appreciated.  The 
flowers  come  out  before  the  leaves. 

The  Flowering  Acacia  (A.  viscosa)  is  a  small  tree,  cov- 
ered with  a  profusion  of  pea-shaped  pinkish  white  flow- 
ers, on  short,  close  racemes  in  June.  It  has  the  merit 
of  growing  any  where,  and  always  flowering  well.  Its 
foliage  is  neat,  locust-like,  and  pretty. 
28* 


330          SMALL  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

Another  little  gem,  of  the  same  family,  so  common 
that  its  beauty  is  not  appreciated,  is  the  Rose  Acacia 
(A.  hispida).  Its  clustered  bunches  of  pink  pea-shaped 
flowers  are  familiar  to  all.  If  trained  to  a  single  stem, 
it  makes  a  fine  plant ;  its  fault  is,  a  tendency  to  throw 
up  suckers,  which  renders  it  a  troublesome  plant  in  a  small 
garden.  It. is,  however,  a  favorite  of  ours,  and  we  will- 
ingly bear  its  fault  to  enjoy  its  beauty.  Both  these 
species  will  bear  neglect  and  hard  treatment ;  indeed, 
they  will  grow  in  spite  of  you. 

A  well-known  and  always  popular  shrub  is  the  little 
dwarf-flowering  Almond  (Amyydalus  pumila  flpV),  found 
every  where,  and  yet,  as  is  usually  the  case  with  our 
best  and  most  common  blessings,  not  appreciated.  A 
little  care  would  improve  this  plant  wonderfully.  It 
flowers  on  the  young  wood,  therefore  the  more  shoots 
we  can  get  in  the  summer  the  more  flower  the  next 
spring.  If,  therefore,  your  plant  is  thrifty  and  well-estab- 
lished, as  soon  as  it  is  out  of  bloom  cut  it  down  to 
the  ground ;  it  may  be  hard  to  do  it,  but  patience  a  while, 
and  before  autumn  you  will  have  a  fine  growth  of 
young  wood,  which  the  next  spring  will  give  you  profuse 
bloom. 


SMALL  TREES  AND  SHRUBS.          331 

A  fine  tree,  and  beautiful,  both  in  foliage  and  flower, 
blooming  withal  late  in  the  season,  is  the  Catalpa 
(G.  syringafolia).  It  is,  however,  too  large  for  a  small 
garden,  but  yet  is  so  beautiful,  a  space  should  be  made 
for  it  near  the  house.  Flowers  in  July,  in  large  ter- 
minal bunches  on  the  ends  of  the  branches ;  white, 
marked  with  purple  and  yellow,  and  deliciously  fragrant. 

As  a  companion  to  the  June  Berry,  we  may  have 
our  flowering  Dogwood  (Gornus  florida],  a  beautiful  native 
tree,  whose  flowers  are  surrounded  by  very  conspicuous 
white  floral  leaves,  which  render  the  plant  very  attrac- 
tive, and  which  are  succeeded  in  autumn  by  red  ber- 
ries. The  foliage  also  turns  blood  red  with  the  autumn 
frosts.  It  is  a  small  tree,  occupies  but  little  space, 
flowers  when  quite  young,  and  should  be  more  gener- 
ally cultivated. 

Kolreuteria  Paniculata  is  a  low  tree,  producing  in  August 
bunches  of  bright  yellow  flowers.  It  is  but  little  known, 
however,  or  it  would  be  more  commonly  grown.  The 
foliage  is  handsome,  and  the  flowers  come  out  at  a 
season  when  few  trees  are  in  bloom.  It  needs  a  rich 
soil,  and  a  sunny  situation. 

The  Lilacs  (Syringa),  of  which  there  are  some   twenty 


832  SMALL  TREES   AND  SHRUBS. 

varieties,  and  the  Syringas  (Philadelphus),  are  too  well 
known  to  need  description;  they  are  all  pretty,  and 
flourish  in  any  garden  soil.  The  Persian  Lilacs  are  most 
suitable  for  a  small  garden.  All  these  plants  will  bear 
any  exposure  and  thrive,  where  other  shrubs  would 
dwindle  and  die. 

The  English  and  Scotch  Laburnum  (Cytisus)  are 
somewhat  tender  in  the  vicinity  of  Boston;  they  will, 
however,  flower  splendidly  in  a  somewhat  sheltered 
location;  their  golden  chain  of  blossoms  is  very  beau- 
tiful. 

A  few  years  since,  one  of  the  natives  of  the  mountains 
of  the  Middle  and  Southern  States  was  introduced  to  us  by 
Messrs.  Parsons.  We  mean  that  lovely  shrub,  Stuartia 
Pentagynia,  which  has  safely  stood  our  winters,  and 
delights  us  each  August  by  a  profusion  of  large,  camellia- 
like  flowers,  white,  with  purple  centre. 

Plant  this  shrub,  however  small  the  garden ;  you 
will  never  repent  it,  for  it  will  repay  you  a  thousand 
fold. 

For  a  pretty,  hardy  tree,  eminent  for  delicate  foliage 
and  pretty  blossoms,  give  us  the  Siberian  Pea  Tree  (Cara- 
gana  arborescens).  It  gives  a  profusion  of  pea-shaped 


SMALL  TREES  AND  SHRUBS.         333 

yellow  flowers  in  May,  and  its  foliage  has  a  dark,  healthy 
green  hue  until  late  into  the  fall.  It  is  small,  occupying 
hut  little  space.  There  are  other  species ;  all  are  pretty, 
hut  many  require  to  he  grafted  on  a  tall  stock  to  show 
to  advantage,  as  they  are  low,  trailing  shruhs. 

We  must  also  have  Tree  Pseonies;  there  are  many 
varieties,  hut,  after  the  poppy-flowered  and  the  double 
hlush,  they  differ  but  little.  They  "bloom  in  May,  and 
are  always  ornamental;  a  little  protection  in  winter  is 
advisable,  though  not  necessary.  Elizabeth  and  Hoi 
Leopold  are  magnificent  varieties. 

Magnolias  are  always  favorites,  and  could  we  have  but 
one  species  of  flowering  tree,  this  would  be  our  choice. 

M.  conspicua  is  the  Yulan  Tree,  perfectly  hardy,  bloom- 
ing profusely  about  the  last  of  April,  producing  large 
white  flowers.  M.  Soidangiana  is  about  a  week  later ; 
flowers,  rosy  purple. 

There  are  many  hybrids  from  these  two ;  all  are 
worthy  a  place  in  the  garden. 

M.  tripetala,  the  Umbrella  Tree,  is  too  large  for  small 
gardens,  but  where  there  is  space,  should  be  exten- 
sively planted  ;  flowers  large  white,  and  very  fragrant 
in  June. 


334          SMALL  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

M.  glauca  is  our  own  little  swamp  Magnolia,  but  it  does 
poorly  in  cultivation;  a  damp  soil,  with  deep  loam,  suits 
it  best ;  it  is  an  evergreen. 

M.  Tlwmpsonicma,  is  a  fine  hybrid  between  the  last  two 
mentioned,  and  hardy. 

M.  macrophylla  produces  enormous  leaves  and  flowers ; 
it  needs  liberal  culture,  but  is  perfectly  hardy ;  the 
flowers  are  white,  very  fragrant,  produced  in  July. 

M.  purpurea  or  obovata  is  not  hardy,  yet  if  well  pro- 
tected will  succeed. 

Azalea  Nudiflora  and  Viscosa  are  two  fine  native  species, 
the  former  with  pink  flowers  in  May,  the  latter  with 
white  flowers  in  July.  Both  succeed  well  in  any  gar- 
den soil. 

The  Spice  Bush  (Calycantlms),  in  its  many  species,  is 
very  pretty,  and  a  general  favorite.  The  flowers  have  but 
little  beauty,  being  dull  colored,  yet  their  fragrance  recom- 
mends them  to  all.  All  the  species  have  ornamental 
foliage,  and  being  low  growers,  are  suitable  for  small 
gardens.  The  whole  plant  is  highly  aromatic. 

The  foliage  of  the  purple-leafed  Berberry  (Herberts 
purpurea)  is  attractive  and  ornamental  in  the  garden.  It  is 
a  neat-growing  bush,  with  yellow  flowers  and  red  berries. 


SMALL  TREES  AND  SHRUBS.          335 

A  favorite  with  all  is  the  Fringe  Tree  (Chionanthus 
Virginiacus),  producing  long  fringes  of  white  flowers  in 
June ;  it  delights  in  a  rich,  loamy,  moist  soil. 

The  "  purple  fringe  "  or  Smoke  Tree  (Ehus  cotinus)  is 
too  well  known  to  need  description ;  it  is  very  ornamental 
from  midsummer  to  autumn,  and  does  well  with  but  little 
care. 

Colutea  Arborescens  is  the  Bladder  Senna,  and  is  de- 
serving a  place  in  the  garden,  because  it  is  always  in 
bloom,  and  is  withal  very  ornamental  with  its  yellow 
flowers. 

We  cannot  say  the  Altheas  (Hibiscus  Syriacus)  are 
favorites  of  ours ;  their  recommendation  is,  the  late  season 
at  which  they  bloom.  The  flowers  are  produced  in  August, 
and  are  of  all  shades  between  red,  purple,  and  white,  and 
double  and  single. 

An  old  favorite  is  the  Corchorus  (Kerria  japonica), 
always  esteemed  for  its  bright  orange  globular  flowers,  and 
conspicuous  for  its  light,  glossy,  green  wood.  The  shoots 
are,  however,  liable  to  be  winter-killed,  and  should  in 
autumn  be  laid  down  and  covered  with  earth. 

There  is  a  dwarf-flowering  Horse-chestnut  (Pavia 
Macrostacluja)  which  makes  a  pretty  ornament  for  a 


336  SMALL   TREES   AND   SHRUBS, 

lawn ;  the  flowers  are  white,  produced  on  long  spikes. 
The  plant  produces  suckers  so  freely  it  sometimes  becomes 
troublesome. 

All  the  Tartarian  Honeysuckles  are  to  be  recommended 
as  garden  shrubs,  being  equally  ornamental^  whether  in 
flower  or  fruit. 

Of  the  Spireas,  whose  "name. is  legion,"  the  best  for 
general  cultivation  are, — 

S.  Opulifolia.    Flowers  white  in  June. 

S.  Bella.    Flowers  pink  in  June. 

S.  Prunifolia.    Flowers  white  in  May. 

S.  Reevesii  JVpV.    Flowers  white  in  May  and  June. 

S.  Callosa.    Flowers  red  and  pink  all  the  season. 

The  Snow  Bell,  or  Silver  Bell  Trees  (Halesia  diptera 
and  tetraptera),  are  always  admired ;  the  former  is  some- 
what tender  in  New  England,  however.  They  are  small 
trees,  loaded  in  June  with  white,  bell-shaped  blossoms. 

One  of  our  most  beautiful  small  trees  is  the  Sorrel 
Tree  (Andromeda  arborea).  From  July  to  September  it  is 
loaded  with  bloom,  and  a  more  attractive  object  cannot  be 
found.  It  is  suited  to  a  very  small  garden. 

Who  has  not  admired  the  Deutzia  (D.  scahra],  as  hardy 
us  a  Syringa,  and  far  more  beautiful,  —  stretching  out  to 


SMALL  TREES  AND  SHRUBS.          337 

us    its  branches,  loaded   with  white  blossoms ;    yet,   alas, 
they  have  no  perfume ! 

In  the  earliest  days  of  spring,  would  we  have  a  shrub 
in  flower  in  the  garden,  we  must  have  planted  the  white 
and  purple  Daphne  Mezereon,  and  long  before  winter  has 
departed,  these  little  shrubs  will  be  loaded  with  bloom. 

Before  they  have  faded,  we  may  gather  a  rich,  golden 
bouquet  from  Forsythia  Viridissima,  and  wreathe  among 
them  the  flame-colored  buds  of  the  Japan  Quince  (Pyrus 
Japonica). 

There  is  also  a  white,  a  red,  a  double,  and  an  orange 
variety  of  this  last-mentioned  flower,  which  to  us  is  one  of 
the  early  glories  of  spring. 

Our  list  of  shrubs  would  be  incomplete  did  we  omit  the 
Snowball  ( Viburnum  opulus),  and  the  Cranberry  Tree 
(V.  oxy coccus),  both  of  which  are  ornamental  in  a  high 
degree.  These  plantc  are  botanically  identical. 

One  of  our  modern  introductions,  the  pretty  Weigela 
Rosea,  is  already  common  in  the  garden,  and  perhaps  there 
is  no  shrub  a  more  universal  favorite,  certainly  none  that 
will  give  a  greater  profusion  of  bloom. 

Our  garden  is,  however,  in  need  of  some  hardy  climbing 
plants ;  we  therefore  give  a  list  of  fine  species :  — 
29 


338          SMALL  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

Periploca  Graeca  (Virginian  silk),  a  rapid  grower,  with 
curious  brown  flowers. 

Trumpet  Flower  (Bignonia  radicans),  producing  dull, 
crimson  flowers  in  August. 

Dutchman's  Pipe  (Aristolochia  siplio\  a  fine  climber, 
with  large  leaves  and  curious  flowers. 

Virginia  Creeper  (Ampelopsis  Virginica) ;  very  useful 
for  covering  walls  and  fences.  A  rapid  grower,  and  very 
beautiful  in  autumn. 

The  different  species  of  Clematis  are  very  ornamental. 
C.  flammula,  Viticella,  Virginica,  and  Azurea  grandiflora, 
are  the  best. 

Honeysuckles  are  favorites  with  all,  and  our  selec- 
tion from  the  many  varieties  would  be  Scarlet  and  Yel- 
low Trumpet  (Lonicera  Periclymenum  and  aurea),  Dutch 
Monthly  (Belgica),  Japan  Twining  (Japonica). 

And,  lastly,  the  Chinese  and  our  native  Wistaria  (W. 
sinensis  and  frutescens),  which  are  always  favorites  from 
their  clusters  of  purple  flowers. 

We  must  have  some  climbing  roses.  Let  us,  then, 
choose  the  pink  and  red  Bousault  for  early  bloom,  and 
from  the  prairies,  Queen  of  the  Prairie,  Baltimore  Belle, 
Superba,  Milledgeville,  and  Perpetual  Pink.  If  we  can 


SMALL   TREES    AND   SHRUBS. 


339 


nave  but  one  climbing  rose,  let  it  be  the  Baltimore  Belle. 
The  Greville  Rose  is  a  fine,  hardy  species. 
Let  us  choose  — 


Midame  Plantier.    White. 
Victor  Hugo.    Lilac. 
George  IV.    Crimson. 
Brennus.    Crimson. 
Provence.    Rose. 


For  Hardy  June  Roses. 

Centifolia  Cristata.    Blush. 
Madame  Hardy.    White. 
Globe   White.    White. 
Four  Seasons.    Blush. 
Unique.    White. 


For  Moss  Roses. 


Common  Blush.    Rose. 
Cristata.    Rose. 
Glory  of  Moss.    Rose. 
Luxembourg.    Crimson. 


For  Hybrid 


Auguste  Mie.    Rosy  pink. 

Baronne  Prevost.    Rose  fine. 

Geant  des  Batailles.    Crimson. 

Edtvard  Jesse.     Lilac  Rose. 

L' Enfant  du  Mont  Carmel.  Pur- 
plish red. 

General  Jacqueminot.  Splendid 
crimson. 

Lion  des  Combats.     Scarlet. 

Jules  Margottin.     Carmine. 

Cnmpte  de  BroUnski.     Crimson. 

Duchess  of  Sutherland.     Rose. 

Caroline  de  Sansal.    Flesh  color. 

Baronne  Hrtlez.     Light  crimson. 


Princess  Adelaide.    Red. 
White  Bath.    White. 
Multiflora.    Rose. 
Etna.    Crimson. 

Perpetual. 

William  Jesse.    Crimson. 
Sydonie.     Light  pink. 
Rivers.    Rosy  crimson. 
Portland  Blanche.    White. 
Marquise  Bocella.    Rosy  blush. 
Madame  Laffay.    Rosy  crimson. 
Mrs.  Rivers.    Flesh  color. 
General  Cavaignac.     Light    rosy 

crimson. 

Pius  IX.    Purplish  red. 
Mrs.  Elliott.    Rosy  purple. 
La  Heine.     Rose. 
Lady  Alice  Peel.    Rosy  carmine. 


340          SMALL  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

The  treatment  of  roses  in  the  garden  is  very  simple. 
They  need  a  deep,  rich,  well-manured  soil,  rather  moist, 
but  never  wet. 

In  early  spring  they  should  be  cut  down  to  a  few  eyes ; 
and,  if  autumn  bloom  is  desired,  pruned  again  in  July. 
When  the  frosty  nights  come,  and  just  before  the  ground 
freezes,  lay  down  the  shoots,  and  cover  them  several  inches 
deep ;  or,  in.  the  case  of  June  roses,  lay  them  down  and 
cover  them  with  evergreen  boughs.  Take  them  up  about 
the  middle  of  April. 

Our  lists  of  Bourbon  and  China  Roses  have  been  given 
In  a  previous  chapter,  and  we  have  only  to  add  to  these  a 
plant  of  the  favorite  Yellow  Harrison  and  the  Persian  Yel- 
low, and  a  few  plants  of  the  little  early-blooming  Scotch 
roses,  to  have  our  rosery  well  stocked. 

Before  closing  this  chapter,  we  wish  to  say  a  few 
words  about  a  much  neglected  class  of  plants,  the  so- 
called  American  plants ;  i.  e.,  Rhododendrons,  Kalmias, 
and  Leduin. 

The  proper  soil  is  peat,  leaf  mould,  and  sand,  in  propor- 
tions of  one  half  part  of  the  latter  to  two  of  the  former. 

The  plants  should  be  planted  in  a  bed  specially  prepared, 
where  they  can  be  sheltered  from  the  winter's  sun. 


SMALL  TREES  AND  SHRUBS.          341 

We  do  not  propose  to  write  a  treatise  on  their  culture, 
but  merely  saying  there  can  be  nothing  more  ornamental 
than  a  collection  of  these  plants,  to  give  the  following  list 
of  varieties  which  have  been  proved  hardy  in  the  vicinity 
of  Boston : — 

Rhododendron  Atrosanguineum.  Intense  blood  red,  fine  foliage ;  one 
of  the  hardiest  and  best. 

R.  Archimedes.    Bright  rose,  light  centre. 

jR.  Barclay anum.  A  fine,  light  blooming  kind;  good  foliage;  large 
trusses,  of  a  deep  rose  color. 

R.  Blandyanum.    Deep  crimson;  fine. 

.R.  Chancellor.    Finely  spotted  purplish  lilac ;  good. 

R.  Brayanum.  Rosy  scarlet,  lighter  centre;  fine  foliage;  a  very 
-fine  variety. 

R.  Correggio.    Dark  crimson ;  fine. 

R.  Delicatissimum.     White,  delicately  edged  with  pink. 

jR.  Due  de  Brabant.    Yellowish  white,  spotted  with  red,  semi-double. 

R.  Everestianum.    Rosy  lilac,  spotted  and  fringed;  a  fine  kind. 

R.  Leopardii.    Rosy  lilac,  intensely  spotted. 

R.  Giganteum.    Bright  rose,  large  truss ;  foliage  good. 

R.  Nero.    Fine  dark  rosy  purple,  spotted;  fine  truss. 

R.  Standard  of  Flanders. 

R.  Roseum  Elegans.    Fine  rose. 

R.  Roseum  Pictum.     Rose,  with  yellow  eye. 

R.  Granditforum,  >,. 

>  Late  blooming ;  fine  rose-colored ;  good  trusses. 
R.  Superbum,         > 

There    are    many   hardy   Rhododendrons,    seedlings    of 
E.    Catawliense,  which  are,   perhaps,    better    adapted  for 
29* 


342         SMALL  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

general    planting    than     those     above     mentioned.      We 
describe  a  few  kinds  :  — 

-R.  Catawbiense  Album.    Fine  white. 

R.  Catawbiense  Album  Elegans.  White,  with  green  spots ;  the  best 
of  the  hardy  light  varieties. 

R.  Grandifiorum.    Blush,  changing  to  white. 

R.  Acubcefoliam.    Light  lilac. 

R.  Azureum.    Blush  lilac,  distinct  and  fine. 

R.  Bicolor.    Rose ;  distinct  white  spot  on  upper  petals. 

R.  Candidis'simum.    Pure  white. 

R.  Ccelestinum.    Fine  blush,  yellow  eye. 

R.  Coerulescens.    Lilac  pink. 

jR.  Delicatissimum.    Delicate  blush,  changing  to  white. 

R.  Gloriosum.    Large  blush. 

R.  Perspicuum.    Clear  blush. 

JR.  Purpureum  Elegans  and  Grandifiorum.  Fine  trusses ;  clear,  fine 
purple. 

R.  Grandiflorum  (Waterers).    Rose ;  fine  truss. 

R.  Roseum  Splendens.    Fine  rose. 

R.  Blandum.    Pale  blush,  fine  foliage. 

R.  Guttatum.    Clear  white,  distinctly  spotted. 

R.  Ryacinthiflorum.    Very  double  and  distinct. 

R.  Macranthum.     Blush  white,  tinged  with  pink. 

R.  Multimaculum.     White,  finely  spotted  with  red. 

R.  Nivaticum.    Pure  white,  yellow  eye. 

R.  Pictum.    White ;  intense  spot  on  upper  petals. 

All  the  above  are  hardy  enough  to  withstand  a  Canadian 
winter.  Rhododendron  Ponticum,  and  its  varieties,  are  not 
hardy  with  us.  Kalmia  Latifolia,  the  fine  mountain  laurel, 


SMALL   TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  343 

is  worthy  a  place  in  every  garden.  There  are  also  varieties 
of  the  common  Kalmia  Angustifolia,  or  Lambkill,  which 
are  very  pretty.  K.  Angustifolia  carnea,  pumila,  and  rubra, 
our  swamp  Kalmia,  K.  glauca  and  its  varieties,  stricta,  and 
superba,  are  very  ornamental.  Kalmia  Myrtifolia  is  a  fine- 
leaved  variety.  All  these  are  perfectly  hardy. 

The  Andromedas  are  a  very  pretty  tribe  of  plants ;  of 
these,  the  following  are  hardy :  A.  Catesbsei,  Floribunda, 
Mariana,  Polifolia,  and  its  varieties. 

The  Ledum  is  a  very  pretty  evergreen,  and  all  its  species 
are  hardy.  L.  angustifolium,  buxifolium,  procumbens,  in- 
termedium, latifolium,palustre,  and  thymifolium. 

These  are  all  low-growing  evergreens,  and  very  pretty 
miniature  plants.  In  June  they  are  covered  with  small 
white  blossoms. 

We  have  been  thus  diffuse  on  this  subject,  because  it  is 
one  on  which  there  is  general  ignorance ;  and  large  sums 
are  annually  spent  in  importing  plants  which  never  survive 
the  first  winter.  All  we  have  mentioned  are  perfectly 
hardy,  and  well  adapted  to  our  New  England  climate. 


CHAPTER    XXII. 

HARDY  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS. 

General  Treatment.  —  Transplanting.  —  Propagation.—  Dielytra.  —  Lily  of 
the  Valley. —T  Adam' s  Needle.  —  Larkspur.  —  Globe  Flower.  —  Phlox.  — 
List  of  Choice  Varieties.  —  Canterbury  Bell.  —  Hepatica.  —  Pink.—  Frax- 
inella.  —  Cowslip.  —  Foxglove.  —  Day  Lily.  —  Iris.  —  Everlasting  Pea.  — 
Lupin.  —  Ragged  Robin.  —  Spirea.  —  Veronica.  —  Bloodroot.  —  List  of 
fine  Species. 

N   THIS    connection,    >ve  treat  of  all 
hardy     biennials      and      perennials, 
meaning  plants  which  spring  up  for 
two  or  more  years,  blooming  during 
the  summer  from  yearly  stems,  which 
die  down  each  autumn,  the  root,  in 
the    case    of    biennials,    dying   after 
blooming,   or,   as   with  most  peren- 
nials, living  many  years,  and  springing  up  every  season. 
These   plants   are   to   be   especially  relied  upon  for  the 
flower  garden,  because  they  require  but  little  care  ;  in  fact, 
they  care  for  themselves.     Give  them  the  common  garden 

(344) 


HARDY    HERBACEOUS    PLANTS.  345 

soil,  dig  round  them,  to  loosen  the  earth3  each  spring,  and 
they  will  bloom. 

Yet  a  little  care  is  well  repaid  by  increased  luxuriance  of 
foliage  and  beauty  of  flower.  •  In  spring  each  clump  should 
be  examined,  to  see  it  is  not  too  high  out  of  the  earth  ; 
there  is  a  tendency  with  most  of  these  plants  to  grow  out 
of  the  ground.  When  this  is  found  to  be  the  case,  take  up 
the  plant  and  re-set  it. 

Transplanting  should  always  be  done  in  the  spring  ;  not 
but  what  these  plants  will  live  if  removed  in  the  autumn, 
but  they  will  succeed  so  much  better  by  spring  planting, 
that  that  season  is  always  to  be  chosen  if  possible. 

During  the  summer,  if  very  large  and  fine  bloom  is  de- 
sired, prune  out  all  the  weak  stems. 

In  the  autumn  cover  the  crowns  of  the  plants  with  coarse 
manure  or  litter ;  if  the  plant  is  an  evergreen,  protect  it 
with  pine  boughs  from  the  winter's  sun. 

In  spring,  dig  a  few  spades  full  of  manure  around  each 
plant. 

These  plants  are  propagated  by  division  of  the  root, 
which  should  be  performed  in  early  spring,  just  as  the 
plants  start  into  growth,  or  in  the  latter  part  of  summer, 
when  they  have  done  flowering ;  this  latter  treatment  is 


346  HARDY    HERBACEOUS   PLANTS. 

especially  adapted  for  the  Phlox.  Every  eye,  with  a  bit  of 
root,  will  make  a  plant.  They  also  produce  seed  freely, 
and  seedlings  usually  bloom  the  second  year. 

We  give  a  list  of  species,  with  short  descriptions,  men- 
tioning the  plants  in  the  order  in  which  they  are  adapted  to 
general  culture,  considering  them  as  flowering  plants. 

DIELYTRA  SPECTABILIS.  This  beautiful  plant  is  one  of 
the  most  elegant  in  cultivation,  whether  we  consider  its 
foliage  or  flowers.  It  grows  freely,  flowers  well,  and  is 
subject  to  no  insects  or  disease ;  and  if,  after  the  flowers 
have  faded  in  the  spring,  the  stalks  are  cut  down,  it  will 
throw  up  a  second  set  and  bloom  again.  Perennial.  Flow- 
ers, rose  and  white  in  May. 

LILY  OF  THE  VALLEY  (Convallaria  Majalis).  This  lovely 
flower  grows  alike  for  the  rich  and ,  poor.  It  does  well  in 
any  rich,  loamy  soil,  and  thrives  in  shade  or  sun.  It  pro- 
duces its  fragrant  white  flowers  in  May,  which  are  suc- 
ceeded by  red  berries  in  September.  Perennial. 

ADAM'S  NEEDLE  (Yucca  Filamentosa).  An  evergreen 
plant,  with  strong  roots  and  sharp  leaves,  of  a  very  tropical 
aspect.  In  June  it  throws  up  a  tall  spike  of  white  flowers. 
During  the  winter,  cover  the  plants  with  pine  boughs.  They 
need  a  rich  soil,  and  it  is  a  good  plan  to  dig,  every  fall, 


HARDY   HERBACEOUS   PLANTS.  347 

well-rotted  manure  into  the  bed.  Perennial.  One  of  the 
conspicuous  features  near  our  house  is  a  large  circular  bed 
of  these  plants. 

DELPHINIUM  HENDERSONII  and  FORMOSUM.  Two  beau- 
tiful varieties  of  Larkspur.  Flowers  deep  blue,  with  white 
centre.  Produced  in  profusion  from  July  to  November. 
Perennial. 

TROLLIUS  EUROPJETJS  (Globe  Flower).  A  lovely  little 
plant.  A  mass  of  light  yellow  globe  flowers  in  May  and 
June.  This  is  a  favorite  flower  with  us.  Perennial.  T. 
Asiaticus  has  orange  flowers. 

PHLOX.  This  is  a  large  family,  containing  many  species 
and  fine  varieties.  We  give  a  list  of  desirable  varieties  of 
each  of  the  early  summer  and  autumn  kinds,  only  premising 
that  we  mention  but  a  few,  while  there  are  hundreds  worthy 
of  cultivation. 

Early  Spring  Flowering. 

Phlox  Subulata  (Moss  Pink.)    Pink,  white,  purple,  and  eyed  varieties. 
P.  Divaricata.    Light  and  dark  purple. 
P.  Stonolifera.    Deep  red. 
P.Nivalis.    White. 

Summer  Flowering. 

P.  Maculata.    lied.  P.  Countess    of  Home.     White, 

P.  Suavolens.    White,  crimson  eye. 


348  HARDY   HERBACEOUS   PLANTS. 

P.  Louis  Van  Houtte.     Striped.  P.  Mad.  Carl  Wagner.     Whitish 

P.  Bcppo.    Purple  or  crimson.  rose,  rosy  eye. 

P.  Speculum.    White,  red  eye.  P.  Henri  Lierval.    Purplish  crira- 

P.  Roi      de      Leopold.      White,  son. 

striped  with  purple.  P.  Rival.    White. 

Late  Flowering. 

P.  Decora.    White,  red  eye.  P.  Madame    Basseville.       Rosy 
P.  Souvenir  de  la  Mer.      White,  white,  red  eye. 

violet  centre  P.  Madame  Le  Cerf.    Pure  white. 

P.  Le  Croix  de  St.  Louis.    Rose  P.  Ocidata.    Lilac,  white  centre. 

and  white.  P.  Atropurpurea.    Dark  crimson. 

P.  Osiris.     White,  red  eye.  P.  Camarina.     White,  red  eye. 

P.  Hersine.    Purple  and  white.  P.  Mr.  Regel.  Violet,  purple,  and 
P.  Dianthiflora.    Rose  and  white.  crimson. 

All  these  species  of  Phlox  are  perennials. 

Campanula  Medium  (Canterbury  Bells).  An  old-fashioned,  but  very 
pretty  flower.  It  is,  however,  a  biennial ;  so  we  must  sow  seed  every 
year  to  keep  up  a  stock.  There  are  white,  purple,  single  and  double 
varieties.  Blooms  in  June. 

C.  Persicafolia.  Our  common  garden  species  ;  flower,  blue,  white  ; 
single  and  double ;  perennial,  blooming  in  June  and  July.  There  are 
many  other  species,  all  fine. 

Hepatica  Triloba.  This  little  spring  flower  we  have  previously  de- 
scribed. It  is  the  first  flower  to  open  after  the  snowdrop  and  crocus, 
usually  expanding  about  the  fifth  of  April.  The  leaves  are  evergreen, 
the  flowers  double  and  single,  white,  blue,  rose,  and  red.  Perennial. 

Garden  Pink  (Dianthus  Ilortensis).  A  pretty  and  common  flower, 
worthy  of  a  place  in  every  flower  garden.  Perennial.  June. 

Fraxinetta  (Dictxmnus  Fraxinellct).     The  red   and  white  fraxinella 


HARDY   HERBACEOUS   PLANTS.  349 

are  old-fashioned  favorites.  They  increase  slowly,  and  are  never  very 
plenty.  The  plants  possess  a  strong  aromatic  fragrance.  Perennials. 
May,  June. 

Dodocatheon  Medea  (American  Cowslip).  Flowers  in  large  umbels 
of  white  and  purple  blossoms,  with  reflexed  petals.  Very  ornamental. 
May.  Perennial. 

Foxglove  (Digitalis).  There  are  many  varieties,  with  purple,  white, 
yellow,  rusty,  and  variegated  flowers.  The  plant  is  a  biennial,  and 
therefore  seeds  should  be  sown  each  year.  July  and  August. 

Day  Lily  (Hemerocallis  and  Funkia).  Pretty  plants,  with  lily- 
shaped  flowers.  Colors,  yellow,  orange,  blue,  white,  and  variegated, 
blooming  from  June  to  August.  Perennials. 

Iris  and  Fleur  de  Lis.  A  large  genus  of  ornamental  plants,  all  per- 
ennials and  hardy. 

/.  Putnila.    Purple,  in  May. 

/.  Cristata.    Light  blue,  in  May. 

/.  Florenteiut.     White,  in  June. 

/.  Germanica.    Blue,  in  June. 

There  are  many  splendid  varieties  of  this  flower,  all  of  which  are 
very  ornamental. 

Everlasting  Pea  (Lathyrw  Latifolius).  This  plant  possesses  all  the 
beauty  of  the  sweet  pea,  wanting  only  its  fragance.  It  comes  up  year 
after  year,  flowering  abundantly.  Perennial.  Flowers,  white,  pink, 
rose,  and  purple ;  worthy  a  place  in  every  garden. 

Lupimis  Polyphyllus.  A  fine,  hardy  species,  producing  rich,  purple 
flowers.  Biennial.  June. 

Lychnis  Floscoculi  is  the  well  known  Ragged  Robin,  the  double 
variety  of  which  is  deservedly  a  favorite.  Perennial.  June. 

Spirea  Aruncus  (Goat's-beard).  A  very  showy  species  ;  flowers  white, 
in  June. 

S.  Filipendula  fi  pV.  Bears  fine  clusters  of  double  white  flowers, 
June  to  September. 

S.  Japonica  is  a  delicate  species,  also  with  white  flowers. 

30 


350  HARDY   HERBACEOUS   PLANTS. 

S.  Palmata.  A  variety  of  tall  habit,  bearing  immense  corymbs  of 
red  flowers.  June.  All  perennials. 

Veronica  Virginica  is  our  common  tall-growing  species,  producing 
white  flowers  in  August. 

V.  Speciosa  and  Spicata  produce  fine  blue  flowers,  and  are  of  dwarf 
habit.  Perennials.  June. 

Sanguinaria  Canadensis,  our  wild  Bloodroot ;  succeeds  admirably  in 
cultivation,  and  increases  in  size  and  vigor.  It  is  one  of  our  earliest 
spring  flowers,  and  should  be  more  generally  cultivated.  Flowers,  pure 
white,  with  yellow  stamens,  in  early  May. 

The  following  plants  are  all  well  worthy  of  cultivation, 
but  we  have  no  space  to  describe  them.  Unless  otherwise 
noted,  all  are  hardy  perennials. 

Saxifraga  Crassifolia.    Flowers  pink,  in  May. 

Monarda  Didyma.    Flowers  scarlet,  in  July. 

Chinese  Pceonies.    Red,  white,  and  blush.    May  to  July. 

Papaver  Orientalis.    Flowers  scarlet,  in  June. 

Perstemon  Coeruleum.     Flowers  blue.     August. 

AconUum  Napellus  (Monkshood).    Flowers  blue.     July. 

Alyssum  Saxitile.    Flowers  yellow.    May. 

Columbines,  in  variety.    Biennials.    June. 

Lunaria  Biennis  (Honesty).    Biennial ;   white  or  pink,  in  May. 

Sweet  William,  in  variety.    Biennials.     June. 

Verbascum  Pyramidalis.    Biennial ;   yellow.     August. 

Polemonium  Coeruleum.     Flowers  blue  or  white.    June. 

Rudbeckia  Fulgida.     Flowers  yellow.    July. 

Iberis  Tenoriana.    Flowers  white.    May. 

Potentilla  Astrosanguinea.    Flowers  blood-red  all  summer. 

Dracocephalum  Virginiacum.    Flowers  purple.    July. 


HARDY  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS.  351 

Convolvulus  Panduratus.  A  fine,  hardy  climber,  with  profusion  of 
large  white  flowers,  with  purple  tube. 

Coronilla   Varia.    Flowers  pink,  in  May  and  June. 

Achilka  Ptarmica.    Flowers  white,  all  summer. 

Cassia  Marylandica.     Flowers  yellow,  in  August. 

Catananche  Cceruka.    Flowers  blue,  in  July. 

Adonis  Vernalis.     Flowers  yellow,  in  May. 

Geum  Coccinium.     Flowers  scarlet,  in  July. 

Hesperis  Matronalis.    Flowers  white  and  purple,  in  June. 

Pulmonaria  Virginica.       Flowers  blue,  in  May. 

Tradescantia  Virginica.      Flowers  white  and  blue,  all  summer. 

This  list  might  be  indefinitely  increased,  but  enough 
have  already  been  given  to  enable  the  ignorant  to  select  a 
choice  collection. 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 

HARDY  ANNUALS. 

Treatment.  —  Sowing.  —  Saving  Seed.  —  Watering.  —  Mignonette.  —  Sweet 
Pea.  —  Asters.  —  Balsam.—  Salpiglossis.  —  Abronia.  —  Nigella.  —  Agera- 
tum.  —  Coreopsis.  —  Sweet  Allyssum.  —  Candytuft.  —  Clarkia.  —  Convol- 
vulus. —  Eschscoltzia.  —  Lupins.  —  Portulacca.  —  Indian  Shot.  —  Lark- 
spur. —  Amaranth.  —  Gillyflower.  —  Schizanthus.  —  Zinnia.  —  List  of 
Choice  Species.  —  List  of  Climbing  Annuals.  —  Cypress  Vine. 

E  CANNOT  say  these  plants  are 
w  favorites.  With  the  number 
of  fine  bedding  plants  now 
easily  obtainable,  they  are 
by  no  means  so  much  cul- 
tivated as  formerly.  Yet 
there  are  some  which  are 
indispensable,  many  which  are 
endeared  by  old  associations,  and  many, 
without  which  our  summer  garden  will  not  be  complete. 
What  can  excel  the  beauty  of  the  annual  Phlox,  the  bril- 
liant contrasts  of  the  annual  Morning  Glory,  the  dazzling 

C352) 


HARDY   ANNUALS.  353 

colors  of  the  Portulacca,  the  fine-cut  and  curiously-marked 
leaves  of  the  Schizanthus,  the  sweet  perfume  of  the 
Mignonette  and  Sweet  Pea,  or  the  delicate  pencillings  of 
the  Salpiglossis  ! 

The  treatment  of  annuals  is  very  simple ;  they  may  be 
divided  into  two  classes. 

Hardy  annuals,  which  may  be  sown  in  autumn  and  come 
up,  surviving  the  winter  and  blooming  early  the  next  sum- 
mer ;  or  which  may  be  sown  in  spring,  in  the  open  border, 
for  summer  bloom. 

Half-hardy  annuals,  which  are  sown  after  the  ground  be- 
comes warm  in  the  spring,  blossoming  the  same  summer. 
This  latter  class  may  again  be  subdivided,  according  to  the 
treatment  required,  into  garden  annuals  and  hot- bed  an- 
nuals ;  the  former  rapidly  coming  to  perfection  when  sown 
in  the  garden,  about  the  first  of  May  ;  the  latter  requiring 
a  longer  season,  and  thus  needing  to  be  started  and  brought 
forward  in  a  hot-bed,  and  then  transplanted  to  the 
garden. 

Strictly  speaking,  annuals  are  plants  which  live  but  one 
year,  that  is,  spring  up,  make  their  growth,  bloom,  and 
perfect  seed  in  one  season  ;  but  many  plants  treated  as  an- 
nuals may  be  preserved  many  years  in  a  frame  or  green- 
30* 


354  HARDY   ANNUALS. 

house,  while  at  the  same  time  in  the  garden  they  bloom 
and  seed  in  a  single  summer,  as  for  instance  the  Petunia 
and  Nasturtium. 

Others,  again,  form  tubers,  which,  if  properly  cared  for 
during  the  winter,  and  planted  out  in  the  spring,  grow 
again  with  vigor  and  flower  profusely,  and  so  on  indefinitely, 
as  the  Four  O' Clock  (Mirabilis),  the  Commelina,  the  Scar- 
let Bean,  and  Salvia  Patens. 

There  are,  however,  some  annuals  which  must  be  sown 
where  they  are  to  grow,  and  which  will  not  bear  transplant- 
ing. Of  these,  our  most  familiar  examples  are  Larkspurs, 
Poppies,  Candytuft,  Lupins,  Mignonette,  Convolvulus, 
Sweet  Peas. 

If,  however,  it  is  desirable  to  force  these  plants,  they 
may  be  started  in  pots  in  hot-beds,  and  then  turned  out 
into  the  open  ground,  without  breaking  the  ball  of  earth 
enclosing  the  plants. 

In  the  following  list,  we  cannot  pretend  to  give  more  than 
a  few  of  the  best  species.  Our  descriptions  are  necessarily 
brief,  but  we  give,  in  as  few  words  as  possible,  the  name, 
color,  season  of  blooming,  and  culture.  Where  we  have 
been  more  diffuse,  it  has  been  because  the  beauty  of  the 
plant  demands  special  notice. 


HARDY   ANNUALS.  355 

But  first,  a  word  as  to  sowing  ;  the  general  fault  is  plant- 
ing too  deep. 

No  rule  of  general  application  can  be  given,  for  the 
proper  depth  must  be  regulated  by  the  size  of  the  seed. 
Lupins,  Sweet  Peas,  and  such  large  seeds,  may  be  covered 
one  inch,  while  very  small  seed,  such  as  Portulacca,  should 
be  sown  on  the  surface,  and  a  very  light  covering  of  fine 
earth  sifted  over  it. 

The  border  for  annuals  must  be  finely  dug,  and  the  soil 
well  pulverized  and  raked  smooth  ;  if  the  surface  is  coarse 
and  lumpy,  most  of  your  small  seeds  will  fail. 

Hardy  annuals  may  be  sown  in  August,  for  early  bloom 
the  next  season  ;  or  about  the  middle  of  April,  for  bloom  in 
the  latter  part  of  the  summer. 

Half-hardy  annuals  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground 
about  the  first  of  May. 

The  tender  species  should  be  started  in  the  hot-bed, 
sown  either  in  pots  or  in  the  bed,  about  the  first  of  April, 
and  transplanted  to  the  open  border  about  the  tenth  of 
May,  or  when  all  danger  of  frost  is  past. 

If  the  plants  come  up  very  thick,  thin  out  the  weakest ; 
you  will  thus  give  more  room  for  the  others,  and  secure  a 
better  and  larger  bloom. 


856  HARDY  ANNUALS. 

A  word  as  to  saving  seed.  It  is  usually  ripe  when  the 
seed  capsule  begins  to  turn  yellow  ;  it  should  then  be  gath- 
ered, exposed  in  an  airy,  sunny  place  for  a  few  days,  to 
allow  it  to  become  perfectly  dry,  and  then  put  up  in  care- 
fully labelled  papers.  In  purchasing  seed,  buy  nothing  in 
"  fine  mixed  varieties,"  unless  you  wish  the  refuse  ;  for  one 
good  you  get  a  dozen  poor  kinds ;  learn  what  you  want, 
and  buy  only  that.  Again,  select  the  best  varieties,  and 
buy  only  those  ;  a  poor  variety  occupies  as  much  room  as  a 
good  one. 

In  autumn,  when  the  frost  has  killed  down  the  plants, 
pull  up  the  old  stalks,  and  clear  up  the  border,  for  the 
season's  work  is  done,  and  the  next  spring  new  seeds  will 
give  you  new  plants. 

Watering,  which  is  sometimes  needed  by  delicate  grow- 
ing species,  should  be  given  from  a  fine  rosed  watering-pot, 
either  early  in  the  morning  or  late  in  the  evening. 

MIGNOXETTE  (Reseda  Odorata).  Sow  in  the  autumn, 
very  late,  when  it  will  vegetate  the  next  spring,  or  early  in 
April.  Flowers,  greenish  white  all  summer,  of  an  exquisite 
fragrance.  Where  this  plant  has  once  grown  well,  it  will 
come  up  year  after  year,  without  further  care,  from  self- 
sown  seed. 


HARDY   ANNUALS.  357 

SWEET  PEA  (Lathyrus  Odoratus)J  Sow  as  early  as  possi- 
ble in  the  spring,  in  rich  soil ;  the  flowers  are  pink,  purple, 
white,  and  variegated.  Grows  from  two  to  five  feet  high, 
blooming  from  July  until  killed  by  the  frost. 

They  may  be  trained  on  strings  or  a  trellis,  against  a  wall 
or  fence,  or  on  neat  pea  sticks  ;  we  prefer  the  latter  method. 

ASTERS,  Chinese,  German,  or  French  (Callistephus 
Chinensis  var.)  A  long  treatise  might  be  written  on 
the  different  varieties  of  this  beautiful  flower.  All  the 
kinds  should  be  sown  in  a  hot-bed  about  the  middle  of 
April,  and  transplanted  to  the  garden  about  the  middle  of 
May.  A  pretty  effect  is  produced  by  .planting  in  a  bed, 
setting  the  plants  one  foot  apart  each  way.  Colors,  red, 
white,  blue,  pink,  and  all  possible  shades.  The  flowers  are 
also  "  quilled,"  or  "  paeony  flowers."  A  rich,  deep,  rather 
moist  soil  suits  them  well.  The  best  varieties  are  Traffaut's 
new  Paeony  Flowered,  Chinensis,  Dwarf  Chrysanthemum 
Flowered,  German,  Pyramidal,  Hedgehog,  and  Ranunculus 
Flowered. 

BALSAM  (Impatiens  Noli-tangere).  Flowers  white,  flesh 
color,  pink,  red  and  purple,  spotted  and  striped ;  blooming 
from  June  to  October.  Treatment  the  same  as  for  Asters. 

SALPIGLOSSIS  ATROPURPUREA  is  properly  a  green-house 


358  HARDY   ANNUALS. 

plant,  but  does  well  started  in  a  hot-bed  in  April,  and 
transplanted  into  a  highly  manured,  sandy  loam.  Flowers 
of  the  different  varieties,  purple,  white,  straw  color,  and 
beautifully  marked.,  It  may  be  kept  in  the  green-house  for 
years,  if  not  allowed  to  seed.  Blooms  from  June  to  Sep- 
tember. 

ABRONIA  UMBELLATA,  a  beautiful  little  trailer,  with 
heads  of  fragrant  rose-colored  flowers.  Grows  well  in  light, 
rich  soil.  Sow  in  frame  in  April,  or  in  open  border  in  May. 

NIGELLA  HISPANIC  A  and  DAMASCENA  (Love  in  a  Mist). 
Very  free  flowering  plants,  with  curious  seed  vessels. 
Colors,  white,  blue,  purple,  yellow.  June  to  October. 
Sow  in  the  garden  in  May. 

AGEEATTJM  MEXICANUM.  A  class  of  pretty  summer 
flowers,  growing  freely  in  any.  soil.  Blue  and  white.  June 
to  September.  This  is  often  used  as  a  bedding  plant,  and 
propagates  freely  by  cuttings.  Sow  in  open  border  in  May, 
or  in  frame  in  April. 

COREOPSIS,  in  its  many  varieties,  with  yellow,  crimson, 
and  brown  flowers,  all  summer.  Sow  in  May,  in  open  bor- 
der. These  plants  will  come  up  for  years  where  they  have 
once  been  grown. 

ALLYSSUM    MAEITIMUM    (Sweet    Allyssum).       Flowers 


HARDY    ANNUALS.  359 

white  and  fragrant,  resembling  miniature  Candytuft.  Sow 
in  open  border  in  April.  It  will  come  up,  year  after  year, 
from  self-sown  seed. 

IBERIS  ODORATA  and  UMBELLATA  (Candytuft,  and  vari- 
eties). Fine,  hardy,  free-blooming  annuals,  with  white, 
red,  and  purple  flowers,  from  June  to  August.  Sow  in 
open  border  in  May. 

CLARKIA  ELEGANS  and  varieties.  Hardy  annuals,  bloom- 
ing from  June  to  August.  Sow  in  open  border  in  May. 
Flowers  white,  rose,  and  purple. 

CONVOLVULUS  MINOR.  The  pretty  dwarf  Morning 
Glory,  with  blue,  white-eyed  flowers,  from  June  to  Septem- 
ber. Sow  where  it  is  to  bloom  in  May. 

ESCHOLTZIA  (CHRYSEIS)  CALIFORNICA.  Very  showy 
plants,  with  yellow,  orange,  and  white  flowers.  Sow  in 
May  where  they  are  to  bloom. 

LUPINS,  varieties.  Flowers  blue,  white,  yellow,  and 
pink.  Sow  where  they  are  to  bloom  in  May.  They  will 
flourish  in  poor  soil.  Bloom  from  June  to  September. 

PORTULACCA.  Flowers  white,  red,  scarlet,  crimson,  yel- 
low, and  variegated.  We  know  of  no  better  plant  than  this 
for  a  hot  exposure.  It  blooms  from  June  until  killed  by  the 
frost.  Sows  itself,  and,  comes  up  year  after  year. 


360  HARDY   ANNUALS. 

CANNA  INDICA  and  varieties  (Indian  Shot).  A  tall  plant, 
of  tropical  aspect,  with  light  green  leaves  and  yellow 
flowers.  There  are  many  fine  varieties,  which  are  very 
ornamental.  Sow  in  pots,  in  a  frame,  and  transplant.  The 
seeds  should  be  soaked  in  boiling  water  before  planting, 
otherwise  they  are  a  long  time  vegetating.  Soil,  rich  deep 
loam.  Blooms  from  July  to  October. 

The  roots  may  be  kept  in  the  cellar,  and  re-planted  in 
the  spring,  when  they  will  make  finer  plants,  and  bloom 
earlier. 

The  following  are  fine  varieties :  — 

C.  Warscewiczii.    Brilliant  red.  C.  NoUlis.     Red. 

C.  Anneii.    Crimson.  C.  Angitstifoha.    Light  red. 

C.  Gigantea.     Scarlet  yellow.  C.  Aurea  Vittata.    Golden. 

C.  Limbata.    Scarlet  and  yellow.  C.  Sellowii.     Scarlet. 

C.  Bicolor,    Red  and  yellow. 

DELPHINEUM  AJACIS  (Rocket  Larkspur).  A  popular 
garden  flower.  Sow  where  it  is  to  stand,  in  August,  for  the 
next  year's  bloom,  or  in  April.  Colors,  red,  blue,  white, 
and  purple.  Blooms  from  June  to  September. 

GOMPHRENA  GLOBOSA  (Globe  Amaranth).  A  fine  plant, 
needing  to  be  brought  forward  in  the  hot-bed.  Colors, 
purplish  red,  white,  and  orange.  Blooms  all  summer.  The 
flowers  dried  form  pretty  winter  bouquets. 


HARDY   ANNUALS.  361 

MATHIOLA  (Ten- Week  Stock).  The  annual  varieties  of 
the  Gillyflower  are  very  pretty  summer  blooming  plants. 
They  should  be  sown  in  the  hot-bed  in  April,  and  trans- 
planted with  care,  for  they  bear  it  poorly,  owing  to  their 
long,  fibreless  roots.  Flowers  white,  purple,  red,  and  yel- 
low all  summer. 

SCHIZANTHUS  PiNNATUs.  Very  ornamental  little  plants, 
with  red,  white,  purple,  yellow,  and  variegated  flowers. 
They  should  be  started  in  pots,  in  the  frame,  and  carefully 
transplanted.  Bloom  from  July  to  October. 

ZINNIA  ELEGANS  FL'  PL'.  The  single  Zinnia  was  an  old 
favorite  in  the  garden,  but  is  now  completely  eclipsed  by 
the  fine  double  varieties.  The  seeds  should  be  started  in  a 
frame  in  April,  and  transplanted  in  May,  They  grow  to  a 
large  size,  and  produce  a  profusion  of  red,  yellow,  and  pur- 
ple flowers,  as  large  as  a  rose,  all  summer.  l"hey  are 
among  the  most  ornamental  plants  of  the  garden. 

The  following  list  includes  many  fine  species,  all  of  which 
are  worthy  a  place  in  a  large  garden. 


Acroclineum  Roseum.  Open  border.  Bartonia  Aurea.    Frame. 

Didiscus  Cceruleus.    Frame.  Cacalia  Coccinea.     Open  border. 

Annual  Chrysanthemum.  Open  Amaranthus  Tricolor.  Open  border, 

border.  Hibiscus  Africanus.     Open  border 

31 


362  HARDY    ANNUALS. 

Erysimum    Peroffskianum.      Open  Clintonia  Elegans  and  Pulchclla. 

border.  Open  border. 

Browallia  Elata.    Frame  or  border.  Perilla  Nankinensis.     Frame  or 

Gilia,  in  variety.     Frame  or  border.  border. 

Anagallis,  in  variety.    Open  border.  Helichrysum,  in  variety.     Frame 

Lavatera.    Open  border.  or  border. 

Calendula  Officinalis.    Open  border.  Collinsia,  in  variety.  Open  border. 

Brachycome  Ibiridifolia.     Frame  or  Phlox  Drummondii.    Frame. 

border.  Rhodanthe  Manglesii.    Frame  or 

CallirohcePedata.    Frame,  in  pot.  border. 

Antirrhinum,  in  variety.    Frame  in  Scabiosa  Atropurpurea.   Open  bor- 

pot.  der. 

Four  O' Clocks.     Open  border.  Silene  or  Catclifly.     Open  border. 

Martynia  Fragrans.    Frame.  Tournefortia            Ih-liotropoides. 

Centaurea,  in  variety.     Frame.  Frame  or  border. 

Godetia,  in  variety.    Open  border.  Linum  Grandiflorwn.     Frame  in 

Nolana  Atriplicifolia.     Open  bor-  pot. 

der.  Petunia,  in 'variety.    Frame. 

The  following  are  climbing  annuals,  adapted  for  covering 
walls  or  trellises.  They  should  all,  except  the  Ipomeas,  be 
started  in  pots,  in  the  frame,  and  turned  out  into  the  border 
about  the  first  of  May. 

IPOMEA  QUAMOCLIT  is  the  pretty,  graceful  cypress  vine. 
The  seed  vegetates  with  difficulty.  Delay  planting  until 
about  the  first  of  June,  then  choose  a  very  hot  noon.  Plant 
the  seed  where  it  is  to  stand,  in  a  large  circle,  so  a  pole 
may  be  set  in  the  centre,  and  strings  led  to  the  top  from  the 
plant,  for  this  is  the  prettiest  way  of  growing  it.  Then 


HARDY   ANNUALS. 


363 


take  a  large  water-pot  full  of  boiling  water  and  water  the 
seed.  Under  this  treatment  it  will  often  come  up  in 
twenty-four  hours. 

Tropeeolum  (Nasturtium).    Open  border. 

Thunberyia.     Frame  in  pot. 

Maurandia.    Frame  in  pot. 

Loasa  Lateritia.    Frame  in  pot. 

Ipomea.    Open  border. 

Convolvulus  Major  (Morning  Glory.)    Open  border. 

Cobea  Scandcns.     Frame  in  pot. 

Cardiospermum  (Balloon  Vine).     Open  border. 

Adlumia  Cirrhosa  (Mountain  Fringe,  or  Traveller's  Joy).  Open  border. 


CHAPTER    XXIV. 

BEDDING   PLANTS. 

Propagation.  —  Gazauia.  —  Verbena.  —  Lantana.  —  Heliotrope.  —  Calceola- 
rias. —  Geraniums.  —  Petunias.  —  Cuphca.  —  Feverfew.  —  Nierembergia.  — 
Salvia.  —  Tritoma. 

S  COMMONLY  used,  this  general 
term  is  given  to  plants  which  are 
winter  inhabitants  of  the  green-house, 
but  which,  if  planted  in  the  garden, 
bloom  profusely  all  summer.  They 
are  generally  green-house  peren- 
nials, but  among  them  are  included  many 
plants  which  bloom  late  in  the  summer, 
from  seed  sown  the  same  spring,  and  of 
which  fine  varieties  are  propagated  by  cut- 
tings. As  examples,  we  may  mention  petunias  and  ver- 
benas. 

The  treatment  of  these  plants  is  very  simple ;   about  the 
middle  of  May  turn  them  out  into  the  flower  garden  ;  they 

(364) 


BEDDING    PLANTS.  365 

will  grow  finely,  and  give  profuse  bloom.  In  August  take 
off  cuttings,  and  root  them  in  the  green-house,  or  in  a 
frame  for  your  winter's  stock,  unless  you  wish  to  preserve 
the  old  plants ;  if  so,  leave  them  in  the  garden  until  just 
before  the  frost  comes ;  then  pot  them,  and  winter  in  the 
green-house,  parlor,  or  conservatoiy.  It  is,  however,  always 
a  good  plan  to  have  a  stock  of  summer  cuttings.  Some 
species,  as  Scarlet  Geraniums,  and  Erythrinas,  are  win- 
tered in  a  dry  state  in  a  cellar,  secure  from  frost,  and 
again  set  out  in  the  spring.  * 

We  describe  a  few  of  the  principal  plants  coming  under 
this  head :  — 

GAZANIA  SPLENDENS.  During  the  past  season  this 
plant  has  attracted  considerable  attention  as  a  new  and 
desirable  bedding  plant.  Its  recommendations  are,  its 
small  size,  the  brilliancy  and  number  of  its  flowers,  and 
the  rich  contrasts  of  color;  it  is  also  a  plant  of  easy 
growth,  and  small  plants  soon  become  vigorous  specimens. 

The  colors  are  rich  orange  yellow,  a  circle  of  black, 
banded  and  mottled  with  white  and  brown  or  choco- 
late at  the  base  of  the  petals,  the  centre  a  reddish 
orange  ;  foliage  dark  green.  In  form,  the  flower  some- 
•vhat  resembles  a  small  sunflower,  or  chrysanthemum. 
31* 


366  BEDDING   PLANTS. 

The  present  variety  somewhat  resembles  the  old  G. 
uniflora,  differing  from  it  in  its  dwarf  habit  and  com- 
pact growth ;  the  branches  are  sometimes  erect,  but  bend 
down  with  the  weight  of  the  flowers.  The  contrast  of 
the  orange  yellow,  black,  white,  and  chocolate  in  the  flower, 
produces  a  most  brilliant  effect. 

The  culture  of  this  plant  is  very  simple ;  it  will  do 
well  in  almost  any  soil,  and  produces  flowers  in  profu- 
sion, from  early  spring  until  late  in  the  autumn.  It  is 
not  dried  up  by  the  heat  of  summer,  or  affected  by 
atmospheric  changes,  but  flowers  throughout  the  season, 
closing  its  splendid  flowers  during  the  night,  and  opening 
them  during  the  day.  It  is  well  adapted  for  pot  cul- 
ture ;  its  growth  is  vigorous  as  well  as  neat  and  clean, 
and  it  is  not  subject  to  the  attacks  of  red  spider  and  other 
troublesome  insects. 

There  are  about  forty  species  of  the  Gazania,  of  which 
most  are  unknown  to  our  gardens ;  all  are  natives  of 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

As  a  bedding  plant,  this  variety  is  invaluable;  plan* 
in  early  spring,  and  take  up  just  before  the  first  frost. 

VERBENA.  We  have  treated  so  fully  of  this  plant  on 
previous  pages  that  further  mention  is  unnecessary.  As 


BEDDING   PLANTS.  367 

a  bedding  plant  it  is  unsurpassed.  If  planted  in  a  com- 
post of  peat  and  leaf  mould  it  makes  rampant  growth, 
and  gives  flowers  of  great  size  and  brilliancy. 

LANTANA.  This  is  a  showy,  shrubby  plant,  of  easy 
culture  in  any  garden  soil ;  the  flowers  are  in  small, 
rounded,  or  flat  trusses,  resembling  in  form  a  verbena.  It 
may  be  wintered  in  a  light  cellar.  The  following  are  fine 
kinds :  — 

L'Abbe  Leautier.     Yellow,   shading  Victoire.    Pure   white,  yellow 

to  crimson.  eye. 

Lutea  Rosea.    Fine  yellow,  shading  Speciosa.     Orange  scarlet. 

to  white.  Lilacina.     Lilac  rose. 

Delicatissima.     Fine  rosy  purple.  Alba  Grandiflora.     Fine  white. 

HELIOTROPE.  In  addition  to  varieties  mentioned  in  a 
former  chapter,  we  can  recommend,  — 

Miss  Nightingale.    Deep  violet.  Jean  Mesmer.     Very  light  blush. 

Reine  des  Heliotropes.   Violet  and  Beauty  of  the  Boudoir.    Dark. 

lilac.  Flore.    Violet,  light  centre. 
La  Petite  Negress.  Very  dark,  dwarf. 

CALCEOLARIAS.  The  shrubby  varieties  are  very  orna- 
mental during  the  whole  season.  The  following  are  good :  — 

Queen  of  Oude.  Orange  crimson.  Prince  of  Orange.  Orange  and 
Sulphuria,  Yellow.  brown. 

Gen.  Outram.    Bronze  scarlet 


368 


BEDDING   PLANTS. 


HORSESHOE  GERANIUMS.  The  following  are  fine  varie- 
ties :  — 

Perfection.     Scarlet  flower ;  variegated  foliage. 
Scarlet  Globe.     Scarlet ;  white  eye. 
Shottesham  Pet.     Cerise  scarlet ;  variegated  foliage. 
Golden  Chain.    Scarlet ;  variegated  foliage. 
Annie.    Brilliant  scarlet ;  variegated  foliage. 
Duchess  of  Kent.    Scarlet ;  white  eye. 
Bijou.     Scarlet ;  variegated  foliage. 
Princess  Alice.    Pink. 

PETUNIAS.  As  we  have  before  said,  the  fine  varieties 
are  always  propagated  by  cuttings.  The  following  are 
fine  kinds : — 

Countess  of  Ellesmere.    Scarlet ;  white  eye. 

Victory.    Dark  crimson. 

Flag  of  America.     Striped. 

General  Me  Clcllan.    Purple  and  white,  double. 

Miranda.     Purple  and  white. 

Solfei'ino.     Purple,  double. 

Blonde.     White,  carmine  edge. 

La  Rcine.     Violet  rose. 

CUPHEA  PLATYCENTRA,  of  which  we  have  before  spoken, 
makes  a  fine  bedding  plant. 

DOUBLE  WHITE  FEVERFEW  is  fine  for  garden  culture. 

NIEREMBERGIA.  A  delicate  little  plant,  with  fine  foliage, 
and  salver-shaped  flowers,  covering  the  whole  plant. 


BEDDING   PLANTS.  869 

N.  gracilis,  flowers  blue  and  white.  N.  grandiflora,  pure 
white,  very  large. 

SALVIAS  are  indispensable  for  autumn  bloom :  the  two 
best  are  those  we  have  before  described  —  S.  splendens? 
with  scarlet,  and  S.  patens,  with  blue  flowers. 

TKITOMA  UVAKIA  is  a  stately-growing  plant,  with  reedy 
leaves,  throwing  up  a  tall  spike  of  crimson  orange  flowers. 
It  must  be  preserved  in  the  cellar  in  winter.  The  variety 
Glaucescens  is  not  so  highly  colored,  and  Serotina  blooms 
late  into  the  autumn. 

In  addition  to  these,  the  various  kinds  of  Carnation  and 
Picotee  Pinks,  Tea  Roses,  Pansies,  Daisies,  Ageratum, 
Lychnis,  Bouvardias,  Anterrhinums,  Gaillardia,  Lemon 
Verbena,  and  Lobelia,  can  generally  be  obtained  at  the 
green-houses.  All  these  make  good  summer-blooming 
plants. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


HARDY  AND  HALF-HARDY  GARDEN  BULBS. 

Preparation    of    Ground.  — Planting-.  — Protecting. —  Summer    Treatment. 

—  Tulips.— Crown    Imperial.  —  Guinea    Hen 
Flower.  —  Anemones  and   Ranunculus.  —  Col- 
chicum.  —  Dog-  Tooth   Violet.  —  The  Lily.  — 
Preparation  of  Soil.  —  Species.  —  Tiger  Flower. 

—  Dahlia.  —  Tube  Roses.  —  Gladiolus.  —  Am- 
aryllis. 

THE  greater  part  of  the  Dutch 
bulbs,  which  we  have  so  fully  de- 
scribed in  former  pages,  will,  if 
planted  out  in  the  open  border,  and 
slightly  .covered  with  manure,  endure  the 
winter,  and  bloom  in  spring  or  summer.  The 
species  and  varieties  have  already  been  de- 
"scribed.  Their  out-door  treatment  is  very 
simple.  Select  a  warm,  sunny  spot  in  the  garden,  where 
good  drainage  can  be  secured ;  trench  this  about  eighteen 
inches  deep,  digging  in  a  liberal  quantity  of  well-rotted 
cow  manure,  and  enough  pure  sand  to  make  the  soil  rather 

(370) 


HARDY    AND    HALF-HARDY   GARDEN   BULBS.        371 

loose.  This  being  done,  about  the  first  of  October  plant 
the  bulbs  in  lines  and  circles,  or  as  may  suit  the  fancy. 

The  usual  fault  in  planting  bulbs  is  not  setting  them 
deep  enough ;  they  are  often  thrown  out  by  the  frost. 

Hyacinths  should  be  planted  four  inches  deep  ;  Crocus, 
two  inches ;  Iris,  three  inches  ;  Snowdrops,  two  inches ; 
Jonquils  and  Narcissus,  three  inches. 

The  bulbs  planted,  a  good  covering  of  coarse  manure 
and  straw  should  be  laid  over  the  bed  about  the  first  of 
December,  or  just  before  the  ground  freezes  up. 

In  the  spring,  say  about  the  first  of  April,  rake  off  the 
straw.  The  bulbs  will  be  found  well  up  ;  the  blanched  stalks 
will  soon  turn  green,  and  an  abundance  of  bloom  will  follow. 

After  the  leaves  have  died  down,  if  you  have  fine  varie- 
ties, it  is  best  to  take  them  up,  and  keep  them  in  a  dry 
place  until  the  season  for  planting  comes  again.  The  gen- 
eral practice  is,  however,  to  allow  the  bulbs  to  remain  in 
the  ground,  where,  if  undisturbed,  they  will  bloom  year 
after  year. 

This  treatment  is  suitable  for  Hyacinths,  Crocus,  hardy 
Gladiolus,  Iris,  Jonquils,  Narcissus,  and  Snowdrops. 

The  POLYANTHUS  NARCISSUS,  of  which  we  have  before 
spoken,  are  not  perfectly  hardy ;  the  bulbs  live,  but 


372        HARDY   AND   HALF-HARDY   GARDEN   BULBS. 

they   make    too    early    a   growth,    and    are    usually  frost- 
bitten. 

The  culture  of  the  fine  varieties  of  the  TULIP  requires 
more  care.  A  bed  for  choice  tulips  is  prepared  by  excavating 
a  pit  a  foot  and  a  half  or  two  feet  deep  ;  a  piece  of  ground 
in  an  open,  airy  situation,  and  dry  at  bottom,  having  been 
chosen.  In  this  pit  a  layer  is  placed  of  thoroughly  rotten 
horse  dung,  at  least  two  years  old,  and  generally  the 
remains  of  an  old  hot-bed,  and  the  bed  is  filled  in  to 
within  one  inch  of  the  top  with  rich  sandy  loam ;  old 
loamy  turf,  chopped  fine  and  mixed  with  sand,  and  a  little 
rotten  dung,  is  the  best,  where  it  can  be  procured.  The 
surface  of  the  bed  is  then  covered  with  sharp  or  drift  sand, 
and  in  this  the  bulbs  are  planted  about  six  inches  apart 
every  way,  and  the  bed  is  filled  up  so  as  to  raise  it  about 
three  inches  above  the  surface,  and  to  bury  the  bulbs  about 
four  inches  deep.  The  bed  should  be  highest  in  the 
middle,  and  slope  to  both  sides,  to  throw  off  the  rain. 
The  bulbs  are  generally  planted  in  October,  and  as  the 
tulip  is  very  hardy,  it  seldom  requires  any  protection, 
unless  the  winter  should  be  very  unfavorable,  either 
from  severe  frosts  or  almost  constant  rain,  in  which 
case  the  bed  may  be  protected  by  being  hooped  over, 


HARDY  AND  HALF-HARDY  GARDEN  BULBS.   373 

and  then  covered  with  mats,  care  being  taken  to  leave 
a  part  to  open  when  the  weather  is  fine.  When  the  plants 
are  near  flowering,  a  frame  should  be  placed  round  them 
to  support  an  awning  to  shield  them  from  the  sun 
and  rain.  As  the  bed  is  generally  four  feet  wide,  the 
frame,  which  includes  a  walk  round  it,  is  about  twelve 
feet  wide ;  the  length  varies  according  to  the  extent  of  the 
ground,  or  the  number  of  bulbs  to  be  planted.  When 
the  flowers  fall,  and  the  leaves  begin  to  turn  yellow  at 
the  tips,  the  bulbs  may  be  taken  up  and  laid  on 
shelves,  with  the  root  end  uppermost,  to  dry.  When 
the  fibrous  roots  are  sufficiently  withered  to  allow  them  to 
be  rubbed  off,  the  bulbs  may  be  placed  in  drawers  or 
boxed,  where  they  must  be  kept  dry  until  the  season  for 
planting  arrives. 

If  the  bulbs  are  not  taken  up  they  soon  deteriorate, 
the  flowers  returning  to  the  original  red  self- color  of  the 
species. 

The  CROWN  IMPERIALS  (Fritillaria  Imperialis)  are  the 
most  stately  of  spring  bulbs.  The  varieties  are  yellow 
and  red,  single  and  double,  golden  and  silver-leaved,  and 
many  named  varieties,  which  do  not,  however,  differ  much 
in  color  from  those  above  named. 
32 


374        HARDY   AND    HALF-HARDY   GARDEN   BULBS. 

They  are  all  highly  ornamental,  and  will  thrive  in  any 
rich,  deep  soil.  They  are  impatient  of  being  disturbed, 
and  when  taken  up  should  never  be  long  kept  out  of  the 
ground. 

The  same  treatment  is  required  for  Frittelaria  Persica,  a 
beautiful  species,  with  glaucous  blue  foliage,  and  a  large 
cluster  of  purplish  flowers. 

FRITILLAKIA  MELEAGEIS  is  the  pretty  little  Guinea  Hen 
Flower ;  there  are  also  white  varieties.  The  treatment 
above  described  for  the  crocus  will  suit  it  perfectly ;  it 
flowers  about  the  middle  of  May. 

ANEMONES  and  RANUNCULUS  seldom  do  well  in  our  cli- 
mate under  open  culture ;  our  winters  are.  so  long  and  wet 
the  tubers  either  sprout  prematurely,  and  are  killed,  or  rot  in 
the  ground.  The  hundreds  of  packages  sold  each  autumn, 
at  auction,  are  not  worth  the  paper  they  are  wrapped  in. 

COLCHICUM-AUTUMNALE  is  a  pretty  bulb,  with  flowers 
resembling  a  crocus,  purple,  white,  striped,  single  and 
double  ;  treat  as  a  crocus.  The  peculiarity  of  the  plant  is, 
that  the  flowers  are  produced  late  in  autumn;  and  the 
leaves  appear,  ripening  the  seed,  in  the  following  spring. 
It  is  a  very  pretty  and  interesting  plant.  The  bulbs  are 
very  large,  and  when  once  planted  should  not  be  disturbed 
There  are  also  spring- blooming  varieties. 


HARDY  AND   HALF-HARDY  GARDEN  BULBS.        375 

DOG-TOOTH  VIOLET  (Eryihroniutn  dens  canis) ;  a  most 
lovely  flower,  purple  and  white.  It  is  very  liable  to  die 
out,  and  should  not  be  disturbed  after  being  planted.  The 
bulbs  should  never  be  kept  long  out  of  the  ground.  This 
little  bulb  is  worthy  of  every  care  ;  its  flowers  are  among 
the  most  beautiful  and  graceful  in  the  floral  kingdom. 
It  may  be  imported  for  a  few  pennies  per  bulb,  but 
cannot,  to  our  knowledge,  be  obtained  in  this  country. 
The  loss  on  importations  is  about  fifty  per  cent.,  from 
rotting  and  drying.  Our  woods  produce  a  pretty  yellow 
species,  with  beautiful  foliage.  It  succeeds  poorly  in  the 
garden. 

THE  LILY.  This  is  a  large  family  of  ornamental  bulbs ; 
many  of  them  are  hardy,  and  indispensable  in  the  flower 
garden. 

The  plants  will  grow  in  any  garden  soil,  but  a  little 
attention  will  be  repaid  by  greater  luxuriance  and  more 
abundant  bloom. 

The  proper  soil  is  a  compost  of  one  part  loam,  one 
part  peat,  one  part  clean  sand,  and  one  part  leaf  mould. 
Excavate  the  soil  for  about  two  feet  in  depth,  and  fill  in 
with  the  compost.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted  from 
three  to  five  inches  deep,  according  to  the  size.  Autumn 


376        HARDY   AND    HALF-HARDY   GARDEN   BULBS. 

planting  is  preferable.  The  bulbs,  if  kept  long  out  of 
the  ground,  shrivel  and  are  weakened ;  it  is  on  this 
account  that  imported  bulbs  so  seldom  flower  well  the 
first  year. 

The  soil  should  be  frequently  enriched,  as  the  lily  is  a 
gross  feeder,  and  will  bear  a  large  amount  of  manure, 
showing  the  effect  in  increased  size  of  stem  and  leaves, 
and  number  of  blossoms. 

During  the  winter  the  bulbs  should  be  protected  by  a 
covering  of  coarse  manure,  and  in  summer  a  little  mulch- 
ing placed  over  the  bed,  to  protect  the  ground  from  the 
sun,  is  beneficial.  The  best  species  are,  — 

Lilium  candidum,  one  of  the  oldest  •  garden  flowers ; 
always  a  favorite,  from  its  fragrance  and  beauty  ;  too  well 
known  to  need  description.  A  variety  with  double  flowers 
is  destitute  of  beauty,  and  can  only  be  regarded  as  a  mon- 
strosity ;  the  variety  with  striped  leaves  is  desirable.  L. 
perigrinum  somewhat  resembles  the  last,  but  is  botan- 
ically  distinct.  L.  bulbifemm  is  the  common  orange 
lily.  L.  longiflorum,  a  lovely  species ;  flowers,  pure 
white,  very  long,  and  fragrant ;  requires  slight  protection 
during  the  winter.  Lilium  lancifolium  album,  L.  I. 
roseum,  L.  L  speciosum :  These  three  lilies  are  generally 


HARDY   AND   HALF-HARDY   GARDEN   BULBS.        377 

known  as  Japan  Lilies.  The  former  is  pure  white,  and  is 
a  plant  of  most  vigorous  growth,  the  stems  often  pro- 
ducing from  ten  to  twenty  flowers  ;  it  is  as  hardy  as  the 
common  white  lily,  and  like  it,  will  grow  in  any  good 
garden  soil.  To  produce  the  flowers  in  perfection,  a  rich, 
deep  soil,  as  above  directed,  should  be  prepared,  and  the 
bulbs  planted  at  least  one  foot  from  each  other  every  way. 
The  growth  of  the  other  two  varieties  is  weaker,  but  the 
flowers  are  of  surpassing  beauty;  deep  rose  or  red,  all 
spotted  and  rough,  with  brilliant  shining  points,  resembling 
so  many  gems.  Treatment  for  all  the  varieties  is  the 
same.  There  are  many  fine  seedlings. 

L.  Japonicum,  a  variety  with  large,  white,  bell-shaped 
flowers,  resembling  L.  longiflorum.  Treat  as  the  last  two 
species. 

L.  monadelphum,  a  pretty  species,  resembling  in  growth 
the  Martagon  family,  —  sometimes  called  the  Caucasian 
Lily,  from  its  native  country  ;  flowers,  yellow  spotted, 
drooping.  Will  grow  in  any  garden  soil. 

L.  Philadelphicum,  one  of  our  native  species,  commonly 
called  the  Blackberry  Lily.  Soil  should  be  rather  sandy ; 
flowers  deep  red,  spotted  with  black. 

L.  Canadense,  another  fine  native  variety,  with  light 
32* 


378        HARDY   AND    HALF-HARDY   GARDEN   BULBS. 

orange  and  yellow  drooping  flowers.  It  improves  wonder- 
fully in  cultivation,  often  throwing  a  stalk  five  feet  in 
height,  bearing  twenty  flowers. 

L.  superbum,  our  finest  native  species  ;  flowers  orange 
reddish,  with  numerous  spots  ;  drooping.  Succeeds  as  well 
as  L.  Canadense  in  cultivation. 

L.  Martagon,  fine  varieties,  with  white  and  purple 
flowers ;  very  ornamental,  and  hardy,  if  the  soil  is  rather 
sandy. 

L.  chalcedonicum,  the  Scarlet  Martagon ;  one  of  the 
most  highly-colored  species ;  hardy,  and  worthy  of  a  place 
in  every  garden. 

L.  testaceum,  or  excehum,  a  beautiful  species,  growing 
from  two  to  four  feet  high ;  flowers  in  terminal  umbels, 
yellow  or  straw  color,  with  faint  red  spots.  It  should  be 
planted  deep,  as  the  bulb  makes  roots  both  above  and 
below  ;  perfectly  hardy. 

L.  Tliunbergianum,  a  showy,  orange  red  variety,  from 
Japan ;  hardy. 

L.  auratum  is  the  new  Golden-banded  Lily,  just  intro- 
duced. In  size  and  markings  it  is  the  most  beautiful  of  the 
family.  It  will  probably  prove  hardy,  but  as  yet  is  very 
rare. 


HARDY   AND    HALF-HARDY   GARDEN   BULBS.         379 

We  have  now  to  say  a  few  words  about  summer  bulbs, 
or  tubers,  which  have  not  been  mentioned  in  former 
chapters. 

TIGRIDIA  (Tiger  Flower).  This  is  a  beautiful  class  of 
Mexican  bulbs,  of  easy  culture,  producing  showy,  spotted 
flowers  all  summer.  The  most  common  varieties  are  T. 
pavonia,  rich  scarlet,  spotted  with  black ;  T.  conchiflora, 
yellow,  spotted  with  black ;  T.  speciosa,  a  hybrid  between 
these  two  species,  and  partaking  of  the  character  and  color 
of  both.  T.  Wheelerii,  a  seedling  from  conchiflora. 

The  "  blue  Tiger  Flower "  is  not  a  Tigridia,  but  Phila- 
callis  plumbea. 

THE  DAHLIA.  This  once  popular  flower  is  fast  falling 
into  unpopularity,  and  will  soon  be  consigned  to  oblivion. 
It  has  seen  its  best  days,  and  has  been  compelled  to  give 
place  to  the  Gladiolus,  Hollyhock,  and  Double  Zinnia. 
It  is  hard  to  find  what  could  have  given  the  Dahlia  its 
popularity.  It  has  no  grace  of  growth  or  flower,  is  a  coarse, 
rank-growing  and  smelling  plant,  and  beyond  a  certain 
mechanical  rosette  arrangement  of  petal,  has  nothing  to 
recommend  it.  Its  culture  is  simple.  Set  the  tubers  in 
any  rich,  deep  soil,  and  if  the  plants  are  not  beaten  down 
by  high  winds,  and  the  season  is  long,  and  no  early  frosts 


380   HARDY  AND  HALF-HARDY  GARDEN  BULBS. 

occur,  you  will  have  flowers  enough.     Preserve  the  tubers 
in  a  dry,  frost-proof  cellar  during  the  winter. 

We  cannot,  when  there  are  so  many  beautiful  flowers, 
recommend  any  one  to  fill  the  garden  with  dahlias,  but  as 
some  may  fancy  them,  we  give  a  list  of  a  few  of  the  best. 

Baron  Alderson.     Buff,  white  tip.  Mrs.  Charles  Kean.  Yellow,  tipped 
Fanny    Keynes.       Straw,    crimson        with  white. 

edge.  Dandy.     Blush,  crimson,  maroon. 

Bessie.     Clear  yellow.  Lady  Popham.     Blush  white. 

Queen  of  Whites.    Pure  white.  Peerless.    Yellow. 

Mont  Blanc.    Pure  white.  Admiral  Stopford.     Dark  maroon. 

Lollipop.    Buff  and  salmon.  Lady  Franklin.     Deep  buff. 

Loveliness.   White,  tipped  with  pur-  Vesta.    Pure  white. 

Ple<  Preeminent.    Dark  purple. 

Pioneer.    Crimson.  Goldfinder.     Deep  yellow. 

Miss  Vyse.    White  and  purple.  Lady  Paxton.  Crimson,  white  tip. 

Dwarf   Varieties. 

Cupid.    White,  tipped  with  claret.        Golden  Ball.    Deep  yellow. 
Zelinda.    Purple.  Alba  Floribimda  Nana.    White. 

Captain  Ingraham.     Dark  crimson.     Victor  Hugo.     Crimson. 

Of    Gladiolus,    Tube    Roses,    and    Amaryllis,    we    have 
treated  fully  in  former  chapters. 


CHAPTER     XXVI. 

i 

SPRING    FLOWERS,  AND   WHERE   TO   FIND   THEM, 

WE  have  promised  to  lead  the  reader  into  the  woods 
and  fields,  there  to  gather  the  rich  blossoms  which 
Nature  scatters  freely;  which  grow  and  bloom  with  no  care 
from  the  hand   of  man,   and   often,  in   beauty,  grace,  and 

(381) 


382  SPRING   FLOWERS,    AND 

fragrance,  surpass  the  most  gorgeous  inmates  of  our  gar- 
dens. Scarcely  have  the  March  snows  forsaken  the  sunny 
forest  nooks,  when  the  chilly  winds  are  redolent  with  a 
strange  perfume ;  it  is  unlike  any  other,  —  peculiar,  — 
and  calls  up  balmy  memories  of  spring,  and  buds,  and 
flowers. 

Whence  comes  it  ?  The  maples  are  still  dark  and  gray, 
in  their  winter's  sleep  ;  not  a  crimson  bud  has  yet  dared 
to  peep  forth ;  and  the  willows,  though  glistening  in  the 
sunlight  with  their  peculiar  spring  color  (if  we  may  so 
speak),  still  keep  the  downy  catkins  folded  away  beneath 
the  sheathing  bracts.  Search  the  woods  around,  and  if 
a  stranger  to  woodland  mysteries,  if  you  have  not  that 
hidden  sympathy  with  Nature  which  draws  you  to  the 
flowers,  your  labor  will  be  in  vain.  But  brush  away 
the  fallen  leaves,  which  have  so  tenderly  warmed  the 
earth  during  the  long  cold  nights ;  see,  amid  tufts  of 
rough  roundish  leaves,  some  dark  green,  some  brown, 
disfigured,  a  blossom  which  seems  delicately  fashioned 
by  fairy  fingers,  or  a  gem  from  Flora's  own  diadem. 
Gather  it  carefully  ;  it  is  the  first  flower  of  spring,  the 
promise  of  the  year,  a  token  of  sunny  days  and  leafy 
woods,  of  balmy  winds  and  smiling  skies.  The  botanist 


WHERE   TO    FIND   THEM.  383 

will  call  it  Epigcea  repens ;  some,  the  Trailing  Arbutus, 
and  Ground  Laurel,  and  others,  again,  Mayflower, — and 
all  are  right.  We  have  no  patience  with  the  pedantry 
which  would  supplant  our  old-fashioned  names,  homely 
though  they  be,  by  learned  Latinisms  or  musty  Greek ; 
though  in  this  case  the  botanical  name,  signifying  creep- 
ing upon  the  earth,  is  peculiarly  significant.  The  plant  is 
low-growing,  hardly  attaining  the  dignity  of  a  shrub  ;  it  is 
covered  with  rusty  hairs,  has  evergreen  leaves,  rounded  and 
heart-shaped,  alternate  :  the  flowers  are  rosy  red  or  white. 
It  is  found  in  sandy  soils,  sometimes  in  rocky  situations, 
especially  in  the  shade  of  pines. 

We  have  never  known  this  plant  to  succeed  well  in 
cultivation,  though  doubtless  it  could  be  easily  grown 
with  slight  attention;  certainly  its  beauty  merits  every 
endeavor.  In  England  it  is  valued,  and  found  in  the 
catalogues  of  nurserymen.  A  fine  variety  has  been  ori- 
ginated, called  E.  rubicunda,  the  flowers  of  which  are 
larger  than  those  of  the  species,  of  a  rich  pink,  and  the 
plant  is  quite  hardy. 

The  Epigaea  is  found  from  Nova  Scotia  to  the  Carolinas ; 
there  is  but  one  species,  —  the  one  above  described. 

Almost   as    early  as    the    Epiga?a,  on    the   sunny  hills, 


384  SPUING   FLOWERS,   AND 

open  the  azure  blossoms  of  the  Hepatioa,  a  pretty  and 
favorite  flower,  always  a  welcome  guest,  and  the  next 
herald  sent  by  approaching  Spring  to  announce  her  ad- 
vent. On  a  bright  sunny  day,  what  can  be  more  lovely 
than  a  tuft  of  these  beautiful  harbingers  of  spring,  gazing 
with  open  eyes  to  the  heavens ! 

"Blue,  blue  as  if  the  sky  let  fall 
A  flower  from  its  cerulean  wall." 

The  wild  varieties  are  found  of  every  shade,  from  a 
deep  blue  to  pure  white ;  the  former  are  the  most  com- 
mon ;  we  also  find  shades  of  pink  and  purple.  There 
are  two  varieties,  distinguished  by  the  shape  of  the 
leaves,  and  named  respectively,  H.  triloba  and  H.  acuti- 
loba,  of  which  the  latter  is  the  rarer  ;  the  two  varieties 
sometimes  run  into  each  other.  The  common  names  are 
Liver-leaf,  so  called  from  the  fancied  resemblance  of  the 
leaves  to  the  liver,  and  far  prettier,  Squirrel-cups.  It  is 
a  delicate  plant,  the  flowers  always  appearing  before  the 
new  foliage,  and  pushing  up  in  great  numbers  among 
the  old  leaves.  The  leaves  are  heart-shaped  at  the  base, 
and  divided  into  three  or  five  entire  lobes.  This  flower 
has  been  much  improved  by  cultivation  ;  we  have  spoken 
at  length,  in  a  previous  chapter,  of  the  double  red  va- 


WHERE  TO   FIND   THEM.  385 

riety,  which  is  a  perfect  gem  of  beauty;  the  double 
blue  is  very  common  in  England,  and  is  very  desirable ; 
the  double  white  is  very  rare  in  England,  if,  indeed,  it 
be  not  lost  from  cultivation. 

Next,  as  the  spring  advances,  we  find  the  dry  hills 
and  pastures  covered  with  the  common  Mouse-ear  (Gna- 
phalium  plantagineuni).  It  is  a  plant  of  little  beauty  to 
the  naked  eye  (though  it  develops  finely  under  the  mi- 
croscope), exhaling  a  rich  spring  fragrance.  At  seasons 
when  flowers  are  more  plentiful  it  would  be  passed  by 
unnoticed,  but  in  spring  it  is  cherished  as  an  added 
promise  of  sunny  days. 

The  barren  and  fertile  florets  are  on  separate  plants ; 
the  former  are  white,  with  revolute  segments  and  brown 
anthers  ;  the  latter  are  cylindrical. 

The  warm  sun  soon  calls  out,  on  the  dry,  rocky  hills, 
the  early  Saxifrage  (Saxifraga  vernalis).  The  flowers  are 
white,  crowded,  arranged-  in  corymbed  panicles,  and  ex- 
hale a  pleasant  fragrance. 

The    leaves    are    radical,    spreading    upon    the    ground, 
producing  the  flower-stalk   or  stalks   from  the  centre.     It 
is  a  pretty  flower,  a  favorite  of  children,  and  we  always 
welcome  its  advent. 
33 


386  SPRING    FLOWERS,    AND 

And  now,  as  the  days  lengthen  and  the  sun  gains 
power,  as  May-day  has  come  and  passed,  the  woods  and 
hill-sides  bloom  with  countless  blossoms.  The  grass,  tak- 
ing an  early  start,  has  thrown  up  long  green  spires,  and 
the  hill-side  grasses  are  already  in  bloom,  and  waving  in 
the  wind  their  delicate  pollen- clad  antlers.  In  the  woods 
spring  has  come;  the  maple  is  lifting  a  censer  of  blos- 
soms, the  willows  by  the  stream  are  yellow  with  bloom ; 
the  poplars  begin  to  expand  their  delicate  green  foliage, 
and  the  elms  have  already  dropped  their  brownish-red 
blossoms,  and  hang  with  their  greenish  seed-vessels, 
among  which  the  shootings  of  the  tender  leaf  may  be 
perceived.  Myriads  of  birds  make  vocal  all  the  forest 
aisles,  and  each  woodland  path  is  carpeted  with  flowers. 
From  so  many  candidates  for  our  favor,  which  or  what 
shall  we  choose  ? 

In  the  woods  grow  the  Anemones,  and  peep  from 
their  borders  at  the  violets,  which  make  blue  the  fields 
beyond.  Therefore  let  Anemones  and  Violets  be  our 
choice,  —  flowers  loved  and  welcomed  by  all. 

How  many  associations  cling  around  the  VIOLET  !  What 
pleasing  recollections  it  recalls  !  Who  is  there  that  does 
not  love  it  ?  It  is  a  modest  flower,  never  obtruding 


WHERE   TO    FIND   THEM.  387 

itself  upon  us,  except  when  its  numbers  make  all  the 
hill-sides  blue,  when  he  must  be  blind  indeed,  and  insen- 
sible to  floral  beauties,  who  fails  to  notice  it.  About 
twenty  species  are  natives  of  the  northern  United  States, 
of  which  about  thirteen  are  found  in  New  England. 
The  colors  are  white,  blue,  and  purple,  in  various  shades, 
and  yellow.  Those  most  commonly  met  with  are, — 

Viola  lanceolata  (Lance-leaved  Violet).  This  is  one  of 
our  most  common  species ;  petals  white,  the  lower  ones 
slightly  veined  with  lilac  ;  it  is  generally  found  in  meadows. 

Viola  llanda.  Very  nearly  resembling  the  last,  and 
often  running  into  it ;  the  leaves  are  roundish  instead 
of  lanceolate,  and  the  flowers  more  fragrant ;  color  white. 
Between  this  and  the  last  almost  every  variety  of  leaf 
occurs. 

Viola  acuta,  or  primulcefolia  seems  to  be  intermedi- 
ate between  the  last  two ;  the  flowers  are  white  and 
small.  A  native  of  damp  meadows. 

Viola  cucullata  (Common  Blue  Violet).  Too  well 
known  to  need  description ;  the  flowers  vary  much  in 
size  and  color,  being  deep  or  pale  purple,  nearly  white, 
or  variegated  with  white.  Common  in  damp  grounds. 

Viola  palmata  seems  only  to  be  a  fine  variety  of  the  last. 


388 


Viola  sagittata.  This  is  our  most  common  violet ;  it 
varies  much  according  to  the  situation  and  soil  in  which 
it  grows,  and  has  been  described  under  various  names. 
In  damp  places  its  flowers  are  pale  blue  and  large ;  on 
dry  hills,  where  it  is  very  common  ( F.  ovata),  the  flow- 
ers are  pale  purple  and  very  numerous. 

Viola  pedata.  Our  finest  species^  easily  distinguished 
by  its  pedate,  fine-cut  leaves,  and  its  large  handsome 
pale  or  deep  purple  flowers  with  orange  centre.  It  is  a 
native  of  sandy  or  gravelly  soils,  flowering  about  a  week 
later  than  the  common  blue  violets.  The  upper  petals 
are  sometimes  deep  violet  and  velvety  like  a  pansy. 

Though  the  Violet  has  always  been  the  emblem  of  mod- 
esty, and  is  ever  a  favorite,  to  us  the  simple,  blushing  wood 
ANEMONE  is  the  fairest  of  the  woodland  flowers. 

There  are  few  which  excel  it  in  delicate  grace  and 
beauty.  The  foliage  is  most  ornamental,  and  the  tintings 
of  the  blossom  most  exquisite.  The  colors  vary  according 
to  the  situation  where  it  blooms ;  in  the  shade,  being  deep, 
rosy,  or  light  pink-purple,  in  its  many  shades ;  in  the  sun, 
pure  white,  or  delicately  flushed  with  rose.  We  speak  now 
only  of  the  common  Wood  Anemone  ;  the  other  species, 
which  loves  the  sunlight  better,  is  usually  pure  white,  very 


WHERE   TO    FIND   THEM.  389 

rarely  showing  tintings  of  pink.  These  two  species  are 
found  in  almost  every  locality  ;  in  deep,  low  woods,  or 
rocky  pastures,  often  fringing  the  edge  of  the  forest  with 
their  delicate  blossoms,  or  clinging  to  the  sides  of  shady 
rocks.  As  the  woods  are  cut  away,  and  the  underbrush 
cleared  up,  the  anemones  gradually  disappear,  the  rue-leaved 
lingering  the  longer.  The  common  species  are,  — 

Anemone  nemorosa  (Wood  Anemone).  Root,  creeping  ; 
stem  erect,  supporting  a  single  flower  above  a  whorl  of  com- 
pound leaves.  The  flower  consists  of  five  petals.  By  cul- 
tivatiori  the  stamens  have  been  converted  into  petals,  and  a 
double  variety  produced.  It  is  very  handsome  and  orna- 
mental, though  lacking  the  simple  grace  and  beauty  of  the 
single  form.  The  Anemone  succeeds  well  in  cultivation  if 
the  exposure  is  not  too  sunny. 

Anemone  tkalictroides,  or  Hue-leaved  Anemone,  called 
by  later  botanists  Thalictrum  anemonoides.  A  very  pretty 
plant,  distinguished  from  the  last  by  its  tuberous  root  and 
the  number  of  flowers,  which  vary  from  one  to  fifteen.  The 
stem  bears  two  or  three  leaves  at  the  very  summit,  like 
those  from  the  root  (which  are  compound,  usually  three 
times  ternate),  but  without  the  common  petiole,  so  that 
they  seem  like  a  whorl  of  long- stalked,  simple  leaves. 
33* 


390  SPRING   FLOWERS,    AND 

Pistils,  several  in  a  little  head,  tipped  in  a  flat  stigma. 
This  is  a  variable  plant ;  scarce  two  individuals  are  found 
alike ;  in  its  wild  state  it  is  inclined  to  sport,  and  is  some- 
times found  double.  It  is  like  the  last  perennial,  and  very 
ornamental,  though  lacking  in  graceful  beauty. 

Spangling  the  pastures  and  rocky  hill,  in  pleasing  con- 
trast with  the  saxifrage  and  violets,  we  find  the  pretty  yel- 
low blossoms  of  the  early  Potentilla  (P.  sarmentosa).  It  is 
a  delicate  species,  blooming  abundantly  in  April  and  May. 
In  early  spring  the  flower  stems  are  very  short,  but,  as  they 
continue  blooming,  lengthen  out  often  a  foot  or  more,  run- 
ning along  the  ground,  and  rooting  at  the  joints.  The 
leaves  are  quinate,  and  resemble  slightly  those  of  the  straw- 
berry, to  which  the  family  is  nearly  related. 

There  are  several  other  species  of  Potentilla,  which 
bloom  during  the  latter  part  of  spring,  or  in  the  summer, 
some  of  which  are  quite  ornamental.  We  have  in  cultiva- 
tion Potentilla,  floribunda  and  arguta,  both  of  which  are 
pretty  additions  to  our  bed  of  herbaceous  plants.  Some  of 
the  cultivated  varieties  are  very  fine,  the  flowers  being  all 
shades  of  orange,  white,  rose,  pink,  red,  scarlet,  and  crim- 
son. Two  of  the  hardiest  and  most  desirable  are  P.  for' 
mosa  and  atrosanguinea. 


WHERE   TO    FIND   THEM.  391 

The  Houstonia  is  a  pleasing,  simple  little  spring  flower, 
in  some  localities  so  abundant  as  to  whiten  the  ground. 
With  us  it  is  a  favorite  flower  ;  the  delicacy  of  the  bud  and 
flower  is  very  marked,  and  the  soft  pearl-colored  petals  form 
a  pleasing  contrast  with  the  pale  yellow  eye. 

The  common  species  is  H.  coerulea,  or,  according  to  Gray, 
Oldenlandia  coerulea.  It  flowers  in  May  and  later,  and. is 
too  well  known  to  need  description  (often  called  Eye-bright). 

While  the  hills  are  spangled  with  violets  and  potentilla, 
and  the  woods  are  gay  with  anemones,  the  low  grounds 
are  ornamented  with  the  yellow  blossoms  of  the  Water-cress 
or  Cowslip  (Caltha  palustris).  The  flower  bears  some  re- 
semblance to  the  common  butter-cup,  but  is  larger,  and  has 
the  petals  more  spreading.  It  is  a  low-growing  plant,  of 
frequent  occurrence  on  the  banks  of  low  streams  or  ditches, 
or  growing  in  conspicuous  clumps  in  very  marshy  ground. 
Wre  have  never  cultivated  ft,  because  it  is  so  plenty  near  us 
in  its  wild  state ;  we  have,  however,  no  doubt  that  it  could 
be  localized  to  drier  spots,  without  diminishing  the  size  or 
detracting  from  the  color  of  the  flower.  To  those  who 
cannot  obtain  it  in  a  wild  state,  it  would  well  be  worthy  of 
cultivation,  and  be  a  great  addition  to  the  flower  border  in 
early  spring.  It  rrpens  seed  freely,  and  in  a  few  years,  from 
a  single  plant,  will  spread  over  a  \vliole  meadow. 


892 


In  this  plant  the  bright  yellow  leaves  composing  the 
flower  are  not  petals,  but  sepals  ;  the  pistils  are  five  to  ten. 
Leaves  round  or  kidney-shaped,  crenate  or  entire  ;  sepals 
six.  The  plant  is  used  as  "  greens,"  or  salad,  in  early 
spring,  and  sold  in  the  markets  under  the  name  of  Cowslips. 
Both  this  name,  and  the  equally  common  one  of  Water- 
cress, are  obviously  incorrect ;  the  cowslip  is  a  species  of 
primrose,  and  the  water-cress  a  species  of  nasturtium,  a 
cruciferous  plant.  A  better  name  for  those  who  abhor 
Latin,  is  Marsh  Marigold. 

There  is  a  double  variety  which  we  have  in  our  garden, 
a  very  ornamental  plant.  The  flowers,  except  in  size,  re- 
semble the  double  buttercup,  and  like  that  plant  often  have 
a  green  centre.  It  blooms  in  May,  about  the  time  the  sin- 
gle variety  expands  in  the  meadows,  and  continues  some 
weeks.  It  docs  well  with  us  in  dry  soil,  and  is  perfectly 
hardy.  It  may  be  obtained  of  florists,  but  is  not  common. 

Early  in  May  the  rocky  hills  are  decked  with  the  delicate 
and  graceful  blossoms  of  the  Wild  Columbine  (Aquilegia 
Canadensis).  The  flower  is  to  well  known  to  need  descrip- 
tion. It  is  a  hardy  perennial,  loving  shady,  rocky  clefts, 
and  clinging,  with  its  slender  roots,  in  almost  inaccessible 
places.  The  flowers  are  very  graceful  and  nodding;  in 
fruit  the  stalk  becomes  upright. 


WHERE  TO   FIND   THEM.  393 

Till  within  a  few  years  the  scarlet  of  this  species  had 
never  been  obtained  in  varieties  of  the  common  garden 
columbine  (A.  vulgaris  of  Europe).  Latterly,  however, 
some  new  species,  and  many  new  varieties,  some  of  great 

merit,  have  been  obtained,  in  some  of  which  we  find  the 

• 
peculiar    scarlet   of   the    wild    columbine.      This    plant    is 

greatly  improved  by  cultivation.  The  stool  increases  in 
size  every  year,  and  gives  a  profusion  of  flowers.  We  have 
seen  a  single  plant  over  a  foot  in  diameter,  supporting  hun- 
dreds of  flowers.  In  cultivation  it  seems  to  prefer  a  rich 
loam. 

A  companion  of  the  Anemone  nemorosa  is  the  pretty  Bell- 
wort,  or  Straw  Flower  ( Uvular ia  sessili/olia).  For  delicate 
grace  it  is  not  surpassed  by  any  of  the  spring  flowers. 
Leaves,  oval  or  lanceolate,  oblong,  pale,  glaucous  under- 
neath ;  height  from  six  to  nine  inches  ;  flower,  cream  or 
straw-colored,  three  fourths  of  an  inch  long.  Easily  culti- 
vated and  very  pretty. 

Uvularia  (jrandiflora  is  a  beautiful  species,  with  yellow 
flowers.  With  us,  in  cultivation  it  is  a  conspicuous  orna- 
ment of  the  flower  border  in  May  and  June.  Flowers  more 
than  an  inch  long.  A  native  of  rich  woods. 

U.  perfoliata  resembles  the  last,  but  is  a  smaller  plant ; 
succeeds  well  in  cultivation. 


394  SPRING   FLOWERS,    AND 

The  Convallaria^  or  Solomon's  Seal,  is  a  well  known  hab- 
itant of  our  woods  ;  the  little  dwarf  species,  or  false  Solo- 
mon's Seal,  in  some  localities  fairly  carpeting  the  ground 
with  its  light  green,  glossy  leaves,  and  perfuming  the  air 
with  the  spicy  fragrance  of  its  starry  flowers. 

All  the  species  love  a  damp,  shady  locality,  but  Avill 
flourish  in  almost  any  good  rich  soil.  They  are  all  plants 
of  easy  culture,  and  improve  greatly  in  cultivation ;  plants 
not  unfrequently  attaining  twice  the  size  of  those  in  the 
wild  state.  All  love  a  rich  soil,  and  will  bear  very  high 
manuring.  We  have  grown  them  to  great  perfection  in  a 
deep  bed  of  well-rotted  manure  and  leaf  mould. 

There  have  been  some  changes  latterly  made  in  this 
genus,  all  the  plants  commonly  known  as  Convallaria 
being  transferred  to  Polygonatum  and  Smilacina,  except 
C.  majalis,  the  well  known  Lily  of  the  Valley,  which  is 
a  native  of  this  country  and  Europe,  being  found  in  the 
high  Alleghanies  of  Virginia  and  southward. 

Convallaria  biflora  (Smilacina  bifolia).  Our  common 
low  growing  species,  abundant  in  .most  situations.  Flow- 
ers white  and  fragrant,  in  a  short,  erect  cluster ;  berries 
white  or  spotted  when  unripe,  scarlet  when  ripe.  In 
bloom  about  the  first  of  June. 


WHERE   TO    FIND   THEM.  395 

C.  trifolia  (Smilacina  trifolia).  Stem  with  three  al- 
ternate leaves,  oblong,  lanceolate  ;  spike  of  flowers  erect, 
terminal.  Native  of  cold  bogs.  Berries  red. 

C.  stellata  (Smilacina  stellata).  Stem  clothed  with  from 
seven  to  twelve  oblong,  lanceolate  leaves,  downy  when 
young ;  growing  from  ten  to  twelve  inches  high.  Raceme 
terminal,  consisting  of  a  few  white  flowers,  with  six  ob- 
long petals  and  six  stamens.  Berries  blackish. 

C.  racemosa  (Smilacina  racemosd).  A  common  plant 
in  moist,  shady  situations.  Stem  two  feet  high.  Leaves 
alternate,  nearly  sessile,  oval  acuminate.  Stem  terminat- 
ing in  a  compound  raceme  of  white  flowers  on  peduncles, 
usually  of  the  same  color.  Berries  pale  red,  sprinkled 
with  purple.  Blooms  in  June. 

Convallaria  (Polygonatum)  biflorum.  Stem  two  feet 
high,  smooth,  round,  simple,  nodding  at  top.  Leaves 
alternate,  oval,  nerved,  pubescent,  pale  green.  Flower- 
stalks  axillary,  drooping,  branched,  supporting  one,  two, 
or  more  pendulous,  pale  green,  fragrant  flowers.  A  very 
pretty  and  not  uncommon  species.  Native  of  shady 
woods  and  hills,  about  old  walls  and  fences. 

C.  caniculata  (Polygonatum  giganteum).  A  very  tall 
species,  somewhat  resembling  the  last,  but  distinguished 


396 


by  its  size  and  angular  stalk.  Stem  three  to  six  feet, 
very  stout ;  peduncles  two  to  eight  flowered.  A  native 
of  woods  and  river  banks,  in  alluvial  soil.  As  remarked 
by  Professor  Gray,  the  stem  is  not  channelled  in  the  liv- 
ing plant,  so  the  popular  name  of  "caniculata"  seems 
inappropriate. 

Our  common  species  of  Corydalis.  are  pretty,  early  flow- 
ering plants ;  natives  of  woods  and  rocky  hills.  They 
succeed  well  in  the  garden,  and  improve  in  size  and 
color.  They  are  nearly  allied  to  the  well-known  Diely- 
tra  spectabilis,  in  our  opinion  the  finest  herbaceous  plant 
of  recent  introduction,  which  is  alike  valuable  for  its 
hardiness  and  the  beauty  of  its  flowers  and  foliage.  The 
plants  comprised  under  the  name  of  Corydalis,  have  been 
given  to  various  classes,  and  have  many  synonymes  ;  all 
belong,  however,  to  the  natural  order  Fumariacce,  and  to 
the  classes  AdlurrtUL,  Dicentra,  Corydalis,  and  Fumaria. 

Corydalis  fungosa  (Adlumia  cirrhosa).  A  pretty  climb- 
ing species,  common  to  gardens,  and  known  as  Mountain 
Fringe.  The  plant  attains  the  height  of  fifteen  feet,  climb- 
ing by  means  of  the  tendril-like  young  leaf-stalks ;  foliage 
very  delicate  ;  flowers,  pale  flesh  color,  in  axillary  racemes. 
Native  of  damp  woods. 


WHERE   TO    FIND   THEM.  397 

Corydalis  (Dicentra)  cucularia  (Dutchman's  Breeches). 
A  very  delicate  plant,  bearing  fine-cut  leaves,  and  a 
scape  of  about  half  a  dozen  white  flowers,  tipped  with 
yellow.  Root,  a  collection  of  small  solid  tubers,  enclosed 
in  a  common  scaly  sheath.  A  native  of  rich  woods, 
blooming  in  May  or  later.  Rare  in  New  England.  A 
very  curious  and  ornamental  plant. 

Corydalis  (Dicentra)  Canadensis  (Squirrel  Corn).  A 
pretty  species,  native  of  rich  woods.  Name  given  on 
account  of  the  round,  scattered,  yellow  tubers,  which 
resemble  grains  of  corn.  Flowers  greenish  white,  tinged 
with  red,  with  the  fragrance  of  hyacinths.  A  pretty  plant. 

Corydalis  (Dicentra)  eximia  is  a  fine,  large  species, 
with  reddish-purple  flowers,  resembling  the  Dielytra.  In 
its  wild  state  it  is  not,  to  our  knowledge,  found  in  New 
England,  but  is  not  uncommon  in  gardens.  As  an  orna- 
mental plant  it  is  most  desirable,  and  increases  rapidly 
in  rich  soil. 

Corydalis  aurea.  A  very  glaucous  plant,  native  of 
rocky  banks ;  flowers  golden  yellow,  very  showy ;  the 
richness  of  the  color  depends,  however,  on  the  location 
of  the  plant.  The  plant,  unlike  all  above  described  (ex- 
cept C.  fungosa),  is  biennial,  and  is  often  lost  to  culti- 
34 


398  SPRING    FLOWERS,    AND 

vation  by  neglecting  to  save  the  seed,  and  plant  every 
year.  A  rich,  moist,  partially  shaded  border  is  very 
favorable  for  the  growth  of  this  beautiful  plant. 

Corydalis  glauca.  Much  more  common  than  the  last, 
and  less  showy.  Like  it  a  biennial,  blooming  from  early 
May  to  July.  It  is  a  delicate  plant,  of  a  smooth,  glau- 
cous appearance.  Flowers  whitish,  shaded  with  flesh 
color,  and  yellow  in  panicled  racemes.  A  native  of 
rocky  hills,  often  found  in  the  shallow  deposit  of  soil 
on  large  rocks,  where  it  blooms  very  early,  owing  to  the 
reflected  heat  from  the  rock.  It  flourishes  well  with  us 
in  common  garden  soil. 

Sanguinaria  Canadensis,  or  Bloodroot,  is  well  known 
as  one  of  our  earliest  spring  flowers.  The  flowers  and 
leaf  proceed  from  the  end  of  a  fleshy  root,  and  all, 
on  being  wounded,  emit  a  bright  orange-red  juice.  We 
copy  a  good  description  of  the  root :  "  The  bud^  or 
hybernaculum  which  terminates  the  root  is  composed  of 
successive  scales  or  sheaths,  the  last  of  which  acquires 
considerable  size  as  the  plant  springs  up.  By  dissecting 
this  bud  in  the  summer  or  autumn,  we  may  discover  the 
embryo  leaf  and  flower  of  the  succeeding  spring,  and 
with  a  common  magnifier  even  the  stamens  may  be 


WHERE   TO    FIND   THEM.  399 

counted."  The  calyx  consists  of  two  concave,  ovate,  ob- 
tuse leaves,  which  are  perfect  in  the  bud,  but  fall  off 
when  the  corolla  expands.  Petals  eight  or  more.  Seeds 
very  numerous,  dark  shining  red,  with  conspicuous  white 
crest.  The  leaves  grow  during  the  summer,  attaining  a 
large  size,  so  as  to  appear  like  a  different  plant.  Flow- 
ers white,  very  handsome,  contrasting  beautifully  with 
the  golden  yellow  stamens.  This  plant  increases  in  size 
in  cultivation,  and  the  flowers  show  a  tendency  to  be- 
come double.  It  ripens  seed  freely. 

The  common  Buttercups,  which  from  May  to  August 
are  so  conspicuous  in  the  fields,  belong  to  the  natural 
family  Rammculacece ;  they  are  generally  plants  with  white 
or  yellow  flowers,  annuals  or  perennials,  with  usually  soli- 
tary flowers.  The  fresh  juice  of  all  the  species  is  acrid, 
in  some  so  much  so  as  to  raise  blisters  ;  the  plants  are, 
on  account  of  this  property,  avoided  by  cattle ;  but  in 
drying,  this  acrid  property  disappears,  so  the  plants  are 
not  as  injurious  to  mowing  as  to  pasture  lands ;  even, 
however,  in  the  former,  Buttercups  are  not  regarded  by 
farmers  as  acquisitions,  and  the  plant  is  far  more  popu- 
lar with  children  than  with  agriculturists.  There  are  about 
twenty  species  in  the  northern  United  States,  some  of 


400  SPRING    FLOWERS,    AND 

which  are  water  plants.  To  describe,  or  even  to  name 
all  these,  would  exceed  the  limits  of  our  pages ;  we 
will  only  mention  those  which  are  called  by  the  general 
name  of  Buttercups. 

Ranunculus  fascicularis.  A  low  growing  species,  bloom- 
ing on  rocky  hills  in  April  and  May.  Perennial.  Flow- 
ers yellow,  about  an  inch  broad. 

Ranunculus  repens.  Flowers  as  large  or  larger  than 
the  last.  The  plant  sends  out  long  runners,  by  which  it 
is  easy  to  distinguish  it  from  the  other  species,  but  in 
spring  it  often  flowers  from  upright  stems.  Very  variable 
in  size  and  foliage. 

Ranunculus  bulbosus.  The  most  common  species  in 
eastern  New  England,  seldom  found  in  the  interior  (Gray). 
Root  solid,  fleshy,  acrid.  Stem  erect,  leafy.  Flower  com- 
posed of  six  or  seven  petals,  of  a  bright,  glossy  yellow. 

Ranunculus  acris.  A  taller  species  than  the  last ; 
flower  nearly  as  large,  but  not  so  bright  a  color.  This 
and  the  last  are  those  most  commonly  met  with  in  pas- 
ture and  mowing  lands.  The  Double  Buttercup  is  common 
in  our  gardens,  and  very  ornamental.  There  appear  to 
be  two  species,  the  one  a  low  growing,  running  plant, 
which  often  increases  so  rapidly  as  to  almost  become  a 


WHERE   TO    FIND   THEM.  401 

weed,  the  other  tall  growing,  and  only  increased  by 
division.  The  latter  is  by  far  the '  most  desirable,  the 
former  often  proving  a  troublesome  favorite.  The  Double 
White  Buttercup  (Ranunculus  aconitifolius),  or  "  Fair 
Maids  of  France,"  is  very  rare.  It  is  a  beautiful  little 
flower,  very  double,  pure  white,  and  the  foliage  is  re- 
markably pretty.  It  is,  however,  very  liable  to  be  winter- 
killed. 

It  has  often  been  a  question  with  us  whether  we  have  a 
more  beautiful  wild  flower  than  the  common  and  much 
despised  Dandelion  (Taraxacum  dens  leonis).  The  foliage 
of  pinnatifid  or  runcinate  radical  leaves,  is  very  pretty,  and 
of  a  pleasing  green ;  the  yellow  flowers  are  of  elegant  form 
and  pleasant  fragrance ;  the  single  florets,  when  examined 
through  a  microscope,  are  of  singular  beauty ;  the  globular 
head  of  seeds  is  very  ornamental.  If  this  flower  was  now 
first  introduced  from  some  distant  country,  the  whole  flori- 
cultural  world  would  go  into  ecstasies  over  its  beauty  ;  but 
as  it  is  common,  it  is  despised,  and  we  say,  in  scorn,  "  only 
a  dandelion."  We  do  not  hope  to  induce  any  to  cultivate 
the  Dandelion  (to  observe  its  beauties  this  is  not  necessary), 
but  if  any  will  give  closer  heed  to  the  beauties  of  the  plant, 
and  observe  with  what  lavish  hand  the  great  Creator  has 
34* 


402  SPRING    FLOWERS,   AND 

endowed  it,  our  purpose  in  including  the  Dandelion  in  our 
catalogue  of  spring  flowers  will  be  answered. 

The  early  Meadow  Rue  (Thalictrum  dioicum)  is  con- 
spicuous on  hills  and  in  rocky  woods  in  April  and  May. 
The  flowers  are  greenish,  with  yellow  anthers,  and  are 
noticeable  for  blooming  so  early  in  the  spring  ;  the 
foliage  is  very  delicate.  The  white  flowers  of  the  larger 
species  (Thalictrum  cornutum,  or  corynelluni),  are  very  or- 
namental in  meadows  in  June  and  July.  The  foliage  is 
ornamental,  and  for  this  reason  both  of  these  plants  would 
be  additions  to  the  flower  border.  They  are  too  common 
and  too  well  known  to  need  further  description. 

TRILLIUM.  A  strikingly  beautiful  plant  is  the  Trillium, 
in  all  its  species.  It  is  a  gem  among  spring  flowers,  but  is 
rarely  met  with  in  gardens,  and  is  not  common  in  the  woods 
and  swamps.  It  seems  to  delight  in  old  woods,  and  locali- 
ties where  the  axe  of  the  woodman  has  never  found  its 
way,  but  where  the  old,  moss-hung  trees  still  maintain  the 
grandeur  of  the  primeval  forest.  In  such  situations  the 
Trillium  is  at  home.  In  early  spring,  the  stem  pushes  up 
from  the  short,  tuber-like  root,  bearing  at  the  top  three 
large,  broad,  ovate  leaves,  and  a  terminal  flower.  The  plant 
delights  in  shade  and  moisture,  and  the  root  is  commonly 


WHERE  TO   FIND   THEM.  403 

found  deep  in  the  peaty  turf  or  moss.  In  congenial  situa- 
tions, the  leaves  and  flower  are  very  large,  and  the  whole 
plant  has  a  somewhat  rank  appearance  ;  but  in  drier  soils, 
the  growth  is  less  rapid,  and  the  plant,  though  less  vigor- 
ous, is  more  sturdy.  After  the  fall  of  the  flower,  the  plant 
bears  a  large,  six-sided,  purple  or  red  berry,  which  is  very 
ornamental.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  Latin  triplex, 
triple,  all  the  parts  being  in  threes ;  leaves,  petals,  and 
sepals,  all  three,  though  monstrosities,  sometimes  occur. 
The  plants  are  of  easy  culture,  if  planted  in  proper  soil 
and  transplanted  at  the  proper  season.  The  soil  should  be 
rich,  peaty  loam,  and  the  situation  moist,  for  in  sandy,  dry 
soil  the  plants  never  succeed. 

We  have  known  plants  to  flower  several  years  in  common 
garden  soil,  but  if  we  except  Trillium  erectum  and  grandi- 
florum,  which  sometimes  flourish  in  moist  loam,  all  the 
species  require  a  prepared  soil ;  a  rhododendron  or  azalea 
bed  is  well  suited  to  them. 

The  proper  time  for  transplanting  is  late  in  the  autumn, 
after  the  stem  has  died  down.  They  may  also  be  moved  in 
the  spring,  but  as  the  root  starts  so  early  in  the  season  the 
experiment  is  not  safe.  The  principal  species  are,  — 

Trillium  cernuum  (Nodding  Trillium).     This  is  the  most 


404 

common  variety  of  New  England,  and  the  least  ornamental 
of  the  genus.  Leaves,  three  large,  roundish,  or  rather 
rhomboidal  pointed ;  petals  white,  about  an  inch  long, 
reflexed  longer  than  the  sepals ;  the  flower  bends  down  so 
as  to  be  hidden  by  the  leaves.  A  native  of  moist,  shady 
thickets.  This  species  is  worthy  a  place  in  the  flower 
border,  and  succeeds  with  little  care ;  it  has  not  with  us, 
however,  increased  in  cultivation,  or  improved  in  size  or 
color. 

T.  erectum  (Purple  Trillium).  Leaves  nearly  as  broad 
as  long,  abruptly  pointed ;  petals  ovate,  flat,  spreading, 
broader,  but  not  much  longer  than  the  sepals ;  flowers 
dark  brownish-purple,  green  outside,  of  not  a  very  pleasant 
odor,  nodding  on  an  inclined  peduncle.  A  native  of  old, 
rich  woods.  Succeeds  and  increases  in  cultivation,  but  is 
not  desirable  for  a  bouquet  flower. 

T.  pictum,  or  erytlirocarpum  (Painted  Trillium).  A  very 
delicate  and  beautiful  species.  Leaves  ovate,  taper-pointed  ; 
petals  ovate,  or  ovate-lanceolate,  pointed,  wavy,  wide, 
spreading,  painted  with  purple  stripes  at  the  base,  almost 
twice  the  length  of  the  sepals,  and  shorter  than  the  pedun- 
cle (Gray).  This  lovely  species  is  difficult  to  cultivate. 
We  have  bloomed  it  in  the  border  for  three  successive 


WHERE  TO   FIND  THEM.  405 

years,  but  the  plants  dwindled  year  by  year,  and  finally 
disappeared.  The  trouble  appears  to  be  a  want  of  moisture. 
In  the  wild  state  the  plant  is  never  found  except  in  cold, 
damp  woods  and  bogs.  Could  this  requisite  be  supplied, 
we  see  no  reason  why  this  fine  plant  should  not  do  well ; 
certainly  from  its  beauty  it  merits  every  attention.  It  is 
not  a  common  species  in  New  England. 

T.  grand! florum.  This  species  is  the  largest  and  finest 
of  the  genus.  Leaves  longer  than  broad,  rhomboid,  ovate ; 
petals  obovate,  longer  and  broader  than  the  sepals,  spread- 
ing at  the  top  ;  color  pure  white,  turning  before  the  flower 
fades  to  dark  rose  color ;  flower  on  a  stem  about  two 
inches  long.  Petals  from  two  to  three  inches  long. 
Native  of  rich  woods  ;  not  uncommon  in  the  north  of 
New  England.  Berry  dark  purple.  This  fine  species  is 
of  the  easiest  cultivation.  The  soil,  if  rich  loam,  needs  no 
further  preparation ;  it  does  not  succeed  in  light,  sandy 
soil.  We  have  seen  it  bloomed  in  gardens  of  a  size  sur- 
passing that  of  the  wild  plant.  Plants  may  be  obtained  of 
some  of  our  florists,  but  the  easiest  way  is  to  obtain  them 
from  their  native  woods  in  the  proper  season. 

Our  other  native  species  are,  — 

T.    sessile.      Color   dark     and   dull    purple,   varying    to 


406  SPRING   FLOWERS,    AND 

greenish.  Native  of  moist  woods,  Pennsylvania  to  Wis- 
consin, and  southward. 

T.  recurvatum.  Color  dark  purple.  Native  of  Wiscon- 
sin, Illinois,  Kentucky,  and  southward. 

T.  erectum,  var.  album.  Petals  greenish-white,  rarely 
yellowish  ;  ovary  mostly  purple  (Gray).  Found  with  the 
species,  from  which  it  otherwise  does  not  differ,  especially 
from  New  York  westward. 

T.  nivale  (D \varf  White  Trillium).  Petals  white,  wavy. 
Native  of  rich  woods,  Ohio  to  Wisconsin. 

The  smooth,  shining,  evergreen  leaves  of  the  Goldthread 
(Coptis  trifolia),  are  very  conspicuous  in  wet  bogs  and  low 
woods  in  early  spring.  In  some  localities  they  fairly  carpet 
the  ground,  and  when  spangled  with  the  white  starry 
flowers  the  effect  is  very  pleasing.  The  plant  is  a  low- 
growing  perennial,  with  creeping  roots  of  a  golden  yellow 
color  (whence  the  name).  In  places  where  the  plant  is 
abundant,  they  run  through  the  dark  bog  earth  in  every 
direction,  appearing  not  unlike  threads  of  gold.  The  scape 
bears  one  small,  starry,  white  flower,  composed  of  five  to 
seven  club-shaped  petals ;  stamens  from  fifteen  to  twenty- 
five  ;  pistils  from  three  to  seven ;  seeds  numerous,  black, 
oval.  Blooms  from  middle  of  May  to  June. 


WHERE   TO   FIND   THEM.  407 

One  of  our  finest  native  plants  is  the  Erythroniimi 
Americanum,  commonly  called  Dog's-tooth  Violet,  though 
why  called  Violet  has  been  a  puzzle  to  botanists.  The 
plant  belongs  to  the  Lily  tribe,  and  is  the  smallest  of  the 
family.  Root  a  solid  scaly  bulb,  deep  in  the  ground,  white 
inside,  brown  outside.  Plant  smooth.  Leaves  elliptical, 
lanceolate,  pale  green,  dotted  or  clouded  with  irregular 
spots.  Flower  drooping,  solitary,  composed  of  six  pale 
yellow  petals,  dotted  near  the  base,  expanding  in  sunny 
weather.  The  rapidity  with  which  this  plant  exhales 
moisture  is  very  remarkable.  It  is  almost  impossible  to 
carry  it  any  distance  in  the  hand,  as  it  dries  and  fades  very 
rapidly.  This  lovely  flower  may  be  cultivated  in  a  deep, 
moist,  loamy  soil ;  in  any  other  it  dwindles  year  by  year. 
It  is  a  native  of  moist  woods  and  thickets,  and  is  not 
uncommon. 

According  to  Gray,  E.  bracteatum,  of  Boott  and  Bigelow, 
is  only  an  accidental  state  of  this  species.  The  flower  is 
larger,  and  the  scape  has  a  narrow  lanceolate  bract  about 
an  inch  long,  situated  about  an  inch  below  the  flower.  It 
also  differs  slightly  otherwise. 

E.  albidum,  the  white  Dog's-tooth  Violet,  is  not  found  in 
New  England.  The  leaves  are  spotted,  not  dotted  ;  flower 


408 


SPRING   FLOWERS. 


white.     Native  of  low  thickets  from  Albany,  New   York, 
to  Western  Pennsylvania,  to  Wisconsin,  and  southward. 

Thus  have  we  gathered  our  bouquet  of  Spring  Flowers. 
We  have  roamed  through  the  woods  and  fields,  and  culled 
their  treasures  without  exhausting  the  store.  Many  flowers 
have  we  neglected;  much  have  we  passed  by  unnoticed. 
We  lay  no  claim  to  completeness ;  it  requires  many  a 
ramble  to  learn  all  the  flowers  teach ;  but  if  we  have 
introduced  any  one  to  a  new  flower,  our  purpose  is 
answered. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 


New  Azaleas.  —  Notes  on  Cyclamen. — New  Pelargoniums.  —  Verbenas. — Helio- 
trope.—  New  Roses.  —  Pinks.  —  Fuchsias.  — Abutilon. —  Callas.  —  Cuphea. 
—  Chrysanthemums. 


I 


N  the  previous  chapters,  first  printed  in  1863,  we  have 
followed  the  course  of  horticulture  to  that  year.  Now 
in  1876,  twelve  years  since  our  first  edition  was  issued,  the 
progress  of  horticulture  demands  additional  chapters  to 
bring  our  subject  to  the  standard  of  knowledge  of  the 
present  day. 

Each  passing  year  has  given  us,  both  by  discovery  and 
hybridization,  many  new  plants,  and  although  in  floriculture 
novelty  is  by  no  means  a  criterion  of  superiority,  we  have 
yet  obtained  many  plants  which  are  decided  acquisitions. 

In  bedding  plants,  such  as  Verbenas  and  Pelargoniums 
in  bulbs,  in  roses,  each  year  some  old  varieties  are  lost 
to  cultivation,  and  their  places  are  taken  by  new  kinds, 
which  in  their  turn  often  give  place  to  others  of  yet  more 
recent  origin. 

Some   of   the  varieties   mentioned   in   former   pages,  it 


410  AZALEA   INDICA. 

would  be  difficult  now  to  find  in  any  florist's  catalogue ;  thus 
supplementary  lists  become  necessary. 

AZALEA  INDICA. 

In  this  popular  plant  there  has  been  great  improvement. 
Although  the  old  varieties  are  still  cultivated,  many  of  the 
new  seedlings,  especially  those  produced  by  continental  cul- 
tivators, are  superior  to  any  of  former  years. 

In  substance  of  flower,  brilliancy  of  color,  form,  and 
habit,  they  are  far  in  advance  of  old  varieties. 

The  double-flowered  kinds,  although  in  our  opinion  by 
no  means  as  beautiful  as  the  single,  from  the  durability  of 
the  flower  are  most  valuable.  . 

It  is  a  great  question,  upon  which  cultivators  differ  in 
opinion,  whether  the  most  effective  way  of  growing  azaleas 
is  by  the  natural  or  artificial  system. 

In  the  former,  the  plant  is  allowed  to  grow  as  it  will,  too 
luxuriant  shoots  only  being  pinched,  and  it  soon  forms  a 
spreading  plant,  which  every  year  covers  itself  with  flower. 
In  the  latter,  each  shoot  must  conform  to  a  required  style  of 
growth,  be  it  pyramidal,  flat,  or  round,  must  be  pinched  in 
or  tied  out,  until  the  plant  becomes  a  symmetrical  shape  of 
green,  hidden  when  in  bloom  by  the  mass  of  flower. 

To  us  the  natural  growth  is  far  more  pleasing,  although, 
perhaps,  more  brilliant  effects  are  produced  by  the  artificial. 


AZALEA  INDICA.  411 

The  catalogues  of  florists  contain  lists  of  hundreds  of 
azaleas,  all  of  which  are  beautiful.  There  is,  however, 
great  room  for  selection,  and  as  none  can  grow  all,  we  give 
a  list  of  a  few  which  cannot  fail  to  give  general  satisfac- 
tion. 

Flag  of  Truce.     Pure  double  white. 

Souvenir  de  Prince  Albert.  White  and  rose,  very  large 
double  flower,  —  a  late  blooming  variety. 

Sigismund  Rucker.  A  very  distinct  variety  with  large 
flowers,  rosy  lake  with  broad  margin  of  pure  white,  large 
blotch  of  crimson-maroon  on  upper  petals. 

Decora.  A  very  old  variety,  but  unsurpassed  for  fine, 
compact  habit  and  brilliant  flower. 

Mont  Blanc.  Pure  double  white  flowers  of  great  sub- 
stance. 

Mademoiselle  Leonee  Van  Houtte.  Rose  with  sulphur- 
yellow  blotch. 

Ghelsoni.     Orange-scarlet. 

Due  de  Nassau.     Rosy  carmine,  semi-double. 

Alice.     Double  rose,  vermilion  blotch. 

Baronne  de  Vrere.  Snow-white  flowers,  red  stripes, 
sulphur  blotch. 

Eulalie  Van  Geert.  Fine,  large,  variegated  flower. 
There  is  also  a  variety  with  variegated  foliage. 

Dominique  Vervaene.  Bright,  orange-red,  double  flow- 
ers. 


412  CYCLAMEN. 

Mrs.  William  Bull     Large,  white,  fine  form. 

Marquis  of  Lome.     Orange-scarlet,  saffron  spots. 

Roi  Leopold.     Salmon,  light  centre. 

Stella.     Orange-scarlet,  violet  spots. 

Hoi  d' Holland.     Rich  scarlet,  finely  spotted. 

CYCLAMEN. 

Cyclamen  may  be  easily  raised  from  seed,  and  thus  with- 
in the  last  few  years  many  choice  varieties  have  been  ob- 
tained. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  say  about  the 
first  of  July,  on  a  compost  of  rich  garden  loam  and  leaf 
mould,  with  a  little  sharp  sand.  Germination  takes  place 
in  about  six  weeks ;  if,  however,  the  seed  has  been  allowed 
to  dry,  this  period  is  considerably  increased. 

When  once  the  plants  have  shown  their  first  leaves,  they 
should  by  frequent  watering,  be  kept  in  a  growing  state  for 
about  eighteen  months  ;  that  is,  till  after  the  second  spring, 
at  which  period  they  would  naturally  rest.  Rest  the  bulbs 
then  out  of  doors  for  a  short  time,  and  then  pot  them  sepa- 
rately in  a  compost  of  rich  sandy  loam,  with  well-rotted 
cow  dung,  and  bits  of  charcoal.  They  will  bloom  freely 
that  autumn.  If,  however,  we  wish,  Cyclamen  may  be 
bloomed  in  one  year  from  seed,  by  keeping  the  bulbs  in 


NEW   PELARGONIUMS.  413 

active  growth,  and  giving  plenty  of  heat.  The  variety  of 
color  obtained  in  these  seedlings,  is  no  less  remarkable  than 
the  size  of  flower.  Figures  of  some  of  these  may  be 
found  in  "  Floral  Magazine,"  plates  339,  387,  442,  488. 

The  most  successful  raiser  of  Cyclamen  in  the  vicinity 
of  Boston,  is  James  O'Brien  of  Jamaica  Plain,  who  has 
exhibited  before  the  Massachusetts  Horticultural  Society, 
magnificent  plants,  remarkable  for  size,  color,  and  profusion 
of  bloom,  and  who  grows  this  plant  by  thousands  for  tlie 
market. 

NEW    PELARGONIUMS. 

Every  year  has  shown  progress  in  these  plants.  Many 
which  we  formerly  recommended  are  now  surpassed  by 
better  varieties. 

We  cannot  do  better  than  give  a  selection  from  the 
lists  appended  to  the  admirable  paper  upon  the  Pelargo- 
nium, read  before  the  Massachusetts  Horticultural  Society 
last  spring,  by  William  Gray,  Jr.,  to  which  paper,  embody- 
ing the  results  of  careful  experiment  and  close  observa- 
tion, we  would  call  the  attention  of  all  growers. 

Mr.  Gray  gives  long  lists,  from  which  we  select  a  few. 

GOLDEN  TRICOLORS. 

Achievement,    E.  P.   Benyon,    Howarth  Ashton,    Lady  . 
Cullum,  Lucy  Grieve,  Miss  Goring,  Mrs.  Little,  Macbeth. 


414  NEW   PELARGONIUMS. 


SILVER  TRICOLORS. 

Eva  Fish,  Excellent,  Lady  D.  Neville,  Mrs.  Laing,  Mrs. 
Glutton,  Lass  o'Gowrie,  Princess  Beatrice. 

BRONZES. 

Black  Douglas,  Earl  of  K-osslyn,  Chieftain,  Emperor  of 
Brazil,  Reine  Victoria,  Mrs.  John  Lee,  W.  E.  Gumbleton, 
Marechal  McMahon,  Mrs.  Harrison  Weir. 

ROUND-FLOWERING   SCARLETS. 

Beauty  of  Waltham,  Coleshill,  Lord  Derby,  Incompar- 
able, Diana,  Coeur  de  Lion,  Orbiculatum,  Omega,  Sir 
Charles  Napier,  Vesuvius,  Majestic. 

SCARLET,  SHADED  WITH  ROSE. 

Christian  Dugin,  JEstival,  E.  J.  Lowe,  Renown,  Crystal 
Palace  Gem. 

SCARLET,  SHADED  WITH  PURPLE. 

lanthe,  Peabody,  Shade  of  Evening,  Madame  Mezard, 
T.  Hammersley. 

SALMON-SCARLET. 
E.  S.  Dodwell,  King  of  Roses,  Paul  Brie. 


NEW   PELARGONIUMS.  415 

PINK. 

Master  Christine,  Mrs.  Keeler,  Rose  Rendatler. 

SALMON. 

Acme,  Albert  Grevy,  Gloire  de  Corbenay,  Mme.  Jean 
Sisley,  Polly  King,  President  Thiers. 

WHITE. 

Mme.  F.  Hoch,  Mrs.  Sach,  White  Clipper,  White  Prin- 
cess, White  Wonder. 

WHITE  WITH  ROSE  CENTRE. 

Alice  Spencer,  Madam  Werle,  The  Bride,  Remus,  Miss 
Gladstone,  Marguerite  Ponton. 

Of  Hybrid  Nosegays  the  best  Scarlets  are  Dr.  Muret, 
Emilio  Castelar,  Jessica,  Sunshine,  Wellington. 

ROSE. 

Caven  Fox,  Cherry  Lips,  Florence   Durand,  Lawrence 
Hey  wood,  Mrs.  Masters. 

PINK. 

Christine    Nilsson,    Delight,   Lady   Belper,    Pink   May 
Queen,  M.  E.  Buenzod,  Mrs.  F.  Burnaby. 


416  NEW   PELARGONIUMS. 

The  above  list  may  seem  long,  but  it  has  been  made 
from  experiment  with  many  hundred  varieties,  and  all 
recommended  are  worth  growing  for  house  culture. 

For  bedding,  however,  a  very  short  list  will  suffice. 

Mr.  Gray  writes :  "  Orbiculatum,  Sir  John  Moore, 
Coleshill,  Wellington,  Douglas  Pearson,  and  Sir  Charles 
Napier  are  the  best  among  the  Scarlets,  and  to  these 
must  be  added,  for  large  beds,  General  Grant. 

"  For  pinks  I  recommend  but  two,  Master  Christine  and 
Pink  May  Queen. 

"  There  are  no  white-flowering  varieties  fit  for  bedding, 
but  their  place  is  well  supplied  by  the  white-edged  Albion 
Cliffs. 

"In  the  golden-leaved  section,  Crystal  Palace  Gem  still 
holds  the  first  place. 

"  Of  bronzes,  the  Moor  is  the  best.  Harold,  the  Earl  of 
Kosslyn,  and  the  Marquis  of  Lome  are  next,  but  at  a 
long  interval. 

"  There  are  no  silver  tricolors  worth  growing  for  bedding. 
Of  the  golden  ones  Mrs.  Pollock  is  the  best." 


VERBENA.  417 

VERBENA. 

Each  year  produces  new  varieties  of  this  plant,  so  that  it 
is  impossible  to  give  a  list  of  varieties  which  will  prove  of 
permanent  value.  It  would  be  impossible  to  find  in  any 
collection  of  to-day  the  kinds  described  on  page  102  ;  yet 
at  the  time  that  list  was  first  printed,  now  about  twelve 
years  ago,  they  were  the  popular  varieties,  and  any  prom- 
inent florist  could  have  furnished  any  of  them  by  the  thou- 
sand. 

The  kinds  grown  to-day  are  probably  no  better  in  any 
respect.  So  many  good  verbenas  have  been  raised  that 
improvement  seems  almost  impossible. 

We  give  a  short  list  for  present  use. 

Amides  Gerard.     Dwarf  purple. 

Momtrosa.     Large  velvet-purple. 

White  Beauty.     Fine  white. 

Silver  Star.     Crimson  maroon. 

Splendor.     Vermilion,  crimson  eye. 

Virginale.     Large  pure  white. 

Surprise.     Rosy  pink,  yellow  eye. 

Austerlitz.     Red,  white  eye. 

Emily.     Fine  pink. 

Scarlet  Circle.     Bright  scarlet. 

Colossus.     Crimson,  violet  eye. 
27 


418  HELIOTROPE. 

Gigantic.     Crimson,  very  large. 
Zenobia.     Purple,  white  eye. 
Ultramarine.     Fine  blue. 
E.  G.  Henderson.     Fine  scarlet. 

HELIOTROPE. 

We  can  almost  say  of  this  plant  what  we  have  said  of 
the  Verbena ;  yet  though  many  new  varieties  have  been 
produced  the  old  have  not  been  entirely  superseded.  The 
following  is  a  list  of  choice  kinds:  — 

Jane  Messmer.     Light  blue,  very  sweet. 

Alexina.     Lilac  blush,  large  flowers. 

Garibaldi.     Nearly  white. 

General  Valubert.     Violet. 

Le  Pape.     Blue  and  lilac. 

Mina.     Deep  violet,  white  centre. 

Madame  Fillion.    Clear  violet,  passing  to  lavender. 

Jersey  Beauty.     The  best  blue  for  pot  culture. 

Etoile  de  Marseilles.  Deep  violet,  white  centre,  large 
truss,  the  best  dark  variety. 

Souvenir  de  Leopold  I.     Dark  blue,  white  eye. 

Beaute  des  Parterres.  Lilac,  almost  white  when  grown 
under  glass. 


ROSES.  419 

HOSES. 

Of  new  tender  Roses  the  name  is  legion,  and  all  are 
so  good  it  is  difficult  to  make  a  selection. 

When,  a  few  years  since  we  first  saw  Marechal  Niel,  we 
thought  no  mor.e  splendid  rose  could  be  raised,  and  yet, 
to-day,  both  Perle  de  Lyon  and  Belle  Lyonnaise  are  its 
superior. 

We  thought  no  finer  or  more  beautifully-colored  bud 
than  Bon  Silene  could  be  found,  and  yet  Duchess  of  Edin- 
burgh is  superior  in  both  these  respects. 

In  fact  it  is  hard  to  tell  what  not  to  grow.  We  give  a 
few  of  the  choicest  kinds,  not  all  new,  but  all  indispensable 
to  a  choice  collection. 

Marechal  Niel.  Deep  canary-yellow,  very  large,  a 
rampant  grower;  should  be  budded  on  some  strong  stock, 
as  thus  it  flowers  more  freely  than  on  its  own  roots. 

Bon  Silene.     Rich  pink  or  cherry. 

Bella.     Pure  white. 

Safrano.     Orange-yellow,  fine  bud. 

Duchess  of  Edinburgh.     Deep  crimson. 

Devoniensis  (climbing).     Creamy  white,  large. 

Isabella  Sprunt.     Light-yellow. 

Madame  Villermoz.    White,  salmon  centre,  large  and  full. 

Madame  Falcot,     Dark  apricot, 


420  ROSES. 

Madame  Margottin.     Deep  lemon,  rosy  peach  centre. 

Royal  Tea.     Pure  white,  very  fine. 

Belle  Lyonnaise.  Deep  canary-yellow,  changing  to  sal- 
mon. 

Perle  de  Lyon.     Deep  yellow. 

Niphetos.     Pure  white,  very  fine. 

Canari.     Bright  canary. 

Pauline  Lebonte.  Blush  pink,  —  a  lovely  rose  which 
will  give  more  bloom  than  any  we  know.  Fine  globular 
flower,  lasting  long  when  cut. 

Alba  rosa.     White,  rose  centre,  large  and  full. 

Archimede.  Rosy  fawn,  darker  centre, — a  large  flower 
of  good  substance. 

La  France.     Rosy  ;  the  most  fragrant  of  all. 

Souvenir  d'un  Ami.     Pink,  —  a  fine  old  rose. 

Adam.     Pink  ;  fine  long  bud. 

Souvenir  de  Malmaison.     Large,  flesh-color. 

Mrs.  Bosanquet.     Delicate  flesh-color. 

Madame  Ducher.    Fine  form  ;  clear  yellow. 

For  a  showy  bed  in  the  garden  Agrippina  is  the  best  rose ; 
it  is  not  hardy  in  New  England,  but  requires  frame  pro- 
tection in  winter. 

The  bright-colored  perpetual  roses,  such  as  General 
Jacqueminot,  are  much  used  for  forcing,  and  bring  high 
prices.  A  bouquet  of  this  rose  and  Lily  of  the  Valley,  is 
most  charming  in  mid-winter. 


PINKS.  421 

The  treatment  is  very  simple .  grow  the  plants  in  the 
border  as  strong  as  possible  till  the  middle  of  November  • 
pot  them  and  keep  them  very  cool  in  a  cold  frame  or 
shed,  —  a  little  freezing  does  no  harm.  About  six  weeks 
before  they  are  wanted,  bring  them  into  a  cool  house,  let- 
ting them  there  remain  till  the  shoots  are  an  inch  long, 
then  remove  them  to  the  rose-house  and  force  them  with 
plenty  of  water,  light,  and  heat. 

The  Cherokee  Rose  (ft.  Icevigatd)  is  a  charming  plant 
for  a  cool  house;  the  flowers  are  single,  very  large,  pure 
white. 

PINKS. 

In  forcing  pinks  we  have  some  very  fine  varieties,  the 
best  for  winter  blooming  are :  — 

La  Purite,  bright  cherry,  very  free  flowering. 

La  Belle.     Pure  white,  very  fragrant. 

President  Degraw.     White,  tinged  with  blush. 

Louise  Lenoir.     Dark  crimson. 

Unique.     Pure  white. 

Astoria.     Yellow,  marked  with  red. 


422  FUCHSIAS. 

FUCHSIAS. 

To  the  list  already  given  we  add  :  — 

Wave  of  Life.  Scarlet  sepals,  violet-blue  corolla,  gold- 
tinted  foliage. 

Elm  City.     Crimson-scarlet,  double. 

Conspicua.     Crimson  sepals,  white  corolla. 

Tower  of  London.  Carmine-scarlet,  sepals  recurved, 
large  violet-blue  corolla. 

Meteor.     Fine  bronze  foliage. 

White  Eagle.     White  corolla,  scarlet  sepals. 

Avalanche  (Smith's).  Double  blush,  sepals  carmine-scar- 
let. 

Arabella,  or  Mrs.  Marshall.  Pure  white  tube  and 
sepals,  rich  rose  corolla. 

Balaclava.     Carmine-scarlet  sepals,  violet  corolla. 

Emperor  of  Brazil.  Reddish-crimson  sepals,  double  vio- 
let-purple corolla. 

George  Peabody.     Double  white  corolla,  very  fine. 

M.  Lauth.     Long  carmine  sepals,  plum-colored  corolla. 

Sir  Garnet  Wolseley.  Flame-colored  sepals,  deep  violet- 
purple,  corolla  double. 

Sun-ray.     Fine  foliage,  crimson,  white,  and  green. 


ABUTILON.  —  CALLA.  423 

ABUTILON. 

Several  new  Abutilons  have  proved  very  valuable,  of 
these  the  best  is  :  — 

Boule  de  Neige,  a  dwarf,  free  flowering*  variety,  with 
pure  white  blossoms. 

A.  Pattersonii,  or  Santana,  has  large  blossoms  resem- 
bling the  old  A.  Bedfordianum,  but  is  a  comparatively 
dwarf  grower,  and  very  free  flowering. 

A.  vexillarium,  or  megapotamicum,  has  showy  red  and 
bright  yellow  flowers,  which  contrast  well  with  the  black 
anthers. 

The  variegated  form  has  very  showy  foliage,  and  is  one 
of  the  best  plants  we  have  for  summer  carpet-bedding. 

A.  Verschaffeltii  has  pale  yellow  flowers,  and  is  a  very 
handsome  and  desirable  plant. 


CALLA. 

A  new  dwarf  Calla  (Richardia  cethiopica  nana)  has 
proved  worthy  of  cultivation  from  its  flowering  freely  and 
occupying  but  little  space.  For  house  culture  it  is  well 
adapted,  requiring  the  same  treatment  as  the  species. 

The  Spotted-leaved  Calla  (J?.  maculata)  has  a  hastate 
leaf  spotted  with  white  ;  the  flower  is  green  and  not 


424  CUPHEA.  —  CHRYSANTHEMUM. 

showy.    This  plant  must  be  allowed  to  dry  off  after  growth. 
Except  for  variety  in  a  collection  it  is  not  desirable. 

CUPHEA. 

O.  hyssopifolia  is  a  very  valuable  plant  for  parlor  culture. 
It  is  of  dwarf  habit,  fine  dark  green  foliage,  and  is  always 
covered  with  delicate  pink  flowers. 

It  requires  to  be  potted  in  good  loam,  and  to  have  plenty 
of  light,  and  not  to  be  kept  very  hot ;  thus  treated  it  will 
never  be  out  of  bloom. 


CHRYSANTHEMUM. 

Every  year  gives  new  varieties  which  supplant  those 
previously  grown.  It  is  no  easy  task  to  make  selections. 

O.  laciniatum  is  valuable  for  cut  flowers,  as  it  blooms 
very  late.  The  Japanese  species  is  not  generally  popular, 
the  large  ragged  flowers  being  more  curious  than  beau- 
tiful. 

For  general  show  the  large-flowered  kinds  are  the  best, 
but  the  pompones  are  by  far  the  prettiest  flowers. 

Some  of  the  best  large-flowered  are  Bijou,  rose-purple  ; 
Countess  of  Derby,  rose  ;  George  Peabody,  white  ;  Hero  of 
Stoke  Newington,  rosy  blush  ;  Prince.  Alfred,  rose-crimson ; 


CHRYSANTHEMUM.  425 

Prince  of  Anemones,  blush ;    Mrs.  Forsyth,  white ;  Baron 
Buest,  red  and  yellow. 

Of  Pompoms  :  Bob,  rich  crimson  ;  Ernest  Senary*  white 
and  rose  ;  Marc  Aurele,  purple  crimson;  Reine  des  Anemo- 
nes, white ;  Lilac  Gem,  lilac  ;  Danton,  rose-lilac ;  Fabeola, 
lilac ;  Golden  Anemone,  yellow ;  Precocite,  yellow ;  Rose 
d'amour,  clear  rose. 


CHAPTER    XXVIII. 

New  Hyacinths.  — Gladiolus.  — Forcing  Lily  of  the  Valley.  — New  Cannas.  — 
Lantanas.  —  Hardy  Calceolarias.  —  Orchids  for  the  Parlor.  —  Ferns  for  the 
Parlor. 

THE  HYACINTH. 

"VTEW  varieties  are  yearly  sent  out  by  Dutch  cultivators. 
To  the  lists  already  given  we  may  add,  — 

DOUBLE   RED. 

Koh-i-Noor.     Bright  salmon-pink.    - 
Shakespeare.     Large  rose. 

DOUBLE  WHITE. 
Madame  de  Stael,  Prince  of  Waterloo. 

DOUBLE  YELLOW. 
Croesus,  La  Grandeur. 

DOUBLE  BLUE. 
Comte  de  St.  Priest,  Sir  Colin  Campbell. 


HYACINTH.  —  GLADIOLUS.  427 

SINGLE   RED. 

Etna.     Very  fine  large  truss  and  flower. 
Von  Schiller.     Very  deep  red. 
Prince  Albert  Victor.     Rich  dark-crimson. 
Princess  Helena.     Rosy  pink. 

SINGLE  WHITE. 

La  Grandesse,  Snowball,  Alba  maxima,  L'Innocence, 
Leviathan,  Lord  Shaftesbury. 

SINGLE  BLUE. 
Blondin,  Feruch  Khan,  King  of  Blues,  Lothair. 

SINGLE  YELLOW. 
Bird  of  Paradise,  Liberia,  Anna  Carolina. 

GLADIOLUS. 

The  experience  of  the  last  few  years  has  shown  that  in 
the  production  of  seedling  Gladiolus  we  are  by  no  means 
excelled  by  English  and  French  growers.  We  may  import 
high-priced  kinds,  but  from  a  collection  of  American  seed- 
~ngs  we  can  often  select. superior  flowers. 

There   is,   however,    a   difficulty    in   bringing  to    public 


428  LILY   OF   THE    VALLEY. 

notice  any  new  plant  in  this  country.  We  have  no  large 
growers  who  are  in  a  position  to  take  such  a  plant,  prop- 
agate it,  and  send  it  into  the  market,  and  many  good  seed- 
lings are  lost  to  cultivation. 

To  the  general  grower  we  say,  buy,  for  general  display, 
the  old  varieties,  of  which  we  have  already  given  lists,  or 
order  from  some  dealer  a  few  hundred  unnamed  seedlings, 
in  which  there  will  not  fail  to  be  many  good  flowers. 

Of  new  French  varieties  the  best  are,  — 

De  Michel.     Rose  veined  with  lilac,  throat  dark  carmine. 

Le  Vesuve.     Fiery  red,  very  large  flower. 

Murillo.  Cherry  red,  all  petals  lined  with  white,  with 
large  white  spot  on  lower  petals. 

Psyche.     Light  satin-rose,  lower  petals  darker  rose. 

Sirene.     Salmon-rose. 

In  England  the  prize  varieties  the  last  summer  were 
Mons.  Legouve,  Ondine,  Hercules,  Orpheus,  Pactole, 
Psyche,  Warrior,  Adolphe  Brogniart,  Sylvia,  John  Wa- 
terer,  Seda,  Madame  Despertes,  Almathea,  Felix,  Shake- 
speare, Xerxes,  Meyerbeer,  Triumphans,  Talisman. 

FOKCING  LILY  OF  THE  VALLEY. 

Within  the  last  few  years  Lilies  of  the  Valley  have  been 
very  profitably  forced  by  florists,  the  stalks  bringing  ten 


LILY    OF  THE    VALLEY.  429 

cents  each.  The  clumps  of  roots,  or  the  single  erowna 
are  usually  imported,  these  giving  better  bloom  than 
home-grown  stock. 

Single  crowns  are  preferable  to  clumps,  as  they  produce 
more  flower,  and  bloom  equally  all  over  the  pot. 

The  crowns  should  be  potted  firmly  in  any  soil  (for  they 
will  not  make  much  root),  the  roots  being  cut  off  to  within 
two  inches  of  the  crown,  at  equal  distances,  in  pots,  pans, 
or  boxes.  Keep  the  crown  above  the  soil,  as  otherwise  the 
plants  come  up  irregularly,  and  an  even  surface  of  bloom  is 
to  be  desired. 

Place  the  pots  in  a  cold-frame,  and  give  moderate  water- 
ing. It  is  a  good  plan  to  cover  the  crowns  with  a  layer  of 
sphagnum  moss,  as  thus  they  swell  evenly,  and  to  keep 
them  covered  until  they  begin  to  develop. 

Bring  them  gradually  into  heat,  and  plunge  them  in  bot- 
tom-heat in  a  close  frame,  say  from  80°  to  90°.  They  will 
stand  any  amount  of  bottom-heat,  and  may  be  forced  into 
bloom  in  three  weeks,  but  if  forced  too  rapidly  there  will 
be  all  bloom  and  no  foliage.  This  is  desirable  for  cutting, 
but  for  beauty  both  flower  and  foliage  should  be  produced 
together,  and  to  do  this  the  plants  must  be  forced  gradu- 
ally. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  let  the  pots  be  exposed  to  frost  be- 
fore beginning  the  forcing,  as  thus  the  flower  is  much  finer. 


430  CALCEOLARIAS.  —  LANTANA. 

This  plant  may  be  forced  by  placing  the  pots  on  the  shelf 
over  a  kitchen  range,  or  on  the  hot  pipes  of  a  green-house. 
The  leaves  and  flowers  will  lack  color  if  kept  from  the 
light,  but  a  few  days  exposure  will  remedy  this  want. 

BEDDING  CALCEOLARIAS. 

These  plants  are  not  favorites,  as  they  fail  to  give  con- 
tinuous bloom. 

There  has,  however,  been  an  improvement,  and  some 
of  the  varieties  are  desirable,  as  in  color  they  have  no 
rivals,  — 

Crimson  Queen.  A  free  grower,  with  scarlet-tinted 
bronze-crimson  flowers. 

Pillar  of  Gold.     Rich  golden-yellow. 

Sparkler.     Yellow  and  maroon. 

Aurea  floribunda.     Clear  yellow.   • 

Crown  Prince.     Golden-yellow,  large  truss. 

Amplexicaule.     Lemon-yellow. 

William  Lucas.     Vermilion-crimson. 

THE  LANTANA. 

An  improvement  has  been  made  in  these  plants  by  the 
introduction  of  some  dwarf  varieties  of  continental  origin. 


NEW   CANNAS,  431 

The  best  of  these  is  a  light  yellow  flower,  named  Boule 
d'Or,  which  either  as  a  pot-plant  or  hi  the  garden,  is  a 
mass  of  bloom,  and  is  well  worth  general  cultivation. 

NEW  CANNAS. 

If  the  production  of  new  varieties  means  progress,  more 
has  been  accomplished  with  this  plant  the  past  few  years 
than  with  'any  other. 

We  have  before  us  the  Catalogue  of  Messrs.  Huber,  of 
Hyeres,  France,  in  which  one  hundred  and  fifty  varieties 
are  described. 

The  greatest  improvement  has  been  in  the  size  and  shape 
of  the  flower. 

Cannas  were  formerly  foliage  plants,  now  they  are 
among  the  most  brilliant  flowering  plants  of  the  garden. 

In  addition  to  the  list  we  have  given,  the  following  vari- 
eties are  very  fine  :  — 

Adele  Levallois.  Very  dwarf.  Seldom  growing  more 
than  two  feet  high  ;  thick  dark-green  foliage,  large  daz- 
zling crimson  flowers. 

Premice  de  Nice.  Foliage  glaucous-green,  flowers  cana- 
ry-yellow. 

~  Senateur  Ghevreau.  Bright  green  foliage,  salmon-scarlet 
flowers. 


432  CANNAS.  —  ORCHIDS  FOR  THE  PARLOR. 

Auguste  Ferrier.  Large  green  leaves  shaded  with  ma- 
roon; the  tallest  variety,  often  growing  nine  feet  high. 
A  very  late  bloomer,  seldom  flowering  in  New  England ; 
flowers  red. 

Iridiflora  hybrida.  Rich  orange-scarlet  flowers  shaded 
with  crimson. 

The  newest  varieties,  which,  however,  have  not  been  yet 
proved  in  this  country,  are,  — 

Helvetia.     Yellow,  white,  and  carmine. 

Auguste  Buchner.     Bright  orange. 

Oapucine.     Brilliant  red. 

Vulcain.     Bright  red. 

Dr.  Livingston.     Orange- carmine. 

Gloire  de  Provence.     Pale  yellow,  tipped  with  carmine. 

Victoria.     Saffron- yellow  and  carmine. 

Souvenir  de  Barillet  Deschamps.     Vivid  red. 

Alegatiere.     Bi^lliant  orange. 

Bonneti  excelsa.     Purple-red. 

ORCHIDS  FOR  THE  PARLOR. 

Some  few  of  the  "  cool  orchids "  will  grow  and  bloom 
well  in  the  parlor. 

They  should  be  potted  in  rough  peat  and  sphagnum  moss, 
with  lumps  of  charcoal  or  broken  potsherds,  to  keep  the 


FERNS   FOR   THE   PARLOR.  433 

soil  open,  and  secure  good  drainage ;  given  full  light,  and 
be  kept  warm,  and  in  not  a  very  dry  atmosphere. 

Those  that  we  have  found  to  succeed  best  are,  — 

Cypripedium  insigne  and  O.  venustum.  Two  East  In- 
dian species  of  Lady's  Slipper,  which  grow  freely  and 
bloom  profusely,  the  flowers  remaining  long  in  perfection. 

Lycaste  Skinneri.  A  choice  and  showy  plant,  with  large 
white  and  purple  flowers. 

Odontoglossum  grande.  The  largest  flowered  of  the 
Odontoglots,  which  grows  and  blooms  freely  at  a  low  tem- 
perature. Flowers  rich  yellow,  veined  with  chocolate- 
brown. 

In  the  volume  on  "  Window  Gardening,"  we  have  given 
full  directions  for  the  culture  of  these  showy  flowers. 

FERNS   FOR  THE  PARLOR. 

Some  ferns  succeed  well  in  the  parlor,  if  the  room  is 
light  and  airy. 

They  should  be  potted  in  a  compost  of  peat,  loam,  and 
sand,  with  good  drainage.  Over-watering  must  be  avoided, 
and  full  exposure  to  sunshine.  If  there  is  plenty  of  light, 
they  grow  well  on  a  centre-table.  The  best  species  for 
parlor  culture  are,  — 

Adiantum  cuneatum.  A  lovely  species  of  maiden-hair, 
28 


484  FERNS   FOR   THE   PARLOR. 

from  Brazil ;  the  fronds  are  graceful,  and  attain  a  large 
size. 

A.  affine.     A  New  Zealand  species,  delicate  and  pretty. 

Davillia  canariensis.  A  graceful  and  pretty  fern,  of 
easy  culture. 

Pteris  tremula.  A  large-growing  species,  which  when 
once  established,  soon  makes  a  fine  plant.  It  is  one  of  the 
hardiest  and  best. 

P.  cretica  albo  lineata.  A  pretty  variegated  fern  ;  fronds 
light  green,  with  clear  white  centre  and  midrib. 

Nephrolepis  exaltata  and  pectinata,  are  showy  ferns,  with 
long,  narrow  fronds  ;  they  grow  freely,  and  are  very  or- 
namental. 

Polypodium  vulgare  is  a  well-known  native  fern,  very 
common  in  shady,  rocky  places.  Transplanted  to  the  par- 
lor, it  thrives  well,  and  is  quite  as  ornamental  as  many  of 
the  rare  exotic  ferns. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 


New  Hardy  Shrubs.  —  Amygdalopsis.  —  Hydrangea.  —  Exochorda.  —  New  Lilacs. 
—  Khodotypus.  —  Rapheolepis.  —Magnolia.  —  Spirea.  —  New  Hardy  Roses.  — 
Ampelopsis.  —  Lonicera.  —  Clematis. 


introduction  of  a  new  hardy  shrub  is  of  more  ben- 
efit than  the  discovery  of  a  host  of  new  greenhouse 
plants. 

The  one  can  be  grown  by  the  people  and  all  can  enjoy  it, 
the  others  must  ever  remain  the  pleasure  of  a  few. 

It  is,  therefore,  a  pleasant  duty  to  describe  some  new 
shrubs  which  are  real  acquisitions,  and  adapted  to  general 
cultivation. 

AMYGDALOPSIS. 

This  charming  plant  (A.  Lindleyana),  more  commonly 
known  as  Prunus  triloba,  is  a  dwarf-growing  plant,  which 
in  early  spring  is  a  mass  of  large,  bright,  pink,  rosette-like 
flowers  ;  native  of  China.  It  has  proved  perfectly  hardy, 
and  should  be  in  every  garden. 


436  HYDRANGEA.  —  EXOCHORDA. 

The  flowers  resemble  those  of  the  double  flowering  al- 
mond, but  are  fuller  and  brighter,  and  three  times  larger. 

The  foliage  is  ornamental,  and  in  autumn  the  round, 
hard,  plum-like  fruit  is  very  showy. 

HYDRANGEA. 

A  very  showy  summer-blooming  shrub,  known  as  H. 
paniculata  grandiflora  or  deutzifolia,  is  coming  into  general 
cultivation. 

The  flowers  are  white,  in  immense  corymbs,  and  remain 
weeks  in  full  beauty,  turning  deep  rose  before  they  fade. 

To  produce  large  trusses,  the  soil  should  be  rich  and  the 
plant  should  be  pruned  in  spring,  the  weak  growth  being 
cut  out.  As  this  shrub  blooms  at  a  season  when  the  shrub- 
bery is  generally  barren  of  flowers,  it  is  especially  de- 
sirable. 

It  has  been  generally  propagated,  and  is  now  very  cheap. 

EXOCHOKDA. 

This  plant  (E.  grandiflora),  known  also  as  Spirea  grand- 
iflora,  although  for  years  grown  in  England  as  a  green- 
house plant,  is  perfectly  hardy.  We  have  plants  eight  feet 
high,  which  stood  the  severe  winter  of  1872  without  even 
the  tips  of  the  shoots  being  killed. 


LILACS.  —  RHODOTYPUS.  437 

The  foliage  is  glaucous-green,  the  flowers  an  inch  in 
diameter,  white,  with  green  centre,  in  long  spikes,  com- 
pletely covering  the  plant  in  early  June. 

The  only  successful  mode  of  propagation  is  by  root  cut- 
tings in  bottom  heat. 

It  is  not  a  common  shrub,  but  is  most  desirable,  and  one 
of  the  handsomest  we  grow. 

LILACS. 

The  last  few  years  have  been  prolific  of  new  lilacs,  which 
are  far  superior  to  the  old  varieties,  in  size  both  of  flower 
and  truss,  and  in  rich  coloring  of  flower. 

Dr.  Lindley  is  a  magnificent  variety,  of  strong  growth, 
with  very  large  rich  purple  flowers. 

The  following  are  very  fine :  Charles  X.,  Blanc  virginal, 
Goliah,  Ville  de  Troyes,  Dr.  Noble,  Ambroise  Verschaffelt, 
Gloire  de  Moulin  s,  Nigricans,  Lavanensis. 

A  mass  of  these  gives  charming  variety  of  color. 

RHODOTYPUS. 

R.  kerrioides.  Is  a  pretty  shrub,  resembling  in  foliage 
the  well-known  Cochorus  {Kerria  japonica),  but  with  large 
white  flowers. 


438  EAPHIOLEPIS.  —  MAGNOLIA.  —  SPIKEA. 

It  is  a  dense-growing  plant,  preserving  its  foliage  in  good 
condition  to  late  autumn,  and  in  winter  is  covered  with 
clusters  of  shining,  hard,  bfeck  seeds. 

It  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  well  worth  growing. 

RAPHIOLEPIS. 

R.  ovata  is  a  low-growing  shrub*  with  leathery  dark 
green  foliage  and  spikes  of  showy  white  flowers,  which  are 
succeeded  by  black  berries.  It  is  not  hardy  in  New  Eng- 
land, but  will  probably  prove  so  south  of  Philadelphia. 

MAGNOLIA. 

The  newest  Magnolia  is  M.  Lenne,  —  a  beautiful  variety, 
with  very  large,  deep  purplish-red  flowers. 

It  has  proved  perfectly  hardy  with  us  at  Glen  Ridge,  and 
should  find  a  place  in  every  collection. 

The  flowers  are  produced  before  the  leaves  in  early 
spring,  about  a  week  later  than  those  of  M.  Soulongiana. 

SPIKEA. 

Although  there  is  nothing  new  in  shrubby  spireas  we 
desire  to  call  attention  to  S.  Thunbergi  as  the  earliest 


HARDY   KOSES.  439 

blooming  species ;  very  free  in  growth  and  profuse  in 
bloom. 

About  the  middle  of  May  it  is  a  mass  of  white  flowers, 
and  is  a  very  showy  plant. 

Although  not  very  common,  it  cannot  fail  to  be  gen- 
erally cultivated  when  its  merits  are  known. 

HAKDY  EOSES. 

To  give  a  list  of  these  would  be  to  copy  the  florists' 
catalogues.  English,  French,  and  Continental  growers 
every  year  send  out  so  many  new  varieties,  many  of  great 
merit,  that  it  is  difficult  to  make  a  selection,  and  to  at- 
tempt a  description  would  exceed  the  limits  of  our  volume. 

The  following  is  a  select  list :  — 

Gomtesse  d'  Oxford.  Bright  shaded  carmine,  large,  full 
fine  form. 

General  Jacqueminot.  An  old  rose,  but  unsurpassed  in 
color,  brilliant  velvety-red. 

Abbe  Garaudier.     Fine  rose,  large  and  full. 

Paul  Neron.     Deep  rose,  immense  flower. 

Baronne  de  Rothschild.     Bright  rose,  very  large. 

Dr.  Andry.     Rich  crimson-shaded  carmine. 

Auguste  Mie.     Light  pink,  —  a  good  old  rose. 

Madame  Vidot.     Delicate  pink,  cupped,  very  double. 


440  AMPELOPSIS. 

Due  de  Gazes.     Deep  crimson-scarlet. 

Caroline  de  Sansal.     Flesh  color  and  blush,  large. 

Madame  Lacharme.  White  suffused  with  pink,  changing 
to  pure  white. 

Paul  Verdier.     Bright  rose,  imbricated,  very  double. 

Heine  des  Blanches.     Fine  rosy  white,  very  large. 

Boule  de  Neige.     Pure  white,  fine  cup,  double. 

Edouard  Morren.     Bright  carmine. 

Oriflamme  de  St.  Louis.     Brilliant  scarlet. 

Prince  Camille  de  Rohan.     Dark  velvety-crimson. 

Prince  Leon.     Vivid  crimson,  large. 

Alfred  Colomb.     Bright  rich  carmine. 

La  France.     Deep  pink,  very  fragrant. 

Charles  Rouillard.     Lilac  rose,  very  large. 

John  Hopper.     Brilliant  rose,  crimson  centre. 

Princess  Mary  of  Cambridge.  Silvery  pink,  large  and 
full. 

AMPELOPSIS. 

A  very  valuable  introduction  is  the  new  Japanese  wood- 
bine, Ampelopsis  Veitchii,  or  tricuspidata. 

It  is  a  perfectly  hardy  climber,  with  small  neat  foliage 
when  young,  and  shoots  which  cling  close  to  either  wood, 
stone,  or  brick. 

It  is  admirably  adapted  for  covering  walls,  and  will  take 


LONICERA.— CLEMATIS.  441 

the  place  of  ivy  which,  unfortunately  for  us  in  New  Eng- 
land, is  not  hardy.  The  foliage  turns  a  rich  dark  purple  in 
the  autumn. 

It  is  a  rapid  grower,  is  not  attacked  by  insects,  and  is 
altogether  the  best  hardy  foliage  climber. 

LONICEBA. 

L.  brachypoda  aureo  reticulata  is  a  beautiful  small  leafed 
species  of  honeysuckle,  with  leaves  beautifully  reticulated 
with  golden  veins. 

At  a  distance  it  appears  a  mass  of  yellow,  and  is  invalu- 
able for  growing  with  dark  foliage  vines. 

Although  generally  hardy  this  plant  is  sometimes  winter- 
killed, and  therefore  should  have  a  sheltered  situation  and 
be  slightly  protected  in  winter. 

THE  CLEMATIS. 

When  the  first  edition  of  this  book  was  issued,  there 
were  comparatively  few  Clematis  in  cultivation. 

The  last  three  years  have  greatly  added  to  the  number, 
until  now  it  is  difficult  to  make  a  selection  where  all  are  so 
beautiful. 

The  general  treatment  has  been  given  in  the  previous 
pages. 


442  CLEMATIS. 

These  hybrid  Clematis  divide  themselves  into  several 
classes,  and  in  classification  we  follow  that  of  English  cul- 
tivators, giving  a  list  of  the  best  of  each. 

FLORIDA  TYPE. 

Fortunii.     Double  white. 

John  Gould  Veitch.  Double  mauve.  Floral  Magazine, 
page  394. 

Lucie  Lemoine.  Double  white.  Floral  Magazine,  page 
102. 

These  like  the  species  are  precariously  hardy ;  they  are 
summer  bloomers,  and  produce  the  flowers  from  the  old 

wood. 

JACKMANNI  TYPE. 

In  addition  to  those  previously  mentioned,  we  can  recom- 
mend :  — 

Star  of  India.     Reddish-purple,  with  red  markings. 

Magnifica.  Reddish-purple.  Floral  Magazine,  page 
453. 

Prince  of  Wales.     Deep  purple. 

Velutina  purpurea.     Mulberry  purple. 

These  are  free  bloomers,  and  flower  on  the  new  wood, 
and  are  hardy. 


CLEMATIS.  443 

LANUGINOSA  TYPE. 

Gem.     Deep  lavender  blue. 

Henreyi.     Creamy  white. 

Madame  Van  Houtte.     Large  white. 

Aureliani.     Light  blue. 

Lawsoniana.     Rosy  purple. 

Regince.     Light  blue. 
William  Kennett.     Deep  lavender. 

In  this  class  are  found  the  finest  and  largest  flowered 
Clematis ;  they  are  summer  and  autumn  bloomers,  flower 
from  the  new  wood.  Should  be  moderately  pruned  in 
spring.  They  are  not  hardy  in  New  England. 

PATENS  TYPE. 

Albert  Victor.     Deep  lavender. 

Fair  Rosamond.  Blush-white,  red  markings.  Figured 
in  Florist,  1874,  page  169. 

Miss  Bateman.     White.     Floral  Magazine,  pp.  495-96. 

Standishii.     Mauve. 

"  Stella.     Deep  mauve.      Figured  in   Florist,  1874,  page 
169. 

The  Queen.     Light  mauve. 

Mrs.  S.  O.  Baker.     French  gray,  claret  bar. 
*    Lord  Londesborough.     Deep  mauve. 


444  CLEMATIS. 

Lady  Londesborough.  Gray.  Floral  Magazine,  pp. 
495-96. 

These  produce  flowers  in  early  spring,  on  the  ripened 
wood.  With  slight  winter  protection,  they  will  prove 

hardy. 

VITICELLA  TYPE. 

Hendersoni.     Bluish  purple. 

Lady  Bovell.  Grayish  blue.  Floral  Magazine,  page 
370. 

Thomas  Moore.     Violet. 

Mrs.  James  Bateman.     Lavender. 

These  are  summer  and  autumn  bloomers,  and  are  hardy 
if  lightly  covered  in  winter. 


UNIVERSITY 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 

This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 

Fine  schedule:  25  cents  on  first  day  overdue 

50  cents  on  fourth  day  overdue 
One  dollar  on  seventh  day  overdue. 


MAY 


3  1991 

3  2  71991 


LD  21-100m-12,'46(A2012sl6)4120 


8803 


